1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.
Any ideas on this?

2. The far end of the antenna will be hanging from and in
the branches of a tree. I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

3. I'll be running the wire from inside my suite through
a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?
I'd ask the management but I don't want to trigger them
into realization that future QRM will probably be
emanating from my 'shack'! I plan to work the world
while remaining invisible to those around me. If asked,
I'll just explain that the wire is an antenna for my short wave
receiver!!!!

This is the first time I've had to use a store bought rig!
Until now I've either had modified surplus or burned out
rigs which I rebuilt. I've always been an advocate of
low power, but real QRP is new to me too -- and I equate
it to the difference between dynamiting ponds and fly fishing!
Time will tell! :-) When I became ill I gave away all my
50+ years accumulation of valuable ham radio equipment,
tools, test equipment, and books -- collectively A.K.A.
"Junk". It's fun starting from scratch -- at least my shack
is not a terrible mess -- YET!

Do folks still mail QSL cards? Or can I settle for emailing
a graphic equivalent of my own design? I've been off the air
for a couple years now and think that things may have changed
while I was out of the picture. This is not a big problem as
printing and using the local buro shouldn't be too much of
a problem. The hundreds of rare QSL's coming into my
mailbox my invite unanticipated curiosity from the
management.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have. This
is the first time I've run through a metal window frame or
dropped the wire into and among the branches of a tree.

73

Irv VE6BP
Calgary, AB

Just a hair away from being on the air again!

On 4/22/2012 7:29 PM, Irv Finkleman wrote:
1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.
Any ideas on this?

Dunno.. From what I notice, lighter colors may blend with the
sky at times, but they also reflect light more, which can cause
the wire to stand out more at certain times of the day.


2. The far end of the antenna will be hanging from and in
the branches of a tree. I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

No problem with that.. 5 watts is not enough power to start
anything on fire.. Even 100w will have trouble doing that in
most cases. Only when I was running high power have I noticed
arcing and burning of tree branches touching the ends of antennas.
You can use almost anything as an insulator and should have no
problems with QRP.


3. I'll be running the wire from inside my suite through
a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

I suppose that would work ok.. or maybe run and melt some thin
heat shrink tubing at that point..


4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?
I'd ask the management but I don't want to trigger them
into realization that future QRM will probably be
emanating from my 'shack'! I plan to work the world
while remaining invisible to those around me. If asked,
I'll just explain that the wire is an antenna for my short wave
receiver!!!!

Glass is fairly RF invisible I think.. Should be no issue.


This is the first time I've had to use a store bought rig!
Until now I've either had modified surplus or burned out
rigs which I rebuilt. I've always been an advocate of
low power, but real QRP is new to me too -- and I equate
it to the difference between dynamiting ponds and fly fishing!
Time will tell! :-) When I became ill I gave away all my
50+ years accumulation of valuable ham radio equipment,
tools, test equipment, and books -- collectively A.K.A.
"Junk". It's fun starting from scratch -- at least my shack
is not a terrible mess -- YET!

Low power can do fine if the antenna is decent.


Do folks still mail QSL cards? Or can I settle for emailing
a graphic equivalent of my own design? I've been off the air
for a couple years now and think that things may have changed
while I was out of the picture. This is not a big problem as
printing and using the local buro shouldn't be too much of
a problem. The hundreds of rare QSL's coming into my
mailbox my invite unanticipated curiosity from the
management.

I don't do QSL cards myself.. In fact, I've never sent anyone a
QSL card ever.. And I don't need any to send me one, but of course
still many do.. The CW contacts are much more likely to generate
QSL cards than the typical phone jabber..
The way I look at it, is I know I worked the people.. I don't
need paper proof of it.. :/
Maybe you could get a PO box, and assign it as your new mail
address, and have someone check the mail every once in a while.

"NM5K" wrote in message
...
On 4/22/2012 7:29 PM, Irv Finkleman wrote:
1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.
Any ideas on this?

