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Leece Neville value
I have a chance to pick up like 8 used 105 amp Leece Nevilles for $15 a
piece..Is this to low of an output to make it worth grabbing them and attempting to turn around and sell them?..Thanks The internet is more than a global pornography network |
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Programbo5 wrote:
I have a chance to pick up like 8 used 105 amp Leece Nevilles for $15 a piece..Is this to low of an output to make it worth grabbing them and attempting to turn around and sell them?..Thanks The internet is more than a global pornography network I'd buy 'em, rewrap 'em, put bigger regulators on 'em, and use 'em, but that's me. -SSB |
Not needed by anyone operating legally.
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Not needed by anyone operating legally.
Now you see right away you are thinking something negative..Since this is a CB newsgroup maybe a lot of OTR truckers read here and might need a big alternator for thier Freightliner or Peterbuilt The internet is more than a global pornography network |
Hello Programo5:
At 15 dollars each, and used sounds like there are not in premium shape. It may be possible to have them rewound for a higher current, for running a 4 or 8 pill amps. My 4 pill 2SC2789 amp will draw 75 to 80 amps with no problem. A 105 amp alternator may have a higher peak current capability than just 105 amps. I have never measured it but I would think it would have say a 10 to 20 percent higher peak intermittent rating. Anybody know about this or measured it? Most Installations I have seen with a 8 pill amp have had only a 100 amp or so Alternator. So when the 8 pill amp wants to draw say double of what a 4 pill amp will draw something like 150 to 160 amps or more, the Alternator will put out its maximum output current, but the voltage will drop, and the battery will start to put out current. And when the amp is unkeyed the Alternator will try to recharge the battery, at a rapid rate. Its possible to get behind the curve of the Alternator charging the Battery, and the battery can over heat and possible be damaged with high current charging over a long period of time. A lot of guys use large batteries. I think the large batteries is a bad call as the Alternator should be able to source all the current, to keep the voltage as close 14 volts under load to keep the out put power up there. And if a second Alternator is installed it can be wired to also charge the vehicles battery or run the electrical system should the stock Alternator fail. When the guys volt the amps, running more than 14 volts to increase the out put power even more, then you must have one or more Alternators that will have the current capability to maintain the higher voltage. The Alternators outputs can be connected together as they are diode isolated internally, so feedback from one alternator into another alternator will NOT happen. One of the really neat installations I saw at one of the shoot-outs, was a Bird Watt meter modified to also be able to indicate the amplifier input voltage and current. And many guys have a separate volt and amp meter on the dash to indicate the voltages and currents, pretty neat-o. Jay in the Mojave Programbo5 wrote: I have a chance to pick up like 8 used 105 amp Leece Nevilles for $15 a piece..Is this to low of an output to make it worth grabbing them and attempting to turn around and sell them?..Thanks The internet is more than a global pornography network |
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:15:14 -0800, Jay in the Mojave
wrote in : Hello Programo5: At 15 dollars each, and used sounds like there are not in premium shape. It may be possible to have them rewound for a higher current, for running a 4 or 8 pill amps. My 4 pill 2SC2789 amp will draw 75 to 80 amps with no problem. A 105 amp alternator may have a higher peak current capability than just 105 amps. I have never measured it but I would think it would have say a 10 to 20 percent higher peak intermittent rating. Anybody know about this or measured it? The current rating is for a specific RPM which is typically high. The current drops off to a bare minimum at idle which is why you sometimes see the idiot light come on while waiting at a stop light. Most Installations I have seen with a 8 pill amp have had only a 100 amp or so Alternator. So when the 8 pill amp wants to draw say double of what a 4 pill amp will draw something like 150 to 160 amps or more, the Alternator will put out its maximum output current, but the voltage will drop, and the battery will start to put out current. And when the amp is unkeyed the Alternator will try to recharge the battery, at a rapid rate. Its possible to get behind the curve of the Alternator charging the Battery, and the battery can over heat and possible be damaged with high current charging over a long period of time. Starting-type (auto) batteries are designed for fast charging. However, a deep-cycle battery would be ruined by such cycling. A lot of guys use large batteries. I think the large batteries is a bad call as the Alternator should be able to source all the current, to keep the voltage as close 14 volts under load to keep the out put power up there. Lead-acid batteries under charge (engine running) have a thing called "surface charge" that's higher than the nominal 12.6 battery voltage. Larger batteries have a larger surface charge, and when under load they tend to keep up the system voltage better than smaller batteries. And if a second Alternator is installed it can be wired to also charge the vehicles battery or run the electrical system should the stock Alternator fail. You might have a problem with the regulators. If more than one alternator is used it's best to run the second from a 'slave' regulator that's controlled by a 'master' on the first alternator. If you don't then one alternator will pull the full load until the voltage drops down to the regulated voltage of the second. The result is "stepped" regulation and can be quite noisy. When the guys volt the amps, running more than 14 volts to increase the out put power even more, then you must have one or more Alternators that will have the current capability to maintain the higher voltage. Max current is dictated only by the wire size. Without the regulator, voltage is limited by the PIV of the rectifiers and the insulation breakdown voltage. The latter is usually very high (~600 volts) so if the rectifiers have a reasonably high voltage rating then you can trash the internal regulator and use an external regulator to get voltages up to 100 volts or more, depending on how fast you can spin the rotor. But if all you want is max current at 16 to 18 volts then a smaller pulley would probably do the trick. The Alternators outputs can be connected together as they are diode isolated internally, so feedback from one alternator into another alternator will NOT happen. One of the really neat installations I saw at one of the shoot-outs, was a Bird Watt meter modified to also be able to indicate the amplifier input voltage and current. And many guys have a separate volt and amp meter on the dash to indicate the voltages and currents, pretty neat-o. ......uh, voltmeters and ammeters in the dash aren't exactly new ideas. Neither are voltmeters and ammeters at the input to the amp -- that's how input power is measured. The old "5-watt" CB radios were rated by their input power, and years ago the ham radio limits were also by input power. Nothing new here except the modification of a Bird to do the job of a cheap multimeter. |
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Hello Frank:
