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I suspected there are many people who lurk but will never post in a
public arena. After my experiences with a cyber-stalker I can understand their hesitance. A SWL in Scotland asked me about a comment I made regarding antennas in one of my RFI diatribes. Sorry for the delay, but I ran this past some friends of varying technical skill levels, to insure that first my answers are technically accurate, and as simple as I can get, while maintaining accuracy. Get the wood out to start the fire to burn me at. There are really only three types of HF antennas. Dipoles Loops Surface or Traveling wave. Of these, only the Traveling wave antenna relies on the earth below it for it't basic operation. Dipoles will be effected by the presence of the earth below them, but a dipole will operate just fine in free space. Loops are somewhat less effected by the earth, but they to will operate just fine in free space. A traveling wave antenna, beverage or 'long wire' relies on the soil below the elevated conductor. For most of us Beverages and true 'long wires' for anything below 30MHz isn't practical. We simply don't have the real estate needed to erect one. Loops are loops. Many people swear by them, but I have yet to be impressed. If you must have a loop investigate the WL1030 as it compares very well to the famed Wellbrook ALA1530. I owned a for a few weeks and in a head to head test with the WL1030 the WL1030 was always as good as or better then the ALA1530. The WL1030 specifies a hard to find Litz wire that shouldn't stop anyone. I tried the specified Litz wire and a solid and a stranded wire and I couldn't tell any difference. It is true that I didn't do extensive tests below MW. I am not into NDBs. The typical 50 to 100' random wire is barely a longwire antenna at 10M, but at 2M, 146, it is a true longwire. But it is also an extremely poor antenna at those frequencies. Now for the part that labels me a Apostate. The random wire antenna many of us use is a dipole in disguise. The elevated wire is the obvious element. The earth is the non obvious element. The earth is generally a very poor conductor and also has significant reactance. In locations that are very quiet RF wise, the random wire can be an excellent antenna. Since most SWLs are interested in signals that literally come from every direction, a random wire can be the best as in most efficient antenna for the money and effort. But very few of us live in such locations. They do exist. I am lucky enough to have a friend with a cabin deep in the Daniel Boone National forest. There are now power lines, telephone lines or anything but trees for at least a half mile. If you want power bring batteries or a genset. To get there you need a high clearance 4WD or horses. Or to be 18 and young and healthy. In that location I don't bother with complex antennas because they would be a complete waste of time. Since most of us live and listen in a location served by at least a power utility that supplies us those vital electrons, we will generally have to deal with much more noise then a remote location experiences. I have been lucky enough several times to experience widespread power outages during the winter, and the listening is a true joy. Of course one does get cold at night..... What many SWLs and hams refuse to accept is that dipole that is designed, or 'cut', for a specific frequency, say 10MHz will work far from the design frequency. Of course as you move away from the design frequency the electrical balance of the 'dipole' will suffer. An example. 10MHz has a wave length of 30M. So, ignoring end effects, each leg should be 7.5M, or ~29'. But this dipole will perform very well down to at least 540KHz. I once contracted to build a WWV antenna system for a laboratory's master clock. They supplied the receiver and I got paid to come up with a workable antenna. I used Pansonic RF2200 as my test receiver. And the dipole worked great. I oriented so Bolder CO was broadside, or on the main lobe. Just for grins tuned down expecting reception to abruptly stop at maybe 8MHz. I had excellent reception all the way down to 540KHz, WKRC in Cincinnati OH, about 100miles north of the antenna and way off the gain lobe. With 20' of coax life was good, This was a WINNER. However, at the receiver end of the coax, some 150' away, while WWV on 10, and 20 MHz were perfect, and WWV at 15 wasn't to bad, WWV at 5 and the MW band was a mix of noise. They called me in one night because they had to down the building power but had to keep the receiver clock and 2 experiments "on line". I installed a power divider so I could use an auxiliary receiver for testing, so after we switched everything to battery power while the power utility changed a couple of transformers. Problems developed and the substation that fed the lab had to be powered down as well. There was nearly no equipment on in the lab. Very quiet RF wise. And guess what, the same antenna, feedline and power divider that before had only produced a horrible mix of RF noise below about 9MHz, suddenly was very quiet. I had quiet a time that night tuning around and I was amazed at how good the reception was. I should have caught on then and there just how important the general RF noise level around the antenna is. I missed a excellent chance to learn something useful to my hobby and put me several years ahead of the game. What I am leading up to is the radical thought that for many of us, the all too common random wire antenna is almost certainly a very poor antenna. By using the poorly conductive soil as part of your 'dipole' you are dooming yourself to noise problems. If the noise is around, you will receive it. People like DXace do a masterful job with a ~250' antenna and a simple ground rod. Most of us will need a much more sophisticated antenna and ground if we choose to use a random wire. Instead of a single 8' NEC ground rod, at a minimum you will need the 8' ground rod and a radial running back under the antenna to your home. Wellbrook shows one way to accomplish this.http://www.wellbrook.uk.com/longwire.html I disagree with his acceptance of 100' as a long wire for HF reception, but his diagram shows an excellent way to improve the antenna and to keep noise from within your home away from the antenna. I prefer to feed the antenna 50 to 100' away from the house, and to run it away from the home. And to run at least one, and if possible 3 wires under the antenna. A center wire with outriders about 6" out, and the 'radial' or 'counter poise' connected at each end and a 8' ground rod at each end. It is very useful to bury the coax at least 6" underground and 12" is even better. This helps choke off any common mode noise and may be effective enough that further RFI remediation is not needed. After years of messing around with a variety of antennas. The AmRad was a fair design and I was impressed to find out it was a poor clone of an antenna designed by Dallas Lankford. I have been impressed with all of Dallas's antennas. I have not used a random wire antenna for a year now and I am enjoying greatly improved reception. Check out http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/ dl.htm. I had great success with his 15' relay tuned antenna. I live too close to a couple of MW stations that drive most active antennas 'nuts'. All of Dallas's antennas worked fine, but I wanted a low power drain antenna. I am presently using his: http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Antennas/ Simplified%20Complementary%20Push-Pull%20Output%20Active%20Whip %20Antennas%20II.pdf and it is a very good antenna. The only issues I have are my trusty R2000 isn't quite up to the task, so I now use a Drake R8B. This antenna is almost a miracle. The parts won't break anyone's piggy bank and is not terribly complicated. Only by understanding how our antennas really work can we hope to minimize the noise we receive and maximize the desired signals. No antenna can said to be truly "noise reducing", but a good antenna, properly isolated from the noisy home, and by using a good feed line, we can at least not couple noise from our home into our antenna(s). To be completely accurate and fair, it must be noted that in the last year or so I have taken serious steps to eliminate RF noise at their sources. But tests performed at non radio friends whose homes have no RFI treatments and the Lankford Micro Active antenna works very well there also. For true weak signal DX be prepared to spend some time analyzing your home grown noise sources and plotting how to eliminate them. Terry |
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