Dunno.. From what I notice, lighter colors may blend with the
sky at times, but they also reflect light more, which can cause
the wire to stand out more at certain times of the day.

I've considered that. The stretch from my window to where the
wire will enter the tree is such that there will be no one below, and
anyone walking in the area and looking up will be looking mainly
toward the building which is various shades of brown. The chance
of anyone seeing the wire against the sky is very small if at all. I'll try
that
light brown or beige first but it will be easy to change. The only
real time involved has been in planning what to do.


2. The far end of the antenna will be hanging from and in
the branches of a tree. I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

No problem with that.. 5 watts is not enough power to start
anything on fire.. Even 100w will have trouble doing that in
most cases. Only when I was running high power have I noticed
arcing and burning of tree branches touching the ends of antennas.
You can use almost anything as an insulator and should have no
problems with QRP.

I sort of figured that, but your confirmation is indeed welcome. In
fact, Mark, I'm really pleased to see your reply because I've always
enjoyed your opinions and advice on antennas.


3. I'll be running the wire from inside my suite through
a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

I suppose that would work ok.. or maybe run and melt some thin
heat shrink tubing at that point..


Until something better comes along, reinforcing the wire with some
heat shrink tubing, and running it through a heavy soda straw should
do the trick -- in fact now that I think of it, you can buy heavy straws
for kids and I'll pick one up tomorrow.


4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?
I'd ask the management but I don't want to trigger them
into realization that future QRM will probably be
emanating from my 'shack'! I plan to work the world
while remaining invisible to those around me. If asked,
I'll just explain that the wire is an antenna for my short wave
receiver!!!!

Glass is fairly RF invisible I think.. Should be no issue.

I'm still not sure on that either -- I've heard that leaded glass
can be a problem, but I'm not even sure what kind of glass is
in these windows. As it is, I'm not pushing RF through the
windows, but have considered a small magnetic loop located
inside, in which case I'd like to know.

This is the first time I've had to use a store bought rig!
Until now I've either had modified surplus or burned out
rigs which I rebuilt. I've always been an advocate of
low power, but real QRP is new to me too -- and I equate
it to the difference between dynamiting ponds and fly fishing!
Time will tell! :-) When I became ill I gave away all my
50+ years accumulation of valuable ham radio equipment,
tools, test equipment, and books -- collectively A.K.A.
"Junk". It's fun starting from scratch -- at least my shack
is not a terrible mess -- YET!

Low power can do fine if the antenna is decent.

I have a chum who was running an FT-101 here in town
through a G5RV 3 feet or so above his roof. He was one of
the top DXers in town. One day he suggested that things weren't
quite right so I went over to have a look. I told him to tune up
whilie I watched. He went through the correct tuneup procedure
as per the book, but never readjusted the Carrier Level adjustment
when he began operating. I had him repeat the procedure and
the same thing again! It turned out that the Manual doesn't really
tell you what to do beyone the tuning point so he left things as
is, and worked mucho countries running only 15 watts! It
goes to show what lower power can do, and also that what you
don't know won't hurt you!!! Once, in my shack, I set my rig
on 20m with about 5 watts of output. I made a call, and got
an immediate answer from a fellow who I had elmered back
in the early 70's!!!! We'd lost touch for all those years and had
been looking for each other. I was here in Calgary, he was down
in Silicon Valley!!


Do folks still mail QSL cards? Or can I settle for emailing
a graphic equivalent of my own design? I've been off the air
for a couple years now and think that things may have changed
while I was out of the picture. This is not a big problem as
printing and using the local buro shouldn't be too much of
a problem. The hundreds of rare QSL's coming into my
mailbox my invite unanticipated curiosity from the
management.

I don't do QSL cards myself.. In fact, I've never sent anyone a
QSL card ever.. And I don't need any to send me one, but of course
still many do.. The CW contacts are much more likely to generate
QSL cards than the typical phone jabber..
The way I look at it, is I know I worked the people.. I don't
need paper proof of it.. :/
Maybe you could get a PO box, and assign it as your new mail
address, and have someone check the mail every once in a while.

