Chuck Harris wrote:

The black wire is called Line, or we can call it hot+
The white wire is called neutral, or we can call it hot-
The green wire is the safety ground, and it goes to pretty
much any screw on a permanent part of the metal chassis.
(eg. don't use a cover screw, if you can avoid it.)

Technically, the green wire is supposed to have a crimped on
lug that is a closed circle, rather than a fork. This is
so that if the screw loosens, it won't fall off right away.

If the FT101 doesn't have markings for line and neutral, it is
usually a good idea to make sure that the line (black) goes to
the fuse. If Yuasu did things correctly, the other side of the
fuse should go to a switch, or relay contact.

[Note, if the fuse is one of the type with a screw in, or
bayonetted cap, the side of the fuse that goes closest to the
power line should be the hidden center pin. This prevents
you from getting zapped when you change the fuse. I have seen
a lot of manufacturers get this wrong.]

-Chuck


Chuck, I worked as a production test tech at Microdyne on everything
except the Scientific Atlanta telemetry product we subcontracted. A new
employee in assembly mis-wired the round metal power connector and QA
missed it: The white and green wires went to the main power switch, and
the black was connected to the chassis. Another tech ignored the written
test procedure and plugged it in for initial testing to see that it
didn't come on. He leaned over to unplug it with one hand on the
aluminum case and his other hand brushed against the bare metal outlet
box where the radio was plugged in. He got a nasty shock and if it
hadn't caused his muscles to contract violently, he would probably be
dead. After that he never questioned the step that required the power
cord to be checked with an ohm meter BEFORE the radio was plugged in.


--
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Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida