On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:



QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?

25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

David wrote:
On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:



QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?

I wouldn't use stranded wire. (despite what the naysayers might say) I
would use good old bare naked (non insulated) steel wire.
cuhulin

HFguy wrote:
David wrote:
On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:



QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?


Wirenuts with a synthetic grease always worked for me. I"ve seen
solder jobs potted in silicone. There are a number of solutions to that
kind of a problem.

I recently had the opportunity to drive through one of the
neighborhoods of my distant past. I hadn't lived there since 66. The
house was still there, in a about the same shape as we'd left it. The
screen door on the front still had the number plate I'd made in Cub
Scouts...pressed quilted aluminum sheets in natural color with black
cursive digits framed with aluminum scroll.

The owners were gracious enough to give me a brief tour.

It hadn't really been changed much at all.

And hanging under the eave where my bedroom had been was the steel
wire antenna I had used for my Remco crystal set. It has been painted
over a couple of times, but the steel wire, the original plastic
insulators (stamped REMCO), were still there. Apparently in use by one
of the kids in the house.

Memories.


The connection to an outdoor steel wire is a lot less problematic than
it would appear.

D Peter Maus wrote:

HFguy wrote:

David wrote:

On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:

QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?

Wirenuts with a synthetic grease always worked for me. I"ve seen solder
jobs potted in silicone. There are a number of solutions to that kind of
a problem.

The connection to an outdoor steel wire is a lot less problematic than
it would appear.

I don't think I would trust anything less than a welded or brazed
connection over the long term.

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 02:46:56 GMT, HFguy wrote:

D Peter Maus wrote:

HFguy wrote:

David wrote:

On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:

QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?

Wirenuts with a synthetic grease always worked for me. I"ve seen solder
jobs potted in silicone. There are a number of solutions to that kind of
a problem.

The connection to an outdoor steel wire is a lot less problematic than
it would appear.

I don't think I would trust anything less than a welded or brazed
connection over the long term.

My Palomar MLB uses tinned stranded wire for the HiZ side and this
solders nicely to shiny steel. I then cover with 3M putty (aka CoAx
Seal) and some 33+. Excellent connection and quite windproof.

David wrote:
On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 02:46:56 GMT, HFguy wrote:


D Peter Maus wrote:


HFguy wrote:


David wrote:


On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:


QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?

Wirenuts with a synthetic grease always worked for me. I"ve seen solder
jobs potted in silicone. There are a number of solutions to that kind of
a problem.

The connection to an outdoor steel wire is a lot less problematic than
it would appear.

I don't think I would trust anything less than a welded or brazed
connection over the long term.


My Palomar MLB uses tinned stranded wire for the HiZ side and this
solders nicely to shiny steel. I then cover with 3M putty (aka CoAx
Seal) and some 33+. Excellent connection and quite windproof.

What kind of solder? Any special flux or paste used?

Solid steel wire.None of that sissy greasy kid stuff stranded ''wire''
for me.
cuhulin

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 03:54:17 GMT, HFguy wrote:

David wrote:
On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 02:46:56 GMT, HFguy wrote:


D Peter Maus wrote:


HFguy wrote:


David wrote:


On 22 Dec 2006 19:08:58 -0800, "RHF"
wrote:


QUESTION - What's Your Opinion "Antenna Wire" : Solid -or- Stranded ?


25 g steel wire from the hardware store is very strong. Braided
chandelier wire is also very nice.

How do you maintain a low resistance connection to steel wire which is
outside in the elements?

Wirenuts with a synthetic grease always worked for me. I"ve seen solder
jobs potted in silicone. There are a number of solutions to that kind of
a problem.

The connection to an outdoor steel wire is a lot less problematic than
it would appear.

I don't think I would trust anything less than a welded or brazed
connection over the long term.


My Palomar MLB uses tinned stranded wire for the HiZ side and this
solders nicely to shiny steel. I then cover with 3M putty (aka CoAx
Seal) and some 33+. Excellent connection and quite windproof.

What kind of solder? Any special flux or paste used?

No. Please read below and note that tin, lead and steel are adjacent
in the galvanic order:

''There is a direct relationship between various types of dissimilar
metals when they are mated. Some dissimliar metals, such as copper and
brass, when mated cause very little corrosion. There are other metals,
however, that react most harshly when matched. Zinc and brass, for
example, will cause corrosion with the zinc metal quickly breaking
down. If you wish to prevent galvanic corrosion the best means, of
course, is to use the same metal throughout your construction. If this
is not possible your next course of action would be to assemble
materials that have a close relationship on a galvanic metals table.
Here is a descending list of metals and their associated relationships
in order of the most "noble" or least active.


least active

gold

silver
silver solder
bronze
copper
brass
nickel (plating)

tin
lead
lead-tin solder
stainless steel
iron/steel

aluminum alloys
aluminum
zinc-galvanized steel

most active

zinc




When choosing materials you should try to pick a metal part made from
the type closest to the other metal parts you will be using as charted
on the above list. It is very important to consider EVERY part of your
antenna including clamps and washers. For example, if brass screws are
used to hold aluminum tubing in place they will cause a headache when
corrosion takes hold. The better choices would be either
stainless-steel screws to secure aluminum tubing or brass screws to
hold copper tubing.''

http://hometown.aol.com/haminfo/hammingout.html

Again, waterproof the joint.