Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 10:52:54 -0700, Richard Clark
wrote: You must have some idea of what band you are going to use it on, what is it? 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC Thanks, Richard for the comments. I would like to use it for 75-6 meters as I am not worried about 160 meters. I would like to use it on 75 meters, as it is the band most likely to meet the coverage I am interested in, but also to operate all bands as I would like not to change antennas all the time. I have loaded the 20 meter and 40 meter antennas with it to see how it works on other bands, but they really suck!. I don't know if it is the way they are wound or what, but tuning the 20 for six works well, but not with other bands. Going lower doesn't help. As for the mobile vs base antennas, there may be some difference. The problem occurs when using a quarter wave or shorter dipole. However, a quarter wave vertical is a match! This is part of my questioning. Also, the fact that the tuner will be virtually at the antenna rather than the coax, may make some difference, although, technically, I think the coax would lower the reflected power to the tuner. The theory i was hearing was that the loading coil takes all the missing length of antenna and heats up. I can't imagine auto-tuners having as large a coil as this manual tuner. (It uses a wire wrapped around a toroid of some sort. ) I imagine an autotuner uses much smaller inductors tied together thru relays. I am trying to think of a type thurmometer that I could use that wouldn't interact with the tuner to see if it heats up. I will probably test the antenna this weekend if I can get the parts and time.... -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 22:57:40 -0400, Buck wrote:
I would like to use it for 75-6 meters as I am not worried about 160 meters. I would like to use it on 75 meters, as it is the band most likely to meet the coverage I am interested in, Hi Buck, All reports of short, mobile antennas on 80M generally cry crippled. That is, unless, they are augmented by center loads under top hats a dozen feet high or more. Even then, hardly remarkable unless you can stand to be down 2 S-Units out the gate. For some, this knowledge is a killer. For others who ignore it, they simply work those who can hear them. but also to operate all bands as I would like not to change antennas all the time. I have loaded the 20 meter and 40 meter antennas with it to see how it works on other bands, but they really suck!. Well, again, you are short on details. These two antennas (I presume you have introduced two more to the discussion) may be air cooled resistors for all their qualities you suggest. You might find an object lesson here. I don't know if it is the way they are wound or what, but tuning the 20 for six works well, but not with other bands. Going lower doesn't help. Barring details.... As for the mobile vs base antennas, there may be some difference. The problem occurs when using a quarter wave or shorter dipole. Mobile quarterwave dipole? However, a quarter wave vertical is a match! This is part of my questioning. Aside from this being natural, what could the question be? Also, the fact that the tuner will be virtually at the antenna rather than the coax, may make some difference, although, technically, I think the coax would lower the reflected power to the tuner. Many antennas are designed with a match external to them, but quite close by. Why would this be detrimental? Even more, many antennas are built with the match as part of them. They go by many names, Gamma being one. Certainly nothing is lost in their use. The theory i was hearing was that the loading coil takes all the missing length of antenna and heats up. Dare I say you can't trust everything you hear (read here)? Myself, I taught RF communications in the Navy and had no trouble whatever with the concept that a coil replaces the electrical length missing in a short antenna. However, the Navy was never a slave to fashion nor strict interpretation in this matter, and it was enough to observe this quid-pro-quo as symbolic, and not literal. I can't imagine auto-tuners having as large a coil as this manual tuner. (It uses a wire wrapped around a toroid of some sort. ) I imagine an autotuner uses much smaller inductors tied together thru relays. Indeed. I am trying to think of a type thurmometer that I could use that wouldn't interact with the tuner to see if it heats up. Yuri might suggest aquarium thermometers (Liquid Crystal) - but you would have to make sure the entire surface fit the entire strip (or versa vice). If you have a very old digital camera, then they were sensitive to IR. You could take a picture in the dark and resolve hot spots. I will probably test the antenna this weekend if I can get the parts and time.... Further reports would be interesting. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 22:07:00 -0700, Richard Clark
