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Who makes the best solder braid?
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". |
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". ========================================= If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of desoldering braid . Reason : less heat is applied to the components if these are to be re-used. The same applies to the PCB especially if it is a repair job ,hence the PCB is to be retained .Personally I have not been very successful with desoldering braid , but that is perhaps due to a lack of skill . With a sucker I have never had any problems , desoldering components on the above type of boards. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder
some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". ========================================= If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of desoldering braid . Reason : less heat is applied to the components if these are to be re-used. The same applies to the PCB especially if it is a repair job ,hence the PCB is to be retained .Personally I have not been very successful with desoldering braid , but that is perhaps due to a lack of skill . With a sucker I have never had any problems , desoldering components on the above type of boards. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best?
I like Tech Spray Pro Wick 3.3mm width. 73 Gary N4AST |
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best?
I like Tech Spray Pro Wick 3.3mm width. 73 Gary N4AST |
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Richard wrote:
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Richard wrote:
From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would
suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of desoldering braid Frank- I think it is a good idea to have both in your arsenal. I've used a spring-piston sucker, as well as a squeeze-bulb sucker and solder wick, and found that the spring-piston sucker had a rebound that damaged the traces of the PCB. If you are trying to recover components from a scrap PCB, the spring-piston sucker would be most efficient so it would probably be your best choice. If you do not want to damage the PCB, then perhaps the squeeze-bulb sucker or the solder wick would be better. I have used Radio Shack's solder wick since I don't have ready access to anything better. It works, but I suspect they don't use as much flux in the braid as they could. Richard- I suggest you pay close attention to Michael A. Terrell's reply. He described the way the professional repair people did it where I used to work. 73, Fred, K4DII |
If the soldered components are of the 0.1 or 0.15 inch pitched type I would
suggest you apply a solder (spring operated piston) sucker instead of desoldering braid Frank- I think it is a good idea to have both in your arsenal. I've used a spring-piston sucker, as well as a squeeze-bulb sucker and solder wick, and found that the spring-piston sucker had a rebound that damaged the traces of the PCB. If you are trying to recover components from a scrap PCB, the spring-piston sucker would be most efficient so it would probably be your best choice. If you do not want to damage the PCB, then perhaps the squeeze-bulb sucker or the solder wick would be better. I have used Radio Shack's solder wick since I don't have ready access to anything better. It works, but I suspect they don't use as much flux in the braid as they could. Richard- I suggest you pay close attention to Michael A. Terrell's reply. He described the way the professional repair people did it where I used to work. 73, Fred, K4DII |
On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 23:56:36 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Richard wrote: From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. Why didn't you just use a Pace station? It seems to me to be rather risky to use solder wick on surface mount stuff especially with ESD issues. We are never allowed to use solder wick at work. That said some of the boards that we do are in excess of 200,000 dollars and are irreplaceable. These boards are sometimes 8 levels deep and you have to repair traces that are in the middle of the board. Paces stations work really well for removing large smd's quickly. Then all you have to do is run the vacuum over the pads to clean them up. Tracy |
On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 23:56:36 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Richard wrote: From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. Why didn't you just use a Pace station? It seems to me to be rather risky to use solder wick on surface mount stuff especially with ESD issues. We are never allowed to use solder wick at work. That said some of the boards that we do are in excess of 200,000 dollars and are irreplaceable. These boards are sometimes 8 levels deep and you have to repair traces that are in the middle of the board. Paces stations work really well for removing large smd's quickly. Then all you have to do is run the vacuum over the pads to clean them up. Tracy |
Tracy Fort wrote:
