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Using Garage for Ham Shack
Hi Everyone,
I hope to get my technician license for the first time in a month or two, and I've been thinking of setting-up shop in the garage once I start getting some radios and equipment. Some questions though, the garage is on the corner of our brick house with one smaller window (facing front of house), two walls are interior walls with other two being exterior (one having garage door). My thought is if I insulate the attic and the one exterior wall without the garage door then replace my aging garage door with a better sealing one, that should do the trick -- right? As for heating and cooling, i'm in central texas, and our summers do get hot. I don't think our A/C in the house could pump out enough cool air to cool an additional 430sqft, so any suggestions for that? The only window is on front of house, so don't want to use window unit. I have a radiant heater I've used in there for winter, and it works well. Thanks for any suggestions or ideas ... we don't park our cars in the garage, and I hope to build a small shead in the back yard for the mowers and such -- so that's 430sqft of space that's going to waste. Thanks again and take care --- Alex |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
I use my tornado shelter. It is small, and cozy, and doesn't need
air condx much cause it is soil temp in winter or summer.... Still gets a little cold, tho.... And the wife NEVER goes there, so I can put up my Elvira posters and not get any grief...... =================================== I thought you would get enough excitement from Ham Radio alone...........;)) Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
On Fri, 30 Jun 2006 13:31:26 -0700, Alex wrote:
Hi Everyone, I hope to get my technician license for the first time in a month or two, and I've been thinking of setting-up shop in the garage once I start getting some radios and equipment. Some questions though, the garage is on the corner of our brick house with one smaller window (facing front of house), two walls are interior walls with other two being exterior (one having garage door). Andy: my answer is completely lateral thinking, but if for some reason the whole ham shcak thing at your home doesn't work out what about HF/VHF mobile from your car (with A/C of course), or join your local ham radio club that has its own station. I know from experience that many club stations often get very little use! Good luck with your solutions... Larry VE7EA |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
I am in Central Oklahoma. It is a little cooler in Oklahoma but not
much. I built a garage shack a couple years ago. I framed a 9 x 9 room and insulated the ceiling and outside walls. I sheet rocked, texturized and painted the inside. One side is a rib-high workbench with shelves for parts, tools and my test gear. I was more concerned with the workspace but left room for an operating position on an opposite wall. Check Ace Hardware's portable air conditioners. I have a roll-around that vents into the garage and sits in one corner on wheels. I am considering adding the house system at some time as the main unit is 3 feet from the room. However, the portable is better than I expected. These units can be purchased with heaters too. I decided to make the room permanent. It is airtight and heats and cools well. But simple plywood and insulation would provide a good start. Very temporary walls could be build but in my case I wanted a solid door. Also, a couple 100W light bulbs keep the room decent the whole winter at 60 deg or above. I also have intake air drawn from a less unused portion of the house with a small one way dryer vent when I used the airconditioner. Not real efficient but I don't see the effect on my electric bill. A little more complex but lets me use the shop during the hottest parts of the summer days. I had always wanted a secluded room/shop of my own and I have been real happy with it. I build tube gear and its most enjoyable on those cold winter nights when no heater is needed with 21 tubes blazing away. BTW, in my old house I merely put some heavy cloth material around the bench in the winter and used a small space heater. Totally unsafe but I was younger, dumber.....and luckier. K5UOS |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
Alex wrote:
Hi Everyone, I hope to get my technician license for the first time in a month or two, and I've been thinking of setting-up shop in the garage once I start getting some radios and equipment. Some questions though, the garage is on the corner of our brick house with one smaller window (facing front of house), two walls are interior walls with other two being exterior (one having garage door). My thought is if I insulate the attic and the one exterior wall without the garage door then replace my aging garage door with a better sealing one, that should do the trick -- right? As for heating and cooling, i'm in central texas, and our summers do get hot. I don't think our A/C in the house could pump out enough cool air to cool an additional 430sqft, so any suggestions for that? The only window is on front of house, so don't want to use window unit. I have a radiant heater I've used in there for winter, and it works well. Thanks for any suggestions or ideas ... we don't park our cars in the garage, and I hope to build a small shead in the back yard for the mowers and such -- so that's 430sqft of space that's going to waste. Thanks again and take care --- Alex Garage doors lack insulation, but you can do something about that. I live in South Florida, and while it doesn't get as hot as in Texas, it does get hot. We added insulation to our metal garage door in the form of Styrofoam insulating panels slipped into the inside of the door ducktaped in place. Fiberglass insulation with the cardboard backing would work as well. (Which has the better R value??). You might have to re-balance the door after adding the insulation, but in our case the garage door opener didn't seem to care and isn't straining. The insulation lowered the temperature in the garage during the summer by at least 10 degrees F. |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
Garage doors lack insulation, but you can do something about that.
