On 1/24/10 11:55 , bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?


Without specifics on the nature of your RFI, I'd build the
transformer from the recommended materials, 43 or 77, and then build
frequency specific chokes to purpose. That way, if your RFI changes,
as it often can, you're solution is to built another choke, not to
revise your receiver's input.

Kevin makes a good point about the antenna trim control at the
input of DX-160. That covers a multitude of sins. Not unlike my
Nationals, similarly equipped.

That control showed up on DX-120, and was the reason I got
interested in this line in the first place. I couldn't afford one
until DX-150. Bought one of those, and have had two DX-160s since.
Fun radios. Not quite as selective as my S-40 and S-53 Halli's but
good for program listening on the big guys. DX-160 had less hum in
the audio, and came on immediately. After more than a decade of
tubes, by that time, I thought that was bitchin' cool. Just couldn't
justify the money at the time.

DX-160 has pretty lifeless audio. Not much above 6k, and bottom
rolled of below 150hz. You can bring a little life back to that
bottom end, by changing a couple of the capacitors. One in the audio
circuit, and one bringing the audio from the detector to the audio
stage. Which ones at this point, specifically, I don't recall, but I
think one is on a trace on the extreme right of the PCB. It's out
there by itself, easy to replace. The other is further inboard, near
the audio IC. But you can cut-and-try with a .5ufd or a .1 ufd film,
across the any of the likely candidates listening for a change. Can
make quite a difference. Although with the fact AGC, and the
generally poor audio stage, don't expect Little Jewel audio.

You can clean up the woolly audio by replacing all the ceramic
capacitors on the board with films. Better definition and clarity.
Small films will fit right in the ceramic positions, and by
selecting your components carefully, for things like thermal
coefficient, you can mitigate some of the drift. Not all, but some.

And DX-160 will drift.

Further cleaning can be achieved by replacing the electrolytics.
Not only in the power supply, but those dispersed throughout the
board. After all these years, some will have become, or have begun
to become unformed. Some my be distended, indicating impending
failure. Some may even leak. Simple replacement procedure.

Touching up the alignment will also help, and using WWV as a
frequency standard, you can do a creditable job calibrating dial
positions.

Lastly, the dial lights have decent, but not remarkably long
life. You can find drop-in LED replacements at Digi-Key, or
SuperbrightLeds.com. The warm whites look just like incandescents,
and last 100 times longer. You may have to add a small series
resistor to the dial light circuit to limit current to the LED
replacements. That's a small matter, and dramatically improves life
of the lamp without significantly altering lumen output.

Now, if you REALLY want to make this rig over, you can install
Murata filters in the IF's. But that may be a long reach for such a
simple receiver.





p

In article ,
bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

The different core type comes from the fact that Amidon is reselling stuff
from different manufacterers. I've used both 77 and J for transformers.
They're pretty much the same. Whatever was on the pegboard at the
(then existing) local shops. Seems to work best from 3-15 Mhz, if
you want to go for higher frequencies, like CB, try a higher frequency
(lower perm.) core.

Mark Zenier
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

On Jan 25, 6:27*am, "D. Peter Maus"
wrote:
On 1/24/10 11:55 , bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. *Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

* *Without specifics on the nature of your RFI, I'd build the
transformer from the recommended materials, 43 or 77, and then build
frequency specific chokes to purpose. That way, if your RFI changes,
as it often can, you're solution is to built another choke, not to
revise your receiver's input.

* *Kevin makes a good point about the antenna trim control at the
input of DX-160. That covers a multitude of sins. Not unlike my
Nationals, similarly equipped.

* *That control showed up on DX-120, and was the reason I got
interested in this line in the first place. I couldn't afford one
until DX-150. Bought one of those, and have had two DX-160s since.
Fun radios. Not quite as selective as my S-40 and S-53 Halli's but
good for program listening on the big guys. DX-160 had less hum in
the audio, and came on immediately. After more than a decade of
tubes, by that time, I thought that was bitchin' cool. Just couldn't
justify the money at the time.