On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 23:56:36 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: Richard wrote: From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. Why didn't you just use a Pace station? It seems to me to be rather risky to use solder wick on surface mount stuff especially with ESD issues. We are never allowed to use solder wick at work. That said some of the boards that we do are in excess of 200,000 dollars and are irreplaceable. These boards are sometimes 8 levels deep and you have to repair traces that are in the middle of the board. Paces stations work really well for removing large smd's quickly. Then all you have to do is run the vacuum over the pads to clean them up. Tracy These were 17 layer boards that came out of the reflow oven with severe problems. We received a bad batch of paste solder, and it didn't show up, till the boards were built. The old solder had to be cleaned up before they could be removed with the hot air system, and some chips were damaged in reflow. They developed microscopic cracks on the bottom that allowed moisture to creep in between the die and the package. By working under a microscope I could find the damaged parts, clean the leads enough to have them replaced, and go to the next board. Another problem was solder balls trapped under the ICs. A little RMA flux, some 2% silver solder and carefully flooding that edge of the chip melted the stray solder. Then you wicked the edge and resoldered. It takes about five minutes a side to fix a 288 pin package. If you are good at SMD work, you can do a better job than a reflow oven. There are things you will see on a production floor you will never encounter in the field because you don't get a board till any manufacturing problems are corrected. I also did preliminary testing on prototype boards for engineering, qualified new parts and vendors for purchasing. I wasn't your average tech. Some people there loved me, others hated me, because I wasn't afraid to walk into the head of engineering to tell him there was a problem, and if they couldn't fix it, my next stop was the president of the company. There were a lot of ECOs and major redesigns that I pushed through. I also removed several well know manufacturers from our approved vendor list, because they refused to correct quality problems. Beckman and Vicor are a couple that come to mind. Beckman SMD pots were made with defective seals, so they sucked water inside when the boards were cleaned after reflow. Vicor had a horrible failure rate on their modular power supplies, and changing the supply required a chassis redesign to hold the new power supply. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Tracy Fort wrote:
On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 23:56:36 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: Richard wrote: From your experience, who's solder braid is the best? I want to desolder some components and I want the braid to soak up the solder "At the drop of a hat". I use copper braid dipped in liquid rosin flux (RMA). One tip is to live about 1/16" of braid with the solder in it when you clip it off. Then put that part against the joint before applying heat. It can will conduct heat to the old joint faster, and do less damage. The method is called "Wet wicking" Keep in mind that wave soldered boards were done with 80/20 solder so it would cool before leads had a chance to move. So, you may need to clean the surface of the old solder before removing it. Apply a thin bead of RMA flux along a row of pins. Put a small amount of solder on the tip if the iron, and run it down the row to melt oxidized solder off the surface. Then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Before I was laid off, I routinely worked with 288 pin surface mount parts and had to be very careful about lifting pads on $8,000 boards. After a hole is clear of solder let it cool for a second or two, then touch the tip of the lead and see if it is free. If it is stuck, let the lead adsorb heat from the iron till it breaks free of the plated through hole. Let it go and see that it doesn't stick again. With a little practice you can do a row ow pins very quickly without damaging the board. A good soldering iron is a must, and for modern ESD sensitive parts you need a grounded soldering iron, along with an ES mat and wrist strap. If you start doing a lot of through hole work, invest in a vacuum desoldering station. Why didn't you just use a Pace station? It seems to me to be rather risky to use solder wick on surface mount stuff especially with ESD issues. We are never allowed to use solder wick at work. That said some of the boards that we do are in excess of 200,000 dollars and are irreplaceable. These boards are sometimes 8 levels deep and you have to repair traces that are in the middle of the board. Paces stations work really well for removing large smd's quickly. Then all you have to do is run the vacuum over the pads to clean them up. Tracy These were 17 layer boards that came out of the reflow oven with severe problems. We received a bad batch of paste solder, and it didn't show up, till the boards were built. The old solder had to be cleaned up before they could be removed with the hot air system, and some chips were damaged in reflow. They developed microscopic cracks on the bottom that allowed moisture to creep in between the die and the package. By working under a microscope I could find the damaged parts, clean the leads enough to have them replaced, and go to the next board. Another problem was solder balls trapped under the ICs. A little RMA flux, some 2% silver solder and carefully flooding that edge of the chip melted the stray solder. Then you wicked the edge and resoldered. It takes about five minutes a side to fix a 288 pin