Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/25/2011 11:35 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
There is, of course, a "two-hundred pound gorilla" in the room: fuel
costs are usually minor compared to the cost of spoiled food, frozen
pipes, etc., so let me reassure everyone that I'm not looking for a
tiny difference. I'm just worried about getting a $1,000 gas bill if I
run a natural-gas powered generator for a week: we're not in need of a
fine-grained analysis here.

Ok, first off, an assumption. I'll go with the numbers I know.
My Honda EX4500S takes roughly 1 gallon / hour.
1 week = 168 hours.
168 hours x $3.50/gallon = $588.00

I stumbled across a "Cost of heating" chart, and I'm going to
assume that the relative fuel costs for heating would be similar.
So...

Gasoline = $588
Diesel = $620
Natural Gas = $582
Propane = $536
Electricity = $90

The differences are fairly small compared to one another. The real
problem is the apparent 15% efficiency of running a generator vs
using the wall outlet.

Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/25/2011 11:09 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
It pays to check: I looked at a Briggs and Stratton 7KW unit that runs
on propane, and was astonished to see a noise rating of 72 db. The unit
is completely enclosed, and is intended for permanent installation, so
it boggles my mind that anyone would buy one unless they intend to have
a sound-dampening enclosure built around it after the installation.

Yuppers, remember when I said build a fake BBQ unit to enclose things?

Again, the Honda EX4500S I have is rated at less than 52 dB. That's
moderately quiet and I find it easy to ignore.

Roughly, the Empire 12 KW genset with the Wisconsin VF4D engine was
not much noisier with an automotive muffler attached to it.

Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/26/2011 2:28 AM, Jeffrey Angus wrote:
On 11/25/2011 11:35 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
There is, of course, a "two-hundred pound gorilla" in the room: fuel
costs are usually minor compared to the cost of spoiled food, frozen
pipes, etc., so let me reassure everyone that I'm not looking for a
tiny difference. I'm just worried about getting a $1,000 gas bill if I
run a natural-gas powered generator for a week: we're not in need of a
fine-grained analysis here.

Ok, first off, an assumption. I'll go with the numbers I know.
My Honda EX4500S takes roughly 1 gallon / hour.
1 week = 168 hours.
168 hours x $3.50/gallon = $588.00

I stumbled across a "Cost of heating" chart, and I'm going to
assume that the relative fuel costs for heating would be similar.
So...

Gasoline = $588
Diesel = $620
Natural Gas = $582
Propane = $536
Electricity = $90

The differences are fairly small compared to one another. The real
problem is the apparent 15% efficiency of running a generator vs
using the wall outlet.

Jeff,

Thanks for the info. That's a good comparison.

Now what I need is information about the /reliability/ of the various
products and models. What /really/ scares me is the chance of finding
out that I bought a "light duty" engine that has just thrown a rod in
the middle of Field Day. Does anyone have a side-by-side
comparison of the various makes and models, along with a "plain
English" explanation of what code words like "emergency service"
mean?

TIA.

73,

Bill, W1AC

--
Bill Horne
(Remove QRM from my address to write to me directly)

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/26/2011 10:29 AM, Bill Horne wrote:
Thanks for the info. That's a good comparison.

Now what I need is information about the /reliability/ of the various
products and models. What /really/ scares me is the chance of finding
out that I bought a "light duty" engine that has just thrown a rod in
the middle of Field Day. Does anyone have a side-by-side
comparison of the various makes and models, along with a "plain
English" explanation of what code words like "emergency service"
mean?

That takes a bit of digging and interpretation.

Simply put though, All 5000 watt generators claim to put
out 5000 watts. Most will say "Peak" NOT "continuous."

Secondly, check the physical HP size of the motor they
use for said "continuous" output.

As an example... Three generators rated at 5000 watts.

Brand X 4000 watts continuous. 8 HP

Brand Y 4500 watts continuous. 10 HP

Brand Z 3500 watts continuous. 7 HP

I would go with Brand Y. Brand X has a smaller engine so
it's going to work harder, even at 4000 watts, and Brand
Z is just an engine failure waiting to happen.

"Emergency Service" either means it's a reliable set up,
or it's marketing speak for unreliable. It can also mean
the engine/generator isn't really designed for continuous
duty. Which is kind of silly considering that in the event
of an emergency, you NEED to run the stuff continuously.


Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/25/2011 11:50 PM, Bill Horne wrote:

OB Ham Radio: dogs used for Search-and-Rescue and crowd-control can
cause problems with Emcom, since some hams aren't qualified to be around
them. This goes back to the issue of training prior to deployment: if
you're not comfortable around dogs, search-and-rescue may be a problem
for you.

73,

Bill, W1AC

Never even thought about that.. But as for being comfortable around
dogs.. Well.. I've been bit twice,,, Neither time serious, one time was
actually an accident and my fault. I am very comfortable around dogs.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
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Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/26/2011 12:09 AM, Bill Horne wrote:

What I want is a tri-fuel unit that will run on propane, diesel, or gas,
which has a sound rating below 60 db, which runs eight hours between
refuelings, and which costs less than $700. It's like the old joke from
the System Administrators: "'No bugs', 'Meets spec', 'On deadline': pick
two".

73,

Bill, W1AC


Finding one that runs on Gas, Diesel or Propane is going to be a
problem. Gas/Propane yes, Those/Diesel, not so easy.
--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
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Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4647 - Release Date: 11/29/11

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/29/2011 7:51 PM, John Davis wrote:
On 11/26/2011 12:09 AM, Bill Horne wrote:

What I want is a tri-fuel unit that will run on propane, diesel, or gas,
which has a sound rating below 60 db, which runs eight hours between
refuelings, and which costs less than $700. It's like the old joke from
the System Administrators: "'No bugs', 'Meets spec', 'On deadline': pick
two".

Finding one that runs on Gas, Diesel or Propane is going to be a
problem. Gas/Propane yes, Those/Diesel, not so easy.

Right now, I'd settle for any genset that won't break my budget and will
serve the purpose for three years. I was, of course, joking, but it
really does seem to be "Pick two": reliability and price come at the
expense of noise, etc.

For now, I'm looking around and hoping for an overstock sale that gets
me past my point of pain.

Bill, W1AC

--
Bill Horne
(Remove QRM from my address to write to me directly)

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/29/2011 9:27 PM, Bill Horne wrote:

Right now, I'd settle for any genset that won't break my budget
and will serve the purpose for three years.

I would suggest the Honda "really quiet" series and then size it
at the minimum requirement for the heaviest load (by itself) then
select what runs at any given time instead of that.

(This is based on the serious bugaboo of cost/hour for fuel.)

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/29/2011 10:37 PM, Jeffrey Angus wrote:
On 11/29/2011 9:27 PM, Bill Horne wrote:

Right now, I'd settle for any genset that won't break my budget
and will serve the purpose for three years.

I would suggest the Honda "really quiet" series and then size it
at the minimum requirement for the heaviest load (by itself) then
select what runs at any given time instead of that.

(This is based on the serious bugaboo of cost/hour for fuel.)

Fuel costs aren't cheap, but that's less of a factor than you
might think: after all, when the power /is/ out, the cost of
fuel is balanced against the chance of freezing pipes or
spoiled food. Plus, frankly, there's more than a little bit
of "lookit me" factor: during the recent outage, even though
I was making do with a tiny 2KW set, the XYL was more than
happy that /her/ lights were on when everyone else's
were out.

Fuel consumption figures for gasoline gensets range from
0.5 gal/hour up to 1 gal/hour for the range of sets I'm
looking at: not cheap, but not a deal-breaker either[1].
Natural gas would run about $1/hour for my area, but the
gensets I've seen which will run on that fuel have
extraordinarily high noise ratings: one is 84 dba at
23 feet away!

This whole exercise reminds me of a public debate about
the appropriate size of a breakwater for a seaside
community: a Category-5 hurricane is "maybe", and
"someday", but the cost of cement is /right/ /now/.
The hardest part is figuring out how likely a power
failure is, and whether it is likely to last long
enough to cause a major loss.

73,

Bill, W1AC

1. If anyone knows how to get "off road" gasoline, where
the price doesn't include road taxes, please tell me. They
have "off road" diesel fuel, but I don't know about gas.

--
Bill Horne
(Remove QRM from my address to write to me directly)

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/29/2011 11:19 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
Plus, frankly, there's more than a little bit
of "lookit me" factor: during the recent outage, even though
I was making do with a tiny 2KW set, the XYL was more than
happy that /her/ lights were on when everyone else's
were out.

Back in Culver City living with a friend. We had a short power
outage at their place. Christmas eve.

I fired up the EX4500S generator with the transfer switch
and lit up all 750 watts of Christmas lights around the
house.

