What do people use?

I use ExpressPCB. I know that one of your requirements was "accept
Protel Autotrax" but they don't take it.

That said, they do have their own free software (very little automatic
layout but good control over things that'll matter at VHF/UHF/microwave
frequencies) and I've been 100% satisfied by their service. Good
prices and very quick turnaround on my hobbyist stuff, and they also do
4-layer and masks and production stuff too.

Most of my boards are a mix of SMD and digital and RF.

Tim.