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"news" wrote in message
... I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. [I realise this is not the most efficient way to do it from an electrical point of view, but the alternative approach of installing the radials above the ground is completely out of the question, for aesthetic reasons]. Some practical questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1. What is the "best" type of wire (or braid) to use for the radials? Whatever you can get cheaply, as you need a lot. Insulated is fine- the soil (rf) conductivity is poor (or you'd not need radials) so the benefit from have bare wire is minimal. Insulated will stop it corroding. 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). 3. What kind of solder and flux should I use? Bring them to a 'star point' which is your earth point and it should have a normal earth stake. Make sure this is bonded to you PME point for safety by 10mm^2 wire. If you solder, use ordinary multicore solder. 4. What precautions should I take to minimise the effects of corrosion at the joints? Self amalgamating tape or use conduit boxes and 'pot' with epoxy. 5. How deep should I bury the radials? Two inches, six inches, 12 inches? Depends- this is as much to do with what the land is used for. In the past I've used a spade to make a shallow 'slit', maybe 2" deep, in the lawn and pushed wires into that. In a flower bed or vegetable patch that wouldn't be deep enough. Don't forget patios. Our patios have radials under them. Also, you can run wires around the bottom of fences etc, by paths. 6. Is there anything else I should know? Don't forget that safety bonding! -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
"news" wrote in message ... I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. [I realise this is not the most efficient way to do it from an electrical point of view, but the alternative approach of installing the radials above the ground is completely out of the question, for aesthetic reasons]. Some practical questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1. What is the "best" type of wire (or braid) to use for the radials? 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). I would use a blowtorch (But I am used to using one). The secret is not to overheat things. Its a kind of dabbing technique to get up to temperature. |
Hi Ian
I had over 3,500 feet of radials under my HF9VX/w160. They were buried only about 1 inch deep overall. I used a meat cleaver and rubber mallet, placing an open eyehook through the hanging hole on the meat cleaver. I stretched the wire out first, then let it pass through the eyehook. As I cut along the edge of the wire to make the hole in the ground, the eyehook would pull it down below the surface. The job went fairly quickly! I used some 12 and some 14 guage insulated solid copper wire, whatever was on sale the cheapest, hi hi..... At the antenna base, I drove an 8 foot ground rod, allowing it to stay above ground about 4 inches. Each radial came up to this ground rod and made a 90 degree turn upwards. I used a cheap pencil flame propane blowtorch and Copper Phosphorus Bronze brazing rods (low melting point, good adhesion to copper), affixing each wire to the ground rod. I then welded an insulated braided 8 guage wire to this for later connection to the antenna. After all the radials were in place and welded to the rod, I slipped a 3/4 inch copper pipe over the ground rod and down to the radials and filled it with silicone caulk. Then, using a hose I washed out the dirt under the radials around the ground rod so that I could (after it was dry) get about a 1 inch deep layer of silicone around the ground rod and ends of all the radials so that the insulation was covered back about 1 inch and about 1/2 inch above the copper pipe. Because the HF9VX has a COIL near ground level, I cut the bottom out of a vinyl Cylindrical flower pot and slipped this over the antenna mount and ground rod. It was stuck into the ground about an inch or two, down to the tops of the radials. To keep grass/weeds from growing, I also dumped a 4lb box of rock salt into the container. I used a PVC sleeve over the antenna mount, so the salt would not get to the aluminum. TTUL Gary |
Another way is to go to your local electrical wholesaler
(assuming he will deal with you now we're past Jan 1st/Part P) and buy one of those chocolate-box-like strips for commoning up 6mm green-and-yellow to clamp all the wires together. "Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr." wrote in message ... I used a cheap pencil flame propane blowtorch and Copper Phosphorus Bronze brazing rods (low melting point, good adhesion to copper), affixing each wire to the ground rod. |
On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 11:33:44 GMT, news wrote:
I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. [I realise this is not the most efficient way to do it from an electrical point of view, but the alternative approach of installing the radials above the ground is completely out of the question, for aesthetic reasons]. Some practical questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1. What is the "best" type of wire (or braid) to use for the radials? Some of my literature recommends against braided or woven conductors as having too high a surface resistance to lightning and RF, especially if they get corroded. Wide smooth surfaces are better. You might try Lowe's Home Improvement or Home Depot -- they both sell 500-ft. rolls of #12 copper wire for about $20. That'd save you going to the poorhouse, on this :-) 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). A Weller SP-120 (120 watts, 1/2" tip) or SP-170 (170 watts, 5/8" tip) would do the job. Either of these is also great for soldering coax plugs (I have the SP-170 & it's a barnburner). If you can't find the irons locally at a hardware or hobby shop, a Google search brings them up, online. Bob k5qwg 3. What kind of solder and flux should I use? 4. What precautions should I take to minimise the effects of corrosion at the joints? 5. How deep should I bury the radials? Two inches, six inches, 12 inches? 6. Is there anything else I should know? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We are on heavy clay soil that alternates between being very dry and very wet. My main interest is in the lower hf bands (40/80/160) and possibly 136kHz. |
