"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
...

"DR. Death" wrote in message
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"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
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"DR. Death" wrote in message
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"Chad Wahls" wrote in message
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"DR. Death" wrote in message
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"Leland C. Scott" wrote in message
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"DR. Death" wrote in message
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"Leland C. Scott" wrote in message
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http://www.detnews.com/2004/macomb/0...b05-300663.htm


--
Leland C. Scott
KC8LDO

Wireless Network
Mobile computing
on the go brought
to you by Micro$oft


That's pretty sweet. I have a kicker zr1000 in my neon.

Then check this out.

http://www.kicker.com/ShowPage.cfm?filename=venpt2.htm


--
Leland C. Scott
KC8LDO

Wireless Network
Mobile computing
on the go brought
to you by Micro$oft




I wonder how many alternators they had to install. If I turn the
gain
up
on
mine I lose tons of horse power.



Horse power and wattts can be converted in a linear equation, all
you
need
to know at this point is the efficiency of your amp and alternator.
My
old
rig pulled 11HP, haven't calculated the new one but the sub amp is
digital
and WAY more efficient. it will beat your head on the dash and I
still
have
yet to see it pull more than 25A.

The mid/hi's (biamped) (for the audiophiles) are class A/B biased
into
A
for
a long time it runs pretty warm for such a light load so I loose it
there
.


Chad


I've never put an ammeter on it, but it's fused at 150 amps. Neon's
aren't
known for having any horse power anyway. It's a very slow car.



My amp is fused at 90 but tried it at 25 for ****s and grins, no
problem
balls out. But like I said, it's not loaded down to a super low
impedance.

Chad


I'm running mine 2 ohms bridged.



Each amp channel is seeing 1 ohm, I would never do this to an amp I paid
money for.

Speakers have an impedance response much like antenna's, It's actually
dipping below 2 ohms at certain freqs. You don't know which unless you
have
done an impedance plot on the box. I take it you are using 2 (X) 4 ohm
subs? Try it in 4 ohm stereo and see if you gain fidelity. You should
get
a lot more headroom and more "punch" (god I hate that word). You need
that
reserve capacity for metal because the attack of a 20" Tama pro star is
much
greater than that of your average Roland 808 beat box.

I see it all the time in Pro audio, people see the big power number and go
for it, under the mentality of "if the number is bigger it has to sound
better".

If it's in your truck you probably won't notice a max output difference
due
to the fact that the transfer function starts so high and your skin is not
as sensitive to tactile "hearing" as your ears are. It will just be
quicker
and sound better. Metallica "one" is asways good to see if an amp is
running out of poop in the dynamic end. Each one of those double kick
stabs
should sound the same. If the first has great attack and the rest just
rumble you are killing the power supply and should unload it a tad.

Keep in mind these are crude methods but often work and are easy to
explain
in a CB newsgroup.

Good luck, Chad



The amp is rated at 1 ohm stereo 2 ohms mono, but you are correct, I went
for putting out max power and I have to keep the gain turned down the way it
is set up. I'll swap it and try the metallica method and see what it sounds
like. I would rather it sound good at lower wattage anyway, particularly
since I went to the expense of buying high end infinity kappa perfect subs.
I'll let you know how it turns out.