We were the ONLY Christmas lights you could see for a mile
in any direction.

Yes, that definitely won me some "Atta-boy" points.

Also, the costs of transfer switches being what they are, Bill
sent me a WONDERFUL link of an innovative kit for retro-fitting
your existing service panel.

I have to spread this one around.

http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm

Also, check the links section for some very good information on
not killing yourself or your utility workers.

Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 00:19:41 EST, Bill Horne
wrote:

1. If anyone knows how to get "off road" gasoline, where
the price doesn't include road taxes, please tell me. They
have "off road" diesel fuel, but I don't know about gas.

You buy the gasoline with the road taxes, and apply for a rebate.
The USA Internal Revenue has a form for it:
http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f4136.pdf
USA states have their own rebate programs. Search Google for
"Fuel Rebate your state name"

Dick Grady, AC7EL

Scotty, I need more power
 

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 00:39:59 EST, Jeffrey Angus
wrote:

We were the ONLY Christmas lights you could see for a mile
in any direction.

Yes, that definitely won me some "Atta-boy" points.

While the rest of the common folk froze in the dark.....
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/30/2011 2:11 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
While the rest of the common folk froze in the dark.....

Yes, as my ex-mother in law used to say:
"Go, have a good time. I'll just sit in the dark and starve."

Jeff


--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.
The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from
eBay". Worth reading.
http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm
Another example of getting what you pay for.

David, ex-W8EZE

--
David Ryeburn

To send e-mail, change "netz" to "net"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 12/8/2011 5:36 AM, David Ryeburn wrote:
This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.
The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from
eBay". Worth reading.
http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm
Another example of getting what you pay for.

Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:

"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances
of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor
to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."

.... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

73,

Bill, W1AC

--
Bill Horne
(Remove QRM from my address to write to me directly)

Scotty, I need more power
 

In article , Bill Horne
wrote:

Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:

"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances
of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor
to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."

... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

I don't know. Maybe they do things differently in Australia from the way
they do things in the USA and Canada. You could ask him.

David, ex-W8EZE

--
David Ryeburn

To send e-mail, change "netz" to "net"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 12/9/2011 12:37 AM, Bill Horne wrote:
... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

Actually, the Neutral is supposed to be bonded to ground at the panel.
It's just NOT supposed to be tied to ground anywhere else.

Jeff


--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/29/2011 10:27 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
On 11/29/2011 7:51 PM, John Davis wrote:
On 11/26/2011 12:09 AM, Bill Horne wrote:

What I want is a tri-fuel unit that will run on propane, diesel, or gas,
which has a sound rating below 60 db, which runs eight hours between
refuelings, and which costs less than $700. It's like the old joke from
the System Administrators: "'No bugs', 'Meets spec', 'On deadline': pick
two".

Finding one that runs on Gas, Diesel or Propane is going to be a
problem. Gas/Propane yes, Those/Diesel, not so easy.

Right now, I'd settle for any genset that won't break my budget and will
serve the purpose for three years. I was, of course, joking, but it
really does seem to be "Pick two": reliability and price come at the
expense of noise, etc.

For now, I'm looking around and hoping for an overstock sale that gets
me past my point of pain.

Bill, W1AC


Well the reason you find "Gas/Propane" or Disel is that the technology
is about 50% different, and the 50% that is the same is also different.

Same: Both use pistons in cylinders or sleeves containing explosions fo
fuel air to cause a crankshaft to turn.. Both use some kind fo cooling
system.

Different: How the fuel and air mix, How it is ignighted and How much
compression.

But with Gas/Propane.. All that changes is how they mix, Dual carbs
answers that.

Not break your budget.. There are a bunch of low cost SMALL generators,
I recently got some info on a Honeywell 2-cycle Inverter job that as I
recall was under 100 bucks for a 1000 watt unit.

However it does not scale up.. You need more watts. the price goes way
up. And I'd really prefer a 4-stroke engine.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/30/2011 12:19 AM, Bill Horne wrote:


1. If anyone knows how to get "off road" gasoline, where
the price doesn't include road taxes, please tell me. They
have "off road" diesel fuel, but I don't know about gas.



If you are buying in BULK, call the local fuel supplier.

