Power Pole Connectors
Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put
a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles :-) ) ) |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote:
Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles :-) ) ) Did they come with a manual? If so, are all pages present? -- STC // M0TEY // twitter.com/ukradioamateur |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles :-) ) ) For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. |
Power Pole Connectors
On 16/01/16 15:51, Ralph Mowery wrote:
For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. I generally solder mine but I should really invest in a crimp tool, it is far less fiddly. It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC 'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. The plastic clips to hold a 'back to back' pair together are also useful, especially if there is any risk of the connectors being pulled apart. You can also get bushes to allow finer wire to be used in the larger connectors. The groove on the body of the shell can by used to lock the connector in a plastic or metal box, at the top edge. Handy for homebrewing. I use a small plastic box and fit a resetable fuse inside to convert the various handheld leads to powerpower. -- Why you should not ignore animal neglect and cruelty: http://www.caar-uk.org/why.html |
Power Pole Connectors
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. No, couldn't find the accompanying advert for the crimpers so will probably solder the connections unless I can find a man who has the crimpers already. That is, unless I fashion a crimping block in my metal working workshop; how big is the hole for the 30 Amp pins when the crimper is closed? |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. No, couldn't find the accompanying advert for the crimpers so will probably solder the connections unless I can find a man who has the crimpers already. That is, unless I fashion a crimping block in my metal working workshop; how big is the hole for the 30 Amp pins when the crimper is closed? No worries for the person who introduced me to Power Poles in practice, a model engineer for whom I was diagnosing a lock-up in the motor controller of his 5" gauge Class 45 diesel will lend me his crimper. |
Power Pole Connectors
In article ,
"gareth" wrote: "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. No, couldn't find the accompanying advert for the crimpers so will probably solder the connections unless I can find a man who has the crimpers already. That is, unless I fashion a crimping block in my metal working workshop; how big is the hole for the 30 Amp pins when the crimper is closed? I also used the Molex 2-pin connectors for many years. It may have been a Heathkit or an Icom FM radio that got me started. Then the local ARES guys came up with a "standard" that was backwards from what I had! As far as I can tell, the PowerPole standard is fairly universal. I believe the 45 Amp terminals are open barrel, and the 30 Amp terminals are cylindrical barrel. Before the expensive open barrel crimp tool was introduced, they recommended a common Gardner-Bender tool that put a deep dimple in the back of the 30 Amp barrel. You could open the barrel slightly and use it with 10 AWG stranded wire. Do not use tension pins to lock connector housings together. There is a high probability they will come out, and could short-circuit any electronic equipment they fall into. Instead, use super glue to join them. Some are sold already glued together. Other than tension pins falling out, the only other problem I've had was when the terminal did not "click" when inserted into its housing. Fred K4DII |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... "gareth" wrote in message ... "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here (Why I ever decided to put a detachable 12V lead via an octal plug/socket combination on my HB QRP 80M rig is beyond me!) and discovered Torberry down in Waterlooville, Hants. Ordered enough yesterday, and prompt delivery today! Well done that firm! (No connection with them (apart from the Power Poles For a good number of years a friend and I used some 2 pin Molex type plugs for the 12 volt power so they would all interchange. They were not rated for the current of the later devices and started to be difficult to find. We have now switched over to the power poles like some of the rest of the country. There is a recommended way to pair them up as sort of a 'standard' so people in different parts of the country can swap out the gear if wanted. While there are several varities of them, they make some that use the same plastic housing and the contacts are different only in the size of wire they are made for. I think it is the 15, 30,45 amp ones that are that way. I hope you spent afew more dollars and bought the crimping tool for them. Makes instlling them well worth the $ 20 or for the tool. No, couldn't find the accompanying advert for the crimpers so will probably solder the connections unless I can find a man who has the crimpers already. That is, unless I fashion a crimping block in my metal working workshop; how big is the hole for the 30 Amp pins when the crimper is closed? No worries for the person who introduced me to Power Poles in practice, a model engineer for whom I was diagnosing a lock-up in the motor controller of his 5" gauge Class 45 diesel will lend me his crimper. Borrowed it this morning, only to find that it's not an Anderson crimper but a Draper one. Still, here goes ... |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... A little disappointed as I had thought that the black and red ones wouldn't interlink, but this is only true of they're paired together as in the demo ... http://www.g0hwc.com/anderson-powerpole.html |
Power Pole Connectors
On 17/01/2016 14:39, gareth wrote:
"gareth" wrote in message ... A little disappointed as I had thought that the black and red ones wouldn't interlink, but this is only true of they're paired together as in the demo ... http://www.g0hwc.com/anderson-powerpole.html ha ha suckered..... -- Cheat your way through life, join the Freemasons DIGITAL just doesn't work properly most of the time Hammy Mens are not Radio Amateurs |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would not slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook over the end of the flat spring. Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat such that even when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad contact if I continue. (I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions, please?) |