* *DX-160 has pretty lifeless audio. Not much above 6k, and bottom
rolled of below 150hz. You can bring a little life back to that
bottom end, by changing a couple of the capacitors. One in the audio
circuit, and one bringing the audio from the detector to the audio
stage. Which ones at this point, specifically, I don't recall, but I
think one is on a trace on the extreme right of the PCB. It's out
there by itself, easy to replace. The other is further inboard, near
the audio IC. But you can cut-and-try with a .5ufd or a .1 ufd film,
across the any of the likely candidates listening for a change. Can
make quite a difference. Although with the fact AGC, and the
generally poor audio stage, don't expect Little Jewel audio.

* *You can clean up the woolly audio by replacing all the ceramic
capacitors on the board with films. Better definition and clarity.
Small films will fit right in the ceramic positions, and by
selecting your components carefully, for things like thermal
coefficient, you can mitigate some of the drift. Not all, but some.

* *And DX-160 will drift.

* *Further cleaning can be achieved by replacing the electrolytics.
Not only in the power supply, but those dispersed throughout the
board. After all these years, some will have become, or have begun
to become unformed. Some my be distended, indicating impending
failure. Some may even leak. Simple replacement procedure.

* *Touching up the alignment will also help, and using WWV as a
frequency standard, you can do a creditable job calibrating dial
positions.

* *Lastly, the dial lights have decent, but not remarkably long
life. You can find drop-in LED replacements at Digi-Key, or
SuperbrightLeds.com. The warm whites look just like incandescents,
and last 100 times longer. You may have to add a small series
resistor to the dial light circuit to limit current to the LED
replacements. That's a small matter, and dramatically improves life
of the lamp without significantly altering lumen output.

* *Now, if you REALLY want to make this rig over, you can install
Murata filters in the IF's. But that may be a long reach for such a
simple receiver.

* *p

Thank you once again, Peter and Kevin - great stuff! My 160 does need
freq calibration pretty badly, and possibly (probably?) alignment as
well.

Bruce

On Jan 25, 4:05*pm, bpnjensen wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:27*am, "D. Peter Maus"
wrote:





On 1/24/10 11:55 , bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. *Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

* *Without specifics on the nature of your RFI, I'd build the
transformer from the recommended materials, 43 or 77, and then build
frequency specific chokes to purpose. That way, if your RFI changes,
as it often can, you're solution is to built another choke, not to
revise your receiver's input.

* *Kevin makes a good point about the antenna trim control at the
input of DX-160. That covers a multitude of sins. Not unlike my
Nationals, similarly equipped.

* *That control showed up on DX-120, and was the reason I got
interested in this line in the first place. I couldn't afford one
until DX-150. Bought one of those, and have had two DX-160s since.
Fun radios. Not quite as selective as my S-40 and S-53 Halli's but
good for program listening on the big guys. DX-160 had less hum in
the audio, and came on immediately. After more than a decade of
tubes, by that time, I thought that was bitchin' cool. Just couldn't
justify the money at the time.

* *DX-160 has pretty lifeless audio. Not much above 6k, and bottom
rolled of below 150hz. You can bring a little life back to that
bottom end, by changing a couple of the capacitors. One in the audio
circuit, and one bringing the audio from the detector to the audio
stage. Which ones at this point, specifically, I don't recall, but I
think one is on a trace on the extreme right of the PCB. It's out
there by itself, easy to replace. The other is further inboard, near
the audio IC. But you can cut-and-try with a .5ufd or a .1 ufd film,
across the any of the likely candidates listening for a change. Can
make quite a difference. Although with the fact AGC, and the
generally poor audio stage, don't expect Little Jewel audio.

* *You can clean up the woolly audio by replacing all the ceramic
capacitors on the board with films. Better definition and clarity.
Small films will fit right in the ceramic positions, and by
selecting your components carefully, for things like thermal
coefficient, you can mitigate some of the drift. Not all, but some.

