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#1
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Hi all,
I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. Any ideas as to what is causing this, and will it be cheap to fix? Are there any checks I can do to diagnose the problem? Or should I just dump the thing and buy a new one? I bought the station over 11 years ago, in practically new condition, at a yard sale for $5, so I got my money out of it, but if a reliable fix is cheaper than purchasing a new soldering setup I'd rather go that route. Thanks! -Josh, AE6IQ -- Remove the reversed "nospam" in the address. |
#2
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Weller sells, through distributors, replacement parts. I suggest that
you replace the temp-sensing tip element, as a start. Kal On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:32:49 -0800, Joshua G Senecal wrote: Hi all, I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. Any ideas as to what is causing this, and will it be cheap to fix? Are there any checks I can do to diagnose the problem? Or should I just dump the thing and buy a new one? I bought the station over 11 years ago, in practically new condition, at a yard sale for $5, so I got my money out of it, but if a reliable fix is cheaper than purchasing a new soldering setup I'd rather go that route. Thanks! -Josh, AE6IQ |
#3
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On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 11:42:58 -0500 Kalman Rubinson
wrote: Weller sells, through distributors, replacement parts. I suggest that you replace the temp-sensing tip element, as a start. The only heat sensing element in the WTCP? series is the lump of metal at the tail end of the tip. The correct tips for this iron will have a separate bit there with a single digit stamped in it. That's normally a 7, for 700 degrees F. The alloy of this lump is chosen to have a Curie temp of 700F and it will never change. There is a magnet that runs down toward the tip and is attracted to the tip when the tip is below its Curie point. Once the temp reaches the Curie temp the lump no longer attracts the magnet and the magnet is pulled back upwards by a small spring. This opens a switch in the handle and turns off the heating element. The usual problems with these are that something gets inside the sleeve behind the tip and jams the magnet so it can no longer move, or the switch contacts weld closed. With the iron off and cold you can remove the tip retaining sleeve. When you pull the tip out you should feel the pull of the magnet and then feel the switch and magnet snap back into the barrel once the tip is too far away to attract the magnet. You should repeat this to verify that the magnet is free to move. If you unplug the iron from the base and put an Ohmmeter on the pins of the iron, you should see the continuity come and go as you take the pin in and out. Weller is owned by Cooper Tools and PDF files of replacement parts are available on their web site. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#4
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On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 11:42:58 -0500 Kalman Rubinson
wrote: Weller sells, through distributors, replacement parts. I suggest that you replace the temp-sensing tip element, as a start. The only heat sensing element in the WTCP? series is the lump of metal at the tail end of the tip. The correct tips for this iron will have a separate bit there with a single digit stamped in it. That's normally a 7, for 700 degrees F. The alloy of this lump is chosen to have a Curie temp of 700F and it will never change. There is a magnet that runs down toward the tip and is attracted to the tip when the tip is below its Curie point. Once the temp reaches the Curie temp the lump no longer attracts the magnet and the magnet is pulled back upwards by a small spring. This opens a switch in the handle and turns off the heating element. The usual problems with these are that something gets inside the sleeve behind the tip and jams the magnet so it can no longer move, or the switch contacts weld closed. With the iron off and cold you can remove the tip retaining sleeve. When you pull the tip out you should feel the pull of the magnet and then feel the switch and magnet snap back into the barrel once the tip is too far away to attract the magnet. You should repeat this to verify that the magnet is free to move. If you unplug the iron from the base and put an Ohmmeter on the pins of the iron, you should see the continuity come and go as you take the pin in and out. Weller is owned by Cooper Tools and PDF files of replacement parts are available on their web site. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
#5
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Joshua G Senecal wrote:
Hi all, I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. Any ideas as to what is causing this, and will it be cheap to fix? Are there any checks I can do to diagnose the problem? Or should I just dump the thing and buy a new one? I bought the station over 11 years ago, in practically new condition, at a yard sale for $5, so I got my money out of it, but if a reliable fix is cheaper than purchasing a new soldering setup I'd rather go that route. Thanks! -Josh, AE6IQ -- Remove the reversed "nospam" in the address. A bad thermostat is a likely cause. -- 7 days! Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
#6
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On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:08:22 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Joshua G Senecal wrote: Hi all, I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. A bad thermostat is a likely cause. Agreed, had it happen myself. Not sure about the specific model but ISTR the thermostat is in, and indivisible from, the element. The "bit" has a lump of Iron with certain temperature chararistics ( peltier effect ? ). When the temperature exceeds the Iron magnetic ability the element switch, ( with a magnet on the actuating arm ), drops out until the Iron, ( this is the Iron on the bit ), regains its magnetic ability. KISS in its best form. I have managed to "unstick" the magnet before now, but its a bugger to do. Sorry I can't describe the operation in a more scientific language, but I'm sure someone will ba able to... ;-) hth Mike W, G8NXD |
#7