package. If you are good at SMD work, you can do a better job than a reflow oven. There are things you will see on a production floor you will never encounter in the field because you don't get a board till any manufacturing problems are corrected. I also did preliminary testing on prototype boards for engineering, qualified new parts and vendors for purchasing. I wasn't your average tech. Some people there loved me, others hated me, because I wasn't afraid to walk into the head of engineering to tell him there was a problem, and if they couldn't fix it, my next stop was the president of the company. There were a lot of ECOs and major redesigns that I pushed through. I also removed several well know manufacturers from our approved vendor list, because they refused to correct quality problems. Beckman and Vicor are a couple that come to mind. Beckman SMD pots were made with defective seals, so they sucked water inside when the boards were cleaned after reflow. Vicor had a horrible failure rate on their modular power supplies, and changing the supply required a chassis redesign to hold the new power supply. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Rubbing alcohol can be used to remove the excess when you
are through. Bill & Richard- Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. You may also find a product in the automotive stores that uses alcohol to remove water from your gas tank and fuel system. An example I found at Walmart, is "Iso-HEET" water remover that contains isopropyl alcohol as its main ingredient. It works quite well to remove solder flux, and doesn't seem to leave any residue of its own. 73, Fred, K4DII |
Rubbing alcohol can be used to remove the excess when you
are through. Bill & Richard- Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. You may also find a product in the automotive stores that uses alcohol to remove water from your gas tank and fuel system. An example I found at Walmart, is "Iso-HEET" water remover that contains isopropyl alcohol as its main ingredient. It works quite well to remove solder flux, and doesn't seem to leave any residue of its own. 73, Fred, K4DII |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 01:25:06 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. 90% is out there, but as said, tough to find. 99% sounds like something from an industrial supplier. As a caveat, one of the chains had a sale on rubbing alcohols a little ways back, and one of them was 90% ethanol (denatured). However, the other ingredients included methanol, acetone, and a few other things which would make it useless for cleaning. I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 01:25:06 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. 90% is out there, but as said, tough to find. 99% sounds like something from an industrial supplier. As a caveat, one of the chains had a sale on rubbing alcohols a little ways back, and one of them was 90% ethanol (denatured). However, the other ingredients included methanol, acetone, and a few other things which would make it useless for cleaning. I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
In article ,
Bill Turner wrote: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. ____________________ This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. Rubbing alchohol contains goodies like lanoline or aloe which leaves a residue. Most of the time it doen't matter, unless, of course you are looking for high reliability. My local electronics store carries the electronics grade of isopropanol. What is weird about the electronics store is that it no longer carries semiconductors except for LEDs, diodes and selected transistors. They dropped the line as they said it was not selling and it had a huge inventory cost. And this outfit is very busy as it sells to installers. I think their biggest seller is cat-5 cable followed by the hardware that goes with it. The repairmen have gone the way of the buggy whip makers. Al -- There's never enough time to do it right the first time....... |
In article ,
Bill Turner wrote: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. ____________________ This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. Rubbing alchohol contains goodies like lanoline or aloe which leaves a residue. Most of the time it doen't matter, unless, of course you are looking for high reliability. My local electronics store carries the electronics grade of isopropanol. What is weird about the electronics store is that it no longer carries semiconductors except for LEDs, diodes and selected transistors. They dropped the line as they said it was not selling and it had a huge inventory cost. And this outfit is very busy as it sells to installers. I think their biggest seller is cat-5 cable followed by the hardware that goes with it. The repairmen have gone the way of the buggy whip makers. Al -- There's never enough time to do it right the first time....... |
What is weird about the electronics store is that it no longer carries
semiconductors except for LEDs, diodes and selected transistors. They dropped the line as they said it was not selling and it had a huge inventory cost. And this outfit is very busy as it sells to installers. I think their biggest seller is cat-5 cable followed by the hardware that goes with it. The repairmen have gone the way of the buggy whip makers. Most comsumer electronics have gone to the surface mounted devices and few can work on them. The repair people will usually send off the whole board for a replacement they get for a fixed price. Now each manufactor has their own special IC to do the differant jobs. There is no subistution. About 15 to 20 years ago there were several makers of transistors that had the universal replacements where a few devices could replace thousands of differat types. |
