Hi Jim

Yes, I also prefer the Fluke meters. I own a bench and handheld model.

They have a lifetime warranty and are a good investment new or used.

Many good models available on ebay from the big tech sellers at a good price.

judy


James wrote:

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)

In article ,
says...

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.

On the other hand, I almost reached the point of insanity with a brand-
new Fluke 65 IR thermometer awhile back, trying to measure my car's
exhaust header temperatures with it. Every time I held it at the
(extremely awkward) position and orientation needed to aim the laser at
any of the exhaust ports, it would shut itself off.

The only thing that stopped me from sending it back to Circuit
Specialists for a refund was the fact that it would *only* shut off when
used under the hood of the car. I could never reproduce the problem
anywhere else around the house.

The problem turned out to be EMI from the Electromotive HPV aftermarket
ignition system. (After turning the ignition off, the thermometer
stopped shutting down.) Caveat mensor.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

I echo what Eike has said. I own and use an older 85 (also gave one to
a son to take to University). It works in all conditions including,
something especially important one would think to this group, in the
presence of a lot of RF.
The low resistance range has been invaluable. The sensitive AC
range allowed me with ease to tell if 240 VAC water heating elements
were operating by measuring the voltage across the straps going to the
elements. (Not between!) Recently, I used the capacitance feature to
verify that a control line was almost certainly open at its far end
(that was a long way up a hot tower).
Good tools pay! I can raise penny pinching to an art form, but I
use Klein safety harnesses, HP calculator, and Fluke meter. 73 Mac
N8TT
P.S. My answer to the question is to buy something in the 80 series.
--
J. Mc Laughlin - Michigan USA
Home:


"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate,
save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply


I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike

I echo what Eike has said. I own and use an older 85 (also gave one to
a son to take to University). It works in all conditions including,
something especially important one would think to this group, in the
presence of a lot of RF.
The low resistance range has been invaluable. The sensitive AC
range allowed me with ease to tell if 240 VAC water heating elements
were operating by measuring the voltage across the straps going to the
elements. (Not between!) Recently, I used the capacitance feature to
verify that a control line was almost certainly open at its far end
(that was a long way up a hot tower).
Good tools pay! I can raise penny pinching to an art form, but I
use Klein safety harnesses, HP calculator, and Fluke meter. 73 Mac
N8TT
P.S. My answer to the question is to buy something in the 80 series.
--
J. Mc Laughlin - Michigan USA
Home:


"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate,
save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply


I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike

On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:15:29 -0400, "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE"
wrote:

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
[snip]

They are good.

For what it is worth, I bought a big Fluke 5 1/2 digit 8520A ten or
more years back used. It is still going strong. I hardly ever use some
of its fancy features, but I do use 4-wire resistance sometimes. It is
hardly portable (rack mount size) but great on the bench.

Here's a story about its resistance to abuse:

At some flea market I once acquired some strange glass encapsulated
resistors. They were at least an inch long and very high resistance
(100Mohm or more as I recall). It occured to me I could use one or two
to make a nice HV probe. So I built a divider inside a plastic tube. I
found a HV dc/dc supply in my junk that I think was in the 1-2 kv
range. I turned it on, and tried measuring with my new probe plugged
into my Fluke. The plastic tube was clear, and to by horror, when I
touched the probe on the HV the glass resistor lit up. (I'm guessing
they were gas filled to do this on purpose, but I really have no clue
why it happened -- the voltage should not have jumped the gap in air.)

So as I see this happening in the probe, I hear the Fluke make strange
unpleasant clicking noises. I look over at my favorite meter and the
display is now in Klingon. With great sadness I power cycle the meter
and to my amazement the meter looks fine. I have never seen any
indication that anything was permanently injured. Try that with a
cheapo meter.

Not that I have anything against the cheap ones -- I have several.

On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:15:29 -0400, "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE"
wrote:

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
[snip]

They are good.

For what it is worth, I bought a big Fluke 5 1/2 digit 8520A ten or
more years back used. It is still going strong. I hardly ever use some
of its fancy features, but I do use 4-wire resistance sometimes. It is
hardly portable (rack mount size) but great on the bench.

Here's a story about its resistance to abuse:

At some flea market I once acquired some strange glass encapsulated
resistors. They were at least an inch long and very high resistance
(100Mohm or more as I recall). It occured to me I could use one or two
to make a nice HV probe. So I built a divider inside a plastic tube. I
found a HV dc/dc supply in my junk that I think was in the 1-2 kv
range. I turned it on, and tried measuring with my new probe plugged
into my Fluke. The plastic tube was clear, and to by horror, when I
touched the probe on the HV the glass resistor lit up. (I'm guessing
they were gas filled to do this on purpose, but I really have no clue
why it happened -- the voltage should not have jumped the gap in air.)

So as I see this happening in the probe, I hear the Fluke make strange
unpleasant clicking noises. I look over at my favorite meter and the
display is now in Klingon. With great sadness I power cycle the meter
and to my amazement the meter looks fine. I have never seen any
indication that anything was permanently injured. Try that with a
cheapo meter.

Not that I have anything against the cheap ones -- I have several.

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply



I have a 'Heath by Fluke' model SM-77 which
works very well for me. It's not a true RMS
meter, which might be a problem for some though.
The newer models also measure capacitance and
frequency, but if all you want is a DMM this
one is fine. Fluke still makes this model,
under their own model number. (It's the
familiar narrow, tall meter with the 8 position
knob to the left side and 4 digit display).

I did manage to blow the low current fuse in the
meter (guess what, it comes with a spare fuse,
inside!). The 9 volt battery lasts forever
(think I've changed it twice in 20 years,
and one time was because I left the meter on
for a week straight!).

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, says...

Top-posting corrected -- Please don't top-post. See this link for
the reason why: http://www.html-faq.com/etiquette/?toppost

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply

A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

Perhaps. However, one thing that I've learned, after being in the
electronics/RF field for 25+ years, is that it is not wise to cut
corners on your test gear. It should be looked on as an investment as
opposed to an expense.

Fluke multimeters are, IMO, well worth the higher price for the
warranty, support, and how long they last.

Case in point: I bought an original model 77 back in 1984. Here it
is, 20 years later, and the thing is still with me and still working
great. I've checked its calibration three times in the entire time I've
had it (most recently, about two years ago), and it has always been
right on. I've gone through perhaps four batteries in that time as well.

Find me the "cheap one from Maplin or RS" that will compare to
that kind of durability and reliability, and I will cheerfully STFU.

Now, as to recommendations: Pretty much anything in the 20, 70, or
80 series will do nicely. Choose what you want based on what feature set
you want. Top of the line is, as I recall, the 87 series.

Be prepared to spend between $150-$400, depending on which model
you settle on.

Happy hunting.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply


I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike