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Old July 9th 05, 05:09 AM
Ron
 
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I have do not have guys on the HF6V I own and have had no problems at
all. WE had sustanied winds of almost 60mph this winter and no
problem at all.

Do take the time though if you have not already and add a few radials.
Cut you lawn real short,, lay down several radials, pull them taught
and then stake them in the ground with ground cloth staples (garden
center) The grass will grow right up aroound them and they will
"disapear" into the ground. Huge difference in performance.

Ron
On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 07:56:25 -0500, "John Gotwals"
wrote:

I live in Indiana and am in the process of ground mounting a Butternut HF6V
vertical antenna. The antennal is located in a section of lawn which is 40
feet from the nearest building. I am sure a set of guys would make a more
sturdy antenna, but I don't want to cause lawn mowing problems, and I don't
want to increase the visual impact of this antenna. Any comments or advice
is welcome.

John, N9JG


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Old July 9th 05, 01:18 PM
John Gotwals
 
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I do plan to add a fair number of guys, and will be installing them just as
you have suggested. I do have a question about driving the 1 1/8" mounting
tube into the earth. The directions give a warning about splitting the
plastic insert and suggest placing a piece of wood on top of the tube and
then hammer on the wood. The soil here is clay, and the ground is quite dry,
at the present time. Do you, or anyone else, have any suggestions about
driving the tube into the ground. Should I drive a wooden stake first to
form a hole, remove the stake, and then drive the tube into the hole left by
the stake?

"Ron" wrote in message
...
I have do not have guys on the HF6V I own and have had no problems at
all. WE had sustanied winds of almost 60mph this winter and no
problem at all.

Do take the time though if you have not already and add a few radials.
Cut you lawn real short,, lay down several radials, pull them taught
and then stake them in the ground with ground cloth staples (garden
center) The grass will grow right up aroound them and they will
"disapear" into the ground. Huge difference in performance.



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Old July 9th 05, 04:10 PM
Howard
 
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On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 07:18:07 -0500, "John Gotwals"
wrote:

I do plan to add a fair number of guys, and will be installing them just as
you have suggested. I do have a question about driving the 1 1/8" mounting
tube into the earth. The directions give a warning about splitting the
plastic insert and suggest placing a piece of wood on top of the tube and
then hammer on the wood. The soil here is clay, and the ground is quite dry,
at the present time. Do you, or anyone else, have any suggestions about
driving the tube into the ground. Should I drive a wooden stake first to
form a hole, remove the stake, and then drive the tube into the hole left by
the stake?


I's suggest you take a few days and water the area first, you can use
a 'starter hole' approach also. Drive a stake in and withdraw then
over the course of a day fill that hole with water and allow it to
seep in then water again. You don't want to go too deep with your
'starter hole' though - just enough to hold some water.
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Old July 9th 05, 04:52 PM
Reg Edwards
 
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I suggest you take a few days and water the area first,

==================================

This may be fine for some amateurs. But what about the people in
southern England where the present water shortage will cause the
goverment to introduce compulsory metering of domestic water supplies.
It's something to do with Earth warming, man-made climatic
disturbance, and the price of a glass of clean drinking water in
London.
----
Reg.


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Old July 9th 05, 05:35 PM
David G. Nagel
 
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Reg Edwards wrote:
I suggest you take a few days and water the area first,



==================================

This may be fine for some amateurs. But what about the people in
southern England where the present water shortage will cause the
goverment to introduce compulsory metering of domestic water supplies.
It's something to do with Earth warming, man-made climatic
disturbance, and the price of a glass of clean drinking water in
London.
----
Reg.


Use GRAY water. That's the water from the sink, bath tub etc. This will
ease the load on the waste water treatment plant and allow you to soak
the ground at the same time. A little more work but it can be worth it.

Dave WD9BDZ


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Old July 9th 05, 07:23 PM
John Gotwals
 
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Why would anyone save water if their water supply was not metered?

"Reg Edwards" wrote in message
...
This may be fine for some amateurs. But what about the people in
southern England where the present water shortage will cause the
goverment to introduce compulsory metering of domestic water supplies.
It's something to do with Earth warming, man-made climatic
disturbance, and the price of a glass of clean drinking water in
London.



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Old July 10th 05, 03:20 AM
Dave \Doc\ Corio
 
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From my own experience (water problems aside) use a smaller pipe to
drive a pilot hole. If your ground mount is 1 1/8", use either a 3/4, or
at the most, 7/8" pipe to make a pilot hole. I tried using 1 1/8", and
ended up with quite a bit of "slop". 3/4" seemed to yield the best
results for me. Leaves enough earth to firmly hold the base, yet makes
it very easy to install without beating the heck out of the base Itself!

73
Dave
N0HNJ
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Old July 10th 05, 05:52 PM
John Gotwals
 
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The only thing I had on hand was some square cross-sectional hard wood
stake. The cross-sectional diagonal length was about 3/4 of the Butternut
mounting tube diameter. I have clay soil and we are in the middle of a
drought, so I used plenty of water and each time went an inch or two deeper.
Driving the mounting tube was quite easy, and the plumb is quite good.

The tube is now in the ground and secured to a DX Engineering stainless
ground plane radial plate. http://dxengineering.com/

"Dave "Doc" Corio" wrote in message
...
From my own experience (water problems aside) use a smaller pipe to drive
a pilot hole. If your ground mount is 1 1/8", use either a 3/4, or at the
most, 7/8" pipe to make a pilot hole. I tried using 1 1/8", and ended up
with quite a bit of "slop". 3/4" seemed to yield the best results for me.
Leaves enough earth to firmly hold the base, yet makes it very easy to
install without beating the heck out of the base Itself!

73
Dave
N0HNJ



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Old July 11th 05, 02:04 AM
bt
 
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While we are on the subject, does anyone have a good source for the
capacitors used on this antenna?

I have a HF6V thats been pretty mangled and want to rebuild it.

thanks

Bruce
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Old July 11th 05, 02:31 AM
Mike Coslo
 
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bt wrote:
While we are on the subject, does anyone have a good source for the
capacitors used on this antenna?


Hamfests are a good place to start. I've seen some at most I've gone to.

- Mike KB3EIA -


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