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#1
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I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a
tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Tnx...Norm VE3CZI |
#2
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Norm VE3CZI wrote:
I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Tnx...Norm VE3CZI Hi Norm I suspect the "decals" are more likely to be screen printed with paint rather than hobbyist water transfers unless they are on the back of a glass dial. If so, you can probably use the standard method of surface cleaning electical equipment, methylated spirits. You might like to check a small spot of paint first. Simon |
#3
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![]() "Simon" wrote in message ... Norm VE3CZI wrote: I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Tnx...Norm VE3CZI Hi Norm I suspect the "decals" are more likely to be screen printed with paint rather than hobbyist water transfers unless they are on the back of a glass dial. If so, you can probably use the standard method of surface cleaning electical equipment, methylated spirits. You might like to check a small spot of paint first. Simon I think it would be safer to try a solution of dishwashing detergent in warm water first. This is surprizingly effective and safe for most materials. Next up would be a household cleaner like Formula 409. Any solvent should be tested using a cotton swab on a spot that isn't too visible. Rubbing alcohol may also work and is safe for most paints and materials (but not cellulose nitrate or acetate both often used for old dials and dial windows). -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#4
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Norm VE3CZI wrote:
I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Depends what the decals are. Ammonia will remove a lot of tobacco smoke, and it's very easy on most panel surfaces. Formula 409 is a lot more effective. It will be fine on silkscreened paint although it can take some lettering off so try it on a small corner first. I have used it to turn broadcast equipment from bright orange to white. It is very powerful stuff and you should be careful with it. It will etch bakelite, by the way. Another solution is to take up smoking, especially cigars. Then soon all your equipment will match. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#5
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
Norm VE3CZI wrote: I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Depends what the decals are. Ammonia will remove a lot of tobacco smoke, and it's very easy on most panel surfaces. Formula 409 is a lot more effective. It will be fine on silkscreened paint although it can take some lettering off so try it on a small corner first. I have used it to turn broadcast equipment from bright orange to white. It is very powerful stuff and you should be careful with it. It will etch bakelite, by the way. Another solution is to take up smoking, especially cigars. Then soon all your equipment will match. --scott Does anyone know what Formula 409 consists of as it is not in my supermarket or chemistry book? Is it just a local product in one country or maybe it is just acetone, alcohol or methylated spirits under a fancy name? Thanks for any help. Simon |
#6
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Simon wrote:
Does anyone know what Formula 409 consists of as it is not in my supermarket or chemistry book? Is it just a local product in one country or maybe it is just acetone, alcohol or methylated spirits under a fancy name? From the MSDS for 409. -Chuck ================================================== ========================= Ingredients/Identity Information ================================================== ========================= Proprietary: NO Ingredient: 2-BUTOXYETHANOL (ETHYLENEGLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER), BUTYL CELLOSOLVE, BUTYL GLYCOL, GLYCOL ETHER EB Ingredient Sequence Number: 01 Percent: 0.5-5 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: KJ8575000 CAS Number: 111-76-2 OSHA PEL: 50 PPM (SKIN) ACGIH TLV: 25 PPM (SKIN) Other Recommended Limit: 25 PPM (SKIN) ------------------------------------- Proprietary: NO Ingredient: ETHYLENE OXIDE (SUSPECTED 2A HUMAN CARCINOGEN BY IARC; CONFIRMED ANIMAL CARINOGEN BY IARC & NTP) Ingredient Sequence Number: 02 Percent: TRACE NIOSH (RTECS) Number: KX2450000 CAS Number: 75-21-8 ACGIH TLV: 1.8 MG/CUM (A2) ------------------------------------- Proprietary: NO Ingredient: GLYCOL ETHERS, DIETHYLENE GLYCOL, 2,2-OXYBISETHANOL Ingredient Sequence Number: 03 Percent: 10 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: ID5950000 CAS Number: 111-46-6 ------------------------------------- Proprietary: NO Ingredient: MAGNESIUM SODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINETETRAACETATE *92-2* Ingredient Sequence Number: 04 Percent: 1 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: 1007734MS CAS Number: 14402-88-1 ------------------------------------- Proprietary: NO Ingredient: SODIUM HYDROXIDE, CAUSTIC SODA, LYE Ingredient Sequence Number: 05 Percent: 0.5 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: WB4900000 CAS Number: 1310-73-2 OSHA PEL: 2 MG/CUM ACGIH TLV: 2 MG/CUM CEILING Other Recommended Limit: 2MG/M3 CEILING NIOSH |
#7
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One thing, from the ingredient list I posted earlier is Formula 409
contains Butyl Cellosolve. This is terrible stuff on plastics. It is what turns clear plastic molded meter windows foggy. I would not use Formula 409, or any other cleaner that contains Butyl Cellosolve on plastics of any sort. The stuff soaks into the plastic and makes it sticky and soft... sort of a plasticizer. -Chuck Harris |
#8
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Simon wrote:
Does anyone know what Formula 409 consists of as it is not in my supermarket or chemistry book? Is it just a local product in one country or maybe it is just acetone, alcohol or methylated spirits under a fancy name? It's 2-butoxyethanol, with a little soap and water and a pH buffer to keep it alkaline. In the US, you can buy commercial degreasers with much higher 2-butoxyethanol content (Ace Hardware sells something by the gallon that is almost half 2-butoxyethanol), but 409 is plenty strong. It's a good solvent for anything greasy or oily. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#9
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Scott Dorsey wrote:
It's 2-butoxyethanol, with a little soap and water and a pH buffer to keep it alkaline. In the US, you can buy commercial degreasers with much higher 2-butoxyethanol content (Ace Hardware sells something by the gallon that is almost half 2-butoxyethanol), but 409 is plenty strong. It's a good solvent for anything greasy or oily. --scott Scott and others Thanks for the info - sounds fine for greasy metalwork but not plastics, paint or rubber. Simon |
#10
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On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:56:14 -0400, Norm VE3CZI wrote:
I recently acquired a nice 1950 shortwave receiver but has been exposed to a tobacco smoker during it's existance. Anyone have good method of removing the film without damaging decals on front panel? Tnx...Norm VE3CZI Ive always had good luck removing smoke film with 409. Spray on, let sit for several seconds, then wipe away or blot with paper towel. It wont eat paint or silk screening. As with any restoration, try a test patch somewhere first, like on the back or side near the bottom. |
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