Hope you had a enjoyable Christmas. Frank Gilliland wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:15:14 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : Hello Programo5: At 15 dollars each, and used sounds like there are not in premium shape. It may be possible to have them rewound for a higher current, for running a 4 or 8 pill amps. My 4 pill 2SC2789 amp will draw 75 to 80 amps with no problem. A 105 amp alternator may have a higher peak current capability than just 105 amps. I have never measured it but I would think it would have say a 10 to 20 percent higher peak intermittent rating. Anybody know about this or measured it? The current rating is for a specific RPM which is typically high. The current drops off to a bare minimum at idle which is why you sometimes see the idiot light come on while waiting at a stop light. Gee whiz Frank, I have never seen the idiot light come on while idling, with a alternator. Back in the 60s, the ol man had a Ford F100 Custom Cab, Red Bucket Seats (OH YEAH!) with a 292 Y block that had the old generator that would light up the idiot light while at a stop light. I modified a Bronco, removing the 170 CI six cyclender and installing a 302 V8, during the 70's and did business with Bill Stroup Racing in Long Beach Ca. Dear ol Dad called them up and asked what could be done to improve the horse power in his truck as the 292 Y Block wouldn't do wheel stands and left him in the slow lane way too long. So Dad installed a Lincoln 430 with the automatic tranny. WOW! what a difference. We had to replace the 4:11 gears and the read end to a 3/4 ton rear end, and 3:73 gears. The Palomar 150 Tube amp made a high pitched noise due to the high out put alternator, Biiitcheeeen! Most Installations I have seen with a 8 pill amp have had only a 100 amp or so Alternator. So when the 8 pill amp wants to draw say double of what a 4 pill amp will draw something like 150 to 160 amps or more, the Alternator will put out its maximum output current, but the voltage will drop, and the battery will start to put out current. And when the amp is unkeyed the Alternator will try to recharge the battery, at a rapid rate. Its possible to get behind the curve of the Alternator charging the Battery, and the battery can over heat and possible be damaged with high current charging over a long period of time. Starting-type (auto) batteries are designed for fast charging. However, a deep-cycle battery would be ruined by such cycling. Yeah good call there. I replaced the wimpy 35 amp alternator on my "Put and Park Mini truck with a 120 amp alternator. And had to modify the regulator to have a delayed response to charge the battery as the bigger alternator tried to charge the battery as it the engine was trying to start. The 4 pill amp amp really got up and barked then. A lot of guys use large batteries. I think the large batteries is a bad call as the Alternator should be able to source all the current, to keep the voltage as close 14 volts under load to keep the out put power up there. Lead-acid batteries under charge (engine running) have a thing called "surface charge" that's higher than the nominal 12.6 battery voltage. Larger batteries have a larger surface charge, and when under load they tend to keep up the system voltage better than smaller batteries. Das right. Wonder what those spec are? And if a second Alternator is installed it can be wired to also charge the vehicles battery or run the electrical system should the stock Alternator fail. You might have a problem with the regulators. If more than one alternator is used it's best to run the second from a 'slave' regulator that's controlled by a 'master' on the first alternator. If you don't then one alternator will pull the full load until the voltage drops down to the regulated voltage of the second. The result is "stepped" regulation and can be quite noisy. Is this advice from experience? I have seen many alternators tied together and not noticed any noise. When the load is applied to the alternators is when they will be putting out the high currents, and voltage regulators will be monitoring the out put of its alternator. I know at times the alternator diodes shutting off will cause a noise, that can be cured by a bypass capacitor on the alternators output terminal. When the guys volt the amps, running more than 14 volts to increase the out put power even more, then you must have one or more Alternators that will have the current capability to maintain the higher voltage. Max current is dictated only by the wire size. Without the regulator, voltage is limited by the PIV of the rectifiers and the insulation breakdown voltage. The latter is usually very high (~600 volts) so if the rectifiers have a reasonably high voltage rating then you can trash the internal regulator and use an external regulator to get voltages up to 100 volts or more, depending on how fast you can spin the rotor. But if all you want is max current at 16 to 18 volts then a smaller pulley would probably do the trick. Yeah thats how I think the AC Sky class of steel amplifiers are powered. A alternator diodes are removed, and feeds a input of a 3 phase transformer and it transforms the voltages to a much higher for the tubes high voltage B+ voltages. And I have seen external diodes wired in to allow more current capability. I have seen the after market voltage regulator that allow the alternator voltages to reach 18 Volts DC. Wonder how long the amps last doing that? The Alternators outputs can be connected together as they are diode isolated internally, so feedback from one alternator into another alternator will NOT happen. One of the really neat installations I saw at one of the shoot-outs, was a Bird Watt meter modified to also be able to indicate the amplifier input voltage and current. And many guys have a separate volt and amp meter on the dash to indicate the voltages and currents, pretty neat-o. .....uh, voltmeters and ammeters in the dash aren't exactly new ideas. Neither are voltmeters and ammeters at the input to the amp -- that's how input power is measured. The old "5-watt" CB radios were rated by their input power, and years ago the ham radio limits were also by input power. Nothing new here except the modification of a Bird to do the job of a cheap multimeter. I am not saying this is a new idea, but a neat capability to have. And one has to appreciate the work and ingenuity that goes into this type of installation. Some of the guys have taken surplus Bird meters and added them to the dash instrument cluster with back lights that look really trick, that indicate voltage and current. A cluster of the Bird Meters showing forward and reverse power, voltage and current look great. Especillay when the mic is keyed and the back lights come on brighter. I am planing to have my machinist drill in some small holes in my Bird Watt Meter Model 43, just above the meter, so that a row of small LED's can be installed that will indicate the Peak Instantness Power (PIP). Not the RMS value which is the PEP value, but a power measurement taken from the actual peak of the voltage, which will be a 3 dB increase in indicated power. And make ya feel that your getting more power out. A cheap way to make ya feel ya is ah gettin out hehehhehe. Jay in the Mojave |
I can rebuilt them myself if need be..But just the basics like replacing