* *And DX-160 will drift.

* *Further cleaning can be achieved by replacing the electrolytics.
Not only in the power supply, but those dispersed throughout the
board. After all these years, some will have become, or have begun
to become unformed. Some my be distended, indicating impending
failure. Some may even leak. Simple replacement procedure.

* *Touching up the alignment will also help, and using WWV as a
frequency standard, you can do a creditable job calibrating dial
positions.

* *Lastly, the dial lights have decent, but not remarkably long
life. You can find drop-in LED replacements at Digi-Key, or
SuperbrightLeds.com. The warm whites look just like incandescents,
and last 100 times longer. You may have to add a small series
resistor to the dial light circuit to limit current to the LED
replacements. That's a small matter, and dramatically improves life
of the lamp without significantly altering lumen output.

* *Now, if you REALLY want to make this rig over, you can install
Murata filters in the IF's. But that may be a long reach for such a
simple receiver.

* *p

Thank you once again, Peter and Kevin - great stuff! *My 160 does need
freq calibration pretty badly, and possibly (probably?) alignment as
well.

Bruce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
After changing just 2 or 3 ceramics in the audio stages has
improved enormously in my DX-160. Drift is somewhat moderate, compared
to other radios of similar design and era. But, the band switch is
VERY troublesome. Really kills gain and sometimes creates other
problems as well (requires incessant care,like a newborn). On the
positive note: the IF filter is actually of mechanical type,built
right into the IF coil ! Calibration is an over statement in this
receiver- it was never designed to be a precision gadjet,alas. Even
the model which preceded it , the SX/AX- 190 was miles ahead of it in
most respects. Radio Shack has been lowering it's standards
ever since...

On Jan 26, 1:54*am, wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:05*pm, bpnjensen wrote:



On Jan 25, 6:27*am, "D. Peter Maus"
wrote:

On 1/24/10 11:55 , bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. *Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

* *Without specifics on the nature of your RFI, I'd build the
transformer from the recommended materials, 43 or 77, and then build
frequency specific chokes to purpose. That way, if your RFI changes,
as it often can, you're solution is to built another choke, not to
revise your receiver's input.

* *Kevin makes a good point about the antenna trim control at the
input of DX-160. That covers a multitude of sins. Not unlike my
Nationals, similarly equipped.

* *That control showed up on DX-120, and was the reason I got
interested in this line in the first place. I couldn't afford one
until DX-150. Bought one of those, and have had two DX-160s since.
Fun radios. Not quite as selective as my S-40 and S-53 Halli's but
good for program listening on the big guys. DX-160 had less hum in
the audio, and came on immediately. After more than a decade of
tubes, by that time, I thought that was bitchin' cool. Just couldn't
justify the money at the time.

* *DX-160 has pretty lifeless audio. Not much above 6k, and bottom
rolled of below 150hz. You can bring a little life back to that
bottom end, by changing a couple of the capacitors. One in the audio
circuit, and one bringing the audio from the detector to the audio
stage. Which ones at this point, specifically, I don't recall, but I
think one is on a trace on the extreme right of the PCB. It's out
there by itself, easy to replace. The other is further inboard, near
the audio IC. But you can cut-and-try with a .5ufd or a .1 ufd film,
across the any of the likely candidates listening for a change. Can
make quite a difference. Although with the fact AGC, and the
generally poor audio stage, don't expect Little Jewel audio.

* *You can clean up the woolly audio by replacing all the ceramic
capacitors on the board with films. Better definition and clarity.
Small films will fit right in the ceramic positions, and by
selecting your components carefully, for things like thermal
coefficient, you can mitigate some of the drift. Not all, but some.

* *And DX-160 will drift.

* *Further cleaning can be achieved by replacing the electrolytics.
Not only in the power supply, but those dispersed throughout the
board. After all these years, some will have become, or have begun
to become unformed. Some my be distended, indicating impending
failure. Some may even leak. Simple replacement procedure.