wrote: On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 22:57:40 -0400, Buck wrote: I would like to use it for 75-6 meters as I am not worried about 160 meters. I would like to use it on 75 meters, as it is the band most likely to meet the coverage I am interested in, Hi Buck, All reports of short, mobile antennas on 80M generally cry crippled. That is, unless, they are augmented by center loads under top hats a dozen feet high or more. Even then, hardly remarkable unless you can stand to be down 2 S-Units out the gate. For some, this knowledge is a killer. For others who ignore it, they simply work those who can hear them. I realize this. I have used a Hustler on 75 before. I was definitely a weak signal station. I can only imagine that a tuned whip would generate similar results, or more likely, poorer results. but also to operate all bands as I would like not to change antennas all the time. I have loaded the 20 meter and 40 meter antennas with it to see how it works on other bands, but they really suck!. Well, again, you are short on details. These two antennas (I presume you have introduced two more to the discussion) may be air cooled resistors for all their qualities you suggest. You might find an object lesson here. There are a total of four antennas I have mentioned in here for comparison sake. The Hustler, just mentioned above, the 102 whip with a possible 2 foot extension, and two Antenna Specialists (AS) (look exactly like HamSticks). I haven't had the Hustler for over a decade. I will introduce another antenna in this message later. The AS antennas are thin fiberglass poles with long stingers on the top. The fiberglass poles, of course, have copper wound around them from bottom to top, above which is a whip (stinger) about the same length as the pole. The hustler was a center loaded trap that was several inches in diameter and about 10-12 inches tall (the trap part) with a stinger on top. (You are probably familiar with the Hustler.) I also have a Volvo brand CB whip. It is a thin fiberglass whip similar to the bottom portions of the AS antennas, but it does not have a stinger. Like the AS antennas, the fiberglass has copper wire wound from bottom to top with the top tightly wound and the bottom section loosely wound. There is no stinger on top of the CB antenna. I previously did a little experimenting with the two AS antennas and the Volvo CB antenna (I don't have the 102 whip yet.) I used the tuner to compare receive signals on various active bands. the results weren't very good. Basically, each antenna performed best on the frequencies for which they were designed (no big surprise here) but they performed terribly on any other band. In fact, they were not even acceptable for use on other bands. The signal strength on 20 meters, for example went from s-9 on the 20 AS antenna to less than s-2 on the other antennas. I know others who have used the 102 steel whip/auto-tuner combination that I have talked to never complained that they only received s-2 signals with the system. Therefore, my theory is that the winding of the coil on the fiberglass poles is adversely affecting the radiation on out-of-band operation. I am hoping that the steel whip, with or without the extension, will perform better on all bands than any of these antennas tested. I realize it is a compromise but the loss of an s-unit or two in exchange for all band coverage for my mobile without having to switch antennas or get out of the car and change taps is an acceptable trade-off. Remember, too, that in the original post, money is a big issue. The purchase of a screwdriver (the best known mobile antenna design for all band coverage) is not an option at this time. My theory is that I should be able to mimic the 102 whip/auto-tuner results using a manual tuner. My question is whether or not the tuner itself can hold up to the task without being damaged. I don't know if it is the way they are wound or what, but tuning the 20 for six works well, but not with other bands. Going lower doesn't help. Barring details.... I think I addressed that above, the fiberglass poles are wrapped tightly at the top and then loosely to the bottom, a stinger extends from the tops of the AS antennas, and the Volvo antenna doesn't have a stinger. As for the mobile vs base antennas, there may be some difference. The problem occurs when using a quarter wave or shorter dipole. Mobile quarterwave dipole? base. The suggestion I was given was not to use the antenna tuner on a 20 meter dipole to tune a 40 meter frequency. This would be a 1/4 wave dipole on 40 meters. I don't know what the impedance of such an antenna would be, but I do know that a 1/4 wave vertical is a reasonable match. We never discussed the use of the tuner in the mobile. However, a quarter wave vertical is a match! This is part of my questioning. Aside from this being natural, what could the question be? Also, the fact that the tuner will be virtually at the antenna rather than the coax, may make some difference, although, technically, I think the coax would lower the reflected power to the tuner. Many antennas are designed with a match external to them, but quite close by. Why would this be detrimental? Even more, many antennas are built with the match as part of them. They go by many names, Gamma being one. Certainly nothing is lost in their use. The