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High-Gain AM Car Antenna?
My car radio, although good on FM, stinks on MW. It's about as sensitive as a
brick, but I don't want to replace the radio. Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna? |
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The AM radio antenna is a high-impedance active antenna system.
That's why the center conductor is so tiny. The impedance converter transistor is inside the radio. Sometimes there's a trimmer capacitor to peak AM reception. Google the radio and you may very well get some service tips. On 16 Apr 2004 00:47:50 GMT, (RFCOMMSYS) wrote: My car radio, although good on FM, stinks on MW. It's about as sensitive as a brick, but I don't want to replace the radio. Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna? |
(RFCOMMSYS) wrote ...
Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna? Check out C Crane and also http://wwww.crutchfield.com Both of them were offering an improved AM mobile antenna some time back. |
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= = = (Gary) wrote in message
= = = . com... (RFCOMMSYS) wrote in message ... My car radio, although good on FM, stinks on MW. It's about as sensitive as a brick, but I don't want to replace the radio. Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna? Many years ago I purchased a coil that installed near the bottom of my car antenna which drastically increased the signal. I can't find that item available anymore. I also used a smaller coil that installed near the top of the antenna. These items were then available at many auto accessory stores. Also, the ones I have experience with only worked with non-power rod antennas. C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp * This Loaded Coil Antenna will improve reception by almost double on AM and may improve FM. * Antenna works by increasing the electrical length over your existing antenna. * The antenna has a coiled stainless steel spring which will allow the antenna to bend under the pressure of high speed, and helps prevent damage. * Height collapsed is 24" and 54" fully extended. Signal-to-Noise: Tuner Talk and Car Radio Antennas http://www.carsound.com/columns/navone/nav0004.shtml - by David Navone .. .. Now there is a booster that works on all car antennas. BOOSTER= http://tinyurl.com/2xazb http://jcwhitney.1estore.com/moreinf...item=03ZX9401Y .. .. Just go to: www.jcwhitney.com and do a search for antenna booster. I have no idea how good these work, but they don't cost much. iane ~ RHF .. |
As I recall my active antenna theory, you do not want a resonant
stick. Energy transfer actually decreases as the electrical length of the antenna increases. On 16 Apr 2004 21:22:57 -0700, (RHF) wrote: = = = (Gary) wrote in message = = = . com... (RFCOMMSYS) wrote in message ... My car radio, although good on FM, stinks on MW. It's about as sensitive as a brick, but I don't want to replace the radio. Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna? Many years ago I purchased a coil that installed near the bottom of my car antenna which drastically increased the signal. I can't find that item available anymore. I also used a smaller coil that installed near the top of the antenna. These items were then available at many auto accessory stores. Also, the ones I have experience with only worked with non-power rod antennas. C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp * This Loaded Coil Antenna will improve reception by almost double on AM and may improve FM. * Antenna works by increasing the electrical length over your existing antenna. * The antenna has a coiled stainless steel spring which will allow the antenna to bend under the pressure of high speed, and helps prevent damage. * Height collapsed is 24" and 54" fully extended. Signal-to-Noise: Tuner Talk and Car Radio Antennas http://www.carsound.com/columns/navone/nav0004.shtml - by David Navone . . Now there is a booster that works on all car antennas. BOOSTER= http://tinyurl.com/2xazb http://jcwhitney.1estore.com/moreinf...item=03ZX9401Y . . Just go to: www.jcwhitney.com and do a search for antenna booster. I have no idea how good these work, but they don't cost much. iane ~ RHF . |
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM. |
(Gary) wrote in message . com...
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM. .................................................. ......................... These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is broadband. It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked. There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a 1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster, and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or steel wool until it is shiny. Be careful not to let the free end of the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection. 2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal. The modern cars have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good spot. 3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable works well for this. These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but these three fixes were usually all I needed to do. |
I ain't putting any sheet metal screws in my car frame, thank-you.
On 17 Apr 2004 15:50:46 -0700, (ken) wrote: (Gary) wrote in message . com... (RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM. ................................................. ......................... These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is broadband. It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked. There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a 1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster, and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or steel wool until it is shiny. Be careful not to let the free end of the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection. 2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal. The modern cars have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good spot. 3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable works well for this. These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but these three fixes were usually all I needed to do. |
(ken) wrote in message om...
(Gary) wrote in message . com... (RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM. .................................................. ........................ These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is broadband. There is NO transistor or RF amplifier on that antenna. It is merely a coil of wire that, in effect, gives the antenna a longer length. I never had a problem with mine picking up more noise, and it was on a 1958 Ford. |
On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 17:50:46 -0500, ken wrote
(in message ): (Gary) wrote in message . com... (RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than your radio, always! http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM. .................................................. ........................ These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is broadband. It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked. There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a 1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster, and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or steel wool until it is shiny. If you know any women [grin], ask one to save you her old emeryboards (fingernails thingie). They're very convenient because one can use it in tight areas. [Also, there is another thingie called an "orange stick" that is very handy for holding something you'e soldering if you want to avoid using something that is actually a heatsink. Be careful not to let the free end of the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection. 2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal. Please! Connect to the ground terminal. Different cars have positive and negative grounds. The modern cars have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good spot. 3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable works well for this. These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but these three fixes were usually all I needed to do. Yup. Your advice is excellent/ gray// |
.. My car radio, although good on FM, stinks on MW. It's about as sensitive as
a brick, but I don't want to replace the radio. Does anyone sell a high-gain AM car antenna Replace the Car [.] Go to one of the nicer junk yards in your area (they're in every city.) There's a couple in our area that when you walk in, on the left side against the wall is a HUGE see-through cabinet stock full of all kinds of different radios. Older just AM radios are the ones I like and have in my 'fun car.' Those tend to be the *hot* radios. I've even saw radios with shortwave bands on them, of course....they're more. What wrong with popping in a just old cleaned up hot only AM radio? I promise that would solve the problem pronto.:-) I have a just AM Delco with either 5 or 6 push-button channels to program and on the volume knob it pulls out if you want to anttenuate the signal, I've often wonder the db loss when I pull that out. It came with the original radio papers 'explaining' AM radio and how the radio works. It's a hottie! :-) ~*~*Monitoring The AirWaves~*~ *****GO BEARCATS***** Hammarlund HQ129X /Heathkit Q Multiplier Hammarlund HQ140X Multiple GE P-780's(GREAT BCB Radios) RCA Victor *Strato- World* RCA Victor RJC77W-K(Walnut Grain) 1942 Zenith Wave Magnet 6G 601M Cathedral/ Ross#2311/Rhapsody-MultiBand DX100/394/398/399/402 OMGS Transistor Eight/Realistic 12-1451 Henry Kloss Model One/Bell+Howell ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* Alpha Delta DX Sloper 57ft. 600ft. 12AWG. (non-terminated) 120ft. 12 AWG Sloper 2 Radio Shack Loop Antennas Radio Shack Amplified Antenna 30X30 DiamondLoop(six section 830pf Cap) * Diamond Loop mounted to Lazy Susan TurnTable* |
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