"news" wrote:
I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. Good idea. Bury anything that will conduct, eg biscuit tins! I spent ages unwinding and burying the coils from old TV CRTs. 40 years ago (I was a 160m nut) I bought a very large reel of bare 18 swg "garden wire" from local hardware store. It looked like copper but too light and seemed to be an ali alloy. It was buried in around 2"-4" slits in 100 - 150' lengths in clay-ish non-acid soil. Still looks in good shape. I used choc block connectors to join the wires in pairs or triplets, soldered the group and left a tail to make the next larger group. Used heavy auto earthing braid for final lead into ground floor shack. Was it worth the trouble? Yes. With a ~200' inverted L (3/8th wave on topband), no problem working Ws on a 500mW transistor (germanium!) box. Dead band with earth disconnected. Alf GW3SRG |
On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 11:33:44 GMT, news wrote:
I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. [I realise this is not the most efficient way to do it from an electrical point of view, Why not? Some practical questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1. What is the "best" type of wire (or braid) to use for the radials? Something that is cheap (so you can have lots of it) and non-corroding (so you don't have to re-lay it every year). 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease. 3. What kind of solder and flux should I use? None at all. See above. 4. What precautions should I take to minimise the effects of corrosion at the joints? See above. 5. How deep should I bury the radials? Two inches, six inches, 12 inches? Whatever you find most convenient. 6. Is there anything else I should know? You will never lay enough radials to turn your garden into a highly-conductive metallic mirror, the next best thing you can do is to provide the lowest ohmic contact for your vertical. If your vertical has a radiation resistance of R ohms and the ohmic contact with the ground is Z ohms, the efficiency of your system is given by R/(R+Z). Consider a short vertical with a ground rod might have R = 10 and Z = 150, you can see the efficiency is pretty low at ~6 percent. So 94 percent of your RF is heating up the earthworms &c. We are on heavy clay soil that alternates between being very dry and very wet. I suggest you start with a couple of tons of well-rotted farmyard manure. You need to work on that clay and turn it into something better both horticulturally and electrically. My main interest is in the lower hf bands (40/80/160) and possibly 136kHz. In that case at 136 kHz R above might be .0001 ohms or worse, and your efficiency will be very low. Get as much metal in the ground as possible. Avoid loops. -- from Aero Spike |
Ian J wrote:
I need to improve my ground system, and am thinking of burying some radials under the lawn. [I realise this is not the most efficient way to do it from an electrical point of view, but the alternative approach of installing the radials above the ground is completely out of the question, for aesthetic reasons]. Some practical questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1. What is the "best" type of wire (or braid) to use for the radials? Whatever you can get a lot of at a cheap price, and isn't going to corrode immediately it's buried. That means NOT braid or bare stranded either. Bare or insulated solid wire is fine, and likewise insulated stranded wire. 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). I used a horizontal busbar of copper tube, supported by a token ground rod. Each radial was looped round the busbar and secured with a twist, and finally the whole lot was soldered with a blowtorch (used at a careful distance). 3. What kind of solder and flux should I use? Ordinary tin/lead. I used Fluxite paste and rinsed it off afterwards. 4. What precautions should I take to minimise the effects of corrosion at the joints? Clear polyurethane spray has worked perfectly for several years. I chose clear so I'd be able to check for corrosion underneath, but there hasn't been any. 5. How deep should I bury the radials? Two inches, six inches, 12 inches? Zero inches, if you can. Cut the grass very short in a few weeks' time, and staple the radials down. This part of the question was discussed here, only a week ago. 6. Is there anything else I should know? You're going to have backache. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
As suggested, lots of wire. Doesn't matter to the RF if
it's insulated or not (it will matter as far as corrosion is concerned). No soldering, use heavy clamps instead. Coat with some kind of noncorrosive 'goop'. Bury it deep enough so the lawn mower doesn't get into it. when you think you have enough metal in the ground, add another mile... 'Doc PS - If you're going to use 136 Khz, make that 10 miles. |
I make the wavelength to be 2204 metres.
