RadioBanter - Who makes the best solder braid?

RadioBanter (https://www.radiobanter.com/)

- Homebrew (https://www.radiobanter.com/homebrew/)

- - Who makes the best solder braid? (https://www.radiobanter.com/homebrew/21973-who-makes-best-solder-braid.html)

Who makes the best solder braid?

From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a
hat".

From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of
a
hat".
=========================================
If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would
suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of
desoldering braid . Reason : less heat is applied to the components if these
are to be re-used. The same applies to the PCB especially if it is a
repair job ,hence the PCB is to be retained .Personally I have not been very
successful with desoldering braid , but that is perhaps due to a lack of
skill . With a sucker I have never had any problems , desoldering components
on the above type of boards.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

From your experience, who's solder braid is the best?

I like Tech Spray Pro Wick 3.3mm width.
73 Gary N4AST

Richard wrote:

From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a
hat".

I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to
live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off.
Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will
conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is
called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done
with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move.
So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing
it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small
amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt
oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the
solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface
mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000
boards.

After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then
touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the
lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through
hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little
practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the
board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive
parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist
strap.

If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum
desoldering station.
--
Merry Christmas!

Take care, and God bless.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would
suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of
desoldering braid

Frank-

I think it is a good idea to have both in your arsenal. I've used a
spring-piston sucker, as well as a squeeze-bulb sucker and solder wick, and
found that the spring-piston sucker had a rebound that damaged the traces of
the PCB.

If you are trying to recover components from a scrap PCB, the spring-piston
sucker would be most efficient so it would probably be your best choice. If
you do not want to damage the PCB, then perhaps the squeeze-bulb sucker or the
solder wick would be better.

I have used Radio Shack's solder wick since I don't have ready access to
anything better. It works, but I suspect they don't use as much flux in the
braid as they could.

Richard- I suggest you pay close attention to Michael A. Terrell's reply. He
described the way the professional repair people did it where I used to work.

73, Fred, K4DII