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#1
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My background isn't on antenna making, in fact, my training is in
Chemical engineering, not physics. But lately I've spent a lot of times consuming materials I dig from the Net about antennas, in the effect to learn how to make an excellent (effective?) wifi antenna. Specifically, my interest is in the "broadcast" type of antenna ... trying to find a way to "extend" the range of a typical wifi basestation using antennas alone (maybe with the help of MIMO antennas), without "range repeaters" or whatnots. My brain is now fully clogged, and I'm having difficulties digesting all the stuffs that I've gotten. So I desperately need you help. Is there a place (a forum, a website, a tutorial, and whatnots) where one can learn about antennas, without having one's brain clogged up, like mine right now? What's your suggestion / opinion on how to construct an excellent (pair) of MIMO antenna for wifi (802.11 b/g/n) ? Thank you all ! |
#2
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On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 22:39:23 -0700 (PDT), Penang
wrote: My background isn't on antenna making, in fact, my training is in Chemical engineering, not physics. But lately I've spent a lot of times consuming materials I dig from the Net about antennas, in the effect to learn how to make an excellent (effective?) wifi antenna. Specifically, my interest is in the "broadcast" type of antenna ... trying to find a way to "extend" the range of a typical wifi basestation using antennas alone (maybe with the help of MIMO antennas), without "range repeaters" or whatnots. My brain is now fully clogged, and I'm having difficulties digesting all the stuffs that I've gotten. So I desperately need you help. Is there a place (a forum, a website, a tutorial, and whatnots) where one can learn about antennas, without having one's brain clogged up, like mine right now? What's your suggestion / opinion on how to construct an excellent (pair) of MIMO antenna for wifi (802.11 b/g/n) ? Thank you all ! Yeah, you are welcome. 98% of all WIFI antenna tutorials on the www are bad, unuseable or simply blatantly wrong. Their objects (avoid calling them "antennas") have the functionality of a bare piece of wire, which works also. So I made a 100% WIFI antenna to have an object for a tutorial. But it is not one of the broadcast type you requested, I made a 10 turn 2,4 GHz helix with bandpass stub. I just moved over to grab the camera for a quickie, the antenna dropped down to the floor, the tripod fell over my coffee and the cat jumped into my apple pie. My scalar analyzer failed last week and is on repair, so I cannot make the proofing screenshots: 50 Ohms over the whole WLAN channels 1 to 13 with an SWR 1,5 (and the stub prevents overload by cellular & TV). Why is everything that complicated? w. |
#3
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hwabnig@ .- --- -. dotat wrote:
Yeah, you are welcome. 98% of all WIFI antenna tutorials on the www are bad, unuseable or simply blatantly wrong. Their objects (avoid calling them "antennas") have the functionality of a bare piece of wire, which works also. So I made a 100% WIFI antenna to have an object for a tutorial. But it is not one of the broadcast type you requested, I made a 10 turn 2,4 GHz helix with bandpass stub. I just moved over to grab the camera for a quickie, the antenna dropped down to the floor, the tripod fell over my coffee and the cat jumped into my apple pie. My scalar analyzer failed last week and is on repair, so I cannot make the proofing screenshots: 50 Ohms over the whole WLAN channels 1 to 13 with an SWR 1,5 (and the stub prevents overload by cellular & TV). Why is everything that complicated? w. Because there IS a God, and She has a twisted sense of humor. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
#4
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Roy Lewallen writes:
hwabnig@ .- --- -. dotat wrote: Yeah, you are welcome. 98% of all WIFI antenna tutorials on the www are bad, unuseable or simply blatantly wrong. Their objects (avoid calling them "antennas") have the functionality of a bare piece of wire, which works also. So I made a 100% WIFI antenna to have an object for a tutorial. But it is not one of the broadcast type you requested, I made a 10 turn 2,4 GHz helix with bandpass stub. I just moved over to grab the camera for a quickie, the antenna dropped down to the floor, the tripod fell over my coffee and the cat jumped into my apple pie. My scalar analyzer failed last week and is on repair, so I cannot make the proofing screenshots: 50 Ohms over the whole WLAN channels 1 to 13 with an SWR 1,5 (and the stub prevents overload by cellular & TV). Why is everything that complicated? w. Because there IS a God, and She has a twisted sense of humor. A glance at modern physics is enough to convince you of that. |
#5
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hwabnig@ .- --- -. dotat wrote:
Yeah, you are welcome. 98% of all WIFI antenna tutorials on the www are bad, unuseable or simply blatantly wrong. Their objects (avoid calling them "antennas") have the functionality of a bare piece of wire, which works also. So I made a 100% WIFI antenna to have an object for a tutorial. But it is not one of the broadcast type you requested, I made a 10 turn 2,4 GHz helix with bandpass stub. I just moved over to grab the camera for a quickie, the antenna dropped down to the floor, the tripod fell over my coffee and the cat jumped into my apple pie. My scalar analyzer failed last week and is on repair, so I cannot make the proofing screenshots: 50 Ohms over the whole WLAN channels 1 to 13 with an SWR 1,5 (and the stub prevents overload by cellular & TV). Why is everything that complicated? w. Yeah, sounds like a good start for a comic book series; successful ones have been created on less--I suppose ... Regards, JS |
