Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Have had reasonable success using the "Sharpies." What kicks me is way back
when, when I bought a PCB kit from the Shack, I tried to make one and the ink came right off. I gave up - I was still young and stupid, but it was the ink that failed. A few years later, I decided to give it another go, using sharpies after reading some others having used them. I did nothing else different. The success was in the pen. Had I tried a different pen way back when, instead of giving up, I could have been very good at it by now, rather than OK. I have made a few PC boards and though "my" artistic talent isn't that great, the boards came out ok and work as intended. When I do decide to make a project, I actually enjoy going through the whole process including making the board. It is fun to go from nothing to a working item. I've made some test equipment for my shop that has saved me a few hours time already and paid for themselves in parts, time and effort. Just out of curiosity, anyone else buy the Shacks PCB kits and have any problems with the pens? OR solution? For me, the solution has been ok. MNS "Avery Fineman" wrote in message ... In article , "Ian White, G3SEK" writes: In Europe there's a gadget called a Dalo resist pen which is made specifically for hand-drawing on PCBs. It has a fine fibre tip and very thick, quick-drying ink. It's very expensive for what it is (namely a not very good fibre-tip pen) but with care it can be quite effective. As many people already know, the Staedtler marker pens (waterproof/ wasserfest grade) are excellent for touching-up photo and iron-on resist patterns, but they're not as good as the Dalo for filling large areas. I'll add something from the machine shop that is probably in the UK as well: Marker lacquer used to make marks on metal about to be machined. Over here it is usually a deep blue and is very dilute lacquer, obvious from the acetone odor. Various brands, some are available in red or green (not good colors). Scribes nicely. Brushes well with small brushes available from craft stores. From the drafting department of old: K&E ink pens, the two-part cylindrical, concentric ones. Those will hold dilute lacquers and there is a pen holder that takes the nibs. Must soak them in acetone after using since the capilliary clearance is tiny. With practice those pens can draw straight lines but any dilute lacquer likes to migrate to the straightedge...:-) Office Depot and Office Max chains over here carry the Sanford "Sharpie" pens (permanent marker type) whose ink is ferric chloride resistant. I find it difficult to maintain a fine nib on those for small foil lines and prefer a small brush. Mileage varies. I once tried acetone-diluted liquid rosin as a resist, had mixed results. Nice odor combination while doing it. :-) As always, with any kind of resist, the unetched copper surface must be clean and oxide free, smooth in order to take the resist evenly. Len Anderson retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|