I seldom QSL'ed unless requested, but I do a lot of CW work
(almost as much as phone) I'll play it by ear in the meantime.
One sad thing about QSLing -- when I got ill, my brother and
sister had a big sale and sold a lot of ham stuff (the rest I donated
to the local ham club). Some stuff that I would like to have kept
disappeared -- whether sold or not I don't know and never will,
but my collection of QSL cards going back to 1958 and over
four callsigns went somewhere -- my logbooks too! Such is
life, but I'm just lucky to be able to start life over again and have
the fun of doing it! This is really net -- back to basics and
climbing the ladder again! At least I never had DXCC to lose!

Thanks again for your thought provoking and sage
reply.Much appreciated!

Irv VE6BP

On 4/22/2012 8:27 PM, Irv Finkleman wrote:
It turned out that the Manual doesn't really
tell you what to do beyone the tuning point so he left things as
is, and worked mucho countries running only 15 watts!

I used to use a little FT-7 transceiver portable quite often,
and it was about a 20w input radio, and did about 10 watts out
on most bands.
Using any decent antenna, I never had any trouble working the
people I wanted to, and this was usually on 40 and 80 meters
using NVIS paths.
I remember one time I was camping out at Lake Amistad near Del Rio,TX.
I rigged up a dipole for 80m, and had it hanging between two short
trees. The antenna was only about 5 ft off the ground it's whole
length. Even with that low antenna, and the appx 10w output on SSB,
I was still in the S9+ range to most of the various people I was
talking to in say San Antonio, Dallas, etc..
For those type conditions, I would generally prefer 100w, but 10w
will usually get it done if need be. Only on the noisier nights
might it be a real issue where the extra power is needed.
These days my portable rig is the 100w Icom 706mk2g. And of course,
I can adjust the output power level to whatever I want.. I think the
minimum it will do is around 5 watts or so.. maybe slightly less..
But unless I'm worried about my battery, I let it rip at 100w..
The battery is rarely an issue as I usually can charge it off the
vehicle every once in a while.

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:29:28 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)

No, but you can easily dye vinyl or PVC insulation in whatever colors
you find useful. I once built a wire striping machine, that produced
a red and white "candy cane" pattern. Please don't ask why.

I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.

I think you mean contrast, not contract.

There are vendors that sell "stealth" antenna wire. It has a copper
plated steel core wire and clear insulation. Or, just the copperweld
wire, and no insulation.
http://www.universal-radio.com/CAtalog/cable/polystealth.html
http://fushicopperweld.com/en/bimetallics.html

Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

If you drill through the wall, drill at a slight angle so that water
will drain out of the wall, rather than into the wall. Use PVC
electrical conduit parts for the feedthrough.

4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?

Yes. Read the label on the window. If it says Low-E glass, it's
probably coated with Titanium Nitride to reflect infrared. TiN is
about 40 ohms per square, which is highly lossy at RF. You can test
it with a cell phone. Compare the signal strength on both sides of
the window. If there's a drastic drop in level through the window,
you have Low-E glass. Note that all new construction and remodels in
California have required Low-E glass for the last 10 years or so.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Low-E-titanium-nitide-glass.pdf

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 19:28:20 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:29:28 -0600, "Irv Finkleman" wrote:

4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?

Yes. Read the label on the window. If it says Low-E glass, it's
probably coated with Titanium Nitride to reflect infrared. TiN is
about 40 ohms per square, which is highly lossy at RF. You can test
it with a cell phone. Compare the signal strength on both sides of
the window. If there's a drastic drop in level through the window,
you have Low-E glass. Note that all new construction and remodels in
California have required Low-E glass for the last 10 years or so.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Low-E-titanium-nitide-glass.pdf

Using Google Groups (gag...) advanced search:

http://groups.google.com/advanced_search?q=&

search using Message ID:



This is a recent topic discussed in alt.internet.wireless.