#6
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Starting with one or two basics;
- Keep the losses down - Channel as much of the radiation as possible in the direction you need it Losses in this sense more come from coax runs and connectors. Keep the run short, dont use joiners and if possible mount the WiFi box close to the antenna. You have to also allow for obstructive losses like trees and buildings. The other path loss is from errant reflections. Moounting the antenna high up in the clear resolves many of these issues. Radiating in the right direction isnt rocket science in theory. The average "omnidirectional" antenna is actually "all directions" only parallel to the ground. ie you dont waste radiation skyward or warming the dirt! In terms of distance covered though an omni of this kind wont be as good as employing an antenna that "beams" in one direction. Consider this as a kind of flashlight with reflector and you'll get the right idea. In terms of time/construction/distance investment you'll do a lot better with this kind of antenna than an omni, elthough you will need to point them in the right direction. Which one you choose depends on its intended use. You have probably figured out that the antenna gain figure (in dB) is the measure that is used to determine how much better one antenna is over another. It is a log comparison of the desired radiation direction "strength" vs that of an antenna that radiates eqaully in all directions. An omni however will almost always have a lower gain than a "beam" type antenna. 9 and 12 dB are some fairly high omni gains but "beam" gains can go 15-30dB. The higher the number the greater the range in the desired direction. So my view.. If you intend one site being fixed and the other movable then you'll at least need an omni at the base site. If you only want a point to point link then a "beam" variety at each end is the way to go. I wouldnt go for "best" but engineer the path/strength requirements to determine the antenna gain needed. If I was making the antennas I'd probably use end fire helixes as they seem to be most forgiving in construction errors vs best gain. You might want to tell us your end application, distance to cover, movement of sites and so on so we can suggest something a little more finite. Cheers Bob Penang wrote: What's your suggestion / opinion on how to construct an excellent (pair) of MIMO antenna for wifi (802.11 b/g/n) ? Thank you all ! |
#7
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On Sep 25, 7:43 pm, Bob Bob wrote:
Starting with one or two basics; - Keep the losses down - Channel as much of the radiation as possible in the direction you need it Losses in this sense more come from coax runs and connectors. Keep the run short, dont use joiners and if possible mount the WiFi box close to the antenna. You have to also allow for obstructive losses like trees and buildings. The other path loss is from errant reflections. Moounting the antenna high up in the clear resolves many of these issues. Radiating in the right direction isnt rocket science in theory. The average "omnidirectional" antenna is actually "all directions" only parallel to the ground. ie you dont waste radiation skyward or warming the dirt! In terms of distance covered though an omni of this kind wont be as good as employing an antenna that "beams" in one direction. Consider this as a kind of flashlight with reflector and you'll get the right idea. In terms of time/construction/distance investment you'll do a lot better with this kind of antenna than an omni, elthough you will need to point them in the right direction. Which one you choose depends on its intended use. You have probably figured out that the antenna gain figure (in dB) is the measure that is used to determine how much better one antenna is over another. It is a log comparison of the desired radiation direction "strength" vs that of an antenna that radiates eqaully in all directions. An omni however will almost always have a lower gain than a "beam" type antenna. 9 and 12 dB are some fairly high omni gains but "beam" gains can go 15-30dB. The higher the number the greater the range in the desired direction. So my view.. If you intend one site being fixed and the other movable then you'll at least need an omni at the base site. If you only want a point to point link then a "beam" variety at each end is the way to go. I wouldnt go for "best" but engineer the path/strength requirements to determine the antenna gain needed. If I was making the antennas I'd probably use end fire helixes as they seem to be most forgiving in construction errors vs best gain. You might want to tell us your end application, distance to cover, movement of sites and so on so we can suggest something a little more finite. First of all, thanks to all for the many wonderful suggestions !! It's for a community-type wifi network, and I'm cracking my head trying to figure out a way to make the basestations' broadcast cover a wider area. I am reading all your suggestions right now and am trying as hard as possible to digest them all. ![]() Thanks again !! Cheers Bob Penang wrote: What's your suggestion / opinion on how to construct an excellent (pair) of MIMO antenna for wifi (802.11 b/g/n) ? Thank you all ! |
#8
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Okay well the answer is relatively simple.