* *Touching up the alignment will also help, and using WWV as a
frequency standard, you can do a creditable job calibrating dial
positions.

* *Lastly, the dial lights have decent, but not remarkably long
life. You can find drop-in LED replacements at Digi-Key, or
SuperbrightLeds.com. The warm whites look just like incandescents,
and last 100 times longer. You may have to add a small series
resistor to the dial light circuit to limit current to the LED
replacements. That's a small matter, and dramatically improves life
of the lamp without significantly altering lumen output.

* *Now, if you REALLY want to make this rig over, you can install
Murata filters in the IF's. But that may be a long reach for such a
simple receiver.

* *p

Thank you once again, Peter and Kevin - great stuff! *My 160 does need
freq calibration pretty badly, and possibly (probably?) alignment as
well.

Bruce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

* * * * * *After changing just 2 or 3 ceramics in the audio stages has
improved enormously in my DX-160. Drift is somewhat moderate, compared
to other radios of similar design and era. But, the band switch is
VERY troublesome. Really kills gain and sometimes creates other
problems as well (requires incessant care,like a newborn). On the
positive note: the IF filter is actually of mechanical type,built
right into the IF coil ! *Calibration is an over statement in this
receiver- it was never designed to be a precision gadjet,alas. *Even
the model which preceded it , the SX/AX- 190 was miles ahead of it in
most respects. * * * * *Radio Shack has been lowering it's standards
ever since...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi, Anthony - when you changed the ceramics, did you change the values
too or just a like-for-like replacement with films?

My DX-160 freqs are so far off that it needs SOMETHING... :-O Band 3
is a disaster; 2 is quite good, 4 is pretty far off but usable, 5 is
not great. Band 1 is so full of intermod products as to be useless
anyway...

How does the bandswitch kill gain? I have pretty good sensitivity on
all of the bands (sometimes too much!)...

Bruce

On 1/26/10 10:08 , bpnjensen wrote:
My DX-160 freqs are so far off that it needs SOMETHING... :-O Band 3
is a disaster; 2 is quite good, 4 is pretty far off but usable, 5 is
not great. Band 1 is so full of intermod products as to be useless
anyway...




That's about normal for DX-160 at this age. And it will be prone
to intermod. The RF gain control is before the first gain stage, so
just turn it down until the intermod products start to decrease. Or
reduce the amount of antenna. A good ground will help, too.

Dial calibration is usually adjusted with LO for each band. The
upper bands will be further out of tolerance due to the greater
sensitivity to component value drift at higher frequencies.

Of course, if the bands are significantly out, you can well
assume with some certainty that the IF's are also out. Though likely
not by too much.

The bandswitch can be kind of flaky. Can spray cleaning may not
have the desired results. If you want to go bat**** crazy with this,
GoldPoint makes a really nice, configurable-to-purpose Swiss made
switch that can be applied to replace the flaky factory switch.
You'll never have bandswitch problems again. Cost more more than the
radio. More than a couple of them, actually, but anything worth
doing is worth overdoing.

They also make some detented step switch rotary faders for audio
(I put one in my C-26 preamp) they're amazing. But also not cheap.

I found the manual with schematic for mine. I can have a copy
made for you, if you need it.

p

On Jan 25, 11:18*am, (Mark Zenier) wrote:
In article ,

bpnjensen wrote:
Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. *Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

The different core type comes from the fact that Amidon is reselling stuff
from different manufacterers. *I've used both 77 and J for transformers..
They're pretty much the same. *Whatever was on the pegboard at the
(then existing) local shops. *Seems to work best from 3-15 Mhz, if
you want to go for higher frequencies, like CB, try a higher frequency
(lower perm.) core.

Mark Zenier *
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

Thanks, Mark. I am really interested more in lower HF freq ranges,
such as 25 meters and up, especially the tropical bands. As luck
would have it, that's where most of my RFI is.