"'Doc" wrote in message om... PS - If you're going to use 136 Khz, make that 10 miles. |
Airy R. Bean wrote:
Another way is to go to your local electrical wholesaler (assuming he will deal with you now we're past Jan 1st/Part P) and buy one of those chocolate-box-like strips for commoning up 6mm green-and-yellow to clamp all the wires together. Also available from some branches of Wickes and B&Q Warehouses. Not had any problems purchasing from electrical wholesalers as I fitted a shower for one of the daughters over Xmas and decided to put in one of the pull cord switches for her to isolate the shower - purchased this week (post 1/1/2005) from one of the larger suppliers with no questions asked. Maybe it's the installation and not supplying that is under question - though typically our government bring in a silly law such as this - while they know that there is no right of entry to inspect. David. |
Staples? Presumably fashion from short lengths of
fencing wire, or similar? "Ian White, G3SEK" wrote in message ... Zero inches, if you can. Cut the grass very short in a few weeks' time, and staple the radials down. This part of the question was discussed here, only a week ago. |
On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 15:52:22 GMT, David Edmonds
wrote: Maybe it's the installation and not supplying that is under question - though typically our government bring in a silly law such as this - while they know that there is no right of entry to inspect. The problem arises when you try to sell your house. A prospective purchaser's solicitor will ask for the certificates for any work you admit to having been done post Jan 1. -- from Aero Spike |
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 15:52:09 -0000, "Airy R. Bean"
wrote: "'Doc" wrote in message . com... PS - If you're going to use 136 Khz, make that 10 miles. I make the wavelength to be 2204 metres. Your point being what, exactly? -- from Aero Spike |
"David Edmonds" wrote in message
... Airy R. Bean wrote: Another way is to go to your local electrical wholesaler (assuming he will deal with you now we're past Jan 1st/Part P) and buy one of those chocolate-box-like strips for commoning up 6mm green-and-yellow to clamp all the wires together. Also available from some branches of Wickes and B&Q Warehouses. Not had any problems purchasing from electrical wholesalers as I fitted a shower for one of the daughters over Xmas and decided to put in one of the pull cord switches for her to isolate the shower - purchased this week (post 1/1/2005) from one of the larger suppliers with no questions asked. Maybe it's the installation and not supplying that is under question - though typically our government bring in a silly law such as this - while they know that there is no right of entry to inspect. "Part P" doesn't stop DIY electrical work but such work MAY need to be inspected. In fact, some level of inspection has always been imposed- the electricity supply company does a check before connecting the "meter tails". I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
ISTR that the person who introduced the concept of
polarised resistors was you. Yet again you make the Freudian Slip of uttering a rather silly sneer that actually applies to yourself. SFB, or what?! "Brian Reay" wrote in message ... I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) |
Brian Reay wrote:
I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, I admit I would like to learn but prefer to spend my time doing other things - and admit that the house here is quite safe as we've had few electrical additions done apart from outside lighting. Everything else 'plugs in' so is not covered by the new regs. but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) That was a low punch Brian - especially on a day when the design for the latest ground-breaking reinvention of the wheel in radio form is being proposed and discussed. Sadly - like a plane with no engine - it won't ever get off the ground. David. |
"David Edmonds" wrote in message
... Brian Reay wrote: I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, I admit I would like to learn but prefer to spend my time doing other things - and admit that the house here is quite safe as we've had few electrical additions done apart from outside lighting. Everything else 'plugs in' so is not covered by the new regs. but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) That was a low punch Brian - especially on a day when the design for the latest ground-breaking reinvention of the wheel in radio form is being proposed and discussed. Sorry but nobody is perfect. Seriously, I still quote the (in)famous line about knowing one end of a resistor from another in training courses. Always gets a laugh and, as you probably know, a little humour in a lesson works wonders. Sadly - like a plane with no engine - it won't ever get off the ground. In this case I think train not leaving the station as the signals don't work is more appropriate. -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
Then more fool you, if you don't understand the
necessity of reading the colour code from the correct end. (I wonder if you hold, or have ever held, a licence issued under the gangrenous degeneration that is the M3/CB Fools' Licence scheme? You certainly make yourself out as stupid and as ignorant enough.) "Brian Reay" wrote in message ... Seriously, I still quote the (in)famous line about knowing one end of a resistor from another in training courses. |
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:02:51 -0000, "Brian Reay"