"Height is might". Antenna system should be as high as possible, clear of path obstructions and provide gain in the direction of interest. For equal coverage in all directions this generally means a vertical collinear design. The idea is to have a very small angle vertical pattern as close to horizontal as possible. (ie radiates most of its power to the horizon) In my experience, end fed (ie at the bottom) collinear systems (especially home made ones) tend to have current imbalances in the elements such that the lower ones get slightly more than the upper ones. the result is that the pattern skews undesirably upwards at a slight angle. You also get less gain per unit length using systems that feed from one element to the next rather than (say) a number of dipoles fed directly in parallel. There is an optimum spacing between elements for best gain that is difficult to get in element to element systems. Of course 2.4GHz antennas are harder to size accurately and test equipment can really drain the hip pocket! If I was doing it for a community system I wouldnt bother doing antenna construction as such. I'd probably go and buy maybe 4 of a well known base design of moderate gain and stack them for gain. These may end up being in panels rather than simple verticals. Keep in mind though what you are trying to achieve and best bang for your buck. Doubling your antenna size gives best case an extra 3dB (often less) of gain. In a free space model the extra distance covered is double the distance for every 6 dB. This initially sounds good but once you are no longer line of sight, that gain is nothing compared to the losses. I dont know the 2.4GHz numbers off hand but the range numbers might be something like 5km, then 5.1km with an extra 6dB. Of course those users that have a signal already will get a slightly stronger one and thus may get a higher data rate but there will be a point where more gain and a different system design is better. Using multiple channels and WAP repeaters or bridges/links although likely bringing the bandwidth down will give you greater coverage albeit sometimes at the tradeoff of speed. I dont have any modeling stuff for 2.4GHz networks as such. You tend to need a lot of obstructive rather than terrain data information. You can however take some photos and hand enter some near field terrain info to look like buildings. Have a look at "Radiomobile" as a prediction tool. As far as I remember it is GPL software that you will find other users have used for WiFi networks. You can see the effects of gain and height very easily and it will give you a lot of go/nogo help for particular areas you want to supply access from. Apologies for the length! Bob Penang wrote: It's for a community-type wifi network, and I'm cracking my head trying to figure out a way to make the basestations' broadcast cover a wider area. I am reading all your suggestions right now and am trying as hard as possible to digest them all. ![]() |
#9
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On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 06:30:11 -0500, Bob Bob
wrote: Okay well the answer is relatively simple. Nothing in antenna design is simple. Mind if I disagree with a few details? "Height is might". Antenna system should be as high as possible, clear of path obstructions and provide gain in the direction of interest. I beg to differ, having established one (failed) WISP a few years ago. The higher you place the antenna, the more interference from other 2.4GHz users you'll receive. The license free bands are really polluted. Once you get high enough to get adequate coverage of the client radios, any additional height is counterproductive as it only increases interference pickup. Clear of path obstructions is correct, but difficult to accomplish. The most common screwup is insufficient Fresnel Zone clearance, especially when it hits the ground. For example, let's pretend our WISP is running out if his house to a similar client radio, both with rooftop antennas. That would be about 7 meters off the ground. Quiz: At 2.4GHz how far away can these they be before an 80% Fresnel zone hits the ground? Answer: http://www.terabeam.com/support/calculations/fresnel-zone.php Plugging in various ranges until I get a 7 meter Fresnel Zone radius, I get about 2.5km range. Any further and the antenna at one (or both) ends will need to be elevated. For equal coverage in all directions this generally means a vertical collinear design. The idea is to have a very small angle vertical pattern as close to horizontal as possible. (ie radiates most of its power to the horizon) I again beg to differ. Vertical collinear antennas suck for WISP service. Lots of problem. On omnis with sufficiently high gain, the extremely narrow vertical radiation pattern, and the apparently incurable uptllted pattern, results in sending the RF to various useless directions. There are antennas with a few degrees of downtilt, but my testing shows that they