HTH
Jonesy

"Irv Finkleman" wrote in message
...


snip

... I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

Experience: I built a 10m sleeve dipole from copper pipe and I was
justifiably concerned about voltage at the end where the feedline entered,
so I encased the coaxial feedline in a length of PVC pipe. It acted as a
separator.

This arrangement necessitated making one element larger than planned, so to
accomodate the PVC, but it apparently worked. I never suffered an
arc-through.

Today: If you were to secure the tree-end of your wire entirely within a
length of PVC pipe, you would guarantee a separation of enter PVC wall
thickness here millimeters from anything else. If you then glue some
additional PVC fittings onto this "insulator," you can use them for
mechanical attachment to whatever in the trees. Either that or hang the
PVC from/within tree branches.

Good luck

"Sal"

Sal and Jeff, (and Mark)

Thanks for your thoughts and input on my intended
system.

Jeff -- I did mean contrast -- my darned keyboard is
getting old and confused, just like me!

I just want something quick and cheap so I've ruled out
anything like copper clad steel and such. In my years of
antenna experimentation, I would set up the system, test
it, and even though it worked well, could not resist the
temptation to 'fix' it by tearing it down and setting up a
new and supposedly improved MKII version. I never
got much more gain or efficiency, but still had fun.

Just to clear things up on the geometry, the wire will run
out the window horizontally to the tree (about 25 ft) and
then drop vertically (another 25 ft approx) through the
tree to just above the
ground. Sort of an inverted letter "L". It is just a
random wire, and the best I can do at the moment
given my current situation.

The hole through the window frame is too small (1/4 in.)
for conduit but I plan to use a heavy plastic kids drinking
straw, tilted down on the outside, and plugged with some
silicon seal at each end where the wire enters and exits.

That reminds me of a friend who drilled horizontally through
his foundation and drove an 8 foot ground rod through it.
The first rainfall seemed to find it an ideal means of
draining the back yard into his basement and he ended
up with about 4 inches of water in his basement!

Jeff -- thanks for the tip on testing the glass. I can't see
any markings on it, but the test is quick and simple and
will soon let me know if I want to follow up with antennas
inside the window. I may even try loading the window
frame (aluminum, 5 ft x 5 ft (approx)) using a handy
sheet metal screw for the connection.

Sal -- I've built a number of monoband sleeve dipoles by
simply sliding back the braid on the coax. They were always
great performers, but in this case I think they might be
too obvious -- stealth is the primary concern here.

A reminder -- the ground system will be tuned counterpoise
wires running along the wall inside my apartment. I have an
MFJ-1623 tuner which will handle tuning the antenna and
the counterpoise in a very nice compact arrangement with
only one meter to watch!

Mark, NM5K has already calmed my concerns re corona and
a reenactment of the burning bush bit, however I will
cover the last few inches of the dangling portion with
some heat shrink tubing, A small loop in the end will
allow me to fasten the end with a plastic cable tie.

I'm really having fun with the planning stage -- with all
this taken care of beforehand I will hopefully be up and
on the air tomorrow. Only one factor can hold me back,
and that is that the sale of my condo concludes tomorrow,
and at the same time we have a very much contested
Provincial election -- the equivalent of your state
elections. In between I hope to gather the
necessary materials and get operational.

Thanks again guys for your trouble and assistance.
It's all food for thought and I appreciate it. I'm really
having fun and don't even have any wire out the window yet!

73

Irv VE6BP

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 23:18:17 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I just want something quick and cheap so I've ruled out
anything like copper clad steel and such.

Will your 25ft span of copper wire support a few birds? If not,
please reconsider copperweld.

