xpyttl wrote:

[deleted]


Oh yes, if you discover you need to remove a part, the heat gun is the only
way to do that, short of buying some super expensive desoldering station.

I've just tried some sample ChipQuik alloy made for removing SM parts.
It's a low MP alloy (based on Wood's metal) that you melt and blob over
the leads with a soldering iron. It works quite well, so I've bought one
of the kits - about 15 GBP.

The Tac-n-Stik posting has some good suggestions. Here are a couple
of variations.

1. Rather than use tac-n-stik, I usually use this procedure to
initially position the part:

a. melt solder onto a corner pad (without the part)
b. keep the iron on the pad while...
c. using tweezers to guide the part into place.

Don't worry about getting a good looking joint yet. You just need
mechanical stability and can always touch up the soldering later. If
you're unhappy with the position, all you have to do is remelt the
solder on the corner pad and move the part with the tweezers. When
you like the position, solder the opposite corner to secure it.

2. The drench-and-wick trick works well, and I do use it for parts
with extremely fine pitch. However, if you have a strong magnifier or
microscope and a good quality iron with a fine tip, it is possible to
just solder each leg in the traditional way. In that case, I'll still
use the wick when I (inevitably) goof and bridge two or more pins.

David

The Tac-n-Stik posting has some good suggestions. Here are a couple
of variations.

1. Rather than use tac-n-stik, I usually use this procedure to
initially position the part:

a. melt solder onto a corner pad (without the part)
b. keep the iron on the pad while...
c. using tweezers to guide the part into place.

Don't worry about getting a good looking joint yet. You just need
mechanical stability and can always touch up the soldering later. If
you're unhappy with the position, all you have to do is remelt the
solder on the corner pad and move the part with the tweezers. When
you like the position, solder the opposite corner to secure it.

2. The drench-and-wick trick works well, and I do use it for parts
with extremely fine pitch. However, if you have a strong magnifier or
microscope and a good quality iron with a fine tip, it is possible to
just solder each leg in the traditional way. In that case, I'll still
use the wick when I (inevitably) goof and bridge two or more pins.

David

In article zpgqb.86794$9E1.437033@attbi_s52, says...
I can't avoid it anymore! I have an IC in SSOP package that I want to use.
Does anyone have tips on how to do it or maybe this is on a FAQ someplace.

thanks, Tom




SSOPs aren't too hard. Assuming your soldering iron has a high-quality
tip, solder-wick and a good pair of tweezers are all you'll need.

TSSOPs are a bit trickier, but still not impossible.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

In article zpgqb.86794$9E1.437033@attbi_s52, says...
I can't avoid it anymore! I have an IC in SSOP package that I want to use.
Does anyone have tips on how to do it or maybe this is on a FAQ someplace.

thanks, Tom




SSOPs aren't too hard. Assuming your soldering iron has a high-quality
tip, solder-wick and a good pair of tweezers are all you'll need.

TSSOPs are a bit trickier, but still not impossible.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

I have adapted to the "toaster oven" method -- and now I am smt'ng all the
time:
my technique is to use an instrument looking like a pick to place a very
small dab of solder paste on each of the pads, then place the device using
tweezers. it takes about 4 minutes in the toaster oven -- some film
capacitors, electrolytics can only be soldered ONCE. my technique is to do
all the resistors and ceramic caps first on one run, then do the
electrolytics and IC's second, the discrete and non-SMT devices are then
soldered in by hand.

the method was discussed in Nuts n Volts a few issues ago -- using stainless
steel stencils -- I find that I can do it by hand.

"Tom Kreyche" wrote in message
news:zpgqb.86794$9E1.437033@attbi_s52...
I can't avoid it anymore! I have an IC in SSOP package that I want to use.
Does anyone have tips on how to do it or maybe this is on a FAQ someplace.

thanks, Tom

I have adapted to the "toaster oven" method -- and now I am smt'ng all the
time:
my technique is to use an instrument looking like a pick to place a very
small dab of solder paste on each of the pads, then place the device using
tweezers. it takes about 4 minutes in the toaster oven -- some film
capacitors, electrolytics can only be soldered ONCE. my technique is to do
all the resistors and ceramic caps first on one run, then do the
electrolytics and IC's second, the discrete and non-SMT devices are then
soldered in by hand.

the method was discussed in Nuts n Volts a few issues ago -- using stainless
steel stencils -- I find that I can do it by hand.

"Tom Kreyche" wrote in message
news:zpgqb.86794$9E1.437033@attbi_s52...
I can't avoid it anymore! I have an IC in SSOP package that I want to use.
Does anyone have tips on how to do it or maybe this is on a FAQ someplace.

thanks, Tom