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September 20th 06, 10:20 PM
posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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'Stripping' Enamel Wire.
wrote:
Roy Lewallen wrote: For a long time, I've used heat-strippable wire which I got surplus. It can be stripped just by heating at 750-800 degrees for a minute or so with a soldering iron. The trade name, I believe, is "Solder-eze", but a web search doesn't reveal a ready source. (I did find a number of people asking where it could be found, but no responses.) Hopefully a reader knows of a source and can tell us. A nice summary of various ways to strip heat-strippable wire is at http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/htm.../msg00598.html. While searching for information on heat-strippable wire, I came across the suggestion for stripping conventional enameled wire with paint stripper. Apparently it takes a few minutes, but does work. It's nasty stuff to work with, though. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Jim Flanagan wrote: Guys.. Does anyone have any better method for stripping small, enameled wire, other than using sandpaper or an exacto knife (scrapping)? There used to be a chemical stripper called 'Xvar', years ago. This stuff worked great. Nasty stuff as you can imagine and has been EPA'd years ago. Is there anything comparable, today? Also, a retired technician that I once knew had a pair of ingenious 'stripper pliers' that he had acquired back in the '60s that did a fabulous job. These pliers had special jaws that would scrape the enamel off without nicking the wire. They worked GREAT. Supposedly, this tool originated from a mfg in Germany. I have never seen this tool since. Anyone have a lead on something similar? Thanks and take care. -jim WB5KYE I mentioned a commercial paint-stripper in here, have tried another brand. Wayyyy slow. Having used commercial paint strippers in days before EPA had declared nearly everything "toxic, harmful to health" those paint stripper compounds were a lot stronger. It works, sort of, but one can use up a half roll of paper towels to make a dozen-plus toroid inductors' end-stripping. [okay, some exaggeration there] It is messy and usually takes a second application of goo to clean it off good enough for soldering. GONE is good old General Cement "Strip-X" (company says it has no plans for anything similar in future) and the "Solder-Eze" is relegated to "old stock." Since "magnet wire" is still used in industry, hobbyists need a hint or three from those working in that area now. Years ago, working with "Litz wire", I used Red Spirit and a small burner or a small blow torch. We dipped the wire in the spirit and then burned it. I'm not entirely sure if the Litz wires we used had secondary lacquer isolation but I think so and that was the major pain with that wire. A quick heating up and a swipe with a cloth should do it. Red Spirit was originally almost clean Ethanol ( While doing my military service in the Signal Corps ages ago, we used to nick it and mix it with coke or tonic water on Friday evenings... ) Cheers Dan / M0DFI |
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