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Cecil Moore[_2_] January 8th 09 06:48 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
wrote:
When comparing the ladder line and tuner system vs the
coax system, if I had a signal that was 40 db over S9
on the tuner system, it would bump up to about 45 db over
S9 with the coax feed.


Balanced tuner or balun plus unbalanced tuner?
If balun, what kind? Was the balun seeing its
designed-for impedance?

What do you think would be the A/B results for
a resonant coax-fed dipole vs my notuner dipole?

http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com

[email protected] January 8th 09 08:29 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
On Jan 8, 11:31*am, Roy Lewallen wrote:


But amateurs tend to use multiband antennas without any thought at all
to radiation pattern. When the frequency gets considerably higher than a
dipole's resonant frequency, the pattern changes. So there's a good
chance that the pattern will have nulls in at least some directions
where you might want to communicate. In those cases, the difference
between a half wavelength dipole and much longer dipole can be striking.


That's another reason why I prefer the separate elements for multi
band use, vs the single wire.
I generally prefer the normal dipole pattern on most of the bands
I use.



It's relatively easy to measure tuner efficiency when it's working into
a nice resistive load. But I'm curious about how you measured the power
the tuner was delivering to a more realistic non-resonant load
impedance. The only way I can think of to do it with any semblance of
accuracy is to connect two identical tuners back-to-back and measure the
power out of the combination. Is that how you did it? If not, how?


It's been so long since I did that, I forgot exactly how I came to
that conclusion.
But I think I was using my resonant coax fed dipole as the load,
and pretty sure I had dual watt meters. One before the tuner,
and another after the tuner. The tuner has an antenna switch
to bypass the tuner.
I believe what I did was measure the power on both meters with
the tuner bypassed, and then tried using the tuner as a "line
flattener", more than an actual tuner, being the system was
already resonant.
I tried various settings of the tuner, trying quite a few variations
in inductance vs cap settings to see if I could notice much loss
with the tuner inline. The radio was my old IC 730 and I used
full power for the tests. The meter after the radio was used to
verify the appx power from the radio, and it stayed fairly constant
in all the tests. The meter after the tuner was used to check
the power at that point in the line.
In all cases, the tuner would indicate a "flat" match with all
the various settings, so any variation in the output of the
radio should have been small, and the meter after it verified
this.
But the meter on the other side of the tuner could vary
anywhere from about 20% less, to almost unnoticeable
difference, depending on the inductance setting of the tuner.
This test didn't tell me much about the losses using
non resonant loads fed with ladder line, but I suspect that
the loss would still be greatly defendant on the inductance
setting.
I would think the loss would greatly vary just depending
on the load at the moment. Could be high, as if feeding a
half size dipole with a T network tuner, or pretty low with
other longer wire lengths.
I didn't try to worry about the exact loss in numbers, but
I could see the problem cropping up fairly easy if one were
lazy about using the least inductance setting, or if using a
tuner with a tapped coil that was not the optimum setting.
My tuner uses a roller inductor, which lets me tune to
exactly the best spot on the coil, but some tuners tap
and switch the coil position. With some of those, loss
could be more noticeable if it's compromise setting was
way off from optimum.
Another thing I noticed that was it didn't take a whole
lot of extra inductance for the losses to begin to show.
Basically, I found there is only one tuner setting that
will give you fairly low loss in such a case. The one
using the least inductance to get a usable match
for the radio. All the other settings would show quite
a bit more loss, and it didn't take too much more
inductance to start seeing 10-15-20 % decreases in
output from the tuner. And all these settings show
a perfect match to the radio.
But if using the least inductance in such a case, the
meter reading was so close as to almost be the same
vs bypassing the tuner.
So you can use a tuner and have low loss if you
are careful about tuning.
Sure, even 20% won't make much of a difference on
the other end, but I'd prefer not to lose it none the less.
I'm usually on the noisy lower bands, and I rarely run
an amp anymore. That's why I insist on every drop.
In the summer, I usually need every drop.. :/
I also prefer coax anyway just due to the convenience.
But if I run ladder line, I run ladder line the whole way.
I don't like running coax to ladder line. I either use
one or the other.








[email protected] January 8th 09 08:36 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
On Jan 8, 12:48*pm, Cecil Moore wrote:
wrote:
When comparing the ladder line and tuner system vs the
coax system, if I had a signal that was 40 db over S9
on the tuner system, it would bump up to about 45 db over
S9 with the coax feed.


Balanced tuner or balun plus unbalanced tuner?
If balun, what kind? Was the balun seeing its
designed-for impedance?

What do you think would be the A/B results for
a resonant coax-fed dipole vs my notuner dipole?


Probably about the same. In theory you would have
slightly less loss than the coax, but at the lower
frequencies even the coax has very low loss.
So being the losses for both are very low, I don't think
you would be able to see much difference.
Or that's my gut hunch anyway..
Yours would probably be better than the coax if the
run was several hundred feet. At that distance, the
slight difference might begin to show up more.
Also if used at fairly high frequencies, you might
have an advantage. Depends on how good the coax
is how much it would be.