Bruce

On Jan 26, 8:30*am, "D. Peter Maus"
wrote:
On 1/26/10 10:08 , bpnjensen wrote:

My DX-160 freqs are so far off that it needs SOMETHING... :-O *Band 3
is a disaster; 2 is quite good, 4 is pretty far off but usable, 5 is
not great. *Band 1 is so full of intermod products as to be useless
anyway...

* *That's about normal for DX-160 at this age. And it will be prone
to intermod. The RF gain control is before the first gain stage, so
just turn it down until the intermod products start to decrease. Or
reduce the amount of antenna. A good ground will help, too.

* *Dial calibration is usually adjusted with LO for each band. The
upper bands will be further out of tolerance due to the greater
sensitivity to component value drift at higher frequencies.

* *Of course, if the bands are significantly out, you can well
assume with some certainty that the IF's are also out. Though likely
not by too much.

* *The bandswitch can be kind of flaky. Can spray cleaning may not
have the desired results. If you want to go bat**** crazy with this,
GoldPoint makes a really nice, configurable-to-purpose Swiss made
switch that can be applied to replace the flaky factory switch.
You'll never have bandswitch problems again. Cost more more than the
radio. More than a couple of them, actually, but anything worth
doing is worth overdoing.

* *They also make some detented step switch rotary faders for audio
(I put one in my C-26 preamp) they're amazing. But also not cheap.

* *I found the manual with schematic for mine. I can have a copy
made for you, if you need it.

* * p

Thanks, Peter - what is "LO"?

I actually have a schematic and manual - I would not be surprised if
you were the one who copied it for me originally :-)

Bruce

On Jan 26, 1:54*am, wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:05*pm, bpnjensen wrote:



On Jan 25, 6:27*am, "D. Peter Maus"
wrote:

On 1/24/10 11:55 , bpnjensen wrote:

Another question on this subject - what core should be used for this
application?

Amidon, among others, has cores of many materials including 43 and 77,
both of which seem to get use in these applications; however, for RFI
problems below 10 MHz, Amidon recommends cores of J material, and my
RFI problems (while not confined to under 10 MHz) are primarily below
that frequency. *Would use of J material be wise here, or for this
matching transformer would I be better using the old standbys 43 or
77, and then making lots of separate chokes from other materials such
as J?

* *Without specifics on the nature of your RFI, I'd build the
transformer from the recommended materials, 43 or 77, and then build
frequency specific chokes to purpose. That way, if your RFI changes,
as it often can, you're solution is to built another choke, not to
revise your receiver's input.

* *Kevin makes a good point about the antenna trim control at the
input of DX-160. That covers a multitude of sins. Not unlike my
Nationals, similarly equipped.

* *That control showed up on DX-120, and was the reason I got
interested in this line in the first place. I couldn't afford one
until DX-150. Bought one of those, and have had two DX-160s since.
Fun radios. Not quite as selective as my S-40 and S-53 Halli's but
good for program listening on the big guys. DX-160 had less hum in
the audio, and came on immediately. After more than a decade of
tubes, by that time, I thought that was bitchin' cool. Just couldn't
justify the money at the time.

* *DX-160 has pretty lifeless audio. Not much above 6k, and bottom
rolled of below 150hz. You can bring a little life back to that
bottom end, by changing a couple of the capacitors. One in the audio
circuit, and one bringing the audio from the detector to the audio
stage. Which ones at this point, specifically, I don't recall, but I
think one is on a trace on the extreme right of the PCB. It's out
there by itself, easy to replace. The other is further inboard, near
the audio IC. But you can cut-and-try with a .5ufd or a .1 ufd film,
across the any of the likely candidates listening for a change. Can
make quite a difference. Although with the fact AGC, and the
generally poor audio stage, don't expect Little Jewel audio.

