Hi,
I am blessed to have the DX-CC land in my lap, but used and soon will need
rewiring. Any advice on those coils? Can they just be re-coiled with the
same wire all along? I have a large coil of solid copper wire that is 12g
with the plastic jacket with a uv thin sholack. What are the recemmendations
for the coil turns and lengths of that coil wire?

or am I better off replacing those coils with exactly the same size
enammeled copper wire with two solder joints? Same as the manufacture does.
Would they just do it this way to speed up the process? Make it easier for
mass production?

If I were to wire that top leg all same wire including the coils, is that
preferred? Any ideas as to the specs for doing it that way if you guys think
that is electrically more logical? Or not?

Thanks

73s







"Boomer" wrote in message
...
On 10/30/2012 8:23 AM, W5DXP wrote:
On Monday, October 29, 2012 2:45:22 PM UTC-5, Boomer wrote:
I still think you should do this yourself. Just ABing the receiver is an
important test. G5RVs have a reputation that I cannot personally confirm
of being noisy. I do know for certain that some antennas produce more
noise than others.

I've spent many years experimenting with G5RVs including field strength
measurements vs a dipole and a vertical. When someone has a problem with
a G5RV on 75m, it is invariably because good engineering practice was not
used in that particular design and installation. An inverted-V at 15 feet
with no choke/balun and twinlead taped to a conductive pole and/or laying
on the ground is certainly not going to work very well. With both
antennas properly designed and installed, it is difficult to tell the
difference at resonance on 75m. However, the G5RV is fairly
non-functional on 30m, 17m, 15m, and 10m. 17m and 10m are necessities for
me and that's why I don't use one. I bought a G5RV in the late 80's
expecting it to live up to its all-HF band advertising and I was
disappointed. That's when I went to my no-tuner all-HF-band 130' dipole.

http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm

Like any dipole where the two dipole elements are DC isolated from each
other, the G5RV is susceptible to precipitation static. An RF choke
across the conductors will solve that problem.


Maybe those who chose a G5RV to buy something cheap and easy also then
erect it poorly. I have seen a G5RV erected in my town here. It looks
awful. It works just as well. I talked to another ham a few days ago on 40
meters. His G5RV was mounted at 10 feet. Some guys actually wind their
window line into a coil.

I also saw another antenna in town. It was supposedly a 75 meter zepp. It
had 6 feet of window line and then a 60 of wire wound around a single
tree. I am always amazed at the lack of planning and engineering that go
into some antenna installations.

These guys will never have a good signal and probably never know why. Most
will not ask for help because they already know that their antenna is
great. I don't know why some hams will have their self-esteem tied up in
their rigs and antennas. I mostly use an Icom 751A and I know it is not
the best rig in the world. It is old and needs repair once in a while. My
75 meter loop at 35 feet of height is not the best antenna in the world,
but it is the best I can do for height given my trees and property.
However, I listened to someone who knew more about antennas than myself
and he convinced me to change my window line feed to open wire. I got a
huge benefit in performance. It does not make sense to me that a plastic
dialectric is so much worse than air. Maybe it is the change from 450 ohms
to 600. But boy did that antenna start working better.

Michael

On Thursday, November 1, 2012 6:00:36 PM UTC-5, Tom wrote:
Hi,

I am blessed to have the DX-CC land in my lap, but used and soon will need

rewiring. Any advice on those coils? Can they just be re-coiled with the

same wire all along? I have a large coil of solid copper wire that is 12g

with the plastic jacket with a uv thin sholack. What are the recemmendations

for the coil turns and lengths of that coil wire?



or am I better off replacing those coils with exactly the same size

enammeled copper wire with two solder joints? Same as the manufacture does.

Would they just do it this way to speed up the process? Make it easier for

mass production?



If I were to wire that top leg all same wire including the coils, is that

preferred? Any ideas as to the specs for doing it that way if you guys think

that is electrically more logical? Or not?



Thanks



73s









If it still works, I see no real need to rewire. The green
coating is not going to hurt anything, unless it's so severe
the wire is rotting away. Or if the coating causes a short
between windings for some reason. If not, I would just use
it as is.
But if you really feel compelled to rewire it, I would use
the same exact gauge solid wire that was originally used.
That way you can use the same forms with no design changes.