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Bruce W...1 wrote: This is not ham radio related but I know you guys have the answer. I need to store a car unattended for a winter in the midwest. And I want to put a tricke charge on the battery. I'd rather not buy a fancy trickle charger because it would probably get stolen. On the other hand I have a vast array of wall wart transformers. If I connected one of these transformers how many milliamps should it put out at 12V? Or rather what's the least current that would do the job? I would guess that 100 milliamperes would be more than sufficient to overcome any self-discharge of the battery, as long as the vehicle doesn't have any electronics onboard which are drawing current. It seems that lead acid batteries can dissipate too much current as heat. In other words I could probably feed it one amp continuously. You really don't want to do that. The reason is this: in order for a car battery to be drawing 1 amp of charge current on a continuous basis, you're going to have to boost the voltage up fairly high. You'd probably exceed the electrolysis voltage, and much of the current would end up breaking down the water in the electrolyte into oxygen and hydrogen. If your battery's design and chemistry don't allow the gasses to be recombined into water fast enough, you'd be at risk of "boiling" the battery dry. But would 100 mA at 12V do the job? I'd hate to lose a 1-Amp wall wart. Lead-acid batteries are happiest if you feed them a well-regulated charge/float voltage, with suitable current limiting. Using an unregulated or weakly-regulated 12-volt wall-wart is probably not a good idea - these wall warts tend to deliver a rather high voltage (often 16-18 volts) under conditions of little or no load. Depending on the specific wall-wart you choose, and the condition and type of your battery, you might end up electrolyzing away the water faster than the battery can recombine the hydrogen and oxygen. Losing a wall-wart would be annoying; losing the battery would be worse ;-) The best thing to do is get (or build) yourself some sort of well-regulated trickle charger. 100-200 mA is probably more than plenty for this application, as long as it's provided at a well-regulated voltage. Most battery companies seem to recommend between 13.6 and 13.8 volts for a "float charging" application - at this voltage, the battery will self-regulate the amount of current it takes and will not overcharge or electrolyze itself. One knowledgeable amateur I know, recommends sticking to a lower 13.5 volts to ensure safe float-charging under a wide range of charge conditions and temperatures. About a year ago I put together a simple float charger to keep the 65-amp-hour glassmat battery in our city's RACES ham-shack properly charged. It's a simple design, based on the jellybean LM317 three-terminal regulator IC and on the schematics in National Semiconductor's data sheet for this IC. My version includes reverse polarity and short-circuit protection, a charge float voltage which is adjustable over a span of a volt or so, and built-in current limiting to protect the wall wart (a 200 mA 16-volt unit, if I recall correctly). It's not a bad one-afternoon project and the components are the sort of thing most homebrewers are likely to have in their junk-box. Schematic is at http://www.radagast.org/~dplatt/hamradio/charger.pdf -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
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