Just to clear things up on the geometry, the wire will run
out the window horizontally to the tree (about 25 ft) and
then drop vertically (another 25 ft approx) through the
tree to just above the
ground. Sort of an inverted letter "L". It is just a
random wire, and the best I can do at the moment
given my current situation.

Do you have an antenna tuner? The FT-817ND does not have a built in
antenna tuner. You're going to need one with your random wire and
random configuration.

The hole through the window frame is too small (1/4 in.)
for conduit but I plan to use a heavy plastic kids drinking
straw, tilted down on the outside, and plugged with some
silicon seal at each end where the wire enters and exits.

Ummm... is this an existing hole are you going to drill a new hole?
The modern windows that I've seen have the glass extend almost to the
edge of the frame with only a sheet rubber spacer in between. You're
highly likely to drill through the glass if you decide to drill the
frame.

I may even try loading the window
frame (aluminum, 5 ft x 5 ft (approx)) using a handy
sheet metal screw for the connection.

With 5 watts, that might work. Forget about building a magnetically
coupled loop. You would need to split the frame at some point, and
install a variable capacitor. That's probably not going to happen.

If your window proves to be uncoated glass (unlikely), you might
consider two squares of aluminum foil on both sides of the window to
couple through the RF via a ladder line. You won't get much
capacitance so it won't work on the lower frequencies, but should be
tolerable for the higher bands.

A reminder -- the ground system will be tuned counterpoise
wires running along the wall inside my apartment. I have an
MFJ-1623 tuner which will handle tuning the antenna and
the counterpoise in a very nice compact arrangement with
only one meter to watch!

Good, you have a tuner. However, that's designed specifically to
handle a 12ft balcony mount HF antenna. I don't know what it will do
with a longer antenna. Looking at the schematic:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/pdffiles/MFJ-1623.pdf
it seems to be a crude L match, which isn't going to match every
combination of reactance and frequency. The meter does NOT indicate
VSWR, so you really won't know if the tuner is effective. My
guess(tm) is you're going to purchasing a more elaborate antenna
tuner, a VSWR meter, or using a 12ft piece of wire.

I once used a large sheet of WELDED chicken wire under the carpet for
a "ground". It has to be welded to prevent the galvanizing from
forming diodes. It sorta worked but nobody wanted the lumpy carpet.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

It's a new hole -- two days old now though. I am using an MFJ-1623
tuner which also includes tuning for the counterpoise ground which I'll be
using.

The wire will be enough to hold one small bird -- if necessary
I can always rebuild with heavier wire (the MKII version
I mentioned before)!

I checked carefully before I drilled and missed the glass
entirely which is unusual because Murphy lives with me! I've
never seen him, but his influence is always around!

The magnetic loop would not be using the
window frame -- I have some 1/2 inch flexible
copper tubing which I brought from my condo
(which will officially be off my books at noon today!)

Last week we had a flea market in Calgary. Having given
away all my precious ham radio parts (aka junk) I was in dire
need of a roller inductor and a variable capacitor or two
to build (if necessary) an artificial ground, or a matching
device of some sort for whatever purpose I might dream up.

I walked into the market, paid my admission, and the first
thing I saw was a box (about 4 cu ft) of variable caps of
assorted shapes and sizes. I bent down to have a closer
look since I could hardly believe my eyes, and asked the
seller 'How Much?' At the same time, I noticed another
box of the same size full of assorted inductors, some
roller inductors, some coil forms, some coil stock and
such. It was like a dream come true. The seller
responded '20 bucks for the whole box' and I asked
'How about 20 bucks for both boxes' and he
accepted! Talk about a lucky find -- some of that
stuff is hard to find nowadays, and to purchase would
cost a fortune. I have both boxes in the trunk of my
car as there is little room in my suite to allow me to
start collecting parts aka junk! I've brought the cream
of the crop up to my suite and have cleaned them off
using an electric toothbrush and a mildly abrasive
cleaner -- they look like new. I now have sufficient
L and C, both fixed and variable, or every sort and
description to keep me happy for a long while. The
rest I will store in my brother's garage until the next
flea market where I intend to recoup my $20 bucks
plus the admission price!