brushes,regulators,diodes etc..Never did any rewinding but I do have access to high wattage solder equip etc...But they are all in perfect functioning condition..They are just from some charter buses that are being scraped off to the junkyard because of age..I`m going to head down there now and grab several of the newer looking ones just for the hell of it..Even if I never use them once I test them and replace the brushes etc I should still be able to turn alittle profit on them as I am in the tractor trailer parts business and go to a bunch of repair shops everyday The internet is more than a global pornography network |
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 08:56:43 -0800, Jay in the Mojave
wrote in : Hello Frank: Hope you had a enjoyable Christmas. I did, thanks. Did you have fun decorating the Joshua Tree? Frank Gilliland wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:15:14 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : Hello Programo5: At 15 dollars each, and used sounds like there are not in premium shape. It may be possible to have them rewound for a higher current, for running a 4 or 8 pill amps. My 4 pill 2SC2789 amp will draw 75 to 80 amps with no problem. A 105 amp alternator may have a higher peak current capability than just 105 amps. I have never measured it but I would think it would have say a 10 to 20 percent higher peak intermittent rating. Anybody know about this or measured it? The current rating is for a specific RPM which is typically high. The current drops off to a bare minimum at idle which is why you sometimes see the idiot light come on while waiting at a stop light. Gee whiz Frank, I have never seen the idiot light come on while idling, with a alternator. I see you have never been a used car salesman. It happens more often with carbeurated vehicles, rarely with modern fuel injection systems. Back in the 60s, the ol man had a Ford F100 Custom Cab, Red Bucket Seats (OH YEAH!) with a 292 Y block that had the old generator that would light up the idiot light while at a stop light. I modified a Bronco, removing the 170 CI six cyclender and installing a 302 V8, during the 70's and did business with Bill Stroup Racing in Long Beach Ca. Dear ol Dad called them up and asked what could be done to improve the horse power in his truck as the 292 Y Block wouldn't do wheel stands and left him in the slow lane way too long. So Dad installed a Lincoln 430 with the automatic tranny. WOW! what a difference. We had to replace the 4:11 gears and the read end to a 3/4 ton rear end, and 3:73 gears. The Palomar 150 Tube amp made a high pitched noise due to the high out put alternator, Biiitcheeeen! ......hmmmmm Most Installations I have seen with a 8 pill amp have had only a 100 amp or so Alternator. So when the 8 pill amp wants to draw say double of what a 4 pill amp will draw something like 150 to 160 amps or more, the Alternator will put out its maximum output current, but the voltage will drop, and the battery will start to put out current. And when the amp is unkeyed the Alternator will try to recharge the battery, at a rapid rate. Its possible to get behind the curve of the Alternator charging the Battery, and the battery can over heat and possible be damaged with high current charging over a long period of time. Starting-type (auto) batteries are designed for fast charging. However, a deep-cycle battery would be ruined by such cycling. Yeah good call there. I replaced the wimpy 35 amp alternator on my "Put and Park Mini truck with a 120 amp alternator. And had to modify the regulator to have a delayed response to charge the battery as the bigger alternator tried to charge the battery as it the engine was trying to start. The 4 pill amp amp really got up and barked then. Some of the newer cars have something like that built-in -- some of them you have to rev the engine before the alternator will take over the system and the alternator light goes out. A lot of guys use large batteries. I think the large batteries is a bad call as the Alternator should be able to source all the current, to keep the voltage as close 14 volts under load to keep the out put power up there. Lead-acid batteries under charge (engine running) have a thing called "surface charge" that's higher than the nominal 12.6 battery voltage. Larger batteries have a larger surface charge, and when under load they tend to keep up the system voltage better than smaller batteries. Das right. Wonder what those spec are? I don't think batteries are spec'd for surface charge. And if a second Alternator is installed it can be wired to also charge the vehicles battery or run the electrical system should the stock Alternator fail. You might have a problem with the regulators. If more than one alternator is used it's best to run the second from a 'slave' regulator that's controlled by a 'master' on the first alternator. If you don't then one alternator will pull the full load until the voltage drops down to the regulated voltage of the second. The result is "stepped" regulation and can be quite noisy. Is this advice from experience? Actually, yes. I have seen many alternators tied together and not noticed any noise. When the load is applied to the alternators is when they will be putting out the high currents, and voltage regulators will be monitoring the out put of its alternator. I know at times the alternator diodes shutting off will cause a noise, that can be cured by a bypass capacitor on the alternators output terminal. You probably didn't notice any noise because you were running AM and the load drew down to the second alternator on key-up. Running SSB would be a different story and your audio would include a 'clicking' that followed the audio. But of course you wouldn't hear it anyway because it happens when you are transmitting. Anyway, stepped regulation is very hard on an alternator, causing frequent surges through the field coil and regulator. They aren't designed to work like that. When the guys volt the amps, running more than 14 volts to increase the out put power even more, then you must have one or more Alternators that will have the current capability to maintain the higher voltage. Max current is dictated only by the wire size. Without the regulator, voltage is limited by the PIV of the rectifiers and the insulation breakdown voltage. The latter is usually very high (~600 volts) so if the rectifiers have a reasonably high voltage rating then you can trash the internal regulator and use an external regulator to get voltages up to 100 volts or more, depending on how fast you can spin the rotor. But if all you want is max current at 16 to 18 volts then a smaller pulley would probably do the trick. Yeah thats how I think the AC Sky class of steel amplifiers are powered. A alternator diodes are removed, and feeds a input of a 3 phase transformer and it transforms the voltages to a much higher for the tubes high voltage B+ voltages. And I have seen external diodes wired in to allow more current capability. I have seen the after market voltage regulator that allow the alternator voltages to reach 18 Volts DC. Wonder how long the amps last doing that? Depends on the amp. To be perfectly frank, if I used an amp I wouldn't even mess with anything that runs from 12-14 volts. If solid-state I would use 28 volt -minimum- for several reasons: power leads are smaller and have less loss; transistors are more linear; efficiency is higher because bias is a smaller percent of supply (CE bias can be as high as 3-4 volts under heavy load, dropping nearly a third of your supply voltage); voltage difference between battery and alternator is smaller; etc, etc. The Alternators outputs can be connected together as they are diode isolated internally, so feedback from one alternator into another alternator will NOT happen. One of the really neat installations I saw at one of the shoot-outs, was a Bird Watt meter modified to also be able to indicate the amplifier