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Old March 22nd 06, 05:47 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
Doc
 
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Default Eddystone dial

Does anyone in the group have any idea of what an Eddystone dial, Model
898, is worth. I bought a new one, along with the parts for the Ted
Crosby HBR receiver many years ago, but never got around to building
it. The XYL is pushing me to downsize and I need to start somewhere. I
may have an interested party, but can list it on e-Bay if this falls
through. I'd like to get some idea of where to start.
Doc, W4ITJ

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Old March 22nd 06, 07:16 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
Dale Parfitt
 
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Default Eddystone dial


"Doc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Does anyone in the group have any idea of what an Eddystone dial, Model
898, is worth. I bought a new one, along with the parts for the Ted
Crosby HBR receiver many years ago, but never got around to building
it. The XYL is pushing me to downsize and I need to start somewhere. I
may have an interested party, but can list it on e-Bay if this falls
through. I'd like to get some idea of where to start.
Doc, W4ITJ

If this is the 898:
http://www.parelectronics.com/pics/w7zoi14.jpg


I bought mine on EBay for around $10.

Dale W4OP


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Old March 25th 06, 09:23 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
 
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Default Eddystone dial

Dale W4OP,

Dale,

I believe you posted an e-mail and a link to QRP-L a while back to show
your receiver. Should have said this before but better late than never.
Nice job.

If I remember correctly you used a basic 160M receiver with multiple
front end convertors. Also I believe you used blue backlighting?

Don,

K5UOS

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Old March 25th 06, 11:54 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
Dale Parfitt
 
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Default Eddystone dial


wrote in message
oups.com...
Dale W4OP,


Dale,

I believe you posted an e-mail and a link to QRP-L a while back to show
your receiver. Should have said this before but better late than never.
Nice job.

If I remember correctly you used a basic 160M receiver with multiple
front end convertors. Also I believe you used blue backlighting?

Don,

K5UOS


Hi Don,
Thanks for the kind words. The receiver is based on W7ZOI's Progressive RX
from the late 80's. To Wes's excellent design I added,
S meter
AM detection
LM386 for loudspeaker w/ tone control
audio notch filter
Homebrew 5/2.5/.5 xtal filters
fast/slow/off AGC

80M RX with xtal controlled converters for 160/49/40/20/15/10ABC
The VFO drifts a little over 150Hz in the 1st 5 minutes then settles down to
+/- 20Hz in a 5 minute period. Wonderful sound and gets more use than the
PRO II
73,

Dale W4OP



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Old March 26th 06, 04:00 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
 
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Default Eddystone dial and custom dial plates

Well Dale it looks very nice and obviously works well too. I thought I
remembered you saying the Progressive Receiver. I am glad I had a
chance to compliment you.

Since the subject was the Eddiestone dial I expect that was probably a
chore to install. I usually build homebrew dial chord and drum
mechanisms and more recently use the flange type Jackson Brothers and
Oren Elliot drives. I just figured out a way to make custom dial
plates. Probably an old idea but new to me.

I just finished a 40M receiver for a SSB transceiver. I thought about
using a small blank CD for the dial plate. What I ended up doing was
getting a piece of brass sheet from ACE Hardware and using a 2 1/4"
hole saw (my chassis panel is 3") I cut a round disc. I had a small
amount of deburring to do but the brass is way tougher than aluminum
and a simple file removed the burrs. The 3/8" drill bit also provided a
true center for the dial plate. I polished it with super fine auto
rubbing compound. I ended up with a nice dial plate.

I need to mount it to a small shaft section of a vernier capacitor from
Ocean State Electronics. I took a shaft coupler, the type with
removable couplings on both sides, and using very tiny scews mounted
this removable portion of the coupling to the plate.

Its hard to describe. But I am pleased with myself as I a mechanically
weak.

This is a good method for making custom dial plates. I had to use a
good chord type drill as my cordless was getting warm. I also mounted
the plate for drilling using two wood screws and fastening the uncut
plate to a scrap 2 x 4 by drilling holes slightly above and below my
cut.

Now I gotta figure out how to mark the plate. Well maybe I will catch
you on the air sometime Dale.

K5UOS

Dale Parfitt wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dale W4OP,


Dale,

I believe you posted an e-mail and a link to QRP-L a while back to show
your receiver. Should have said this before but better late than never.
Nice job.

If I remember correctly you used a basic 160M receiver with multiple
front end convertors. Also I believe you used blue backlighting?

Don,

K5UOS


Hi Don,
Thanks for the kind words. The receiver is based on W7ZOI's Progressive RX
from the late 80's. To Wes's excellent design I added,
S meter
AM detection
LM386 for loudspeaker w/ tone control
audio notch filter
Homebrew 5/2.5/.5 xtal filters
fast/slow/off AGC

80M RX with xtal controlled converters for 160/49/40/20/15/10ABC
The VFO drifts a little over 150Hz in the 1st 5 minutes then settles down to
+/- 20Hz in a 5 minute period. Wonderful sound and gets more use than the
PRO II
73,

Dale W4OP




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Old March 28th 06, 02:46 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
Ted
 
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Default Eddystone dial and custom dial plates

Don (and Dale, if you're still listening),
I apologize in advance for not snipping this reply, but I want to
preserve the whole thread and file it to my Hints and Kinks folder on
the hard drive, for that dial mechanism.