still have uptilt when mounted on a tower outrigger. In my never humble opinion, the proper antenna for WISP service is a 90 or 120 degree sector antenna. These offer a solution to the uptilt problem in that they can be pointed downward without having most of your RF go into the sky on the backside. See photo at: http://www.qsl.net/yu1aw/3InvAmosa7.JPG These are 3 antennas, connected to 3 different access points. However, the 3 antennas could just as easily be run by a single access point, by using a combiner/splitter, yielding plenty of gain with the advantage of downtilt. In my experience, end fed (ie at the bottom) collinear systems (especially home made ones) tend to have current imbalances in the elements such that the lower ones get slightly more than the upper ones. the result is that the pattern skews undesirably upwards at a slight angle. You also get less gain per unit length using systems that feed from one element to the next rather than (say) a number of dipoles fed directly in parallel. There is an optimum spacing between elements for best gain that is difficult to get in element to element systems. Yep. However, it's not an "imbalance" that causes the problem. End fed vertical collinear antennas belch half of the RF from the first 1/2 wave dipole near the connector. 1/4th or half of what's left comes out next half wave section. 1/8 of the RF from the next section and so on ad infinitum. what that means is that there's not much RF left by the time the you get to the tip of the antenna. It's for this reason that I like to mount my end fed omnis upside down on the tower outrigger. This is often vetoed by the tower aesthetics committee but when I get my way, it works very nicely. Incidentally, the uptilt problem is mostly solved by some commercial omni antennas with a center fed collinear dipole arrangement inside the fiberglass tube. This is common at VHF/UHF frequencies but I haven't seen it at 2.4GHz. Of course 2.4GHz antennas are harder to size accurately and test equipment can really drain the hip pocket! Bah. The stuff costs money but there's no need to buy state of the art hardware. A good RF sweep generator, direction coupler, diode detector, general purpose oscilloscope, marker generator, and a mess of coax cables, adapters, and terminators, are usually sufficient: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/BL-shop5.html The HP8620A sweep generator is fine (but my 2-4GHz plug needs work). There are two Wiltron 610D sweep generators behind the pile. I don't recall what I paid for all the sweepers, but it wasn't huge. The real key to sweeping the antenna is in the directional coupler or VSWR bridge. Good ones are expensive and easy to destroy. So, build your own for just 2.4Ghz: http://pe2er.nl/wifiswr/ If I was doing it for a community system I wouldnt bother doing antenna construction as such. Maybe. Commercial sector antennas are somewhat expensive. http://www.superpass.com/2400-2483M.html It's a marginal proposition to build your own for just the base stations. However, if I were supplying client radios for the customers, I would certainly consider rolling my own to save a few dollars per install. I dont know the 2.4GHz numbers off hand but the range numbers might be something like 5km, then 5.1km with an extra 6dB. Of course those users that have a signal already will get a slightly stronger one and thus may get a higher data rate but there will be a point where more gain and a different system design is better. Using multiple channels and WAP repeaters or bridges/links although likely bringing the bandwidth down will give you greater coverage albeit sometimes at the tradeoff of speed. Using repeaters (range extenders) or mesh networks also has the disadvantage of hogging air time. With a single channel store and forward repeater, it takes twice the air time to move a single packet between link endpoints. That's not a big deal in an isolated client, but with a heavily used and high access point, it can easily be considered a form of interference. Wireless is a shared medium. If there are packets flying through the air because of repeaters, they will reduce the available air time rather rapidly. Such repeaters also have a lousy delivery success rate, resulting in retransmissions, which reduce the available air time even more. Speed is also an issue, but for a non-obvious reason. In such a shared environment, you want each transmission to occupy as little air time as possible. That means you have to send your data as fast as possible. Signal strength and maximum speed are directly related (all else being equal). The last thing you need is a customer stuck at the minimum 1Mbit/sec and monopolizing a disproportionate amount of air time. I setup mine to do 802.11g OFDM modes only and to ignore all 802.11b speeds. That gives me a 6Mbit/sec minimum OFDM speed, which uses approx 6 times less air time than 1Mbit/sec. It also changed having all the beacons and broadcasts from 1Mbit/sec