theory i was hearing was that the loading coil takes all the missing length of antenna and heats up. I should have clarified that this statement. The internal inductor of the tuner makes up the missing length of the antenna and heats up which can cause damage to the antenna tuner's inductor. This is how it was presented to me, or how I understood it. Again, the discussion was using the tuner to tune short dipoles to transmit on lower frequencies. Dare I say you can't trust everything you hear (read here)? Myself, I taught RF communications in the Navy and had no trouble whatever with the concept that a coil replaces the electrical length missing in a short antenna. However, the Navy was never a slave to fashion nor strict interpretation in this matter, and it was enough to observe this quid-pro-quo as symbolic, and not literal. I can't imagine auto-tuners having as large a coil as this manual tuner. (It uses a wire wrapped around a toroid of some sort. ) I imagine an autotuner uses much smaller inductors tied together thru relays. Indeed. I am trying to think of a type thurmometer that I could use that wouldn't interact with the tuner to see if it heats up. Yuri might suggest aquarium thermometers (Liquid Crystal) - but you would have to make sure the entire surface fit the entire strip (or versa vice). If you have a very old digital camera, then they were sensitive to IR. You could take a picture in the dark and resolve hot spots. I will probably test the antenna this weekend if I can get the parts and time.... Further reports would be interesting. I have been scheduled to work this weekend. I hope to be off Sunday, If I can, I will try testing the whip idea using the side mount on the van and if it appears to be promising, I will drill the holes in the roof to mount the whip there near the radio and tuner. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC 73 for now -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Buck wrote:
I have used a Hustler on 75 before. I was definitely a weak signal station. I can only imagine that a tuned whip would generate similar results, or more likely, poorer results. Following are the summarized normalized combined results of three 75m mobile antenna shootouts held in California during the 1980's. 0 dB - (Reference) Bugcatcher or Screwdriver with large top hat -2 dB - Bugcatcher or Screwdriver with no top hat -5 dB - 8.5' whip with bugcatcher base loading coil -6 dB - Bugcatcher with Stainless Steel Loading Coil -8 dB - Hustler High Power system -9 dB - Outbacker -12 dB - Hamstick -12 dB - 11.5' whip with SGC-230 autotuner -14 dB - 8.5' whip with SGC-230 autotuner (estimated, not measured) -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 14:19:33 GMT, Cecil Moore
wrote: Buck wrote: I have used a Hustler on 75 before. I was definitely a weak signal station. I can only imagine that a tuned whip would generate similar results, or more likely, poorer results. Following are the summarized normalized combined results of three 75m mobile antenna shootouts held in California during the 1980's. 0 dB - (Reference) Bugcatcher or Screwdriver with large top hat -2 dB - Bugcatcher or Screwdriver with no top hat -5 dB - 8.5' whip with bugcatcher base loading coil -6 dB - Bugcatcher with Stainless Steel Loading Coil -8 dB - Hustler High Power system -9 dB - Outbacker -12 dB - Hamstick -12 dB - 11.5' whip with SGC-230 autotuner -14 dB - 8.5' whip with SGC-230 autotuner (estimated, not measured) Thank you, that is good to see. -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 07:55:47 -0400, Buck wrote:
There are a total of four antennas I have mentioned in here for comparison sake. Hi Buck, They are by degrees poor, poorer and poorest. The Hustler You probably walked away from the best of the group here. the 102 whip with a possible 2 foot extension which isn't extension enough. and two Antenna Specialists (AS) the air-cooled resistors. The fiberglass poles, of course, have copper wound around them from bottom to top, above which is a whip (stinger) about the same length as the pole. These on something like 4 foot or longer extension poles would help you for a cheap solution to the lower bands. Adding a top hat to the stinger (yeah, impossible) would go further. (I don't have the 102 whip yet.) Get one, at hamfests they are cheaper than toilet paper. I know others who have used the 102 steel whip/auto-tuner combination that I have talked to never complained that they only received s-2 signals with the system. They would never notice on receive. The tuner made the difference. Therefore, my theory is that the winding of the coil on the fiberglass poles is adversely affecting the radiation on out-of-band operation. I am hoping that the steel whip, with or without the extension, will perform better on all bands than any of these antennas tested. A coil loading it halfway up would go further (AKA Bugcatcher). I realize it is a compromise but the loss of an s-unit or two in exchange for all band coverage for my mobile without having to switch antennas or get out of the car and change taps is an acceptable trade-off. Then using a cheap tuner (with