* *You can clean up the woolly audio by replacing all the ceramic
capacitors on the board with films. Better definition and clarity.
Small films will fit right in the ceramic positions, and by
selecting your components carefully, for things like thermal
coefficient, you can mitigate some of the drift. Not all, but some.

* *And DX-160 will drift.

* *Further cleaning can be achieved by replacing the electrolytics.
Not only in the power supply, but those dispersed throughout the
board. After all these years, some will have become, or have begun
to become unformed. Some my be distended, indicating impending
failure. Some may even leak. Simple replacement procedure.

* *Touching up the alignment will also help, and using WWV as a
frequency standard, you can do a creditable job calibrating dial
positions.

* *Lastly, the dial lights have decent, but not remarkably long
life. You can find drop-in LED replacements at Digi-Key, or
SuperbrightLeds.com. The warm whites look just like incandescents,
and last 100 times longer. You may have to add a small series
resistor to the dial light circuit to limit current to the LED
replacements. That's a small matter, and dramatically improves life
of the lamp without significantly altering lumen output.

* *Now, if you REALLY want to make this rig over, you can install
Murata filters in the IF's. But that may be a long reach for such a
simple receiver.

* *p

Thank you once again, Peter and Kevin - great stuff! *My 160 does need
freq calibration pretty badly, and possibly (probably?) alignment as
well.

Bruce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

* * * * * *After changing just 2 or 3 ceramics in the audio stages has
improved enormously in my DX-160. Drift is somewhat moderate, compared
to other radios of similar design and era. But, the band switch is
VERY troublesome. Really kills gain and sometimes creates other
problems as well (requires incessant care,like a newborn). On the
positive note: the IF filter is actually of mechanical type,built
right into the IF coil ! *Calibration is an over statement in this
receiver- it was never designed to be a precision gadjet,alas. *Even
the model which preceded it , the SX/AX- 190 was miles ahead of it in
most respects. * * * * *Radio Shack has been lowering it's standards
ever since...

As I look at the schematic, I realize the band switch actually has
quite a bit to do - each time it is turned, about a half dozen
connections are mechanically made and broken simultaneously. Is this
the source of the trouble? Honestly, I don't think it is a problem in
my radio - but maybe I am missing something.

Bruce

On 1/26/10 20:29 , bpnjensen wrote:
On Jan 26, 8:30 am, "D. Peter
wrote:
On 1/26/10 10:08 , bpnjensen wrote:

My DX-160 freqs are so far off that it needs SOMETHING... :-O Band 3
is a disaster; 2 is quite good, 4 is pretty far off but usable, 5 is
not great. Band 1 is so full of intermod products as to be useless
anyway...

That's about normal for DX-160 at this age. And it will be prone
to intermod. The RF gain control is before the first gain stage, so
just turn it down until the intermod products start to decrease. Or
reduce the amount of antenna. A good ground will help, too.

Dial calibration is usually adjusted with LO for each band. The
upper bands will be further out of tolerance due to the greater
sensitivity to component value drift at higher frequencies.

Of course, if the bands are significantly out, you can well
assume with some certainty that the IF's are also out. Though likely
not by too much.

The bandswitch can be kind of flaky. Can spray cleaning may not
have the desired results. If you want to go bat**** crazy with this,
GoldPoint makes a really nice, configurable-to-purpose Swiss made
switch that can be applied to replace the flaky factory switch.
You'll never have bandswitch problems again. Cost more more than the
radio. More than a couple of them, actually, but anything worth
doing is worth overdoing.

They also make some detented step switch rotary faders for audio
(I put one in my C-26 preamp) they're amazing. But also not cheap.

I found the manual with schematic for mine. I can have a copy
made for you, if you need it.

p

Thanks, Peter - what is "LO"?


Local oscillator. It generates the frequency used to beat against
the incoming frequency to create the IF.


I actually have a schematic and manual - I would not be surprised if
you were the one who copied it for me originally :-)


You're welcome.

I think?


p