input voltage and current. And many guys have a separate volt and amp meter on the dash to indicate the voltages and currents, pretty neat-o. .....uh, voltmeters and ammeters in the dash aren't exactly new ideas. Neither are voltmeters and ammeters at the input to the amp -- that's how input power is measured. The old "5-watt" CB radios were rated by their input power, and years ago the ham radio limits were also by input power. Nothing new here except the modification of a Bird to do the job of a cheap multimeter. I am not saying this is a new idea, but a neat capability to have. And one has to appreciate the work and ingenuity that goes into this type of installation. Some of the guys have taken surplus Bird meters and added them to the dash instrument cluster with back lights that look really trick, that indicate voltage and current. A cluster of the Bird Meters showing forward and reverse power, voltage and current look great. Especillay when the mic is keyed and the back lights come on brighter. I am planing to have my machinist drill in some small holes in my Bird Watt Meter Model 43, just above the meter, so that a row of small LED's can be installed that will indicate the Peak Instantness Power (PIP). Not the RMS value which is the PEP value, but a power measurement taken from the actual peak of the voltage, which will be a 3 dB increase in indicated power. And make ya feel that your getting more power out. A cheap way to make ya feel ya is ah gettin out hehehhehe. Maybe that's why Motorola designated their cheap CB amp transistors as MRF454 and MRF455 -- to appeal to the 'big engine' mentality. |
"Jay in the Mojave" wrote in message ... Hello Frank: I modified a Bronco, So do I, but mine not very modified. removing the 170 CI six cyclender and installing a 302 V8, Mine is a stock 2 barrel 302, now has 86,000 miles during the 70's and did business with Bill Stroup Racing in Long Beach Ca. Hey, mine is a Baja Stroppe, made in April 1973. Dear ol Dad called them up and asked what could be done to improve the horse power in his truck as the 292 Y Block wouldn't do wheel stands and left him in the slow lane way too long. So Dad installed a Lincoln 430 with the automatic tranny. LOL!!! A C4 trans no doubt. WOW! what a difference. We had to replace the 4:11 gears and the read end to a 3/4 ton rear end, and 3:73 gears. The Palomar 150 Tube amp made a high pitched noise due to the high out put alternator, Biiitcheeeen! Yeah, they only came with a 45 amp alt, not enough for the Bronco, let alone a good amp. I put a 200 amp alt & dual batts in my Bronco. Jay in the Mojave |
Hello Frank:
Frank Gilliland wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 08:56:43 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : Hello Frank: Hope you had a enjoyable Christmas. I did, thanks. Did you have fun decorating the Joshua Tree? Thats a big Bozo No No, we are not allowed to cut down the Joshua Tree's and such. But some people do put lights on them. There is a commitee that use to go around and count the darn tree's. New contruction is the omnly way I seen them cut down and removed. I have a few tree's on my property but there out of the way. You might have a problem with the regulators. If more than one alternator is used it's best to run the second from a 'slave' regulator that's controlled by a 'master' on the first alternator. If you don't then one alternator will pull the full load until the voltage drops down to the regulated voltage of the second. The result is "stepped" regulation and can be quite noisy. Is this advice from experience? Actually, yes. Ok I have not heard of this noise but will keep an ear for it. I have seen many alternators tied together and not noticed any noise. When the load is applied to the alternators is when they will be putting out the high currents, and voltage regulators will be monitoring the out put of its alternator. I know at times the alternator diodes shutting off will cause a noise, that can be cured by a bypass capacitor on the alternators output terminal. You probably didn't notice any noise because you were running AM and the load drew down to the second alternator on key-up. Running SSB would be a different story and your audio would include a 'clicking' that followed the audio. But of course you wouldn't hear it anyway because it happens when you are transmitting. Anyway, stepped regulation is very hard on an alternator, causing frequent surges through the field coil and regulator. They aren't designed to work like that. I have to agree with that. The 120 amp alternator I had on my put and park mini truck feed the vehicles system and of course charged the battery. I used a 4 pill Amp that had wild differances in current draw from almost nothing to a full on 80 amp draw. This was noticable when the engine was running at around 3000 RPMs going down the highway while talking SSB. It would end up stretching the single V belt that would only last about 4 weeks. I came to have several spares belts and made up a tool kit that would allow a fast change of the belt, as I got good at it from experence. As I had changed many belts, I finnialy installed the stock 65 amp alternator from just being sick and tired of having to change the belt. Maybe that's why Motorola designated their cheap CB amp transistors as MRF454 and MRF455 -- to appeal to the 'big engine' mentality. Yeah I am sure thats possible, but the nerd linger who designates the numbers I am sure sets behind a desk and has his car serviced by normal people. I would have a number like MRF-HP/454CI-Inc. hehehehehhehe Matched transistors would go by Balanced MRF-HP/454CI-Hipo Inc Or even PT2M454-Hipo Inc (Pettle to the Metal) OH YEAH! Jay in the Mojave |
Hello Landshark:
Yeah I remember my stock 45 amp alternator on the 170 six cyclender engine. I replaced the six 170CI engine with a 240 CI big six, but would have to had the front end lengthen a little. So another trip Bill Stroups place to get the factory V8 Engine mounts, that welded on nicly. I had a 1964 Comet Calenty that had a lot of head work done. So the heads went on a new 302 short block. Heads make a engine run. The 45 amp alternator didnt last long with 4 each 100 watt off road aircraft landing lights. After a long night run at Pismo Beach California, 4 wheeling in the sand dunes and talking all over the place on the radios all night long, I could smell the alternator windings. The next morning I checked the alternator and it was Ka-Put. Jim's Auto Parts and Machine shop brought me out a new 65 amp replacement alternator, right out on the beach where we where camped. Again the CB radio was a big help with the locals and such. Jay in the Mojave Landshark wrote: "Jay in the Mojave" wrote in message ... Hello Frank: I modified a Bronco, So do I, but mine not very modified. removing the 170 CI six cyclender and installing a 302 V8, Mine is a stock 2 barrel 302, now has 86,000 miles during the 70's and did business with Bill Stroup Racing in Long Beach Ca. Hey, mine is a Baja Stroppe, made in April 1973. Dear ol Dad called them up and asked what could be done to improve the horse power in his truck as the 292 Y Block wouldn't do wheel stands and left him in the slow lane way too long. So Dad installed a Lincoln 430 with the automatic tranny. LOL!!! A C4 trans no doubt. WOW! what a difference. We had to replace the 4:11 gears and the read end to a 3/4 ton rear end, and 3:73 gears. The Palomar 150 Tube amp made a high pitched noise due to the high out put alternator, Biiitcheeeen! Yeah, they only came with a 45 amp alt, not enough for the Bronco, let alone a good amp. I put a 200 amp alt & dual batts in my Bronco. Jay in the Mojave |