Dave[_18_] January 9th 09 01:46 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
Ed Cregger wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message



If I did want to use non-resonant antennas I would locate a tuner at the
antenna feedpoint, not at the generator (transmitter).



Then you would cheat yourself of a fair amount of propagation and some of
the lower and higher frequencies available with such a set up.

You're not going to keep RF out of the shack, regardless of which system you
use. You might be able to keep some of the hot spots outside, but often
times they are close enough to the station that it is really a waste of
time.

This fascination with resonance is a leftover from CB thinking. How many
warships utilize resonant antennas? Yet they communicate the world over.

The aversion to transmatches is a ham cultural trait that has no basis in
reality, just as the CB'ers are hooked on resonant 50 ohm antennas. It's a
characteristic of the culture(s) of both types of operators, with no basis
in practical operating engineering.

Ed, N2ECW


You don't read very well. And you seem a tad hostile.

I stated no "aversion" whatsoever to what are called "non-resonant"
antennas. I said that I'd locate the tuner at the antenna feedpoint. A
transmatch between the radio and the transmission line does little to
make the antenna work better.

CB thinking? You really have issues.

Cecil Moore[_2_] January 9th 09 02:24 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
Dave wrote:
A transmatch between the radio and the transmission
line does little to make the antenna work better.


That statement is true for a very lossy system but
not necessarily true for low-loss real-world systems.

Establishing a conjugate match at the antenna feedpoint
makes the antenna work better by allowing maximum
available power transfer to the antenna. A remote
autotuner at the base of the antenna can accomplish
that feat.

There seems to be developing the myth that a tuner
at the shack cannot accomplish that feat. Although
strictly technically true, a low-loss tuner and low-loss
transmission line can come close enough to achieving a
conjugate match at the antenna that almost all of the
available power is transferred to the antenna (if losses
are made negligible by good engineering practice).

It can be proved mathematically that in a lossless
system, a conjugate match is established at the
antenna feedpoint by the tuner located back in the
shack. A near-conjugate match is established in the
case of a low-loss system resulting in near-maximum
available power transfer to the antenna.
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com

[email protected] January 9th 09 03:16 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
On Jan 9, 8:24*am, Cecil Moore wrote:


There seems to be developing the myth that a tuner
at the shack cannot accomplish that feat. Although
strictly technically true, a low-loss tuner and low-loss
transmission line can come close enough to achieving a
conjugate match at the antenna that almost all of the
available power is transferred to the antenna (if losses
are made negligible by good engineering practice).

It can be proved mathematically that in a lossless
system, a conjugate match is established at the
antenna feedpoint by the tuner located back in the
shack. A near-conjugate match is established in the
case of a low-loss system resulting in near-maximum
available power transfer to the antenna.
--
73, Cecil *http://www.w5dxp.com


Judging from my mobile antenna tinkering, I'd have to
say that is true.
As an example, with a short run of coax that feeds
the antenna, you would think that it would be required
to place the matching device or tuner at the feed point
of the vertical. And strictly speaking, it would be the
best place for it.
But... I've found that you can have very good results
if the tuner is at the radio end of the coax.
In actual operation, there seems to be little difference
in performance.
But the short piece of coax "maybe 10 ft long" is
fairly low loss on the lower HF frequencies.
So it's not a lossless system, but fairly low loss
considering the frequency and short length of
the line.
But if I run a long coax to the same antenna, I
would prefer to keep the tuner at the same place, in
front of the short 10 ft piece, and then run my long
cable from the radio to the tuner, which is still at
the car.
I often did this when using the radio at picnic
tables, tents, while using the mobile antenna on
the car.
My most recent installs on the two trucks place
the matching device at the antenna.
But in my older car I once used, I used the tuner
at the radio end. It was convenient, and let me
fine tune the match while driving.
There seems to be little difference in performance
that I can see using the short fairly low loss pieces
of coax. Not much difference where I place the
tuner. So this tends to back up your theory.







Ed Cregger January 9th 09 03:28 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 

"Dave" wrote in message
m...
Ed Cregger wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message



If I did want to use non-resonant antennas I would locate a tuner at the
antenna feedpoint, not at the generator (transmitter).



Then you would cheat yourself of a fair amount of propagation and some of
the lower and higher frequencies available with such a set up.

You're not going to keep RF out of the shack, regardless of which system
you use. You might be able to keep some of the hot spots outside, but
often times they are close enough to the station that it is really a
waste of time.

This fascination with resonance is a leftover from CB thinking. How many
warships utilize resonant antennas? Yet they communicate the world over.

The aversion to transmatches is a ham cultural trait that has no basis in
reality, just as the CB'ers are hooked on resonant 50 ohm antennas. It's
a characteristic of the culture(s) of both types of operators, with no
basis in practical operating engineering.

Ed, N2ECW


You don't read very well. And you seem a tad hostile.

