Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I want to put up a "long wire" with the feedpoint at one of the back end
corners of the garden. I need a good RF ground. If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Thu, 19 Apr 2007 17:55:03 +0100, "Richard"
wrote: If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Hi Richard, Not particularly. Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? You could slit the cylinder lengthwise and lay it on or beneath the soil. Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? This a bromide from the late 20s and 30s. Yes, it would keep the ground moist, encourage moss, and increase the density of earthworms. Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? Always, first, and foremost. My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. Lay out a fan of radials as far as you can go. Make it about a dozen to sixteen. Move on because there is small chance of significant improvement beyond that. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Richard Clark" wrote in message ... On Thu, 19 Apr 2007 17:55:03 +0100, "Richard" wrote: If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Hi Richard, Not particularly. Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? You could slit the cylinder lengthwise and lay it on or beneath the soil. Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? This a bromide from the late 20s and 30s. Yes, it would keep the ground moist, encourage moss, and increase the density of earthworms. Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? Always, first, and foremost. My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. Lay out a fan of radials as far as you can go. Make it about a dozen to sixteen. Move on because there is small chance of significant improvement beyond that. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC Good 60Hs ground doesnt mean its a good RF ground. The casing of an abandoned well gives me about a 4 ohm 60 hz ground but about 25 ohms ground on 20 meters. Jimmie |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard wrote:
I want to put up a "long wire" with the feedpoint at one of the back end corners of the garden. I need a good RF ground. If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. That might be overkill.. Why not spend the money on a spool of copper wire and lay radials. For RF purposes, large area of coverage is more important than low impedance at a particular point. You want to improve the apparent conductivity of the soil over as much volume as you can. Think of your grounding system as (partially) a big leaky capacitor to "the earth".. you want to spread the RF current out over as large an area as possible, and radials are probably the easiest way to do it. There's nothing special about how you lay the radials or their length (they're in dirt, so they're not tuned or resonant.. just wires). |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Jim Lux" wrote in message ... Richard wrote: I want to put up a "long wire" with the feedpoint at one of the back end corners of the garden. I need a good RF ground. If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. That might be overkill.. Why not spend the money on a spool of copper wire and lay radials. For RF purposes, large area of coverage is more important than low impedance at a particular point. You want to improve the apparent conductivity of the soil over as much volume as you can. Think of your grounding system as (partially) a big leaky capacitor to "the earth".. you want to spread the RF current out over as large an area as possible, and radials are probably the easiest way to do it. There's nothing special about how you lay the radials or their length (they're in dirt, so they're not tuned or resonant.. just wires). Maybe a 3 foot wde cylinder would be adequate. One thing: Why are radials so effective? They are not resonant counterpoises, and from the aspect of surface area in contact with ground, radials have hardly any surface area that "connects" with "the earth". I can understand if I put in a 20 foot by 20 foot copper plate flat in the earth that would "connect" to earth quite well, I mean the measured ohmic resistance to "the earth" could be quite low. But also capacitive coupling would be low too. But radials have no real capacitive coupling to "the earth" neither much surface area in contact with "the earth". So it confuses me as to why they are so effective. BTW, since it looks like many wires in the earth are as good as a plate, perhaps I could put in a wire mesh grid about 1 foot under the soil over the whole garden . I'm digging up the garden anyway. Perhaps with some ground stakes here and there connected to the grid, although maybe not necessary. |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Richard" wrote in message ... I said: Maybe a 3 foot wde cylinder would be adequate. One thing: Why are radials so effective? They are not resonant counterpoises, and from the aspect of surface area in contact with ground, radials have hardly any surface area that "connects" with "the earth". I can understand if I put in a 20 foot by 20 foot