a loaded antenna), by all means, is part of the solution. My question is whether or not the tuner itself can hold up to the task without being damaged. As an all band solution, you do stand the risk of one of them being a fire-breather. Just which is hardly predictable with any accuracy given the vast number of variables. There is certainly a strong correlation with longer wavelengths and short antennas. So, you might design two systems - cheaply, of course. Mobile quarterwave dipole? base. The suggestion I was given was not to use the antenna tuner on a 20 meter dipole to tune a 40 meter frequency. This would be a 1/4 wave dipole on 40 meters. I don't know what the impedance of such an antenna would be, but I do know that a 1/4 wave vertical is a reasonable match. Again, you should never believe everything you hear. A quarter wave dipole should be a snap to tune. On the other hand, using an 80M antenna on 40M could be a bear. Also, a quarterwave dipole is only vaguely related to a quarterwave vertical - um, let's just say that relationship is too strained to be compared. We never discussed the use of the tuner in the mobile. That was the first thing you said, it would be quite close to the proposed mount. Anyway, I have always considered it part of your cheap solution and it has a place there. I should have clarified that this statement. The internal inductor of the tuner makes up the missing length of the antenna and heats up which can cause damage to the antenna tuner's inductor. This is how it was presented to me, or how I understood it. Again, the discussion was using the tuner to tune short dipoles to transmit on lower frequencies. This is another instance of not believing everything - but it at least this time it offers a nugget of truth. This is the spin of the wheel of chance I mentioned above. Don't fret so much and simply try it in the driveway. Open the tuner, fire up the rig and tune for lowest SWR. Let go of the key and touch components to see how hot it's gotten. You don't need infra-red analysis and toolkit of thermocouple probes to obtain a good understanding of the situation. Repeat on all bands. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
SNIP
This is another instance of not believing everything - but it at least this time it offers a nugget of truth. This is the spin of the wheel of chance I mentioned above. Don't fret so much and simply try it in the driveway. Open the tuner, fire up the rig and tune for lowest SWR. Let go of the key and touch components to see how hot it's gotten. You don't need infra-red analysis and toolkit of thermocouple probes to obtain a good understanding of the situation. Repeat on all bands. 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC Thanks, After reading all this, I will be going to get the antenna. I have a mount on side of the van. i will re-wire it so it goes to an SO-239 connector so I can mount the tuner next to the antenna for the test. if all is well, I will get a hole kit and set it up on the roof. I like the bug-catcher idea, but I don't have the parts ![]() Thanks, again, Buck -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:37:46 -0400, Buck wrote:
I like the bug-catcher idea, but I don't have the parts ![]() You don't have any WIRE? This is preposterous. You split the vertical rise with an insulator and wind WIRE to fill the gap. End of story. Your job is to make it mechanically sound at 70MPH and thumb your nose at what may be called Q here. You want a bigger coil? Have dreams of that Q that marks status here? Wrap a coffee can with several many wraps of paper so it clears all seams and beads. Wrap turns of wire around the can/paper. Add epoxy in nice neat lines along six lengths around the circumference (use modeling or florist clay to build dams). Wait a couple of days for it to cure. Take out the can and paper. Clean off the clay. Paint it red, white, and blue! What can 40 or 50 feet of wire, clay, three colors of paint, and an ounce of epoxy cost? $5? 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 16:32:50 -0700, Richard Clark
wrote: On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:37:46 -0400, Buck wrote: I like the bug-catcher idea, but I don't have the parts ![]() You don't have any WIRE? This is preposterous. You split the vertical rise with an insulator and wind WIRE to fill the gap. End of story. Your job is to make it mechanically sound at 70MPH and thumb your nose at what may be called Q here. You want a bigger coil? Have dreams of that Q that marks status here? Wrap a coffee can with several many wraps of paper so it clears all seams and beads. Wrap turns of wire around the can/paper. Add epoxy in nice neat lines along six lengths around the circumference (use modeling or florist clay to build dams). Wait a couple of days for it to cure. Take out the can and paper. Clean off the clay. Paint it red, white, and blue! What can 40 or 50 feet of wire, clay, three colors of paint, and an ounce of epoxy cost? $5? 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC LOL I haven't looked into that yet. I will. Thanks. -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|