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Old May 24th 05, 04:55 PM
 
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Wall warts can only deliver so many ma, or for big ones an amp or 2.
A real power supply can deliver well over it's rated current for a few
seconds.

Long enough to turn most radios into slag.

Go with one with a built in OVP/crowbar and try building an
out board one later. In a extened power outage you might find it
usefull to be able to draw power from you car or truck. At that
time you really want to have a OVP/crowbar between your radios
and vehical's electrical system.

Flexiblility is important.

You might want to contact the alarm companies in your area as many
of the better ones retire perfectly good gell cells from alarm systems
for insurance reasons. Having a burgler alarm fall during a powqer
outage because a 3 year old gell cell died is real bad for business.

I have several gell cells that are 10 years old and going strong.
After overcharging them, heat is the biggest killer, keep them cool,
under ~90F, and they will last for years. Here in central Kentucky
we often have nasty T-storms that knock the power out for several
hours. It is very nice to be able to listen to my radios after the
storm
moves out. It is true that I mainly listen to my scanners, but having
a SW is very nice also.

One winter's night 2 years ago the lights went out and stayed out for
about 5 hours. Perfect listening conditions. No nearby TV,s PCs etc.
Very RF quite. Made the extra effort for the gell cells worth while.

Terry

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Old May 25th 05, 03:00 PM
Lucky
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...
Wall warts can only deliver so many ma, or for big ones an amp or 2.
A real power supply can deliver well over it's rated current for a few
seconds.

Long enough to turn most radios into slag.

Go with one with a built in OVP/crowbar and try building an
out board one later. In a extened power outage you might find it
usefull to be able to draw power from you car or truck. At that
time you really want to have a OVP/crowbar between your radios
and vehical's electrical system.

Flexiblility is important.

You might want to contact the alarm companies in your area as many
of the better ones retire perfectly good gell cells from alarm systems
for insurance reasons. Having a burgler alarm fall during a powqer
outage because a 3 year old gell cell died is real bad for business.

I have several gell cells that are 10 years old and going strong.
After overcharging them, heat is the biggest killer, keep them cool,
under ~90F, and they will last for years. Here in central Kentucky
we often have nasty T-storms that knock the power out for several
hours. It is very nice to be able to listen to my radios after the
storm
moves out. It is true that I mainly listen to my scanners, but having
a SW is very nice also.

One winter's night 2 years ago the lights went out and stayed out for
about 5 hours. Perfect listening conditions. No nearby TV,s PCs etc.
Very RF quite. Made the extra effort for the gell cells worth while.

Terry


Wouldn't the gel cell need to be 12 to 13.8v though? I've heard you guys
talk about gel cells for outdoor radio use. They sound interesting. So you
just add the correct sized plug to the gel cell for your radios power input
jack and you're good to go?

Lucky


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Old May 25th 05, 04:03 PM
 
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To charge a lead acid battery regardless if
if it is liquid, like your car battery, or has a
gelled electrolyt, requires a higher voltage then
the nominal rated voltage be applied.

Broadly speaking there afre three classes of lead
acid service.
Starting, cycle, and flaot.
The first is your typical engine atarting service.
Requires gobs of vurrent for short periods and loafs after that.
Cycle is like for golf carts, fork lifts, VHS camcorders, and in truth
the way I used to use a gell cell to power my SW for weekend
radio picnics.
Standby is for "emergency" loss of power applicaitns like emergency
lightst in public areas, PC UPS and the like.
And each service has different suggested charging voltages.
See:
http://www.osibatteries.com/pdf/Gel%...ies%202004.pdf
for one take on the correct charging voltages.

Cars charge batteries at up to 15V. A gell cell wll get hot and fail
very rapidly at that voltage. I have found 13.69V to be good voltage.
Some go as low as 13.5 or so. Much below that 13.5 and the battery
will not charge.