"Jay in the Mojave" wrote in message ... Hello Landshark: Yeah I remember my stock 45 amp alternator on the 170 six cyclender engine. I replaced the six 170CI engine with a 240 CI big six, but would have to had the front end lengthen a little. So another trip Bill Stroups place to get the factory V8 Engine mounts, that welded on nicly. Very important to do when converting a I6 to V8. If you don't the engine will sit to far back and you'll have to pound in the firewall to make it fit. I had a 1964 Comet Calenty that had a lot of head work done. So the heads went on a new 302 short block. Heads make a engine run. Yes! It makes the motor breathe............ The 45 amp alternator didnt last long with 4 each 100 watt off road aircraft landing lights. After a long night run at Pismo Beach California, 4 wheeling in the sand dunes and talking all over the place on the radios all night long, I could smell the alternator windings. Ah, the sweet smell of coinage dropping ;) The next morning I checked the alternator and it was Ka-Put. Jim's Auto Parts and Machine shop brought me out a new 65 amp replacement alternator, right out on the beach where we where camped. Again the CB radio was a big help with the locals and such. Jay in the Mojave Yeah, contrary what a couple of trolls here say, they are a great help. My Stroppe is stock with the exception of a Tuffy center consol, 200 amp alt, dual batts. I've already been offered $35,000.00 for it, but turned it down. I'll be in LA for Fabulous Ford Forever in April ( or March, never can remember) with it, showing it off an Angelo's Burgers in Anaheim the night Before. Landshark -- Is it so frightening to have me at your shoulder? Thunder and lightning couldn't be bolder. I'll write on your tombstone, ``I thank you for dinner.'' This game that we animals play is a winner. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 04:11:38 -0800, Jay in the Mojave
wrote in : snip Is this advice from experience? Actually, yes. Ok I have not heard of this noise but will keep an ear for it. Even better, install two ammeters (one on each alternator) and watch how they -don't- share the load equally. snip Maybe that's why Motorola designated their cheap CB amp transistors as MRF454 and MRF455 -- to appeal to the 'big engine' mentality. Yeah I am sure thats possible, but the nerd linger who designates the numbers I am sure sets behind a desk and has his car serviced by normal people. What's 'normal'? I would have a number like MRF-HP/454CI-Inc. hehehehehhehe Matched transistors would go by Balanced MRF-HP/454CI-Hipo Inc Or even PT2M454-Hipo Inc (Pettle to the Metal) OH YEAH! So if the amp has a cooling then it's got a 'blower'? Doesn't matter since it probably wouldn't pass the emissions inspection. And the bubble really bursts when you realize that it takes 3kW to equal the power of a lawnmower engine. So throttle up that moped, Jay -- you be ridin' with the big boys! |
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 12:37:19 -0800, Frank Gilliland
wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 08:56:43 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : Hello Frank: Hope you had a enjoyable Christmas. I did, thanks. Did you have fun decorating the Joshua Tree? Frank Gilliland wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:15:14 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : Hello Programo5: At 15 dollars each, and used sounds like there are not in premium shape. It may be possible to have them rewound for a higher current, for running a 4 or 8 pill amps. My 4 pill 2SC2789 amp will draw 75 to 80 amps with no problem. A 105 amp alternator may have a higher peak current capability than just 105 amps. I have never measured it but I would think it would have say a 10 to 20 percent higher peak intermittent rating. Anybody know about this or measured it? The current rating is for a specific RPM which is typically high. The current drops off to a bare minimum at idle which is why you sometimes see the idiot light come on while waiting at a stop light. Gee whiz Frank, I have never seen the idiot light come on while idling, with a alternator. I see you have never been a used car salesman. It happens more often with carbeurated vehicles, rarely with modern fuel injection systems. Why would it happen more often with a carburated vehicle? |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 19:51:08 GMT, Lancer wrote in
. com: snip Why would it happen more often with a carburated vehicle? Because of electronic idle speed control systems: a lot of carbs don't have them while most fuel injection systems do. Without those systems the idle can vary quite a bit depending on the temp of the engine and/or air, humidity, altitude, pressure, etc. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 21:21:43 GMT, Lancer wrote in
53j3t0torc3illhomnmagddsi4un5noth8@2355323778: On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 12:37:19 -0800, Frank Gilliland wrote: Depends on the amp. To be perfectly frank, if I used an amp I wouldn't even mess with anything that runs from 12-14 volts. If solid-state I would use 28 volt -minimum- for several reasons: power leads are smaller and have less loss; transistors are more linear; efficiency is higher because bias is a smaller percent of supply (CE bias can be as high as 3-4 volts under heavy load, dropping nearly a third of your supply voltage); voltage difference between battery and alternator is smaller; etc, etc. Ok Frank; Ok Lancer (whichever one you are); Please explain, (CE bias can be as high as 3-4 volts under heavy load. Isn't that set by the operating point set by bias you put on the base? A bipolar transistor requires both a BE bias -and- a CE bias. Ex: Class A, 6 volts for a 12 volt system. For a Class A amp the DC bias on the base is set so the output is centered in the linear portion of the curve (which is what I think you were trying to illustrate with your example). Or are you refering to the losses in the transistor when its fully turned on? Not necessarily. CE bias increases with collector current regardless of saturation (and RF bipolars don't saturate easily). But if the supply voltage can be increased while maintaining the same collector current (by changing the BE bias), the loss due to CE bias is not changed, and that loss is therefore made to be a smaller percentage of the output power. IOW, the transistor is more efficient with a higher supply voltage. |
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 16:19:02 -0800, Frank Gilliland
wrote in : snip .....But if the supply voltage can be increased while maintaining the same collector current (by changing the BE bias)..... Correction: that should be "by maintaining the same BE bias". I mistakenly assumed that the base bias would need to be adjusted after an increase in power supply voltage, disregarding the fact that some amps have regulated bias supplies. |
Hello Frank:
This maybe a little long winded but I learned something neat here. That's a good call having separate amp meters off each alternator. I am sure one alternator will want to source most of the current, but thats ok, as the second alternator will have to kick in when the load is applied. When the load goes nutz-oid wanting a Bazillion amps I am sure the output current will be close to equal, if the voltage regulators are set close to each other. While working as a marine technican/electrican for several years, in Los Angles I was called to a boat having alternator problems. I talked with the boat owner and came prepared with a new marine grade alternator and regulator. The boat had two engines and each engine had 2 alternators. As the electrical system needed a redundant back up everything as it did research and commercial work out at sea for long periods of time. Time is money and money is time stuff here. The owner said that when the Engine #1 auxiliary alternator was placed on line the running voltage did not increase as with the normal main alternator did. Same for #2 Engine. Well as the engines where running the main alternator was carrying the load and you could not see the auxiliary alternator come on line by just looking at the systems 24 volt system voltage. After pulling off the field wire from the main alternator, we verified the auxiliary alternator was really working putting out the needed current to run the boats 24 volt electrical system. The auxiliary alternators where placed on line by a lever that over centered and locked into place tightening the belt that turned the alternator pulley, pretty neat! Ok so everything was working as we verified the alternators, batteries, and had to replace a few battery connections. No big deal. The owner asked me to check out the electrical system #1 and #2 cross over operation. The boat or really a ship had to have two of everything, Two: HF Radios, VHF Radios, Lightening Systems, Engine Indicating Meters and Indicator Clusters, CB Radios, and of course all of the Nav Electronics like Radars, ADF, Loran, Depth Finder, Automatic Pilot, and bunches of other stuff. Ok so every thing ran off the 24 volt system #1 or #2. But they didn't know how the electrical system #1 and #2 crossed over or ran the other system when one of the engines was shut down, and wanted to know how to operate and test it out. I didn't know either as I couldn't find a cross over contactor relay any where. After looking over the ships wiring diagram, I saw the cross over contactor or relay, it had to be turned on (by a switch in the wheel house) to allow the two electrical systems to be tied together for high current operation. But the neat thing that I found was that the two electrical system where tied together thru a calculated resistance, in this case a short length of 8 gauge steel wire that would only allow so much current to flow between the two electrical systems. This allowed the system #1 to be up and running and be able to run a few things on system #2, and charge the system #2 batteries, and visa versa. This also allowed the main system running to not be pulled down by a short in the other system. The electrical control panel in the wheel house showed all the alternator voltages and currents. You where able to select which of the 3 battery sets to start the engines, pretty neat. They had a small 4 cyclender gas engine that ran again two alternators and a hydraulic pump for a auxiliary back up. And a gas powered Honda Generator mounted just aft of the wheel house to supply 12, 24VDC, and 115 VAC for a back up back up. Neat stuff. So a calculated resistance coupled connection between two alternators would allow the alternators to run separated systems and allow say a second alternator to back up the other system while not loading it down. Food for thought. Jay in the Mojave Frank Gilliland wrote: On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 04:11:38 -0800, Jay in the Mojave wrote in : snip Is this advice from experience? Actually, yes. Ok I have not heard of this noise but will keep an ear for it. Even better, install two ammeters (one on each alternator) and watch how they -don't- share the load equally. snip Maybe that's why Motorola designated their cheap CB amp transistors as MRF454 and MRF455 -- to appeal to the 'big engine' mentality. Yeah I am sure thats possible, but the nerd linger who designates the numbers I am sure sets behind a desk and has his car serviced by normal people. What's 'normal'? I would have a number like MRF-HP/454CI-Inc. hehehehehhehe Matched transistors would go by Balanced MRF-HP/454CI-Hipo Inc Or even PT2M454-Hipo Inc (Pettle to the Metal) OH YEAH! So if the amp has a cooling then it's got a 'blower'? Doesn't matter since it probably wouldn't pass the emissions inspection. And the bubble really bursts when you realize that it takes 3kW to equal the power of a lawnmower engine. So throttle up that moped, Jay -- you be ridin' with the big boys! |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:37:17 GMT, Lancer wrote in
htb5t058gbfee852kcbtht6vcul2jud5lu@2355323778: snip Ok Lancer (whichever one you are); The same Lancer that has been here all along.. In your headers I saw several different servers, two different newsreaders and two domain addresses (rock.com & ock.com). With all the forgeries in this group it's easy to see how one might think your posts are being made by more than one person. Please explain, (CE bias can be as high as 3-4 volts under heavy load. Isn't that set by the operating point set by bias you put on the base? A bipolar transistor requires both a BE bias -and- a CE bias. Ok, thats he part that I'm not understanding. (We are talking common emitter, right?) Transistors don't require a CE bias. In the case of an NPN just Pos voltage on the collector and Neg on the emitter. The CE voltage is set by the bias on the BE junction. Remember that a bipolar transistor is a -current- amplifier, not a voltage amplifier. Saturation is a characteristic of the collector's -current-; the CE bias is a characteristic of it's voltage. The two terms are often used synonymously and saturation curves are really CE bias curves, but that's because 'saturation' has two definitions: First, it is the point where a device will no longer respond to an increase at the input. This can happen for many reasons. But in this case it's because the output has hit the rail, and the rail is the CE bias (explained later). Second, it's the point where a transistor is driven so hard that it causes a forward bias of the BC junction (bad news). Now..... I'm not trying to dumb this down, but simplification might help to consolidate our differences: Consider a transistor configured as a DC constant-current source; i.e, base bias is fixed and therefore the collector current is constant. Let's say the collector current is fixed at 1 amp. That current is constant regardless of the collector voltage..... to a point: Let's also assume that the CE bias is 2 volts when collector current is 1 amp. If the collector voltage drops below 2 volts then the collector current will drop. Therefore, the voltage required to put the transistor into the constant-current part of the curve is the CE bias. Now let's configure the amplifier for Class B, use a 12 volt supply and feed it some AC. If the peak output current is 1 amp then the maximum possible voltage output of the amp will be 12 volts minus the CE bias of 2 volts, or 10 volts. If the CE bias increases to 4 volts at 10 amps (realistic value) then the peak voltage can be no larger than 8 volts, or 2/3 of the power supply voltage. Ok, now let's double the power supply voltage. Since the collector current doesn't change then the CE bias doesn't change. The output can now swing 20 volts, or 24 volts minus the CE bias. And this is 83.3% of the ps voltage. Since the current is the same regardless of ps voltage, the efficiency is 25% better with the -higher- ps voltage. snip Or are you refering to the losses in the transistor when its fully turned on? Not necessarily. CE bias increases with collector current regardless of saturation (and RF bipolars don't saturate easily). But if the supply voltage can be increased while maintaining the same collector current (by changing the BE bias), the loss due to CE bias is not changed, and that loss is therefore made to be a smaller percentage of the output power. IOW, the transistor is more efficient with a higher supply voltage. If you don't change the CE current, the actual loss in the transistor hasn't changed. If you increase the supply voltage it will be a smaller percentage than it was before. Exactly. A smaller percentage of the input power, and therefore more efficient. |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 06:50:36 -0800, Jay in the Mojave
