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#32
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OK, I misunderstood.
jimbo wrote: Dave wrote: jimbo wrote: SNIPPED Adding some length to the long leg would be relatively easy, BUT moving the feed point would be a real challenge! The coax shield and center conductor are soldered to the ladder line wires. When I tuned a j-pole in my work shop, tiny movements made a change amd maintaining the position while trying to get it soldered was nearly impossible. (At least for my clumsy fingers.) Is there a better way to connect the feed point? Thanks, jimbo Jimbo, you just added another variable to the discussion. Please describe the details of the coax to ladder line and ladder line to antenna for us. Sorry for the confusion. The ladder line is the j-pole antenna. Cut to the appropriate length, etc. The coax feed line is attached to the "J" near the bottom, maybe 2 inches up. Thanks, jimbo |
#33
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jimbo wrote:
OK, I have a new 2 meter j-pole antenna installed in my 3rd floor attic. I have 50 feet of LMR240 coax running to the basement. I measure SWR at the following frequencies on simplex. 144.2 2.5 145.2 2.4 146.2 2.3 147.2 1.9 147.9 1.7 Can I conclude that the antenna is electrically short for the 2 meter band? Thanks for any insight, jimbo Thanks for all of the advice. I have one more question. Can I tune a J-Pole antenna in my shop and then move it to the attic and expect the same performance? In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? It would seem to me that if the antenna is tuned and works in my shop it should work in the attic. Otherwise, how do "store bought" antennas work? Thanks, jimbo |
#34
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jimbo wrote:
Thanks for all of the advice. I have one more question. Can I tune a J-Pole antenna in my shop and then move it to the attic and expect the same performance? In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? You can tune a J-Pole antenna at one place in free space, move it to another place in free space, and expect the same results. The real world is not so forgiving. The conditions will not be identical but they may (or may not) be close enough to be acceptable to you. Welcome to the real world of ham radio. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#35
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On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 06:51:16 -0700, jimbo wrote:
In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? Hi jimbo The second, the wire you call an antenna, its method of feed, and its environment are the radiator. With care, it may work straight out of the box, but your numbers already offer a different story; thus the question becomes "what constitutes care?" It would seem to me that if the antenna is tuned and works in my shop it should work in the attic. Otherwise, how do "store bought" antennas work? The market for antennas destined to be put in an attic is very small, hence you see very few for sale. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#36
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![]() "jimbo" wrote in message ... jimbo wrote: Thanks for all of the advice. I have one more question. Can I tune a J-Pole antenna in my shop and then move it to the attic and expect the same performance? In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? It would seem to me that if the antenna is tuned and works in my shop it should work in the attic. Otherwise, how do "store bought" antennas work? Thanks, jimbo I have built about twenty copper-pipe j-poles and I have found that with five feet or so between the antenna and surroundings, the tuning doesn't change enough to be annoying. The copper pipe j-pole can be dropped into a pipe and hoisted into the clear for VSWR evaluations if you really want to get gnats-assey about it. Speaking of that, I have found that j-poles usually don't hit 1:1, even when the low point is mid-band. However, after I get the best match, I insert a 100 pF capacitor between the coax center pin and the antenna and "Viola!" I stole that idea from the gamma match. |
#37
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#38
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On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 06:22:12 -0700, jimbo wrote:
wrote: On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 22:15:22 -0800, "Sal M. Onella" wrote: "jimbo" wrote in message ... jimbo wrote: Thanks for all of the advice. I have one more question. Can I tune a J-Pole antenna in my shop and then move it to the attic and expect the same performance? In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? It would seem to me that if the antenna is tuned and works in my shop it should work in the attic. Otherwise, how do "store bought" antennas work? Thanks, jimbo I have built about twenty copper-pipe j-poles and I have found that with five feet or so between the antenna and surroundings, the tuning doesn't change enough to be annoying. The copper pipe j-pole can be dropped into a pipe and hoisted into the clear for VSWR evaluations if you really want to get gnats-assey about it. I've found getting them 6ft (for 2m ) above the ground was enough that another 20ft didn't change it enough to measure. Speaking of that, I have found that j-poles usually don't hit 1:1, even when the low point is mid-band. However, after I get the best match, I insert a 100 pF capacitor between the coax center pin and the antenna and "Viola!" I stole that idea from the gamma match. I've had good swr match(1:1 or unmeasurably close) without the cap. Also the original poster has the ladder line based jpole in the attic. If it's like most I've seen the attic is within 5ft . Like I'd said elsewhere the twinlead and ladder line versions are fussier and tend to be different from one batch of wire to another. Allison Yes, the attic has the roof within five feet. No walls but lots of cross braces. I am going to tune a J-Pole in my shop and then take it to the attic and check the difference. jimbo I have a ladderline j-pole right outside my attic, in a small tree, and I lucked out on swr, just following the measurements I found on the internet diagram of the thing. One trick you might try is to stick a straight pin into the insulation, touching the longer wire element. Raise and lower the pin for resonance. bob k5qwg |
#39
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Must comment- that the answer is "MAYBE"! It depends on what is
UNDER that roof! If you have metal flashing (near vents, furnace pipeing), or insulation with a "VAPOR BARRIER" usually, aluminium foil backed, it may affect your ability to xmit a signal , and in the case of the latter, might make a great "FARIDAY SHIELD" (signal proof room)! And this would apply to comercial antennas as well! Tho, the wood in a roof, and the roofing material should be generally passive to even UHF, the other materials might be a problem. Dont give up hope, as have friend witha antenna (quad), on 6 meters, and 2 meters, in an attic dormer, if it had been insulated correctly, would have been relatively RF Proof! Might want to examine it before betting too complex! Jim -NN7K "jimbo" wrote in message ... jimbo wrote: Thanks for all of the advice. I have one more question. Can I tune a J-Pole antenna in my shop and then move it to the attic and expect the same performance? In other words, is an antenna an antenna or is an antenna and it's installation an antenna? It would seem to me that if the antenna is tuned and works in my shop it should work in the attic. Otherwise, how do "store bought" antennas work? Thanks, jimbo |
#40
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On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 08:12:51 -0700, jimbo wrote:
OK, I have a new 2 meter j-pole antenna installed in my 3rd floor attic. I have 50 feet of LMR240 coax running to the basement. I measure SWR at the following frequencies on simplex. 144.2 2.5 145.2 2.4 146.2 2.3 147.2 1.9 147.9 1.7 Can I conclude that the antenna is electrically short for the 2 meter band? Thanks for any insight, jimbo That or it is mis-matched -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
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