I've tested the MFJ-1623 and it will work 80 thru
10M with the wire -- the wire is basically the same as
the 12 foot whip only longer but thinner. If it doesn't,
I have another MFJ-949E which I got as junk because
the coil switch was burned (I replaced it in an hour
with a new single pole 12 position) and it's been
tested and used by a friend of mine for the last
couple years. If one or the other works or doesn't,
I've got all that LC stuff from the flea market so
if necessary I can put together enough to load a
wet noodle.

I did load a wet noodle once, and worked from
Penhold AB to Red Deer AB (about 10 miles)
just to show it could be done! I love antennas.

Does anyone recall reading a book on antennas
that had a Chapter subtitle saying 'Antennas are
Funny People!'? I'd love to find the book again.

My carpeting is wall to wall, so the chicken wire
ground would have to be on top of the carpet. I'm
sure though, that if anyone asked, I would simply
explain 'I'm a Ham' and they would shake their
heads understandingly and not ask any more
foolish questions!

One way or the other, with the planned
setup, I intend to get some signals out -- come
hell or high water. I don't give up on my hobby
after all these years, and I've helped many a ham
get on the air under worse (but not much worse)
circumstances.

Gotta get downstairs and vote -- we are having
our provincial election today!

73

Irv VE6BP
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 23:18:17 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I just want something quick and cheap so I've ruled out
anything like copper clad steel and such.

Will your 25ft span of copper wire support a few birds? If not,
please reconsider copperweld.

Just to clear things up on the geometry, the wire will run
out the window horizontally to the tree (about 25 ft) and
then drop vertically (another 25 ft approx) through the
tree to just above the
ground. Sort of an inverted letter "L". It is just a
random wire, and the best I can do at the moment
given my current situation.

Do you have an antenna tuner? The FT-817ND does not have a built in
antenna tuner. You're going to need one with your random wire and
random configuration.

The hole through the window frame is too small (1/4 in.)
for conduit but I plan to use a heavy plastic kids drinking
straw, tilted down on the outside, and plugged with some
silicon seal at each end where the wire enters and exits.

Ummm... is this an existing hole are you going to drill a new hole?
The modern windows that I've seen have the glass extend almost to the
edge of the frame with only a sheet rubber spacer in between. You're
highly likely to drill through the glass if you decide to drill the
frame.

I may even try loading the window
frame (aluminum, 5 ft x 5 ft (approx)) using a handy
sheet metal screw for the connection.

With 5 watts, that might work. Forget about building a magnetically
coupled loop. You would need to split the frame at some point, and
install a variable capacitor. That's probably not going to happen.

If your window proves to be uncoated glass (unlikely), you might
consider two squares of aluminum foil on both sides of the window to
couple through the RF via a ladder line. You won't get much
capacitance so it won't work on the lower frequencies, but should be
tolerable for the higher bands.

A reminder -- the ground system will be tuned counterpoise
wires running along the wall inside my apartment. I have an
MFJ-1623 tuner which will handle tuning the antenna and
the counterpoise in a very nice compact arrangement with
only one meter to watch!

Good, you have a tuner. However, that's designed specifically to
handle a 12ft balcony mount HF antenna. I don't know what it will do
with a longer antenna. Looking at the schematic:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/pdffiles/MFJ-1623.pdf
it seems to be a crude L match, which isn't going to match every
combination of reactance and frequency. The meter does NOT indicate
VSWR, so you really won't know if the tuner is effective. My
guess(tm) is you're going to purchasing a more elaborate antenna
tuner, a VSWR meter, or using a 12ft piece of wire.

I once used a large sheet of WELDED chicken wire under the carpet for
a "ground". It has to be welded to prevent the galvanizing from
forming diodes. It sorta worked but nobody wanted the lumpy carpet.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558