wrote in : snip So a calculated resistance coupled connection between two alternators would allow the alternators to run separated systems and allow say a second alternator to back up the other system while not loading it down. Food for thought. Current equalizing resistors is another way to do it. It's common practice in SS audio amps to use emitter resistors to equalize the currents between parallel transistors. But I would hesitate using them with modern alternators because I don't know how it would screw with the regulators -- some have a local sense line and others have a remote sense line -- a resistor in the load might send the regulator into seizures. |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 07:01:45 -0800, Frank Gilliland
wrote: On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:37:17 GMT, Lancer wrote in htb5t058gbfee852kcbtht6vcul2jud5lu@2355323778 : snip Ok Lancer (whichever one you are); The same Lancer that has been here all along.. In your headers I saw several different servers, two different newsreaders and two domain addresses (rock.com & ock.com). With all the forgeries in this group it's easy to see how one might think your posts are being made by more than one person. Don't know where the ock.com came from, maybe I screwed up when I set a news client up. I do understand what your saying tho. Please explain, (CE bias can be as high as 3-4 volts under heavy load. Isn't that set by the operating point set by bias you put on the base? A bipolar transistor requires both a BE bias -and- a CE bias. Ok, thats he part that I'm not understanding. (We are talking common emitter, right?) Transistors don't require a CE bias. In the case of an NPN just Pos voltage on the collector and Neg on the emitter. The CE voltage is set by the bias on the BE junction. Remember that a bipolar transistor is a -current- amplifier, not a voltage amplifier. Saturation is a characteristic of the collector's -current-; the CE bias is a characteristic of it's voltage. The two terms are often used synonymously and saturation curves are really CE bias curves, but that's because 'saturation' has two definitions: First, it is the point where a device will no longer respond to an increase at the input. This can happen for many reasons. But in this case it's because the output has hit the rail, and the rail is the CE bias (explained later). Second, it's the point where a transistor is driven so hard that it causes a forward bias of the BC junction (bad news). Now..... I'm not trying to dumb this down, but simplification might help to consolidate our differences: Consider a transistor configured as a DC constant-current source; i.e, base bias is fixed and therefore the collector current is constant. Let's say the collector current is fixed at 1 amp. That current is constant regardless of the collector voltage..... to a point: Let's also assume that the CE bias is 2 volts when collector current is 1 amp. If the collector voltage drops below 2 volts then the collector current will drop. Therefore, the voltage required to put the transistor into the constant-current part of the curve is the CE bias. Now let's configure the amplifier for Class B, use a 12 volt supply and feed it some AC. If the peak output current is 1 amp then the maximum possible voltage output of the amp will be 12 volts minus the CE bias of 2 volts, or 10 volts. If the CE bias increases to 4 volts at 10 amps (realistic value) then the peak voltage can be no larger than 8 volts, or 2/3 of the power supply voltage. Ok, now let's double the power supply voltage. Since the collector current doesn't change then the CE bias doesn't change. The output can now swing 20 volts, or 24 volts minus the CE bias. And this is 83.3% of the ps voltage. Since the current is the same regardless of ps voltage, the efficiency is 25% better with the -higher- ps voltage. snip Or are you refering to the losses in the transistor when its fully turned on? Not necessarily. CE bias increases with collector current regardless of saturation (and RF bipolars don't saturate easily). But if the supply voltage can be increased while maintaining the same collector current (by changing the BE bias), the loss due to CE bias is not changed, and that loss is therefore made to be a smaller percentage of the output power. IOW, the transistor is more efficient with a higher supply voltage. If you don't change the CE current, the actual loss in the transistor hasn't changed. If you increase the supply voltage it will be a smaller percentage than it was before. Exactly. A smaller percentage of the input power, and therefore more efficient. Thanks Frank. |
Frank Gilliland wrote:
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:37:17 GMT, Lancer wrote in htb5t058gbfee852kcbtht6vcul2jud5lu@2355323778: snip Ok Lancer (whichever one you are); The same Lancer that has been here all along.. In your headers I saw several different servers, two different newsreaders and two domain addresses (rock.com & ock.com). With all the forgeries in this group it's easy to see how one might think your posts are being made by more than one person. Also, as far as you know, n8wwm doesn't even post here. |
Steveo wrote:
Frank Gilliland wrote: On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:37:17 GMT, Lancer wrote in htb5t058gbfee852kcbtht6vcul2jud5lu@2355323778: snip Ok Lancer (whichever one you are); The same Lancer that has been here all along.. In your headers I saw several different servers, two different newsreaders and two domain addresses (rock.com & ock.com). With all the forgeries in this group it's easy to see how one might think your posts are being made by more than one person. Also, as far as you know, n8wwm doesn't even post here. I forgot the smiley face. :-) |
Jay in the Mojave wrote:
The boat had two engines and each engine had 2 alternators. Must of had one of those big radios. Did he have an I 10-K on it too? |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:55:16 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in : Current equalizing resistors is another way to do it. It's common practice in SS audio amps to use emitter resistors to equalize the currents between parallel transistors. But I would hesitate using them with modern alternators because I don't know how it would screw with the regulators -- some have a local sense line and others have a remote sense line -- a resistor in the load might send the regulator into seizures. Frank it is very easy a single regulator will control the field voltage on both alternators. This way they would run the same and share the "Load" I thought about that, but wouldn't the rotors need to be locked in phase? |
itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote: -snip- Hey Geo, what do you think of Kevin Millwood? The Tribe may sign him to a one year deal. |
Hello Stevo:
Yeah there is a few Interceptor 10K Antennas out there as marine antennas. The fishermen call the CB the Mickey Mouse, but with a good antenna can make real long contact distances. So some of then have gotten ham license and talk on 10 meters as it is empty most of the time. I have gotten reports back on 50 to 60 miles over the water. These guys are up on 29 MHz simplex FM. Jay in the Mojave Steveo wrote: Jay in the Mojave wrote: The boat had two engines and each engine had 2 alternators. Must of had one of those big radios. Did he have an I 10-K on it too? |