wrote: "Part P" doesn't stop DIY electrical work but such work MAY need to be inspected. In fact, some level of inspection has always been imposed- the electricity supply company does a check before connecting the "meter tails". I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) Yes, I take your point. Do you remember the chappie on uk.radio.amateur who recommended an earth connection to the yellow plastic water main ;-)? I'm sure this sort of thing is done to protect the next occupiers of his house. -- from Aero Spike |
"Spike" wrote in message
... On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:02:51 -0000, "Brian Reay" wrote: "Part P" doesn't stop DIY electrical work but such work MAY need to be inspected. In fact, some level of inspection has always been imposed- the electricity supply company does a check before connecting the "meter tails". I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) Yes, I take your point. Do you remember the chappie on uk.radio.amateur who recommended an earth connection to the yellow plastic water main ;-)? Do they use yellow in Wiltshire then? In Kent water is blue and gas yellow. I'm sure this sort of thing is done to protect the next occupiers of his house. When the company fails, that may not be far away. -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:25:42 -0000, "Airy R. Bean"
wrote: Then more fool you..... You certainly make yourself out as stupid and as ignorant enough. I like the demonstration of the gentlemanly approach..... -- from Aero Spike |
Airy R. Bean wrote:
ISTR that the person who introduced the concept of polarised resistors was you. Yet again you make the Freudian Slip of uttering a rather silly sneer that actually applies to yourself. SFB, or what?! "Brian Reay" wrote in message ... I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-) No it was definitely YOU who said something like - M3/CB blah blah "wouldn't know one end of a resistor from the other". I don't know how to search for old messages but I'm sure someone can find it for you. Cheers, Micky -- E&OE (C) 2005 Micky Taker Micky Taker accepts no responsibility for any personal injury or emotional distress that may occur as a result of reading the contents of this message. |
s'OK - the spikeful Old Mother-Hen Nugatory RVMJ-Binaryera,
which is the true identity of the person to whom you responded, doesn't know anything technical, never contributes anything of value, and only ever sneers in a rather silly paranoid way. Bad luck, Jack! You fell into her trap! "Jack Painter" wrote in message news:VqeEd.11987$B95.4079@lakeread02... "Spike" wrote 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease. Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all. There are copper and other metal-alloy pastes available for making mechanical lightning protection and RF connections. They are the only thing that should ever be used to make up mechanical joints. If you don't have them, make the joints dry and leave them that way. Copper oxide (normally green) that forms outside of bare copper from oxidation is conductive and causes very little difference in conductivity. Aluminum oxides and carbon steel rust are not very conductive, although not much different than poor soil that most radials are buried in. |
"Spike" wrote 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease. Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all. There are copper and other metal-alloy pastes available for making mechanical lightning protection and RF connections. They are the only thing that should ever be used to make up mechanical joints. If you don't have them, make the joints dry and leave them that way. Copper oxide (normally green) that forms outside of bare copper from oxidation is conductive and causes very little difference in conductivity. Aluminum oxides and carbon steel rust are not very conductive, although not much different than poor soil that most radials are buried in. Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia |
"Jack Painter" wrote in message
news:VqeEd.11987$B95.4079@lakeread02... "Spike" wrote 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease. Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all. If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter? -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
Brian Reay wrote:
If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter? Back in the 50's, it was common practice to smear grease on automobile battery terminals to keep them from corroding. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
"Cecil Moore" wrote in message ... Brian Reay wrote: If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter? Back in the 50's, it was common practice to smear grease on automobile battery terminals to keep them from corroding. Still is in the UK. Also I assume in the USA, one of my cars was made in the USA and came with grease on the terminals. -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
Airy R. Bean wrote:
"Ian White, G3SEK" wrote in message ... Zero inches, if you can. Cut the grass very short in a few weeks' time, and staple the radials down. This part of the question was discussed here, only a week ago. Staples? Presumably fashion from short lengths of fencing wire, or similar? You've got the idea. The original reference to the thread was: http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...na/browse_frm/ thread/67f88578a6f58a9a/1191189b9db0a400?q=staple+radial+group:rec.radio. amateur.antenna&_done=%2Fgroups%3Fas_q%3Dstaple+ra dial%26safe%3Dimages%26 as_ugroup%3Drec.radio.amateur.antenna%26as_drrb%3D b%26as_mind%3D25%26as_m inm%3D12%26as_miny%3D2004%26as_maxd%3D9%26as_maxm% 3D1%26as_maxy%3D2005%26 lr%3D%26hl%3Den%26&_doneTitle=Back+to+Search&&d#11 91189b9db0a400 Or alternatively: http://tinyurl.com/4dnhg (Tinyurl.com really is the best thing since.... well, since Google Newsgroups Search, I suppose.) -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
