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soldering aluiminium boxes ????? how
HI THERE
Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. ,Never mind the old resin trick etc .. I wanted to proper solder them , with an iron ..yer I have used different irons , and temperatures various fluxes , and methods and nothing has ever been successful I know all about oxidiodsation , so I thought could I solder it in a vacuum ??? or oxygen free environment ?? say I get myself a large plastic box , air-tight joints and Perspex top , with an air-tight fitting door and a pair of fitted gloves , and a one way air valve connected to the hoover , to withdraw some of the air out of the box ???? , maybe even light a candle in the box to burn up the last bit of the oxygen ?? the box would be large-enough for me to have all the tools I need , small scrapers , iron , solder , flux , and the box iam soldering , etc any thoughts ???? I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints by using rubber gaskets and expandable foam and glue between the joints etc ... I don't really want to hear about the construction method down-falls in your replies , more about the theory of soldering aluminium in a vacuum situation or lack of oxygen environment sorry to be blunt , but as so often happens in news articles the main question or topic is often lost by the 3 or 4th reply then it goes of a tangent to the main question . anyway hope some one may be able to help , or has had experience of actually doing what iam trying to do cheers for now de Paul |
Try this...
Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... Next get a good iron with enough wattage to tin the area under the oil with solder.. Then tin another piece and you can solder the 2 together... A beter way perhaps would be if someone has a name that I can't recall but there's a compnay that makes a good Al solder that doesn't need a special flux.. I've seen guys demonstrating it at hamfests and fairs.. They generally show soldering aluminum beverage cans, Al pistons, lawn chair parts, etc. I bought some and their special stainless brush and used it successfully.. But that was a few years ago and I have no idea where I put the stuff.. I'll bet someone here has the url. FYI.. If you were in cosmic space and cleaned the oxide off 2 pieces of aluminum they would stick without heat, solder or flux! 73 hank wd5jfr "uk-hamman" wrote in message ... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. ,Never mind the old resin trick etc .. I wanted to proper solder them , with an iron ..yer I have used different irons , and temperatures various fluxes , and methods and nothing has ever been successful I know all about oxidiodsation , so I thought could I solder it in a vacuum ??? or oxygen free environment ?? say I get myself a large plastic box , air-tight joints and Perspex top , with an air-tight fitting door and a pair of fitted gloves , and a one way air valve connected to the hoover , to withdraw some of the air out of the box ???? , maybe even light a candle in the box to burn up the last bit of the oxygen ?? the box would be large-enough for me to have all the tools I need , small scrapers , iron , solder , flux , and the box iam soldering , etc any thoughts ???? I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints by using rubber gaskets and expandable foam and glue between the joints etc ... I don't really want to hear about the construction method down-falls in your replies , more about the theory of soldering aluminium in a vacuum situation or lack of oxygen environment sorry to be blunt , but as so often happens in news articles the main question or topic is often lost by the 3 or 4th reply then it goes of a tangent to the main question . anyway hope some one may be able to help , or has had experience of actually doing what iam trying to do cheers for now de Paul |
Try this...
Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... Next get a good iron with enough wattage to tin the area under the oil with solder.. Then tin another piece and you can solder the 2 together... A beter way perhaps would be if someone has a name that I can't recall but there's a compnay that makes a good Al solder that doesn't need a special flux.. I've seen guys demonstrating it at hamfests and fairs.. They generally show soldering aluminum beverage cans, Al pistons, lawn chair parts, etc. I bought some and their special stainless brush and used it successfully.. But that was a few years ago and I have no idea where I put the stuff.. I'll bet someone here has the url. FYI.. If you were in cosmic space and cleaned the oxide off 2 pieces of aluminum they would stick without heat, solder or flux! 73 hank wd5jfr "uk-hamman" wrote in message ... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. ,Never mind the old resin trick etc .. I wanted to proper solder them , with an iron ..yer I have used different irons , and temperatures various fluxes , and methods and nothing has ever been successful I know all about oxidiodsation , so I thought could I solder it in a vacuum ??? or oxygen free environment ?? say I get myself a large plastic box , air-tight joints and Perspex top , with an air-tight fitting door and a pair of fitted gloves , and a one way air valve connected to the hoover , to withdraw some of the air out of the box ???? , maybe even light a candle in the box to burn up the last bit of the oxygen ?? the box would be large-enough for me to have all the tools I need , small scrapers , iron , solder , flux , and the box iam soldering , etc any thoughts ???? I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints by using rubber gaskets and expandable foam and glue between the joints etc ... I don't really want to hear about the construction method down-falls in your replies , more about the theory of soldering aluminium in a vacuum situation or lack of oxygen environment sorry to be blunt , but as so often happens in news articles the main question or topic is often lost by the 3 or 4th reply then it goes of a tangent to the main question . anyway hope some one may be able to help , or has had experience of actually doing what iam trying to do cheers for now de Paul |
Henry Kolesnik wrote:
Try this... Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... Next get a good iron with enough wattage to tin the area under the oil with solder.. Then tin another piece and you can solder the 2 together... A beter way perhaps would be if someone has a name that I can't recall but there's a compnay that makes a good Al solder that doesn't need a special flux.. I've seen guys demonstrating it at hamfests and fairs.. They generally show soldering aluminum beverage cans, Al pistons, lawn chair parts, etc. I bought some and their special stainless brush and used it successfully.. But that was a few years ago and I have no idea where I put the stuff.. I'll bet someone here has the url. FYI.. If you were in cosmic space and cleaned the oxide off 2 pieces of aluminum they would stick without heat, solder or flux! 73 hank wd5jfr "uk-hamman" wrote in message ... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. ,Never mind the old resin trick etc .. I wanted to proper solder them , with an iron ..yer I have used different irons , and temperatures various fluxes , and methods and nothing has ever been successful I know all about oxidiodsation , so I thought could I solder it in a vacuum ??? or oxygen free environment ?? say I get myself a large plastic box , air-tight joints and Perspex top , with an air-tight fitting door and a pair of fitted gloves , and a one way air valve connected to the hoover , to withdraw some of the air out of the box ???? , maybe even light a candle in the box to burn up the last bit of the oxygen ?? the box would be large-enough for me to have all the tools I need , small scrapers , iron , solder , flux , and the box iam soldering , etc any thoughts ???? I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints by using rubber gaskets and expandable foam and glue between the joints etc ... I don't really want to hear about the construction method down-falls in your replies , more about the theory of soldering aluminium in a vacuum situation or lack of oxygen environment sorry to be blunt , but as so often happens in news articles the main question or topic is often lost by the 3 or 4th reply then it goes of a tangent to the main question . anyway hope some one may be able to help , or has had experience of actually doing what iam trying to do cheers for now de Paul I just did a Google search with aluminum welding and the first one looks very promising...$35.00 for a kit.. Eskay,,,VE3JUA.. |
Henry Kolesnik wrote:
Try this... Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... Next get a good iron with enough wattage to tin the area under the oil with solder.. Then tin another piece and you can solder the 2 together... A beter way perhaps would be if someone has a name that I can't recall but there's a compnay that makes a good Al solder that doesn't need a special flux.. I've seen guys demonstrating it at hamfests and fairs.. They generally show soldering aluminum beverage cans, Al pistons, lawn chair parts, etc. I bought some and their special stainless brush and used it successfully.. But that was a few years ago and I have no idea where I put the stuff.. I'll bet someone here has the url. FYI.. If you were in cosmic space and cleaned the oxide off 2 pieces of aluminum they would stick without heat, solder or flux! 73 hank wd5jfr "uk-hamman" wrote in message ... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. ,Never mind the old resin trick etc .. I wanted to proper solder them , with an iron ..yer I have used different irons , and temperatures various fluxes , and methods and nothing has ever been successful I know all about oxidiodsation , so I thought could I solder it in a vacuum ??? or oxygen free environment ?? say I get myself a large plastic box , air-tight joints and Perspex top , with an air-tight fitting door and a pair of fitted gloves , and a one way air valve connected to the hoover , to withdraw some of the air out of the box ???? , maybe even light a candle in the box to burn up the last bit of the oxygen ?? the box would be large-enough for me to have all the tools I need , small scrapers , iron , solder , flux , and the box iam soldering , etc any thoughts ???? I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints by using rubber gaskets and expandable foam and glue between the joints etc ... I don't really want to hear about the construction method down-falls in your replies , more about the theory of soldering aluminium in a vacuum situation or lack of oxygen environment sorry to be blunt , but as so often happens in news articles the main question or topic is often lost by the 3 or 4th reply then it goes of a tangent to the main question . anyway hope some one may be able to help , or has had experience of actually doing what iam trying to do cheers for now de Paul I just did a Google search with aluminum welding and the first one looks very promising...$35.00 for a kit.. Eskay,,,VE3JUA.. |
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Heli-arc or TIG will do it...
