The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

Just get a good clamp out of steel or copper and really torque it so you get
good contact. Good contact means there's metal-to-metal with no space for
air or water. Not all strands will get this molecular contact but most
touching will. Make sure the clamp is a cheap pot metal one as it'll
corrode and fall off if it doesn't break while your torquing it. If you hve
any Thermit, it'll make a better joint.

--
73
Hank WD5JFR

"Dave" wrote in message
m...
The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

Not so!
This method only applies to surface type corrosion materials that when
formed protects against ingrained corrosion.
Aluminum and copper are types where corrosion is halted after surface
corrosion. Anybody who has had an old car knows that rust can travel under
so called protective surfaces
This analysis was used with succes in court in the case of using aluminum
wiring in stead of copper wiring. The vital point was
that both of these materials formed a protective corrosion coating
that could not be undermined if the inter pressure point was not open to
corrosion penetration.
Art

"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
m...
Just get a good clamp out of steel or copper and really torque it so you
get
good contact. Good contact means there's metal-to-metal with no space for
air or water. Not all strands will get this molecular contact but most
touching will. Make sure the clamp is a cheap pot metal one as it'll
corrode and fall off if it doesn't break while your torquing it. If you
hve
any Thermit, it'll make a better joint.

--
73
Hank WD5JFR

"Dave" wrote in message
m...
The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

I forgot to mention putting an inverted tin can or bottle over the
connection, should be good for years. Better than tape or tar!
--
73
Hank WD5JFR

"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
m...
Just get a good clamp out of steel or copper and really torque it so you
get
good contact. Good contact means there's metal-to-metal with no space for
air or water. Not all strands will get this molecular contact but most
touching will. Make sure the clamp is a cheap pot metal one as it'll
corrode and fall off if it doesn't break while your torquing it. If you
hve
any Thermit, it'll make a better joint.

--
73
Hank WD5JFR

"Dave" wrote in message
m...
The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

Dave:

An exposed copper to galvanized steel connection will quickly lose the zinc,
and the steel will rust profusely. So, whatever approach you use, put lots
of weatherproofing over the joint. Personally, I use thin stainless steel
between the two dissimilar metals along with Penetrox and then weatherproof
with roofing tar. The professionals use a special crimp connector or a
purpose designed CadWeld connection.

--
Crazy George
Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address
"Dave" wrote in message
m...
The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:42:33 -0500, "Crazy George"
wrote:

|Dave:
|
|An exposed copper to galvanized steel connection will quickly lose the zinc,
|and the steel will rust profusely. So, whatever approach you use, put lots
|of weatherproofing over the joint. Personally, I use thin stainless steel
|between the two dissimilar metals along with Penetrox and then weatherproof
|with roofing tar.

Same approach here, without the tar. On my Rohn 45 I replaced the
smaller bolts at the bottom with stainless and used double
nuts/washers to attach the copper ground wiring. Of course, it seldom
rains here and the low humidity helps in the corrosion department.

Purists will refer to the galvanic tables and go from there, but this
works for me.

Maybe Barry Ornitz will answer this for you. If not Google him.

I think Barry got fed up reading some of this junk. I haven't seen a post
from him in quite a long time.

--
Crazy George
Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address
"Wes" wrote in message
...

snip

Maybe Barry Ornitz will answer this for you. If not Google him.

On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 23:03:27 -0500, "Crazy George"
wrote:

|I think Barry got fed up reading some of this junk. I haven't seen a post
|from him in quite a long time.

Me neither. I think you're probably correct.

Unless you want the connection to last for 20 years, use a simple clamp.

As for me, like many others, I've never kept an antenna for longer than 6
months.

=========================

"Dave" wrote
The answer must be here but after some searching I can't find it.
There is all sorts of conversation about ground rods and dissimilar
metals but I can't find the basic answer I need -- How do you make the
steel to copper connection? Do you simply clamp galvanized steel to
copper? Thanks.

Hi Dave

For searching the web, use Cathodic Protection as your search key.

As far as steel to copper, nickel is a good go between between the two
metals. You can weld to steel with nickel and put a nickel coating on
the binding area of the steel rod.

TTUL
Gary