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On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:08:22 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Joshua G Senecal wrote: Hi all, I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. A bad thermostat is a likely cause. Agreed, had it happen myself. Not sure about the specific model but ISTR the thermostat is in, and indivisible from, the element. The "bit" has a lump of Iron with certain temperature chararistics ( peltier effect ? ). When the temperature exceeds the Iron magnetic ability the element switch, ( with a magnet on the actuating arm ), drops out until the Iron, ( this is the Iron on the bit ), regains its magnetic ability. KISS in its best form. I have managed to "unstick" the magnet before now, but its a bugger to do. Sorry I can't describe the operation in a more scientific language, but I'm sure someone will ba able to... ;-) hth Mike W, G8NXD |
#8
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Hi all,
I have a Weller WTCPS soldering station with a 201U power supply and 201P iron, using a 700 degree F tip. Last night I powered it up in preparation for soldering some connectors, and a few minutes later I saw that the tip and metal shaft of the iron were glowing red-hot. Any ideas as to what is causing this, and will it be cheap to fix? I would guess that the fault lies in the iron, not in the station base. If I recall correctly, the station base is simply a stepdown transformer. It plays no part at all in the temperature regulation. The temperature is regulated via a rather elegant (I think) implementation in the iron. At the base of each tip, there's a slug of a ferromagnetic material. The properties of this slug are controlled during manufacture, so that it will change from a magnetic to a nonmagnetic state at a specific temperature (e.g. 700 F). Inside the shaft of the iron there is a switch with a magnet on the end. When the tip is below its transition temperature, the magnet is attracted to the ferromagnetic slug on the back of the tip, the switch is pulled forwards, the contacts close, and current flows through the iron's heating coils. When the tip reaches its desired temperature the ferromagnetic slug becomes non-magnetic, the magnet in the shaft "loses its grip", the switch is pulled backwards by a spring, the contacts open, and the current to the heating coil is interrupted. You can hear (and feel) a gentle "thick" when the magnet switch pops back and forth. It's a nice negative-feedback system. It allows the use of a rather high-amperage heating coil and transformer (which can heat up the tip quickly when powered on, and restore heat taken out of the tip by the soldering process), and yet allows any of several temperature ranges to be selected by changing the tip. It seems to be quite robust... I've heard very few reports of failure. It seems that you have a failure. I would guess that the switch has failed... either it's become jammed, or the spring has broken due to metal fatigue. [It's possible that the ferromagnetic slug has somehow magically changed its properties and now has a transition temperature several hundred degrees higher, but that seems _very_ unlikely to me!] In any case, the heating coils are running full-time - you've got no temperature regulation - because the switch isn't opening. Are there any checks I can do to diagnose the problem? Or should I just dump the thing and buy a new one? You can probably replace the switch (or, worst case, the whole iron-and-handle assembly) for rather less than the cost of a new station. The transformer and line cord, and whatever tips you may have purchased, are almost certainly OK. It might be worth disassembling the iron, and seeing if a sharp "rap" on the side of the iron shaft will dislodge the switch. If not, you could check with Weller to find out about getting a replacement switch. The current incarnation of this product is the WTCPT, using a TC201T iron. Mouser sells the complete TC201T iron for around $72 (roughly half their cost for the whole station). The SW60 switch for this iron sells for around $26 - you'd probably need to check with Weller to confirm that this switch is the same one used in (or is compatible with) your older 201P iron. $26 to restore this station to full life would be a very worthwhile investment. I spent about $100 for a WTCPT iron close to 15 years ago and have never regretted it. I used to go through cheap $15-$25 irons every couple of years, through cheap tips a lot faster than that, and I'd burn up components (or have difficulty getting a clean joint) and cuss a lot. The WTCPT hasn't hiccoughed even once, and I have yet to have to replace the original tip which came with it. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#9
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![]() The temperature is regulated via a rather elegant (I think) implementation in the iron. At the base of each tip, there's a slug of a ferromagnetic material. The properties of this slug are controlled during manufacture, so that it will change from a magnetic to a nonmagnetic state at a specific temperature (e.g. 700 F). Inside the shaft of the iron there is a switch with a magnet on the end. When the tip is below its transition temperature, the magnet is attracted to the ferromagnetic slug on the back of the tip, the switch is pulled forwards, the contacts close, and current flows through the iron's heating coils. When the tip reaches its desired temperature the ferromagnetic slug becomes non-magnetic, the magnet in the shaft "loses its grip", the switch is pulled backwards by a spring, the contacts open, and the current to the heating coil is interrupted. You can hear (and feel) a gentle "thick" when the magnet switch pops back and forth. I've heard this sort of Iron referred to as a "Curie Point" Iron. Is this the same thing? Bob Stephens |
#10
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![]() In article , Bob Stephens wrote: I've heard this sort of Iron referred to as a "Curie Point" Iron. Is this the same thing? Probably so. A material's Curie point (or temperature) is the temperature at which, when heated, the material ceases to be able to support/retain a magnetic field, and any existing magnetic field is randomized. Heating a permanent magnet above its Curie temperature demagnetizes it. The slugs used in the Weller tips have Curie temperatures of 600, 700, or 800 degrees F (plus or minus a bit, I imagine). -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
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