I live in South Florida, and while it doesn't get as hot as in Texas, it does get hot. We added insulation to our metal garage door in the form of Styrofoam insulating panels slipped into the inside of the door ducktaped in place. Fiberglass insulation with the cardboard backing would work as well. (Which has the better R value??). You might have to re-balance the door after adding the insulation, but in our case the garage door opener didn't seem to care and isn't straining. The insulation lowered the temperature in the garage during the summer by at least 10 degrees F. ================================ Normally this would be OT in this NG ,but mentioning styrofoam = polystyrene , it is veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery flammable and if used in an enclosed environment ,people inside would be in real trouble when a fire broke out. Insulating material should be fireproof or at least flame retardent while not emitting toxic/suffocating fumes. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
Highland Ham wrote: Garage doors lack insulation, but you can do something about that. I live in South Florida, and while it doesn't get as hot as in Texas, it does get hot. We added insulation to our metal garage door in the form of Styrofoam insulating panels slipped into the inside of the door ducktaped in place. Fiberglass insulation with the cardboard backing would work as well. (Which has the better R value??). You might have to re-balance the door after adding the insulation, but in our case the garage door opener didn't seem to care and isn't straining. The insulation lowered the temperature in the garage during the summer by at least 10 degrees F. ================================ Normally this would be OT in this NG ,but mentioning styrofoam = polystyrene , it is veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery flammable and if used in an enclosed environment ,people inside would be in real trouble when a fire broke out. Insulating material should be fireproof or at least flame retardent while not emitting toxic/suffocating fumes. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH Andy comments: My garage door is of the insulated type. It has some sort of fiberglass stuff like you get in those 4x2 ceiling tiles.... It is redundant and I think more of a sales gimmick than any real barrier to heat transfer..... Regarding roll around air conditioners..... I like the idea a lot, but they are very very very expensive compared to a vanilla window unit.... Home Depot sells a window unit here for about $80 USD while the cheapest roll around I have seen is over $300 USD for about the same size.... A crafty ham would buy a window unit and then build a little roll around cabinet with some dryer vent hoses to make his own. After all, most of the fun is building stuff, even if it doesn't look like a "finished" product..... ( I am a big fan of The Red Green Show :)))) ) I am doing something like that in my attic ---- running the intake duct from the cooler garage below and the air exits into the attic, which is already hot so a little more heat won't matter..... Not a roll around, but a ducted cabinet....... But then I have nothing better to do all day except to mess around with this stuff .... probly not a great idea for everybody, tho. I go thru a lot of duct tape.......... Just my dos centavos..... Andy in Eureka, Texas W4OAH |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
On 30 Jun 2006 17:20:16 -0700, "AndyS" wrote:
Here is a suggestion that you might consider.... Wall off a closet sized part of your garage, either with cheap panelling or maybe plastic curtains, and get a Home Depot $70 air conditioner to use just for that part..... Also good for space heater in winter.... Isolating a small volume from the garage makes sense since now the thermal resistance of the external wall and the closet walls are in series, thus reducing the heat leakage from the outside to the operating position and hence, reducing the heat that needs to be removed by the air conditioner. Since the closet walls are much smaller than the garage wall inside dimensions, for a specific amount of isolation material (and cost) much better isolation can be obtained by isolating the closet than isolating the whole garage. Perhaps you can make sliding curtains like they do around hospital beds..... A little 5000 BTU unit will cool the hell out of a small closet-like area, even if it is poorly insulated and leaks like hell.... The air condx can be mounted on a little dolly or something......venting into the rest of the garage. And slid off on the side when not in use... Venting into the rest of the garage does not make sense, especially with light closet walls, since this would be equivalent to an electric or acoustic short circuit. If you look at the situation from the rest of the garage, the heat from the closet will enter the larger garage space, as well as the power required to run the air conditioner, as well as the leakage from the outside world through the garage walls. The rest of the garage will get very hot and if the closet walls are light, leak back into the closet, requiring more air conditioner power to remove it etc. The temperature of the rest of the garage will continue to rise, until the temperature is sufficiently _above_ the outside temperature and sufficient amount of thermal energy will flow _out_ through the garage external walls. Two ways to avoid this problem, one is to let the closet air conditioner pump the heat to the outside air or if the heat is pumped into the rest of the garage, at least open the garage door and use sufficiently good isolation in the closet walls to keep the air conditional power requirements at a reasonable level. After all, air conditioning is a similar problem as thermal management in any semiconductor systems, which use the analogies with resistances/conductances (thermal isolation/conduction) and capacitances (specific heat x mass). Paul OH3LWR |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
