Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() I do plan to add a fair number of guys, and will be installing them just as you have suggested. I do have a question about driving the 1 1/8" mounting tube into the earth. The directions give a warning about splitting the plastic insert and suggest placing a piece of wood on top of the tube and then hammer on the wood. The soil here is clay, and the ground is quite dry, at the present time. Do you, or anyone else, have any suggestions about driving the tube into the ground. Should I drive a wooden stake first to form a hole, remove the stake, and then drive the tube into the hole left by the stake? Post Hole/fencing Borer comes to mind or depending on your current soil condition you could use a hose pipe with a tube inserted in the tip and bore a hole that way, albeit fairly high pressure is needed, but that could be achieved with a pressure washer. As you start off your bound to be soaked a bit, but as you [bore deeper] push/ pull the nozzle out of the hole so that excess soil/clay can be removed by the water, bore down to your required depth, insert pole and back fill with sand or tamp down soil sides. This is also one way to ensure you can get a decent enough hole, deep enough to insert a earth stake. Your idea of utilising a hole by driving in a stake would no doubt give you problems extracting it back out again as I assume that you would be requiring a depth of about 900mm? Dave d:-) -- Amateur Radio Call Sign M1BTI, Located in Manchester England. Locator square IO83TK Chairman Of Trafford Radio Club. Club Call Signs G0TRG & M1BBP Located at Umist, University Of Manchester Institute For Science And Technology Share What You Know, Learn What You Don't. |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
My antenna and ground mount came to me a used equipment/
The mounting post that came along is fantastically designed. Let me try to describe it to you: Galvanized steel water pipe four feet in lenght with a nominal Inner diameter of about 1 inch. One end has a taper point ( very much like a sand point well point) wellded to it.. The opposite end ( side that vertical and atenna insulater is dropped into) has 3 in by 3 inch " ears welded parrallel to the length of the pipe, 5 inches from the end and 180 aprt from each other. The welded steel ears are about 3/16 of an in thick. Each ear has a 3/8 inch hole drilled through them about 3/4 of an inch from the top of the ear. This permits hooking 1/4 or 5/16 proof coil chain as a point to remove pole using a convienent fulcrum or jack. I use a 10 pound mall to drive the pole into medium hard ground. I strike the ears, not the pole. When you get to ground level with the ears continue to drive the ears to the bolt holes. This pole will never rotate. It is almost easier to fabricate this than it is to describe it. Completely removable and reusable mount. Two 3/16 holes are drilled through the fiberglass insulator and through the mount where I have number 10 -24 stainless hardware. Ron On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 15:44:19 +0100, Dave Piggin wrote: I do plan to add a fair number of guys, and will be installing them just as you have suggested. I do have a question about driving the 1 1/8" mounting tube into the earth. The directions give a warning about splitting the plastic insert and suggest placing a piece of wood on top of the tube and then hammer on the wood. The soil here is clay, and the ground is quite dry, at the present time. Do you, or anyone else, have any suggestions about driving the tube into the ground. Should I drive a wooden stake first to form a hole, remove the stake, and then drive the tube into the hole left by the stake? Post Hole/fencing Borer comes to mind or depending on your current soil condition you could use a hose pipe with a tube inserted in the tip and bore a hole that way, albeit fairly high pressure is needed, but that could be achieved with a pressure washer. As you start off your bound to be soaked a bit, but as you [bore deeper] push/ pull the nozzle out of the hole so that excess soil/clay can be removed by the water, bore down to your required depth, insert pole and back fill with sand or tamp down soil sides. This is also one way to ensure you can get a decent enough hole, deep enough to insert a earth stake. Your idea of utilising a hole by driving in a stake would no doubt give you problems extracting it back out again as I assume that you would be requiring a depth of about 900mm? Dave d:-) |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
i confess | CB | |||
Butternut HF6V question | Antenna | |||
Butternut HF6V problem | General | |||
Seeking Butternut HF6V manual | Antenna | |||
Seeking Butternut HF6V manual | Swap |