That's a fairly odious boat antenna..could you run it without the ground
plane radials, and use the water for a counter-poise? That would sure lighten the friggin' wind load a bit. I was only ribbing ya a bit, Jay. I've been real happy with mine. (not on my boat) Jay in the Mojave wrote: Hello Stevo: Yeah there is a few Interceptor 10K Antennas out there as marine antennas. The fishermen call the CB the Mickey Mouse, but with a good antenna can make real long contact distances. So some of then have gotten ham license and talk on 10 meters as it is empty most of the time. I have gotten reports back on 50 to 60 miles over the water. These guys are up on 29 MHz simplex FM. Jay in the Mojave Steveo wrote: Jay in the Mojave wrote: The boat had two engines and each engine had 2 alternators. Must of had one of those big radios. Did he have an I 10-K on it too? |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 19:23:28 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in : On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:55:16 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in : Current equalizing resistors is another way to do it. It's common practice in SS audio amps to use emitter resistors to equalize the currents between parallel transistors. But I would hesitate using them with modern alternators because I don't know how it would screw with the regulators -- some have a local sense line and others have a remote sense line -- a resistor in the load might send the regulator into seizures. Frank it is very easy a single regulator will control the field voltage on both alternators. This way they would run the same and share the "Load" I thought about that, but wouldn't the rotors need to be locked in phase? Yes if they are on the same belt they will be in phase with each other. Belts slip. |
itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote: Steveo wrote in news:20041229202706.544$H7 @newsreader.com: itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote: -snip- Hey Geo, what do you think of Kevin Millwood? The Tribe may sign him to a one year deal. He didnt live up to expectations in Philly. That's kinda his mantra. His arm is under the microscope for this deal to happen..the Indians are really tight with their cash since Jacobs sold the team. I'd say he's worth a shot on a one year/7 mill deal. Reckon? |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 20:38:30 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote in : snip Belts slip. Belts slip?? why would the belts slip? you lost me, which isnt hard. If you want to synchronize generators (or alternators) you need a chain, gears, or a toothed belt. You can't use smooth belts because they slip. That's why your car has a timing chain to drive the camshaft, not a timing belt (unless you own a Pinto which had a toothed timing belt -- one of Ford's "better ideas"). |
itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote: Steveo wrote in : itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote: Steveo wrote in news:20041229202706.544$H7 @newsreader.com: itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote: -snip- Hey Geo, what do you think of Kevin Millwood? The Tribe may sign him to a one year deal. He didnt live up to expectations in Philly. That's kinda his mantra. His arm is under the microscope for this deal to happen..the Indians are really tight with their cash since Jacobs sold the team. I'd say he's worth a shot on a one year/7 mill deal. Reckon? Heck give me a million i will start 25-30 games. Last time I looked, they're not offering contracts to the over the hill gang..myself included. I could throw that left hand curve by you 25 years ago tho.. AL may be tougher for him, he may pitch well his first time thru teams since they wont be familair with his "stuff". I hope so. I'd be happy if he won 14 games. |
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 20:59:50 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge
wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in : If you want to synchronize generators (or alternators) you need a chain, gears, or a toothed belt. You can't use smooth belts because they slip. That's why your car has a timing chain to drive the camshaft, not a timing belt (unless you own a Pinto which had a toothed timing belt -- one of Ford's "better ideas"). Franks they won't slip if thes slip you need a belt tensioner, idler pulley, spring loaded tensioner or tighten them. Take a look at some of the keyclown sites they have 3,4,5,6,8+ alternators on their vehicles doubt they slip much. Put two pulleys of equal diameter on a belt, put timing marks on them to indicate their phase relative to each other, then run the belt for a few minutes. I can almost -guarantee- that the marks won't be in phase when the belt stops. If they are, run the belt for a few more minutes and they won't be in phase. That's because belts slip. |
itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote:
Heck give me a million i will start 25-30 games. Save your arm. If you stop fisting your mother she might ask you to move out of her basement. |
Frank Gilliland wrote:
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:55:16 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in m: Current equalizing resistors is another way to do it. It's common practice in SS audio amps to use emitter resistors to equalize the currents between parallel transistors. But I would hesitate using them with modern alternators because I don't know how it would screw with the regulators -- some have a local sense line and others have a remote sense line -- a resistor in the load might send the regulator into seizures. Frank it is very easy a single regulator will control the field voltage on both alternators. This way they would run the same and share the "Load" I thought about that, but wouldn't the rotors need to be locked in phase? Phase? The control voltage is DC, the output is DC, am I missing something? Wouldn't you just want the outputs to be at the same level? |
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:59:40 GMT, Lancer wrote in
: Frank Gilliland wrote: On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:55:16 -0600, itoldyouiamnotiamnotgeorge wrote in : Frank Gilliland wrote in : Current equalizing resistors is another way to do it. It's common practice in SS audio amps to use emitter resistors to equalize the currents between parallel transistors. But I would hesitate using them with modern alternators because I don't know how it would screw with the regulators -- some have a local sense line and others have a remote sense line -- a resistor in the load might send the regulator into seizures. Frank it is very easy a single regulator will control the field voltage on both alternators. This way they would run the same and share the "Load" I thought about that, but wouldn't the rotors need to be locked in phase? Phase? The control voltage is DC, the output is DC, am I missing something? The control (field) current is fluctuating DC, isn't it? Isn't that how the regulator smooths the output (which would be fluctuating DC if the field current was steady)? Wouldn't you just want the outputs to be at the same level? That's the plan. But regulators are like little kids with a new toy. When you put two or more regulators in parallel (without current equalizing resistors) it's almost impossible to make them share the load equally. |
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