I stated no "aversion" whatsoever to what are called "non-resonant"
antennas. I said that I'd locate the tuner at the antenna feedpoint. A
transmatch between the radio and the transmission line does little to make
the antenna work better.

CB thinking? You really have issues.


-----------

Actually, I read very well.

We are talking on a worldwide forum. Folks that take every single comment
personally have missed that point of view and usually react negatively, as
you.

If I wanted to raise hell and berate someone, this would be the last usenet
group that I would use. Most folks here are scientifically oriented and
would be no fun to irritate.

I am interested in two-way radio cultures. I own and use CB radios in
addition to my amateur gear. I had my FCC commercial ticket long before
encountering CB or ham radio. I was introduced to two-way radio while in the
USAF, so my view of the cultures is quite different than many civilian radio
cultures. No insult was or is intended.

When I say someone is oriented toward radio in a CB fashion, it is not
necessarily an insult. Why would I insult myself?

I may be a bit hostile, that's true. Anyone in the amount of pain that I am
in (and there are certainly millions with worse pain than mine) will be a
bit short or curt at times. My apologies.

The marketing campaigns for CB gear in the seventies placed emphasis on a 50
ohm match with a resonant antenna. Many CB folks received all of their
education in radio via those commercials.

Many hams, especially those that came from CB, would probably faint if they
knew that commercial broadcast stations often have an "antenna tuner" at the
base of their broadcast antennas. After all, tuners are no good, right? That
was one of the points that I was trying to make. Kind of a preemptive strike
on my part to reduce the number of complaints about folks running a dipole
antenna configuration while using twinlead feedline with a transmatch at the
station. I was not picking on you, nor was I trying to show you in a bad
light.

Ed, N2ECW




Cecil Moore[_2_] January 9th 09 08:02 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
wrote:
But if I run a long coax to the same antenna, I
would prefer to keep the tuner at the same place, in
front of the short 10 ft piece, and then run my long
cable from the radio to the tuner, which is still at
the car.


When the SWR is not 1:1 but is of a reasonable value:
A short coax run is usually low-loss. A long coax run
is usually not low-loss. When the tuner is located at
the transmitter, the near-conjugate match at the
antenna can only be achieved in a low-loss system.
Open-wire HF transmission line systems are usually
low-loss systems.
--
73, Cecil
http://www.w5dxp.com

Ed Cregger January 11th 09 09:46 AM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 

"Cecil Moore" wrote

If one doesn't know what magnitude of impedance is
being encountered by the balun, the best balun
solution is a husky 1:1 current (choke) balun, not
a 4:1 voltage balun which is designed to deal with
200 ohms, not 2000+j2000 ohms.
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com


-----------

I used to be good at this stuff, Cecil, but that was long ago.

The only balun that has worked with any success so far has been the built-in
balun (4:1 allegedly) in my MFJ-989C. That I can get to work. When hooking
up other baluns and using the coax output on my tuner, none of the other
baluns work worth a hoot with one exception. I have an LDG 1:1 200 watt
balun that will tune my Van Gordon All Bander from one end to the other of
the HF spectrum, using just the internal tuner of my Yaesu FT-890AT. Go
figure.

I used to be a fairly sharp cookie at this stuff, but those days are in the
past. Got a serious case of "brick brain syndrome", if you know what I mean?

To my way of thinking (which is probably incorrect), using the 4:1 balun
would broaden the impedances that I could match versus the 1:1 balun. What
you are saying is just the opposite. Please elaborate. I will be most
grateful.

Ed, N2ECW



Cecil Moore[_2_] January 11th 09 02:59 PM

Installing a Ladder Line to the house
 
Ed Cregger wrote:
I have an LDG 1:1 200 watt
balun that will tune my Van Gordon All Bander from one end to the other of
the HF spectrum, using just the internal tuner of my Yaesu FT-890AT. Go
figure.


If this is the 80m dipole with 100' of ladder-line, one
can look at my notuner all-band-HF antenna to see why
100' is a good fixed length for the ladder-line. 100'
is near a current maximum point (loop) on all HF bands.
If one varies the length of the ladder-line from 90' to
115', one doesn't even need a tuner and a 1:1 current-
balun-choke is ideal.

http://www.w5dxp.com/pnts130.gif

To my way of thinking (which is probably incorrect), using the 4:1 balun
would broaden the impedances that I could match versus the 1:1 balun. What
you are saying is just the opposite. Please elaborate. I will be most
grateful.


A 4:1 balun is a very good transformer over a narrow range.
Most are voltage baluns that do not balance currents and
therefore do little to discourage common-mode currents. Test
a balun looking into 2000+j2000 and see what happens. One
of my 4:1 baluns got so hot I couldn't touch the case. The
best balun design, IMO, is one where flux in the ferrite
is caused only by common-mode current and not by
differential-mode current.

Here's some useful information:

http://www.dxengineering.com/TechArticles.asp?ID={3E5220F7-2D0F-45B5-85F7-3B654F804C4F}
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com


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