Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:18:47 -0700 (PDT) Mike Silva
wrote: On May 26, 12:43*pm, "W3CQH" wrote: Does anybody have the name of the substance that was sold years ago for removing the enamel coating from wires, or maybe the name of something new? You would soak the wire in it and it would soften the coating and then you just wiped the goop off the wire. I've always burned off the insulation with a lighter, removed the remaining ash with a couple swipes of very fine sandpaper, and tinned. Never had a problem yet. That's what I've always done, too, but the last time I suggested it, all I heard were lots of complaints about how much easier it was to spend a lot of time breathing odd fumes. Yes, there certainly was a commercial product once sold for this purpose, but I suspect the only reason it was out there was because they knew they couldn't make much money selling "Wire Stripper Kits" that consisted of a book of matches. ;-) - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
The best product for stripping enamel wire is one which not many
hobbyists will have around the home: a solder pot. Foster Transformer in Cincinnati used this method for stripping enamel and tinning the ends of transformer leads simultaneously. All they did was do straighten out the leads and dip the wire ends into the pot for about five seconds. Dave K8MN |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
On Jun 1, 1:24�pm, Dave Heil wrote:
The best product for stripping enamel wire is one which not many hobbyists will have around the home: �a solder pot. Yup. I've used them. Of course someone might protest that the discussion is about doing the job *chemically*.... Foster Transformer in Cincinnati used this method for stripping enamel and tinning the ends of transformer leads simultaneously. �All they did was do straighten out the leads and dip the wire ends into the pot for about five seconds. Pretty much standard in the electronics industry, really. Faster and less costly than Strip-X for production work. At Southgate Radio, for multiple units, an improvised solder pot is made by heating a cleaned-out tuna can full of solder splashes over a propane torch or stove burner(with appropriate safety precautions). For small jobs, a blob of solder on the 100 watt American Beauty iron does the job. Elecraft transceiver kits (except the K3) require that you wind toroids and strip the wire ends. They recommend the solder-blob method, and since the wire is relatively small you don't need a big iron. My military-surplus Weller WCTPK kit does the job very well. 73 de Jim, N2EY |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
Dave Heil wrote:
wrote: On Jun 1, 1:24�pm, Dave Heil wrote: The best product for stripping enamel wire is one which not many hobbyists will have around the home: �a solder pot. Yup. I've used them. Of course someone might protest that the discussion is about doing the job *chemically*.... Chemically-schmemically. Do they want to remove enamel or discuss semantics? Never thought of it one way or the other. I suppose if I had to classify it as something, I'de callit chemical. But I don't get why that would be a complaint about th eprocess. I think I've already related the tale in r.r.a.p. that I had the President of Ideal Tool make a call on Foster with me. His plan was to sell one of the company's new abrasive stone type enamel removing machines. After the kindly chief engineer showed how Foster removed/tinned with the solder pot, the man from Ideal told me that he didn't believe there was much of a market for his machine. At Southgate Radio, for multiple units, an improvised solder pot is made by heating a cleaned-out tuna can full of solder splashes over a propane torch or stove burner(with appropriate safety precautions). For small jobs, a blob of solder on the 100 watt American Beauty iron does the job. Waste not, want not. I think I'd just wait until the XYL isn't home and heat the can on a burner of the gas stove. Doesn't it sound like something which could go terribly, terribly wrong? Yes it does. I did have the occasion to melt some lead for a counterbalance for a telescope I made. I took a cast iron saucepan and put the lead in it, and melted it over a Coleman stove outside the garage. I was a little concerned while I did it, but it all turned okay. I wonder if there is a specific metal the solder pots used. I don't know if critical applications would have an issue with contamination or not. Solder is a bit corrosive. - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
On Jun 2, 1:22Â*pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote: On Jun 1, 1:24�pm, Dave Heil wrote: Of course someone might protest that the discussion is about doing the job *chemically*.... Chemically-schmemically. Â*Do they want to remove enamel or discuss semantics? Some folks will argue just for the sake of arguing. And while they will talk a lot about their experience of decades past, they'll not say much about what they have actually done recently. Particularly in terms of actually building their own ham rigs or operating on the ham bands. All they did was do straighten out the leads and dip the wire ends into the pot for about five seconds. Pretty much standard in the electronics industry, really. Faster and less costly than Strip-X for production work. I had the President of Ideal Tool make a call on Foster with me. Â*His plan was to sell one of the company's new abrasive stone type enamel removing machines. Â*After the kindly chief engineer showed how Foster removed/tinned with the solder pot, the man from Ideal told me that he didn't believe there was much of a market for his machine. ooops! Hadn't heard that one before! At Southgate Radio, for multiple units, an improvised solder pot is made by heating a cleaned-out tuna can full of solder splashes over a propane torch or stove burner(with appropriate safety precautions). For small jobs, a blob of solder on the 100 watt American Beauty iron does the job. Waste not, want not. That's a key value at Southgate Radio. Also: Use it up, wear it out Make it do, or do without Â*I think I'd just wait until the XYL isn't home and heat the can on a burner of the gas stove. That's what I described. Â*Doesn't it sound like something which could go terribly, terribly wrong? Not with "appropriate safety precautions". Elecraft transceiver kits (except the K3) require that you wind toroids and strip the wire ends. They recommend the solder-blob method, and since the wire is relatively small you don't need a big iron. My military-surplus Weller WCTPK kit does the job very well. I've often used a razor blade or X-acto knife to get the job done. Me too, but it depends on whether a tinned wire is wanted. Now when it comes to terminating a 37 conductor #14 Kerite cable...but that's another story.... 73 de Jim, N2EY |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
REMOVING ENAMEL COATING
Dave Heil wrote:
The best product for stripping enamel wire is one which not many hobbyists will have around the home: a solder pot. I've used them. They work like a champ. I think we dipped them in flux for a second too. - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Removing PRO III Main tuning knob? | Equipment | |||
'Stripping' Enamel Wire. | Homebrew | |||
Toroids coating | Homebrew | |||
Need Help on Removing Viking 500 Front Panel | Boatanchors | |||
removing spanner nut | Scanner |