John Soto wrote:

I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

Product called "Coax-Seal". Non-hardening black putty.

I use standard electrical ductseal grey non hardening putty..have it at any
home depot or electric supply house
"Radioman" wrote in message
...
John Soto wrote:

I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

Product called "Coax-Seal". Non-hardening black putty.

On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 00:41:08 GMT, Builder hath writ:
I use standard electrical ductseal grey non hardening putty..
have it at any home depot or electric supply house

Just ask the guy for a brick of "Elephant ****".
He'll know what you want... g (We'll maybe not at Home Depot...)

Jonesy
--
| Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | OS/2
| Gunnison, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | linux __
| 7,703' -- 2,345m | config.com | DM68mn SK

On 25 Dec 2003 01:52:40 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
wrote:

On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 00:41:08 GMT, Builder hath writ:
I use standard electrical ductseal grey non hardening putty..
have it at any home depot or electric supply house

Just ask the guy for a brick of "Elephant ****".
He'll know what you want... g (We'll maybe not at Home Depot...)


I do it the cheap and easy way.
"Flooded" heat shrink tubing. You get it at the local electrical
supply houses.

It comes in several sizes, but the large size will fit *over* both
PL259s and type N connectors. It contains a lining that is like hot
glue. The stuff makes a compact, smooth, mechanically strong, and
water proof joint. Just make it long enough to extend out on to the
coax 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

I should shoot some photos of how I do it and how easy it is to do.
I've found nothing that is completely weather proof when it comes to
lightening. I had it blow every thing off the connectors at the top
of the tower, including the silver plating on the connectors. 15
minutes later there was water running out of one of my rigs. That was
when I changed from 9913 to LMR-400

My second preference is "Liquid Electrical tape". I used to find it in
marine stores, but Ace Hardware carries it now.

Just give the connectors and cable a couple of thorough coats. Let
dry about 5 minutes between coats.

It works as good as coax seal if you make sure you get everything
covered and it weathers well. It does not come off as easy as coax
seal, but then again it's a film that you can break and then re coat.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Jonesy

I use self vulcanizing plumbers tape (peel off the white strip stuff that
sticks to itself permanently when you overlap it) and one or two black cable
ties at the finishing end. (to hold it until the chemistry bonds them at the
molecular level - time depends on temperature)

when applied to clean surfaces, and you wrap 'up' so dripping water rolls
over the seams and not into them, it's leak-proof.

¡Ciao!

Hey, here's the best way to do this without it looking like **** and it will
still be easy to remove later if you need to change out LNBs or something.
use digiseals and digicon 360 degree crimp connectors also use a non
conductive grease on the threads. its the strongest connector on the market
and weatherproof to boot. All reputable installers use digicons and
digiseals with a grease if you really want to fullproof it then use a heat
shrink tube over the entire connector and digiseal.
"Radioman" wrote in message
...
John Soto wrote:

I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

Product called "Coax-Seal". Non-hardening black putty.

What I do is ensure all mating surfaces are clean and bright. Then I use Caige
Laboratories contact cleaner ($15 a can but it goes a long way). I use
"Stuff", and yes that is the name, teflon based insulating grease to coat the
surfaces and fill the voids; exess is wiped off. Then I use a bead of silicon
rubber to seal all joints, coax entry points into connectors, etc. After it
cures, I wrap the entire connection with Scotch or 3M black electrical tape,
2-3 wraps. Then I again use silicon rubber to completely coat the entire
assembly from end to end, sometimes with 2-3 coats. After all that cures, I
use CoaxSeal on top of that. I've had connectors last 10+ years that way, not
sure how much longer they would have lasted since I took the antennas down when
I moved.

Evan

In article , (K9SQG) writes:

| What I do is ensure all mating surfaces are clean and bright. Then I use Caige
| Laboratories contact cleaner ($15 a can but it goes a long way). I use
| "Stuff", and yes that is the name, teflon based insulating grease to coat the
| surfaces and fill the voids; exess is wiped off.

Are there any problems using STUF with higher frequencies (e.g., 2.4GHz)? The
insertion loss comparison chart they provide stops around 1.4GHz, though they
don't mention specific problems going higher...

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

In message , John Soto
writes
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.



Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.
--

Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.

Ian,

Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?
And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Nick