copper plate flat in the earth that would "connect" to earth quite well, I mean the measured ohmic resistance to "the earth" could be quite low. But also capacitive coupling would be low too. But radials have no real capacitive coupling to "the earth" neither much surface area in contact with "the earth". So it confuses me as to why they are so effective. BTW, since it looks like many wires in the earth are as good as a plate, perhaps I could put in a wire mesh grid about 1 foot under the soil over the whole garden . I'm digging up the garden anyway. Perhaps with some ground stakes here and there connected to the grid, although maybe not necessary. The only thing that I can think of why radials are effective is nothing to do with ohmic resistance to "the earth" or capactive coupling to "the earth". Not even to do with a large surface area in contact with the ground. It's simply that the ground is changed, those radials simply make "the earth" in that locality less like an insulator and more like a conductor. More like the radials make the ground below your feet more like say a pool of salt water than the high resistivity ground that it normally is. What do you think? |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 07:58:16 +0100, "Richard"
wrote: More like the radials make the ground below your feet more like say a pool of salt water than the high resistivity ground that it normally is. What do you think? Hi Richard, Actually salt water sucks as a local ground - it is as poor a "good" conductor as you could imagine. Carbon is a far better conductor than salt water, but no one yet has suggested building on top of a coal seam. You would be better off filling your yard with sand to the depth of 30 feet or so (yeah, sure). The testimonials attributed to salt water comes with its far field qualities of a tremendous mismatch to air and offering spectacularly low radiation launch angles. So, copper replaces a very poor conductor (as a first pass approximation). Invest your copper in close proximity to the base of the antenna. That is, a lot of short radials, and a fair number of medium size ones, and a few long ones. Two things to consider. The ground closest to the antenna is responsible for efficiency in loading. The ground further out (between 5 and 10 wavelengths, or more) is responsible for launch efficiency (offering lower launch angles). 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Richard Clark" wrote in message ... On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 07:58:16 +0100, "Richard" wrote: More like the radials make the ground below your feet more like say a pool of salt water than the high resistivity ground that it normally is. What do you think? Hi Richard, Actually salt water sucks as a local ground - it is as poor a "good" conductor as you could imagine. Carbon is a far better conductor than salt water, but no one yet has suggested building on top of a coal seam. You would be better off filling your yard with sand to the depth of 30 feet or so (yeah, sure). The testimonials attributed to salt water comes with its far field qualities of a tremendous mismatch to air and offering spectacularly low radiation launch angles. So, copper replaces a very poor conductor (as a first pass approximation). Invest your copper in close proximity to the base of the antenna. That is, a lot of short radials, and a fair number of medium size ones, and a few long ones. Two things to consider. The ground closest to the antenna is responsible for efficiency in loading. The ground further out (between 5 and 10 wavelengths, or more) is responsible for launch efficiency (offering lower launch angles). Hmm, a new concept introduced. I was thinking on these lines. The first thing to do is to prepare the ground, that is, alter the nature of the ground in the vicinity of the antenna from an electrical point of view. To improve from "poor ground" to "good ground", in an electrical sense. That can be done by laying wires in the ground (radials) or a wire mesh. Once that is done, one is in a better postion to have the best RF ground possible. I think this is what the radial/wires do, they simply alter the nature of the ground where they are placed. This is like making poor ground, good ground or good ground, excellent ground by laying wires in the ground. Now what seems to be the case is that there is an advantage in making the ground nearest the antenna the very best ground that you can. So, if you are going to use wires to better the ground, make sure that most radials go in near the base of the antenna. Of course, wires improve the ground, it's conductivity, but in practice, you tend to connect the antenna to the radials/wires rather than make for seperate arrangements. |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard Clark wrote:
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 07:58:16 +0100, "Richard" wrote: More like the radials make the ground below your feet more like say a pool of salt water than the high resistivity ground that it normally is. What do you think? Hi Richard, Actually salt water sucks as a local ground - it is as poor a "good" conductor as you could imagine. Carbon is a far better conductor than salt water, but no one yet has suggested building on top of a coal seam. You would be better off filling your yard with sand to the depth of 30 feet or so (yeah, sure). The testimonials attributed to salt water comes with its far field qualities of a tremendous mismatch to air and offering spectacularly low radiation launch angles. mostly due to that epsilon of 80, more than the conductivity So, copper replaces a very poor conductor (as a first pass approximation). Invest your copper in close proximity to the base of the antenna. That is, a lot of short radials, and a fair number of medium size ones, and a few long ones. Exactly... In fact, one can do some numerical analysis to figure out an optimum strategy, based on minimizing IR losses in the soil. The current density is higher close to the base of a vertical, so, at first glance, it would appear that improvements in conductivity there would have more "value". I imagine there's some nice integration that covers it all. All that analysis and spreadsheets out there all make the assumption that you want all radials the same length, which isn't necessarily so. What also throws a "wrench into the gear train" is that if you start looking at verticals with nonuniform current distributions, especially if they aren't representable by a "simple" form such as linear or cos(h), an analytical approach gets tricky (hence the suggestion for numerical methods). Consider, for instance, a half wave dipole with the center, say, 3/8 wavelength above the ground. Or some sort of asymmetric vertical with an elevated feedpoint, or loading coils. The optimum radial layout gets a bit trickier to figure out. Two things to consider. The ground closest to the antenna is responsible for efficiency in loading. The ground further out (between 5 and 10 wavelengths, or more) is responsible for launch efficiency (offering lower launch angles). 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 07:44:52 +0100, "Richard"
wrote: Before you dig up the earth, you might try a quickie fix, a 1/4 wave elevated counterpoise, run from your tuner ground nut, out the window, hung from the side of the house or whatever. That's all it took to provide a 1:1 swr for my last "long wire," a 3/4 wave wire for 20 meters. bob k5qwg "Jim Lux" wrote in message ... Richard wrote: I want to put up a "long wire" with the feedpoint at one of the back end corners of the garden. I need a good RF ground. If I got a length of 6 foot wide copper sheet and made out of it a cylinder, say 6 feet in diameter, and then placed that cylinder in an upwards position in the ground, the top level with the surface, would that be a good idea for trying to acheive a decent RF ground? Also, is there anything I could place around the cylinder to better the conduction between the cyinder and the earth around it? Should I drill holes in the cylinder so I can pour water into the cylinder to keep the ground around it moist? Would I still benefit from some radials in the ground? My garden's about 33 foot long, 21 foot wide. Ground gets rather rocky and a bit sandyish at about 9 inches or so from the surface.TIA. That might be overkill.. Why not spend the money on a spool of copper wire and lay radials. For RF purposes, large area of coverage is more important than low impedance at a particular point. You want to improve the apparent conductivity of the soil over as much volume as you can. Think of your grounding system as (partially) a big leaky capacitor to "the earth".. you want to spread the RF current out over as large an area as possible, and radials are probably the easiest way to do it. There's nothing special about how you lay the radials or their length (they're in dirt, so they're not tuned or resonant.. just wires). Maybe a 3 foot wde cylinder would be adequate. One thing: Why are radials so effective? They are not resonant counterpoises, and from the aspect of surface area in contact with ground, radials have hardly any surface area that "connects" with "the earth". I can understand if I put in a 20 foot by 20 foot copper plate flat in the earth that would "connect" to earth quite well, I mean the measured ohmic resistance to "the earth" could be quite low. But also capacitive coupling would be low too. But radials have no real capacitive coupling to "the earth" neither much surface area in contact with "the earth". So it confuses me as to why they are so effective. BTW, since it looks like many wires in the earth are as good as a plate, perhaps I could put in a wire mesh grid about 1 foot under the soil over the whole garden . I'm digging up the garden anyway. Perhaps with some ground stakes here and there connected to the grid, although maybe not necessary. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Transforming your simple Ground Rod into a Ground Anchor : Is It Worth The Work ? - You Decide ! | Shortwave | |||
antenna switch, good ground? | General | |||
antenna switch 'ground' how good/valueable?? | Antenna | |||
Antenna ground - how can you tell if it's good | Antenna | |||
How to get a good ground is very rocky terrian??? | Antenna |