I've reworked and reinstalled my Bugcatcher antenna.

I'm having a bit of a problem with soldering the taps to the coils
though. Seems road oils and general tarnishing has made it a bit
difficult to get a clean soldering surface.

I know of a lot of ways to clean the surface, but most are a little
rough on the coil or time consuming.

Anyone have any tip or trick to get the surface clean, shiny, and easily
solderable?

note, I've tried some solvents without much luck, and any solvent has to
not eat up the plexi coil form. I've tried steel wool, but it can't get
to the interior of the coil, and regular sandpaper is going to eat the
wire up.

I have even considered an acid flux bath, followed by a long water
rinse, but that's always been verboten for electrical work.


- 73 d eMike N3LI -

On Wed, 01 Oct 2008 11:11:49 -0400, Michael Coslo
wrote:

I have even considered an acid flux bath, followed by a long water
rinse, but that's always been verboten for electrical work.

Hi Mike,

It seems you've been out of electronics production for a verrry
loooong time. Acid flux is commonly used for environmental reasons.

Try dipping it into a small portion of Coca Cola overnight. The
Phosphoric Acid in it will strip anything....

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC

Richard Clark wrote:
On Wed, 01 Oct 2008 11:11:49 -0400, Michael Coslo
wrote:

I have even considered an acid flux bath, followed by a long water
rinse, but that's always been verboten for electrical work.

Hi Mike,

It seems you've been out of electronics production for a verrry
loooong time. Acid flux is commonly used for environmental reasons.

35 years to be exact. We just about had it beat into us that you don't
use acids near electronics.

But it does stand to reason that a good water rinse will remove acid
flux very well. Certainly the flux removers for rosin can be
environmentally and health unfriendly.


Try dipping it into a small portion of Coca Cola overnight. The
Phosphoric Acid in it will strip anything....


Probably take about 3 liters for a Bugcatcher coil - around 6 inches
diameter, and about a foot in length.

But Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try tonight. Might use Pepsi
tho' ;^)

- 73 de Mike N3LI -

Michael Coslo wrote:

...
Anyone have any tip or trick to get the surface clean, shiny, and easily
solderable?
...
- 73 d eMike N3LI -

Jasco paint stripper? Will work for paint, road oil, road tar, plastic
insulation, etc.

For corrosion, Richards ideas seems plausible ... perhaps employ a
combination of methods?

The active ingredient is Methylene Chloride, cheap brands use lye; lye
just ain't that great, IMHO ...

Regards,
JS

"Richard Clark" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Oct 2008 11:11:49 -0400, Michael Coslo
wrote:

I have even considered an acid flux bath, followed by a long water
rinse, but that's always been verboten for electrical work.

Hi Mike,

It seems you've been out of electronics production for a verrry
loooong time. Acid flux is commonly used for environmental reasons.

Try dipping it into a small portion of Coca Cola overnight. The
Phosphoric Acid in it will strip anything....

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC

Hi Richard

I once made a small tub to hold the rusty part and filled it with a
solution of water and washing soda
(http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm) . A
small DC current is then conducted from a metal part in the solution to the
rusty part. The rusty part got shiny after a few hours.

Jerry KD6JDJ

On Wed, 01 Oct 2008 16:00:10 GMT, "Jerry"
wrote:
I once made a small tub to hold the rusty part and filled it with a
solution of water and washing soda
(http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm) . A
small DC current is then conducted from a metal part in the solution to the
rusty part. The rusty part got shiny after a few hours.

Hi Jerry,

That's a another arrow for the quiver. Thanx.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC

On Wed, 01 Oct 2008 11:11:49 -0400, Michael Coslo
wrote:

note, I've tried some solvents without much luck, and any solvent has to
not eat up the plexi coil form. I've tried steel wool, but it can't get
to the interior of the coil, and regular sandpaper is going to eat the
wire up.

Assuming you want to avoid an aggressive chemical attack, methinks
you're on the right track. Instead of steel wool, emery cloth, or
sandpaper, use a damp cloth and some abrasive kitchen cleanser
(Comet). Wrap the small cloth between two of the turns (using a
tweezer to pull it through), apply some cleanser, and alternately pull
on the ends back and forth. Kinda like shoe polishing. The cleanser
should remove any grease and grind off any oxidation without removing
the wire plating. When done, wash with water and let dry before
soldering.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jerry wrote:

Hi Richard

I once made a small tub to hold the rusty part and filled it with a
solution of water and washing soda
(http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm) . A
small DC current is then conducted from a metal part in the solution to the
rusty part. The rusty part got shiny after a few hours.

Jerry KD6JDJ

Neat idea. Washing soda (sodium carbonate) is sold at paint stores as
TSP substitute.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Michael Coslo wrote:
I have even considered an acid flux bath, followed by a long water
rinse, but that's always been verboten for electrical work.

FWIW, I "pickle" the heavily oxidized copper antenna
wire I have to solder by wrapping a paper-towel sheet
around the joint, pouring a tablespoon of "Lime Away"
on it, waiting half an hour and then unwrapping and
rinsing it throughly with tap water. The copper has
a reddish, 'blistered' look and soaks up solder like
a sponge. I make it a point to tin all of the "pickled"
copper on either side of the joint as well as the joint
itself.

The prohibition against using 'acid-core' solder on
electronics was that the acid flux was actually a solid,
would remain on the connection and be activated
by moisture later, eating away the connection and
the wires. The active acid in "Lime Away" is good
old sulfuric, which is washed away in this case by
liberal amounts of applied water or later rainfall.

Jim, K7JEB

"Michael Coslo" wrote in message
...
Certainly the flux removers for rosin can be
environmentally and health unfriendly.

Ethyl alcohol works for me. Maybe mass fumes are bad in a production
setting but I just dunk a cotton swab in it to clean up after a little
soldering job.