Many years ago I remember having a receiver that used a metal 6V6 in the
audio output.
It ran stinking hot so I replaced it with a 6V6G.
This ran much cooler!

Find a place to get 6-12 volts (rectify the filament voltage) and put in a
little LM386 audio amp.
All your heat problems are instantly gone.
Of course you get 1/4 watt of audio instead of 10 watts.......

Rick K2XT

....and of course you get way away from the Boatanchors philosophy! I think
it's preferable to discreetly unerrun the valve.

"Rick" wrote in message
...
Find a place to get 6-12 volts (rectify the filament voltage) and put in a
little LM386 audio amp.
All your heat problems are instantly gone.
Of course you get 1/4 watt of audio instead of 10 watts.......

Rick K2XT

...and of course you get way away from the Boatanchors philosophy! I think
it's preferable to discreetly unerrun the valve.

Oh, one could leave the filaments lit, and hide the little chip away back in
a corner under some wiring harness.
The receiver might last longer in the process !

Sacrilege! What has this ng come to?

"Rick" wrote in message
...

...and of course you get way away from the Boatanchors philosophy! I
think
it's preferable to discreetly unerrun the valve.

Oh, one could leave the filaments lit, and hide the little chip away back
in a corner under some wiring harness.
The receiver might last longer in the process !

On Jul 24, 3:45*pm, "Rick" wrote:
...and of course you get way away from the Boatanchors philosophy! I think
it's preferable to discreetly unerrun the valve.

Oh, one could leave the filaments lit, and hide the little chip away back in
a corner under some wiring harness.
The receiver might last longer in the process !

But his tubes are metal so why light the filament? Of course, the s/c
solution is sacrilege - no way! I'd just switch the tubes to 6K6G's -
less heat and a nice glow and change the bias to AB (you don't need
class A P-P Hi-Fi quality!)
Cheers,
Roger