Half these for 6 volt batteries. I have a couple of 6V gell cells
designed
to power camcorders that I use with our DX398 for week end radio
picnics. One DX398 will operate for over a day on a single battery.
To get slighlty longer run time I could charge them at ~7V, but I prfer
for my batteries to live longer then run longer.

Everything is a trade off. Longer run time for fewer charge/discharge
cycles.

At home I would just operate everything from my 12 gell cells, I have
linear step down regulators to reduce the 12V to 9V and 6V as needed.
With each devcie protected by a OVP after the reduction regulator.

If I knew a power outage was going to last a "long time", I would power

our DX398s from the 6V gell cells. I scalvaged 4 PV (solar cells) from
some dead lawn night lights that produce ~150mA at 4V in bright
sunlight,
by making 2 parallel sets of 2 in series I get 8V at ~300mA. With a
simple shunt regulator I get 6.845V,more then enough to keep the gell
cell topped off and operate 2 DX398s at the same time.

I have a couple of older Arco ~12V PV arrays that produce 18V @.75A
in bright sunshine, so I could recharge my 12V gell cells and or
operate some equipment during daylight hours. Remnants from the cold
war when the great nuke out seamed likely.

Terry

  #4   Report Post  
Old May 25th 05, 05:06 PM
Lucky
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
ups.com...
To charge a lead acid battery regardless if
if it is liquid, like your car battery, or has a
gelled electrolyt, requires a higher voltage then
the nominal rated voltage be applied.

Broadly speaking there afre three classes of lead
acid service.
Starting, cycle, and flaot.
The first is your typical engine atarting service.
Requires gobs of vurrent for short periods and loafs after that.
Cycle is like for golf carts, fork lifts, VHS camcorders, and in truth
the way I used to use a gell cell to power my SW for weekend
radio picnics.
Standby is for "emergency" loss of power applicaitns like emergency
lightst in public areas, PC UPS and the like.
And each service has different suggested charging voltages.
See:
http://www.osibatteries.com/pdf/Gel%...ies%202004.pdf
for one take on the correct charging voltages.

Cars charge batteries at up to 15V. A gell cell wll get hot and fail
very rapidly at that voltage. I have found 13.69V to be good voltage.
Some go as low as 13.5 or so. Much below that 13.5 and the battery
will not charge.

Half these for 6 volt batteries. I have a couple of 6V gell cells
designed
to power camcorders that I use with our DX398 for week end radio
picnics. One DX398 will operate for over a day on a single battery.
To get slighlty longer run time I could charge them at ~7V, but I prfer
for my batteries to live longer then run longer.

Everything is a trade off. Longer run time for fewer charge/discharge
cycles.

At home I would just operate everything from my 12 gell cells, I have
linear step down regulators to reduce the 12V to 9V and 6V as needed.
With each devcie protected by a OVP after the reduction regulator.

If I knew a power outage was going to last a "long time", I would power

our DX398s from the 6V gell cells. I scalvaged 4 PV (solar cells) from
some dead lawn night lights that produce ~150mA at 4V in bright
sunlight,
by making 2 parallel sets of 2 in series I get 8V at ~300mA. With a
simple shunt regulator I get 6.845V,more then enough to keep the gell
cell topped off and operate 2 DX398s at the same time.

I have a couple of older Arco ~12V PV arrays that produce 18V @.75A
in bright sunshine, so I could recharge my 12V gell cells and or
operate some equipment during daylight hours. Remnants from the cold
war when the great nuke out seamed likely.

Terry


Thanks for the explanations Terry. I'm going to try one instead of taking 16
battries with me and HF-150. I charge up 16 2100 mAh in my "8 ata time"
charger.
Does 8 in 8 hours so it's not that bad. The first charger I had took like
14-15 hours!

I refuse to charge the batteries in the Lowe itself. I wil not take the
chance of accidents and I don't believe in the radio being in use all the
time for such a simple process. I know I'm being overprotective of the radio
but I think it's worth it.

Lucky


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