What is weird about the electronics store is that it no longer carries
semiconductors except for LEDs, diodes and selected transistors. They dropped the line as they said it was not selling and it had a huge inventory cost. And this outfit is very busy as it sells to installers. I think their biggest seller is cat-5 cable followed by the hardware that goes with it. The repairmen have gone the way of the buggy whip makers. Most comsumer electronics have gone to the surface mounted devices and few can work on them. The repair people will usually send off the whole board for a replacement they get for a fixed price. Now each manufactor has their own special IC to do the differant jobs. There is no subistution. About 15 to 20 years ago there were several makers of transistors that had the universal replacements where a few devices could replace thousands of differat types. |
Al wrote:
Rubbing alchohol contains goodies like lanoline or aloe which leaves a residue. Most of the time it doen't matter, unless, of course you are looking for high reliability. My local electronics store carries the electronics grade of isopropanol. Al For some things I remove flux with a spray can of carburetor cleaner. It is a mix of Toluene, Acetone and Methanol. I bough a bunch of cans at a dollar store. There are other automotive cleaners that have more alcohol in them. I think some brands of disk brake cleaner may be mostly alcohol. I will have to dig into the stash in my shop to take a look the next time I can spend some time there. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Al wrote:
Rubbing alchohol contains goodies like lanoline or aloe which leaves a residue. Most of the time it doen't matter, unless, of course you are looking for high reliability. My local electronics store carries the electronics grade of isopropanol. Al For some things I remove flux with a spray can of carburetor cleaner. It is a mix of Toluene, Acetone and Methanol. I bough a bunch of cans at a dollar store. There are other automotive cleaners that have more alcohol in them. I think some brands of disk brake cleaner may be mostly alcohol. I will have to dig into the stash in my shop to take a look the next time I can spend some time there. -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
In article , Bill Turner
writes: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. ____________________ This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. If you want high-proof isopropyl alcohol, you need "reagent grade" stuff which is available from chemical supply businesses. Clean room assembly places buy the stuff in bulk. Some medical supply places have it, too. When using isopropyl the next thing needed is cotton swabs...lots of them (on wooden sticks), another expense item. :-) Len Anderson retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person |
In article , Bill Turner
writes: On 27 Dec 2003 19:54:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote: Ordinary rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water in it. If you search, some drug stores carry 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. ____________________ This stuff is getting pretty rare, but it would be preferable if you can find it. I used to see 99% isopropyl alcohol but haven't found any for years. I keep looking, though. If you want high-proof isopropyl alcohol, you need "reagent grade" stuff which is available from chemical supply businesses. Clean room assembly places buy the stuff in bulk. Some medical supply places have it, too. When using isopropyl the next thing needed is cotton swabs...lots of them (on wooden sticks), another expense item. :-) Len Anderson retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 08:11:26 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 15:25:15 GMT, Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. I wonder how you know the other ingredient is water? I have tried unsuccessfully to find out the denaturant and have never had any luck. Are they putting it on the list of ingredients now? The last time I tried was a couple of years ago. This brand did list the ingredients, although denaturing is not an issue with IPA. The ethanol had a number of ingredients, but no % breakdown except the alcohol. Told me what I needed. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 08:11:26 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 15:25:15 GMT, Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. I wonder how you know the other ingredient is water? I have tried unsuccessfully to find out the denaturant and have never had any luck. Are they putting it on the list of ingredients now? The last time I tried was a couple of years ago. This brand did list the ingredients, although denaturing is not an issue with IPA. The ethanol had a number of ingredients, but no % breakdown except the alcohol. Told me what I needed. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 17:03:08 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: For some things I remove flux with a spray can of carburetor cleaner. It is a mix of Toluene, Acetone and Methanol. I bough a bunch of cans at a dollar store. There are other automotive cleaners that have more alcohol in them. I think some brands of disk brake cleaner may be mostly alcohol. I will have to dig into the stash in my shop to take a look the next time I can spend some time there. Careful. Many brake cleaners include lots of toluene and other solvents which are extremely unhealthy for skin contact or breathing fumes. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 17:03:08 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: For some things I remove flux with a spray can of carburetor cleaner. It is a mix of Toluene, Acetone and Methanol. I bough a bunch of cans at a dollar store. There are other automotive cleaners that have more alcohol in them. I think some brands of disk brake cleaner may be mostly alcohol. I will have to dig into the stash in my shop to take a look the next time I can spend some time there. Careful. Many brake cleaners include lots of toluene and other solvents which are extremely unhealthy for skin contact or breathing fumes. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
Bill Turner wrote:
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 15:25:15 GMT, Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. ____________________ I wonder how you know the other ingredient is water? I have tried unsuccessfully to find out the denaturant and have never had any luck. Are they putting it on the list of ingredients now? The last time I tried was a couple of years ago. Most denatured alcohol is denatured with methyl alcohol. The water is just there to dilute it. But the denaturing can be done with several substances. http://laws.justice.gc.ca/en/E-14/C....568/98295.html has some regulations for denatured alcohol. It's for Canada, but I'm sure it will apply to most places. It is fairly far down the page. - Mike KB3EIA - |
Bill Turner wrote:
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 15:25:15 GMT, Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: I went with the 70% IPA, because the only other ingredient was water. ____________________ I wonder how you know the other ingredient is water? I have tried unsuccessfully to find out the denaturant and have never had any luck. Are they putting it on the list of ingredients now? The last time I tried was a couple of years ago. Most denatured alcohol is denatured with methyl alcohol. The water is just there to dilute it. But the denaturing can be done with several substances. http://laws.justice.gc.ca/en/E-14/C....568/98295.html has some regulations for denatured alcohol. It's for Canada, but I'm sure it will apply to most places. It is fairly far down the page. - Mike KB3EIA - |
Most denatured alcohol is denatured with methyl alcohol. The water is
just there to dilute it. But the denaturing can be done with several substances. Maybe he should have asked about the best denatured alcohol, so the thread would evolve into the best desoldering braid :-). 73 Gary N4AST |
Most denatured alcohol is denatured with methyl alcohol. The water is
just there to dilute it. But the denaturing can be done with several substances. Maybe he should have asked about the best denatured alcohol, so the thread would evolve into the best desoldering braid :-). 73 Gary N4AST |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 23:33:02 GMT, Mike Coslo
wrote: But the denaturing can be done with several substances. http://laws.justice.gc.ca/en/E-14/C....568/98295.html has some regulations for denatured alcohol. It's for Canada, but I'm sure it will apply to most places. It is fairly far down the page. That is what I expected, and would have been fine with. But this particular one has acetone, and several other things. Since I didn't buy it, I can't read off the other ones. The regs say that it must be denatured to avoid certain taxes and sales regs, but I agree that there are multiple ways to do it. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 23:33:02 GMT, Mike Coslo
wrote: But the denaturing can be done with several substances. http://laws.justice.gc.ca/en/E-14/C....568/98295.html has some regulations for denatured alcohol. It's for Canada, but I'm sure it will apply to most places. It is fairly far down the page. That is what I expected, and would have been fine with. But this particular one has acetone, and several other things. Since I didn't buy it, I can't read off the other ones. The regs say that it must be denatured to avoid certain taxes and sales regs, but I agree that there are multiple ways to do it. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
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"Gary S." wrote:
On 29 Dec 2003 00:01:11 GMT, (JGBOYLES) wrote: Most denatured alcohol is denatured with methyl alcohol. The water is just there to dilute it. But the denaturing can be done with several substances. Maybe he should have asked about the best denatured alcohol, so the thread would evolve into the best desoldering braid :-). 73 Gary N4AST How many brands of desoldering braid are there, and how distinctive are they from each other? Happy trails, Gary I have seen at least a half dozen brands. They seem to have different flux formulations because some work a lot better than others. That is why I switched to buying bulk ground braid and liquid flux. (Kester 197) -- Merry Christmas! Take care, and God bless. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
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