to 6Mbits/sec. When possible, I like to use fixed data rates, typically 12Mbits/sec or more. I dont have any modeling stuff for 2.4GHz networks as such. You tend to need a lot of obstructive rather than terrain data information. You can however take some photos and hand enter some near field terrain info to look like buildings. Have a look at "Radiomobile" as a prediction tool. As far as I remember it is GPL software that you will find other users have used for WiFi networks. You can see the effects of gain and height very easily and it will give you a lot of go/nogo help for particular areas you want to supply access from. Yep. Great program. I use it often: http://www.cplus.org/rmw/english1.html However, it's only as good as the topographic data. Most commonly available (for the US) are the SRTM v2 data at 1 arc second (30 meters). That's good enough for doing general topography (mountains and valleys) but not good enough for doing urban canyons and small neighborhood WLAN's. Data for the rest of the world varies by country, but most of it seems to be 10 times less resolution. Apologies for the length! I won't apologize for my length. I'm partial to details and explanations over the all too common one-line quips and cute remarks devoid of any useful content. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#10
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On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 22:39:23 -0700 (PDT), Penang
wrote: Specifically, my interest is in the "broadcast" type of antenna ... trying to find a way to "extend" the range of a typical wifi basestation using antennas alone (maybe with the help of MIMO antennas), without "range repeaters" or whatnots. Broadcast implies one way transmissions. Wi-Fi is bi-directional. The common terms are "range extender" or "repeater". These normally refer to store and forward transmitter/receivers use to extend range by retransmitting the data. This is roughly how a MESH network operates. There are some severe limits and compromises to using such repeaters, none of which have anything to do with the antenna. Ask if you need details. My brain is now fully clogged, and I'm having difficulties digesting all the stuffs that I've gotten. One must suffer before enlightenment. You're doing fine. Is there a place (a forum, a website, a tutorial, and whatnots) where one can learn about antennas, without having one's brain clogged up, like mine right now? No. Brain damage is a known side effect and complication resulting from trying to digest the entire field of antenna design all at once. Just reading some of the posting in this newsgroup should adequately demonstrate the extent of the damage. I suggest you approach antenna design in the same manner as eating a loaf of bread. It's done one slice at a time. If you try to shove the entire loaf down your throat at once, you'll choke. What's your suggestion / opinion on how to construct an excellent (pair) of MIMO antenna for wifi (802.11 b/g/n) ? I suggest you give up immediately and read about how MIMO works. External MIMO antennas are a problem. There are two basic types of MIMO. One is called "beam forming", which uses an elaborate and flat array of internal antennas to customize the antenna pattern. Major lobes are pointed in the direction of users. Nulls are pointed in the direction of interference. The key point is that antennas are internal and therefore external antennas have no place to plug in. The other type is called "spatial diversity". It uses multiple antennas and multiple receivers to combine reflective signal paths. In theory, each path is independent and carry an independent data stream. Combining these paths results in enhanced speeds. Note that this form of MIMO is all about speed, not range. It is possible to attach external antennas to a spatial diversity type MIMO system. However, there are limitations. You can't just install 3 directional antennas pointed in 3 different directions. Pointed in opposing directions, the antennas will simply not pickup any reflections. If there are any long path reflections, the delays will probably be excessive and the data deemed useless. Attaching a single antenna to a MIMO spatial diversity type router will function, but only at 802.11g speeds. Without the time delayed reflections, there's no MIMO speeds. Anyway, I don't have any suggestions on how to construct an excellent antenna. You haven't specified what you're trying to accomplish, what you have to work with, what is your operating environment, and what problem you're trying to solve. Different types of antennas are designed to solve different problems. Without a clue as to the problem and limitations, it's rather difficult to select a suitable antenna. Hint: Forget about using "N" or MIMO with external antennas. Unless you're trying to move video, 802.11g speeds are good enough. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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