Highland Ham wrote:
Garage doors lack insulation, but you can do something about that. I live in South Florida, and while it doesn't get as hot as in Texas, it does get hot. We added insulation to our metal garage door in the form of Styrofoam insulating panels slipped into the inside of the door ducktaped in place. Fiberglass insulation with the cardboard backing would work as well. (Which has the better R value??). You might have to re-balance the door after adding the insulation, but in our case the garage door opener didn't seem to care and isn't straining. The insulation lowered the temperature in the garage during the summer by at least 10 degrees F. ================================ Normally this would be OT in this NG ,but mentioning styrofoam = polystyrene , it is veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery flammable and if used in an enclosed environment ,people inside would be in real trouble when a fire broke out. Insulating material should be fireproof or at least flame retardent while not emitting toxic/suffocating fumes. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH Styrofoam type insulating material that is designed for the purpose is made in a fire-retardant form. You have to buy the material made for the purpose!!! |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
Paul Keinanen wrote: The rest of the garage will get very hot and if the closet walls are light, leak back into the closet, requiring more air conditioner power to remove it etc. The temperature of the rest of the garage will continue to rise, until the temperature is sufficiently _above_ the outside temperature and sufficient amount of thermal energy will flow _out_ through the garage external walls. ******* I am assuming the operator will put the garage door up in the summer and down in the winter..... This ain't rocket surgery.... Two ways to avoid this problem, one is to let the closet air conditioner pump the heat to the outside air or if the heat is pumped into the rest of the garage, at least open the garage door and use sufficiently good isolation in the closet walls to keep the air conditional power requirements at a reasonable level. *** Ahhh,... I see the idea occurred to you, also........ I know that the OP doesn't want to knock holes in his garage wall for a vent, otherwise he would have just put it in a window or access door and not bothered to post here for our whacko solutions ... :)))) After all, air conditioning is a similar problem as thermal management in any semiconductor systems, which use the analogies with resistances/conductances (thermal isolation/conduction) and capacitances (specific heat x mass). ***** Wow !! I am still reeling from the concept of a $80 air conditioner being used in the same sentence as : " the analogies with resistances/conductances (thermal isolation/conduction) " Whew !! Maybe this IS rocket surgery !!! :)))))) Andy W40AH ( LPE ( licensed professional engineer ) ) |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
I spent several years in my teens using my dad's Heathkit SB-102 rig out in
the garage in Fort Worth. Yes, it does get hot around here during the summer, make no mistake about it. I'm a night owl by nature, and I can't count how many times I worked DX until the sun came up. Pros and Cons: * Keep the garage door open, and open the back door as well to let air flow through. Cheap, but effective only during the day. At night, june bugs and other critters are attracted by the interior lights and will make life miserable for you. (I'll never forget one on-air conversation when a june bug flew right down my shirt. "WHAAAAUUUGH!!!") These days, unfortunately, it's not wise to leave your garage door open unattended because some *@#$ might come in and steal all of your power tools. (Bitter experience.) Or worse. * Our garage had a VERY good wall-mounted air conditioner. It worked beautifully, even during the long, crushingly hot summer of 1980. In fact, it saved my parents' bacon when the house's main A/C unit failed and it took a couple of days to get it fixed. Mom & Dad just backed the car out of the garage, plopped down a mattress, turned on the wall-mounted A/C, and slept in cool comfort. [I'm sure Dad woke up each morning wondering, "What did she do to the bedroom now?"] Nice backup to have. I could work 40 meters all night long without worrying about the heat or the bugs. * The garage also served as a nice workshop, complete with parts cabinets, two workbenches, and lots of tools. Easy to try out new RF circuits quickly. I like the tornado-shelter idea. It's smaller and easier to keep cool. Also easier to secure valuable equipiment. |
Using Garage for Ham Shack
"Alex" wrote in message oups.com... If you are set on the garage, the insulated door will do wonders. I replaced my old wooden door with plenty of holes and spider access, and it was the best thing I ever did lately!! I can work in the garage with a couple of fans running. It can get cold here in western NC, but in fairness I must mention that my garage and shack is downstairs and partially underground. Another suggestion to consider is one I used in a previous house: a spare closet! I put a desk in the closet with a hutch. There was enough room for all the radios, and when I was thru radio-ing, I could push the chair inside the closet and close the bi-fold doors! No one was the wiser!! People could come visit us in the den and never know there was a fully stocked radio room on the premises! My wife always joked about putting me in the basement, the dog house, or a closet. Now it was TRUE! :) 73 Jerry |
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