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Heli-arc or TIG will do it...
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On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 21:45:47 -0800, Dr. Anton Squeegee
wrote: In article , uk- says... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. snip Won't happen. Or at least no one that I know of, in 20+ years of hamateur activity, has ever managed to do it. The only way I know of to seamlessly join pieces of aluminum, as you describe, is by welding them. To do so, my understanding is that you need special equipment and an inert gas environment. Indeed. The TIG welding process is ideal for this, particularly if a professional finish is important. But the kit *is* expensive and there's a bit of a skill to be picked up (not *that* difficult, though). -- Q: Why does Mike Tyson cry during sex? A: It's the pepper spray. |
On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 21:45:47 -0800, Dr. Anton Squeegee
wrote: In article , uk- says... HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. snip Won't happen. Or at least no one that I know of, in 20+ years of hamateur activity, has ever managed to do it. The only way I know of to seamlessly join pieces of aluminum, as you describe, is by welding them. To do so, my understanding is that you need special equipment and an inert gas environment. Indeed. The TIG welding process is ideal for this, particularly if a professional finish is important. But the kit *is* expensive and there's a bit of a skill to be picked up (not *that* difficult, though). -- Q: Why does Mike Tyson cry during sex? A: It's the pepper spray. |
On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:06:33 -0000, "uk-hamman"
wrote: HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. I've never succeeded with soldering Ali, what I do is the use aluminium filings loaded into epoxy resin as a glue/filler. My method is to. Degrease the aluminium with Carbon Tet. or similar. Stick some tape over the joint to be 'closed' on the side you can't easily file, leaving a gap / fillet for the epoxy to fill. Mix the epoxy as per normal then introduce the fileings. I find diecast ali fileings are best as they seem to be more granular and file finer grit. 'wet' the joint with some unloaded epoxy and then fill the joint with the loaded epoxy using a spatula. After its set I file the joint to an acceptable profile. I have used this method to fill unwanted holes in diecast boxes with good results. I'm not sure about its screening ability but its a lot better than an open hole, both for screening and presentation. The best epoxy I have used is called "JB Weld" which is incredible for sticking ali and it is easily worked. Acceptable results are possible with "Araldite" but it does'nt appear to have the same 'stick' ability. hth, Mike W, G8NXD |
On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:06:33 -0000, "uk-hamman"
wrote: HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. I've never succeeded with soldering Ali, what I do is the use aluminium filings loaded into epoxy resin as a glue/filler. My method is to. Degrease the aluminium with Carbon Tet. or similar. Stick some tape over the joint to be 'closed' on the side you can't easily file, leaving a gap / fillet for the epoxy to fill. Mix the epoxy as per normal then introduce the fileings. I find diecast ali fileings are best as they seem to be more granular and file finer grit. 'wet' the joint with some unloaded epoxy and then fill the joint with the loaded epoxy using a spatula. After its set I file the joint to an acceptable profile. I have used this method to fill unwanted holes in diecast boxes with good results. I'm not sure about its screening ability but its a lot better than an open hole, both for screening and presentation. The best epoxy I have used is called "JB Weld" which is incredible for sticking ali and it is easily worked. Acceptable results are possible with "Araldite" but it does'nt appear to have the same 'stick' ability. hth, Mike W, G8NXD |
There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name,
its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim "Mike W" wrote in message ... On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:06:33 -0000, "uk-hamman" wrote: HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. I've never succeeded with soldering Ali, what I do is the use aluminium filings loaded into epoxy resin as a glue/filler. My method is to. Degrease the aluminium with Carbon Tet. or similar. Stick some tape over the joint to be 'closed' on the side you can't easily file, leaving a gap / fillet for the epoxy to fill. Mix the epoxy as per normal then introduce the fileings. I find diecast ali fileings are best as they seem to be more granular and file finer grit. 'wet' the joint with some unloaded epoxy and then fill the joint with the loaded epoxy using a spatula. After its set I file the joint to an acceptable profile. I have used this method to fill unwanted holes in diecast boxes with good results. I'm not sure about its screening ability but its a lot better than an open hole, both for screening and presentation. The best epoxy I have used is called "JB Weld" which is incredible for sticking ali and it is easily worked. Acceptable results are possible with "Araldite" but it does'nt appear to have the same 'stick' ability. hth, Mike W, G8NXD --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.536 / Virus Database: 331 - Release Date: 11/3/03 |
