bpnjensen wrote:
Ron Hardin wrote:
The ANC-4 works on MW, whereas you have to remove filter from the
MFJ to do that.

To be very clear, the MFJ *does* work on MW even with the filter, when
your goal is to remove noise. What the MFJ also does, because of the
filter, is to attentuate the MW freqs, which may not be desirable. I
do not do a lot of MW, but when I do, the MFJ is also effective at
nipping the offending MW stations to get at the weaker ones underneath.

It's a shame that MFJ didn't design the circuit to allow the filter to
be switched in when required. I'm in the southern part of Edmonton and
that just happens to be the locale for most of the MW transmitters
around here. I do get some bleed over into a few of the shortwave
frequencies.


Count on working with 2 real antennas, not the fake noise stub one.
You'll find it much more versatile.

Agreed. It really helps if the two antennas are equivalent in terms of
ability to "hear" noise. A wire may not be the same as a Wellbrook,
consideirng their significant design differences.

I will say, though, that the little stub antenna on the MFJ was fairly
effective as a noise antenna in the 60-m band. That may have been a
fluke of the local RFI situation.

The stub works well enough for most local noise. If you want to null out
a distant MW station then it's time for an outdoor antenna.


I have 7 ANC-4's and no MFJ's, on 8 antennas, 2 of them Wellbrook
ALA1530's.

Chief complaint is that the pots get scratchy pretty quick,
because scratchiness is in effect amplified by the null depth ;
fixed with a squirt of deoxit in the 2 tiny holes at the bottom of
each pot (careful you don't get any in your eyes).

This fix works on the MFJ as well. Squirt and twist a few times and
you're set.

Second complaint is that the circuit really needs a bandspread pot
on the phase, as you're into really tiny tiny adjustments at the
bottom of a deep null.

That would be nice on the MFJ as well. One other issue is that so much
of the noise seems to null at the very same place on the pot's
rotation, and that portion of the pot gets scratchy fast.

Do you have the mod that allows for swapping the antenna inputs? This
will help with achieving nulls.

Bruce Jensen

This would be chiefly from taking out a local broadcaster to hear
the broadcaster under him.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.



JB

John Barnard wrote:

Do you have the mod that allows for swapping the antenna inputs? This
will help with achieving nulls.

I haven't yet had the guts to attempt this, simple as it is. To say I
am klutz with a soldering iron would be understating it badly. Also,
it sounds as though it is useful to use coax cable internally to
provide the electrical hookups, and I have not yet figured out the
optimum way to do this (a *good* picture would help immensely!).

Otherwise, it sounds like it requires just a simple DPDT toggle or
similar switch mounted somewhere, with the two antenna leads attached
to each pole at one end, criss - crossed to the other end, and with the
two main/aux leads connected to the middle posts respectively - is that
about it? There is no need to do any ground connections, since the
whole chassis is grounded...

How hard can that be? ;-)

Bruce Jensen

bpnjensen wrote:
John Barnard wrote:

Do you have the mod that allows for swapping the antenna inputs? This
will help with achieving nulls.

I haven't yet had the guts to attempt this, simple as it is. To say I
am klutz with a soldering iron would be understating it badly. Also,
it sounds as though it is useful to use coax cable internally to
provide the electrical hookups, and I have not yet figured out the
optimum way to do this (a *good* picture would help immensely!).

Sorry that I haven't gotten back sooner to you on this. I'm in the
process of getting a digicam capable of taking very good macro photos
and will be able to email you photos of the mod to swap inputs.


Otherwise, it sounds like it requires just a simple DPDT toggle or
similar switch mounted somewhere, with the two antenna leads attached
to each pole at one end, criss - crossed to the other end, and with the
two main/aux leads connected to the middle posts respectively - is that
about it? There is no need to do any ground connections, since the
whole chassis is grounded...

That's sums it up nicely!


How hard can that be? ;-)

You've mentioned your soldering skills but how well do you handle a
drill? ;-)


Bruce Jensen



John Barnard

Get some scrap wire and a soldering kit and practice soldering.Your
libraries probally has some books on soldering.Or look it up on the
internet.
cuhulin

wrote:

Get some scrap wire and a soldering kit and practice soldering.Your
libraries probally has some books on soldering.Or look it up on the
internet.
cuhulin

There's soldering and soldering. What worked for Heathkits doesn't
work for motherboards.

I opened up an audio mixer to install an option and couldn't even
see the trace I was supposed to cut.

Today things are fragile and small.

The (new) dog ate the 1/8" plug off a speaker, and stripping the wire
revealed enameled red, green and ground braids, each wound on top of
synthetic cord ; try soldering those babies to anything. Fortunately
the speaker also has an alternate input jack, so it isn't junk.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

John Barnard wrote:

Sorry that I haven't gotten back sooner to you on this. I'm in the
process of getting a digicam capable of taking very good macro photos
and will be able to email you photos of the mod to swap inputs.

Thanks, John, that might be very helpful...

You've mentioned your soldering skills but how well do you handle a
drill? ;-)

Well, since I tried to mount some hinges on a cabinet about two years
ago, I have two extra sets of nostrils...

Bruce Jensen