Speaking of the Progressive Receiver, I was thinking about building
one myself a couple of months ago. At the end of the article in the
November '81 QST, Wes shows the math to figure out capacitor values
for the VFO. Well, I spreadsheeted that, and I may have found an
error. I check for errata on the ARRL site, and didn't find any
further references.

Everything checks out perfectly until the last step, where he solves
for C3. Wes's example yields C3 = 127.02 X 10E-12 F.

My values show C3= 355 -(1/50 + 1/126.8) quantity to the -1 power,
which is 355 - 35.85 or 319.1 pF, not 127.02 pF. Did I mess up with
the math?

This is fairly significant to me, because I can see use for this
calculation beyond this particular project, never seeming to have the
right variable cap on hand. I floated this problem to the local NoGa
QRP math gurus, but it turns out I guess we don't have any . I
didn't really want to put it on qrp_tech.

Dale, I've commented to you previously on your magnificent receiver,
and Don, that's a nice idea on the dial plate. One thing you could do
is design the markings in a drawing program to fit your brass disk,
and then iron on a Press-n-Peel image to the brass, and etch it. Then
you could apply a layer of black paint to the disk, and carefully wipe
it off until only the etched areas remained with paint. Alternatively,
If your image is clear enough (reversed this time), you could simply
use that after ironing it on, and spray it with a fixative to protect
the toner and the brass. A couple of the guys were doing that for
panel legends.

Some of the guys in the homebrew_pcb Yahoo group have built their own
CNC milling machines, and the do their PC boards that way. That would
be good for this, as well.

72/73 to you both,
Ted KX4OM

On 26 Mar 2006 07:00:39 -0800, wrote:

Well Dale it looks very nice and obviously works well too. I thought I
remembered you saying the Progressive Receiver. I am glad I had a
chance to compliment you.

Since the subject was the Eddiestone dial I expect that was probably a
chore to install. I usually build homebrew dial chord and drum
mechanisms and more recently use the flange type Jackson Brothers and
Oren Elliot drives. I just figured out a way to make custom dial
plates. Probably an old idea but new to me.

I just finished a 40M receiver for a SSB transceiver. I thought about
using a small blank CD for the dial plate. What I ended up doing was
getting a piece of brass sheet from ACE Hardware and using a 2 1/4"
hole saw (my chassis panel is 3") I cut a round disc. I had a small
amount of deburring to do but the brass is way tougher than aluminum
and a simple file removed the burrs. The 3/8" drill bit also provided a
true center for the dial plate. I polished it with super fine auto
rubbing compound. I ended up with a nice dial plate.

I need to mount it to a small shaft section of a vernier capacitor from
Ocean State Electronics. I took a shaft coupler, the type with
removable couplings on both sides, and using very tiny scews mounted
this removable portion of the coupling to the plate.

Its hard to describe. But I am pleased with myself as I a mechanically
weak.

This is a good method for making custom dial plates. I had to use a
good chord type drill as my cordless was getting warm. I also mounted
the plate for drilling using two wood screws and fastening the uncut
plate to a scrap 2 x 4 by drilling holes slightly above and below my
cut.

Now I gotta figure out how to mark the plate. Well maybe I will catch
you on the air sometime Dale.

K5UOS

Dale Parfitt wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
Dale W4OP,

Dale,

I believe you posted an e-mail and a link to QRP-L a while back to show
your receiver. Should have said this before but better late than never.
Nice job.

If I remember correctly you used a basic 160M receiver with multiple
front end convertors. Also I believe you used blue backlighting?

Don,

K5UOS


Hi Don,
Thanks for the kind words. The receiver is based on W7ZOI's Progressive RX
from the late 80's. To Wes's excellent design I added,
S meter
AM detection
LM386 for loudspeaker w/ tone control
audio notch filter
Homebrew 5/2.5/.5 xtal filters
fast/slow/off AGC

80M RX with xtal controlled converters for 160/49/40/20/15/10ABC
The VFO drifts a little over 150Hz in the 1st 5 minutes then settles down to
+/- 20Hz in a 5 minute period. Wonderful sound and gets more use than the
PRO II
73,

Dale W4OP

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Old March 23rd 06, 01:43 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
 
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Default Eddystone dial


Doc wrote:
Does anyone in the group have any idea of what an Eddystone dial, Model
898, is worth. I bought a new one, along with the parts for the Ted
Crosby HBR receiver many years ago, but never got around to building
it. The XYL is pushing me to downsize and I need to start somewhere. I
may have an interested party, but can list it on e-Bay if this falls
through. I'd like to get some idea of where to start.



If you have all the parts, I'd be interested in them all. I have lots
of dials, but would like to recreate the HBR receiver I built in the
early 60's.

As for the dial, expect about 30-50 dollars. You might do better, but
most fall in that range.

73 Tom

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Old April 13th 06, 05:15 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
Chris M0HMR
 
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Default Eddystone dial


Doc wrote:
Does anyone in the group have any idea of what an Eddystone dial, Model
898, is worth. I bought a new one, along with the parts for the Ted
Crosby HBR receiver many years ago, but never got around to building
it. The XYL is pushing me to downsize and I need to start somewhere. I
may have an interested party, but can list it on e-Bay if this falls
through. I'd like to get some idea of where to start.
Doc, W4ITJ


Hi Doc:

I bought a good 898 recently for £30 which I guess is around $44.

Regards, Chris M0HMR

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