Power Pole Connectors
" It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC
'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. " The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into something that costs you money. 73 On 01/18/2016 08:05 AM, gareth wrote: "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would not slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook over the end of the flat spring. Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat such that even when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad contact if I continue. (I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions, please?) |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would not slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook over the end of the flat spring. Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat such that even when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad contact if I continue. (I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions, please?) Problem solved by resorting to soldering. In any case, the guy who lent me the crimpers had been using them for the 100A, or thereabouts, versions for his 5" gauge battery-powered Claas 45 diesel outline, so no wonder that even the smallest setting on his crimpers wouldn't close properly on a 30A jobbie. |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... "gareth" wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would not slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook over the end of the flat spring. Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat such that even when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad contact if I continue. (I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions, please?) Problem solved by resorting to soldering. In any case, the guy who lent me the crimpers had been using them for the 100A, or thereabouts, versions for his 5" gauge battery-powered Claas 45 diesel outline, so no wonder that even the smallest setting on his crimpers wouldn't close properly on a 30A jobbie. Now, whereas the G0HWC websire recommends a roll pin to stop the black and red pair separating, and others have decried that lest the pin falls out and causes an electrical short, as I have a bucketful of 8BA ex-eqpt screws, perhaps the answer might be to tap that little hole to take a machine screw. |
Power Pole Connectors
Brian Reay wrote:
Reynard wrote: " It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC 'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. " The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into something that costs you money. Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth investing in, fine, you are free not to. I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected, vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle. |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... All is rosy now in the garden,and thanks for suggestions. Now, all I need is a 1/4" or so plug and socket so that I can quickly attach the ground terminal to whichever rig is now powerpoled to the ATU and the PSU. I'm using the green/yellow 10mm sq stuff used for earthing in Brit, and 'tis a bit unwieldy to keep fiddling with the wing nut attachment on the back of each rig. Shack is upstairs, front bedroom, earth is ground stake and a fan of microbore tubing apread out over the front lawn. House earth is a TT installation so no probs with PME, etc. |
Power Pole Connectors
I have been only soldering them for some years. I saw in a recent QST
article that you really must crimp them, but no reason given for why. I find doing it with solder (a) makes it a lot easier to keep the "hollow end" of the PowerPole round so that it fits easily in the plastic cover and (b) also makes them fairly easy to take apart without damage so that I can reuse the PowerPole. (I do have a fancy, fairly professional, set of crimping tools, but I also found the terminals frequently got "squished" out of shape." Bob Wilson On 1/18/2016 12:00 PM, gareth wrote: "gareth" wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would not slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook over the end of the flat spring. Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat such that even when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad contact if I continue. (I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions, please?) Problem solved by resorting to soldering. In any case, the guy who lent me the crimpers had been using them for the 100A, or thereabouts, versions for his 5" gauge battery-powered Claas 45 diesel outline, so no wonder that even the smallest setting on his crimpers wouldn't close properly on a 30A jobbie. I |
Power Pole Connectors
On 1/18/2016 1:06 PM, Rob wrote:
Brian Reay wrote: Reynard wrote: " It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC 'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. " The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into something that costs you money. Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth investing in, fine, you are free not to. I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected, vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle. There actually are chassis mount versions, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-1470G.../dp/B00IHOC8QA. But anywhere I have seen them they have been much more expensive than the "end of the wire" versions that I keep in stock. But note that several recent radios (e.g. Yaesu Ft2900r) have their power connections (typically Molex) on the end of a short pigtail. We can do likewise, short wires through a grommet or strain relief on the chassis and PowerPoles on their ends. That does not take care of your distribution box too well and it is not as pretty even for other uses, I'd rather have the chassis versions too, but not at their prices! Bob Wilson |
Power Pole Connectors
On 18/01/2016 19:06, Rob wrote:
Brian Reay wrote: Reynard wrote: " It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC 'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. " The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into something that costs you money. Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth investing in, fine, you are free not to. I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected, vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=chassis+mount+powerpole |
Power Pole Connectors
"Bob Wilson" wrote in message ... I have been only soldering them for some years. I saw in a recent QST article that you really must crimp them, but no reason given for why. I find doing it with solder (a) makes it a lot easier to keep the "hollow end" of the PowerPole round so that it fits easily in the plastic cover and (b) also makes them fairly easy to take apart without damage so that I can reuse the PowerPole. (I do have a fancy, fairly professional, set of crimping tools, but I also found the terminals frequently got "squished" out of shape." Bob Wilson Crimping works well if the correct type of tool is used. I have an inexpensive crimper that is made for the power poles and have no problem with them. Is that set you have made especially for the power poles ? Stranded wire is recommended to be crimped because if it is soldered it becomes the equal of a solid wire where the solder wicks up the wire and if flexed or bent many times it may break. If you don't worry about the wire breaking then soldering is fine. Solid wire does not crimp well. |
Power Pole Connectors
"Rob" wrote in message ... I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected, vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle. There are ways to to mount them to a chassis, but it seems expensive for the way they are made. |
Power Pole Connectors
On 01/18/2016 07:13 PM, gareth wrote:
"gareth" wrote in message ... All is rosy now in the garden,and thanks for suggestions. Now, all I need is a 1/4" or so plug and socket so that I can quickly attach the ground terminal to whichever rig is now powerpoled to the ATU and the PSU. I'm using the green/yellow 10mm sq stuff used for earthing in Brit, and 'tis a bit unwieldy to keep fiddling with the wing nut attachment on the back of each rig. Shack is upstairs, front bedroom, earth is ground stake and a fan of microbore tubing apread out over the front lawn. House earth is a TT installation so no probs with PME, etc. ========= RF earth for an upstairs shack can be effectively done with an "earth tuner" e.g. a series tuned variable C /variable inductor with a RF current sensor ie wound toroid/ diode /mA meter and potmeter, having say the inductor end connected to a random length of wire running on the floor in the room (under carpet ) The tuner needs to be adjusted for max RF current (low impedance). Only disadvantage compared with a straight earth wire into the ground is the requirement to retune when changing frequency. The above is often used in apartment buildings where a direct earth wire is not practical. I made such a tuner myself for demonstration puposes ,but MFJ make them (Artificial Ground Model MFJ-931) See also Practical Wireless Mag , October 1990 ,page 21) for home brewing. Frank , GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote in message
... Now, all I need is a 1/4" or so plug and socket so that I can quickly attach the ground terminal to whichever rig is now powerpoled to the ATU and the PSU. .... and I'm not thinking straight, because the obvious answer is 45 amp GREEN powerpoles !!! Doh! |
Power Pole Connectors
"Brian Reay" wrote in message ... There are at least two types. One is simply a couple of E shaped metal plates. The centre of the E goes into the small hole, the connector body fits in the gaps. You can stack connectors and put one plate at each end. This type are very cheap. I don't think I have seen that kind, or if I did only one set of the PPs were installed that way. I would like for someone to come out with about 8 or 10 sets on a plate for cheap price, not the $ 50 or more for them that I have seen. Years ago I made up a plate to go on the back of my radio desk which resembles a computer desk that has several sets of bannana jacks on it that works ok, but have to just use wires or the spade lugs on it. |
Power Pole Connectors
"Brian Reay" wrote in message
... I normally solder but place a cable tie near the connector, where the wires part, and under the boot. This helps prevent the last section of wire before the connector being flexed (you can see it if you try the idea), which is the area where, as you say, the wire may break due to the wicked solder. Do you mean putting the cable tie in longitudinally to stiffen the wires, or to rgip the wires to the shroud? |
Power Pole Connectors
"gareth" wrote:
I'm not thinking straight Story of your life, OM. -- STC // M0TEY // twitter.com/ukradioamateur |
Power Pole Connectors
gareth wrote:
hereas the G0HWC websire recommends a roll pin to stop the black and red pair separating, and others have decried that lest the pin falls out and causes an electrical short So why not buy the Red+black housings that have been ultrasonically welded together in the factory? |
Power Pole Connectors
In article "Ralph Mowery" writes:
"Bob Wilson" wrote in message ... I have been only soldering them for some years. I saw in a recent QST article that you really must crimp them, but no reason given for why. I find doing it with solder (a) makes it a lot easier to keep the "hollow end" of the PowerPole round so that it fits easily in the plastic cover and (b) also makes them fairly easy to take apart without damage so that I can reuse the PowerPole. (I do have a fancy, fairly professional, set of crimping tools, but I also found the terminals frequently got "squished" out of shape." Bob Wilson Crimping works well if the correct type of tool is used. I have an inexpensive crimper that is made for the power poles and have no problem with them. Is that set you have made especially for the power poles ? Stranded wire is recommended to be crimped because if it is soldered it becomes the equal of a solid wire where the solder wicks up the wire and if flexed or bent many times it may break. If you don't worry about the wire breaking then soldering is fine. Solid wire does not crimp well. Not only does solder wick up the stranded wire and make it non-flexible and prone to breakage, it also causes it to torque the actual connector inside the housing to make poorer connections if the cable has side force or twist on it. Also, there is the very high risk of wicking solder up on the active sliding contact, covering the silver contact with a tin/lead one, reducing the contact quality. The crimp tool is faster, allows getting the ends on straight (so they are not torqued in the housing), and does a better job. Alan |
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