If you use more than a few gallons a year, You file for a refund on your
state income tax.
--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 11/30/2011 12:39 AM, Jeffrey Angus wrote:
On 11/29/2011 11:19 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
Plus, frankly, there's more than a little bit
of "lookit me" factor: during the recent outage, even though
I was making do with a tiny 2KW set, the XYL was more than
happy that /her/ lights were on when everyone else's
were out.

Back in Culver City living with a friend. We had a short power
outage at their place. Christmas eve.

I fired up the EX4500S generator with the transfer switch
and lit up all 750 watts of Christmas lights around the
house.

We were the ONLY Christmas lights you could see for a mile
in any direction.

Yes, that definitely won me some "Atta-boy" points.

Also, the costs of transfer switches being what they are, Bill
sent me a WONDERFUL link of an innovative kit for retro-fitting
your existing service panel.

I have to spread this one around.

http://www.interlockkit.com/intro2.htm

Also, check the links section for some very good information on
not killing yourself or your utility workers.

Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi


Though that is a good system.. I really like switches in a seperate
box... I can see how the lock out plate could come loose, or get bent,
or otherwise "Disabled" and you could end up with both generator and
mains connected to the mutual detrement of both.

The switch box I used (A UL approved Transfer switch) that is simply NOT
possible.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

Scotty, I need more power
 

On 12/9/2011 1:37 AM, Bill Horne wrote:
On 12/8/2011 5:36 AM, David Ryeburn wrote:
This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.
The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from
eBay". Worth reading.
http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm
Another example of getting what you pay for.

Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:

"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances
of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor
to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."

... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

73,

Bill, W1AC

By code Neutral and Ground are bonded in the main service entrance box.

I have heard folks tell of portable generators where that is supposed to
"Cause Problems" however any portable generator or fixed generator
designed to supply power to a stick-build house.. Has got to be able to
deal with that.. Since many times a Generator transfer switch (Every one
I've seen) leaves neutral and ground bonded, and in fact cross
connected.. Only the "HOT" (L-1, L-2) Leads are switched.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

Scotty, I need more power
 

In article ,

John Davis wrote:



On 12/9/2011 1:37 AM, Bill Horne wrote:

On 12/8/2011 5:36 AM, David Ryeburn wrote:

This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.

The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from

eBay". Worth reading.

http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm

Another example of getting what you pay for.



Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:



"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances

of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor

to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."



... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author

is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and

ground leads separate.



73,



Bill, W1AC



By code Neutral and Ground are bonded in the main service entrance box.



I have heard folks tell of portable generators where that is supposed to

"Cause Problems" however any portable generator or fixed generator

designed to supply power to a stick-build house.. Has got to be able to

deal with that.. Since many times a Generator transfer switch (Every one

I've seen) leaves neutral and ground bonded, and in fact cross

connected.. Only the "HOT" (L-1, L-2) Leads are switched.



Actually, the NEC is very jumbled about exactly how this is supposed to

be setup. Mast Electrical Inspectors, and MANY Electrical Engineers,

still do NOT understand this area of the NEC as Published and Amended,

and it still isn't well understood, even with all the changes and

enhancements over then last TWO Decades. There are TWO basic Definitions

that MUST be understood BEFORE one can effectively communicate, about

the Neutral/Ground Bonding, REQUIREMENTS of the NEC.



1. Separately Derived Power Source

2. Portable Power Source



Once those are understood, then one can have a conversation about how

each can be connected to a Grid Tied Electrical Distribution System,

using a NEC REQUIRED and Approved Power Transfer System.



This section of the NEC is a relatively late addition to the Code, and

mostly was ignored before the Y2K Upgrades for Backup Power Systems. Now

with the number of Backup Power systems installations growing

exponentially, it is getting some PLAY, in the Inspection, and

Engineering, ends of the electrical world. there are some really good

explanations published over in the Generator and Motor Forums on

www.smokstak.com, as well as a good bunch of Resident SmartGuys, that

have MAN-Years of Professional Experience, in the Backup Power

Generation field. Just say'en.... This is NOT for the uninitiated, as

even many of those folks that should know and understand this stuff,

clearly do NOT.... YMMV....



--

Bruce in Alaska add path before the @ for email

Scotty, I need more power
 

On Dec 9, 10:37 pm, John Davis wrote:
On 12/9/2011 1:37 AM, Bill Horne wrote:







On 12/8/2011 5:36 AM, David Ryeburn wrote:
This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.
The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from
eBay". Worth reading.
http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm
Another example of getting what you pay for.

Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:

"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances
of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor
to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."

... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

73,

Bill, W1AC

By code Neutral and Ground are bonded in the main service entrance box.

I have heard folks tell of portable generators where that is supposed to
"Cause Problems" however any portable generator or fixed generator
designed to supply power to a stick-build house.. Has got to be able to
deal with that.. Since many times a Generator transfer switch (Every one
I've seen) leaves neutral and ground bonded, and in fact cross
connected.. Only the "HOT" (L-1, L-2) Leads are switched.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

If the generator is dedicated to backup service, is located outdoors
or in another building, and the utility supply system is Multi
Grounded Neutral (MGN) then the neutral should be bonded to the fame
and to all of the available grounding electrodes required by the
electrical code in use in that locality in the same way a utility
transformer has the neutral bonded to the case and to ground. On new
installations done in an area that is governed by the National
Electric Code (NEC) here in the USA the connection to the building
should include all of the ungrounded conductors, the neutral
conductor, and an Equipment Grounding Conductor that is sized to the
generators overcurrent protective device ampacity. Additionally the
transfer switch should have a sufficient number of poles to transfer
the Neutral Conductor from the utility connection to the generator
with the connection to the utility side of the switch made on the load
side of the "Main Bonding Jumper." I don't know if Multi Grounded
Neutral electrical distribution is used outside of North America so
use extreme caution before applying these techniques elsewhere in the
world. When a portable generator is being used with a cord and plug
connection to the transfer mechanism's generator terminals than it is
not considered necessary to isolate the frame of the generator from
the neutral conductor. If you leave the generator plugged into such
an arrangement most of the time you would be well advised to set it up
with a bonding switch so that it can be closed when in portable use
and open when in standby use. If it is bonded in standby use then it
is a bond on the neutral of the buildings wiring on the load side of
the "Service Disconnecting Means" that is expressly forbidden by the
NEC.

--
Tom Horne

Scotty, I need more power
 

On Dec 9, 10:37 pm, John Davis wrote:
On 12/9/2011 1:37 AM, Bill Horne wrote:







On 12/8/2011 5:36 AM, David Ryeburn wrote:
This evening I checked the blog of VK1OD, which is always interesting.
The most recent posting there is "A medium priced generator set from
eBay". Worth reading.
http://www.vk1od.net/hardware/genset/index.htm
Another example of getting what you pay for.

Thanks for the link. One part caught my eye:

"Since this generator will be used with multiple appliances
of Class II, the neutral was bonded to the earth conductor
to allow the effective use of a portable RCD device."

... and I'm curious why that would be necessary. Of course, the author
is using 240 Volt, 50 Hz power, but I thought everyone kept neutral and
ground leads separate.

73,

Bill, W1AC

By code Neutral and Ground are bonded in the main service entrance box.

I have heard folks tell of portable generators where that is supposed to
"Cause Problems" however any portable generator or fixed generator
designed to supply power to a stick-build house.. Has got to be able to
deal with that.. Since many times a Generator transfer switch (Every one
I've seen) leaves neutral and ground bonded, and in fact cross
connected.. Only the "HOT" (L-1, L-2) Leads are switched.

--
Nothing adds Excitement like something that is none of your business.

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4669 - Release Date: 12/09/11

The situation that would cause the biggest problem is for the
generators neutral to ground bond becoming the return path to the
utility transformer for fault current or the neutral current should an
open neutral occur between the public utilities transformer and the
Service Disconnecting Means. In either case the wiring between the
transfer mechanism and the generator is unlikely to be capable of
safely carrying the current that would be imposed on it. Since that
wiring will usually be only large enough to carry the generators
output, rather than the Neutral current during Utility operation, if
the generator neutral is not transferred or not bonded to the
Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) and the Grounding Electrode
Conductors (EGC), if any, at the generator then the wiring from the
generator to the transfer mechanism would die an ignoble death while
trying to carry a current that is much too large for the size of
conductors in the circuit. With a portable generator you simply
unplug the generator from the wiring that connects it to the transfer
mechanism thus breaking the connection through the under ampacity
wiring of the generator circuit. With an optional standby generator
that will normally remain connected to the transfer mechanism it is
important to remove any bonding jumper between the generator neutral
and the frame of the generator or to have a transfer mechanism that
will transfer the neutral at the same time it transfers the ungrounded
current carrying conductors. Either arrangement will break the path
that fault or neutral current would take through the undersized
generator wiring during utility operation.

--
Tom Horne