There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name,
its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim "Mike W" wrote in message ... On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:06:33 -0000, "uk-hamman" wrote: HI THERE Just a thought , I have often made my own alum boxes , for projects that I have built myself , and have always wanted to solder the edges shut , for a more pleasing look , or sometimes solder two pieces together. I've never succeeded with soldering Ali, what I do is the use aluminium filings loaded into epoxy resin as a glue/filler. My method is to. Degrease the aluminium with Carbon Tet. or similar. Stick some tape over the joint to be 'closed' on the side you can't easily file, leaving a gap / fillet for the epoxy to fill. Mix the epoxy as per normal then introduce the fileings. I find diecast ali fileings are best as they seem to be more granular and file finer grit. 'wet' the joint with some unloaded epoxy and then fill the joint with the loaded epoxy using a spatula. After its set I file the joint to an acceptable profile. I have used this method to fill unwanted holes in diecast boxes with good results. I'm not sure about its screening ability but its a lot better than an open hole, both for screening and presentation. The best epoxy I have used is called "JB Weld" which is incredible for sticking ali and it is easily worked. Acceptable results are possible with "Araldite" but it does'nt appear to have the same 'stick' ability. hth, Mike W, G8NXD --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.536 / Virus Database: 331 - Release Date: 11/3/03 |
On Fri, 07 Nov 2003 20:54:15 GMT, "kf4tun"
wrote: There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name, its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim ============================ I've noticed from this thread that all of the materials that successfully allow aluminum soldering seem to have one major disadvantage. Loss of memory. Jack |
On Fri, 07 Nov 2003 20:54:15 GMT, "kf4tun"
wrote: There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name, its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim ============================ I've noticed from this thread that all of the materials that successfully allow aluminum soldering seem to have one major disadvantage. Loss of memory. Jack |
"J. Yazel" wrote in message ... On Fri, 07 Nov 2003 20:54:15 GMT, "kf4tun" wrote: There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name, its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim ============================ I've noticed from this thread that all of the materials that successfully allow aluminum soldering seem to have one major disadvantage. Loss of memory. Jack What can I say? I forgot what we were talking about! Jim --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.537 / Virus Database: 332 - Release Date: 11/6/03 |
"J. Yazel" wrote in message ... On Fri, 07 Nov 2003 20:54:15 GMT, "kf4tun" wrote: There is an epoxy out there is made for joining aluminum( I forget the name, its like JB-Weld, but for aluminum). You can find it at the larger auto parts stores, and you should be able to find it on the internet. When you grind/file it down, it's hard to tell where the aluminum ends and the epoxy begins. Jim ============================ I've noticed from this thread that all of the materials that successfully allow aluminum soldering seem to have one major disadvantage. Loss of memory. Jack What can I say? I forgot what we were talking about! Jim --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.537 / Virus Database: 332 - Release Date: 11/6/03 |
Try this...
Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... ....[snip].... I've done the very same thing except using silver-cleaning paste! Although it's a bother, it DOES work. I've also seen the demonstrations of the things sold at hamfests, it appears to work very well, and the cost was not bad, either. --Myron. -- Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTX). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
Try this...
Get some good motor oil and put a drop on the aluminum... Then scrape the aluminum oxide off under the oil... ....[snip].... I've done the very same thing except using silver-cleaning paste! Although it's a bother, it DOES work. I've also seen the demonstrations of the things sold at hamfests, it appears to work very well, and the cost was not bad, either. --Myron. -- Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTX). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
In article , "uk-hamman"
wrote: I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints I seem to remember that molten Al reacts with nitrogen. Perhaps you would have to fill your glove box with argon. Good luck! G.H.Ireland -- igor _____________________________________________ Acorn RISC OS4 _____________________________________________ |
In article , "uk-hamman"
wrote: I would be prepared to go to this much trouble if the idea would work . iam sure I can get air tight joints I seem to remember that molten Al reacts with nitrogen. Perhaps you would have to fill your glove box with argon. Good luck! G.H.Ireland -- igor _____________________________________________ Acorn RISC OS4 _____________________________________________ |
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