6. Is there anything else I should know?
You're going to have backache. =========================== In all probability he will lay down far more and longer than necessary, anyway. Is Sloan's Linament still available? |
Brian Reay wrote:
When the company fails, that may not be far away. Nah, the chances are that, like so many other cowboys, he'll just open another company and carry on regardless. -- ;) 73 de Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI - mine's a pint. http://turner-smith.co.uk |
"Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI" wrote in message
... Brian Reay wrote: When the company fails, that may not be far away. Nah, the chances are that, like so many other cowboys, he'll just open another company and carry on regardless. Unless they get banned from holding directorships. Not unknown for someone with a score to settle to buy up the debts of a small company and send it to the wall. If done correctly, the wayward director is them in the p*** -- Brian Reay www.g8osn.org.uk www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk FP#898 |
Brian Reay wrote:
"Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI" wrote in message ... Brian Reay wrote: When the company fails, that may not be far away. Nah, the chances are that, like so many other cowboys, he'll just open another company and carry on regardless. Unless they get banned from holding directorships. Not unknown for someone with a score to settle to buy up the debts of a small company and send it to the wall. If done correctly, the wayward director is them in the p*** How would that work? Surely you'd just be buying written off debts from a liquidated company. More fun to liquidate the offending Director. -- ;) 73 de Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI - mine's a pint. http://turner-smith.co.uk |
"Brian Reay" wrote "Cecil Moore" wrote in message ... Brian Reay wrote: If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter? Back in the 50's, it was common practice to smear grease on automobile battery terminals to keep them from corroding. Still is in the UK. Also I assume in the USA, one of my cars was made in the USA and came with grease on the terminals. Guys, the last time I checked, this was not rec.car.battery. We're talking about antennas and RF, not DC connections to your car battery. Using grease, even outside the made connection, will eventually penetrate the spaces. Maybe this doesn't matter to the 50-100w user, but it matters to high power connections, the most notable of which is lightning. Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia |
I may have missed something here but in my case I only have a 1/2 acre
'clear' under my tower. Because of the limited area I chose to use a grid system of insulated solid wire an inch below the surface with spacing of 3 feet per side of the grids. I then removed insulation ar cross over points and crimped the wires together, the crimping then made it quite easy for the solder to flow. Tree roots have pushed up the wire in a couple of places but the rest is unseen. I don't do to much work with verticals so I can't comment on the sutability of this type of ground and have not read anywhere of any comparisons to the normal radial type ground especially for use over ALL of the amateur bands. Food for thought. Judging by the number of responses recieved by the poster there is a whole bunch of knoweledge out there on how to mess up your lawn ( yard over here) P.S. get a mechanised pizza cutter to make the wire slots and place it on the wheel of a wheel barrow so as not to alarm the neigbourhood Cheers ART "Reg Edwards" wrote in message ... 6. Is there anything else I should know? You're going to have backache. =========================== In all probability he will lay down far more and longer than necessary, anyway. Is Sloan's Linament still available? |
Reg Edwards wrote:
6. Is there anything else I should know? You're going to have backache. =========================== In all probability he will lay down far more and longer than necessary, anyway. If that Ian's garden is anything like this Ian's, in some directions he will probably be forced to lay down fewer and shorter radials than he'd like, and he may try to make up for that by overdoing it in other directions. He'll probably give up when his back gives out... and still trying to work out exactly what you meant by "necessary". Is Sloan's Linament still available? Certainly, from any good horse-doctor. I do recall that once upon a time in Yorkshire, two completely new products came out in similar-sized tubes. One was Deep Heat Rub for bad backs; the other was Evo-Stik Impact Adhesive. Lighting were bad i' them days. You can guess the rest... -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
wrote:
get a mechanised pizza cutter to make the wire slots and place it on the wheel of a wheel barrow Art, you're a genius! SM2CEW's website describes a radial plough which attaches to the back of a tractor, and can lay a full-sized Top Band radial in 2 minutes. I had been lamenting the lack of a Volvo tractor (or the space to lay such long radials) but a blade attached to a wheelbarrow might just do it... or even to the lawn mower. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:08:53 -0500, "Jack Painter"
wrote: Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all. Not if you make the electrical connection first, and then coat with grease. You wouldn't paint the radials ends and then make the joint. OTOH, perhaps you would. PS: Paint can be a dielectric too...... -- from Aero Spike |
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 18:20:47 -0000, "Brian Reay"
wrote: "Jack Painter" wrote in message news:VqeEd.11987$B95.4079@lakeread02... "Spike" wrote 2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering iron won't be up to the job ...). Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease. Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all. If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter? Thanks for the injection of sense, Brian. As I say elsewhere, you wouldn't paint it first then make the connection. OTOH, perhaps that's whey no-one has heard Bean on the bands..... -- from Aero Spike |
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