Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"

In this case the "assembler" needed flogging!

hank wd5jfr
"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...


Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"

This was a very interesting post Henry, I have one of these and it seems to
be working OK. I have everything except the cal cell is dead. I would like
to see a pic of those jam nuts that you shouldn't touch if possible as I
thought about cleaning the card reader.
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
In this case the "assembler" needed flogging!

hank wd5jfr
"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...


Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"

Hi,
The calibration cell simply verifies that the meter is 100
microamps and a total of 250 ohms. And it contains the limit resistors
for the leakage test. I wouldn't worry about it.

Incidentally I wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on the
card-reader pins. While the original organic grease has stiffened with
time and needed to be replaced, it was probably carefully selected to
do its job. On the Cardmatics I've repaired, I've used a grease
originally supplied to General Radio by Oak, but I have no idea where
to get more of it. It was described to me by the GR engineer who gave
me some, as "Beacon M325" grease.

73, Alan

For noisy TV tuners back in the 1960s when I was working in a Radio and TV
shop we used Lubriplate white grease that came in a small black and grey
tube that resembled travel toothpaste.We sprayed the wafer switch in the
tuner, rotated several times and then applied a light coating of Lubrplate
with a small stick and rotated several more times. On turret tuners we
cleaned the pads and wipers with contact cleaner on a Qtip and then applied
Lubriplate. This was in Norman, Okla where the humidity played havoc with
tuners making them intermittent and after the treatment we never had call
backs. Somewhere I have a partial tube of this stuff but haven't located it
as yet, so I used DeOxit on the Hickok switch matirix but would have used
Lubriplate if I found it. After about more than 20 moves there's lots of
possiblities where it is. Two local auto parts stores didn't have anything
but silicone grease which I haven't used except as a heat transfer aid on
power transistor heart sinks. I think that Lubriplate would be a good
lubricant/protector unless there's something better that I don't know about.
I'm guessing that there's something better after 40 yeats and would be
interested in what users have used
Now to repair number 2!
73
hank wd5jfr

"Alan Douglas" adouglasatgis.net wrote in message
news
Hi,
The calibration cell simply verifies that the meter is 100
microamps and a total of 250 ohms. And it contains the limit resistors
for the leakage test. I wouldn't worry about it.

Incidentally I wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on the
card-reader pins. While the original organic grease has stiffened with
time and needed to be replaced, it was probably carefully selected to
do its job. On the Cardmatics I've repaired, I've used a grease
originally supplied to General Radio by Oak, but I have no idea where
to get more of it. It was described to me by the GR engineer who gave
me some, as "Beacon M325" grease.

73, Alan

For noisy TV tuners back in the 1960s when I was working in a Radio and TV
shop we used Lubriplate white grease that came in a small black and grey
tube that resembled travel toothpaste.We sprayed the wafer switch in the
tuner, rotated several times and then applied a light coating of Lubrplate
with a small stick and rotated several more times. On turret tuners we
cleaned the pads and wipers with contact cleaner on a Qtip and then applied
Lubriplate. This was in Norman, Okla where the humidity played havoc with
tuners making them intermittent and after the treatment we never had call
backs. Somewhere I have a partial tube of this stuff but haven't located it
as yet, so I used DeOxit on the Hickok switch matirix but would have used
Lubriplate if I found it. After about more than 20 moves there's lots of
possiblities where it is. Two local auto parts stores didn't have anything
but silicone grease which I haven't used except as a heat transfer aid on
power transistor heart sinks. I think that Lubriplate would be a good
lubricant/protector unless there's something better that I don't know about.
I'm guessing that there's something better after 40 yeats and would be
interested in what users have used
Now to repair number 2!
73
hank wd5jfr

"Alan Douglas" adouglasatgis.net wrote in message
news
Hi,
The calibration cell simply verifies that the meter is 100
microamps and a total of 250 ohms. And it contains the limit resistors
for the leakage test. I wouldn't worry about it.

Incidentally I wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on the
card-reader pins. While the original organic grease has stiffened with
time and needed to be replaced, it was probably carefully selected to
do its job. On the Cardmatics I've repaired, I've used a grease
originally supplied to General Radio by Oak, but I have no idea where
to get more of it. It was described to me by the GR engineer who gave
me some, as "Beacon M325" grease.

73, Alan

Hi,
The calibration cell simply verifies that the meter is 100
microamps and a total of 250 ohms. And it contains the limit resistors
for the leakage test. I wouldn't worry about it.

Incidentally I wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on the
card-reader pins. While the original organic grease has stiffened with
time and needed to be replaced, it was probably carefully selected to
do its job. On the Cardmatics I've repaired, I've used a grease
originally supplied to General Radio by Oak, but I have no idea where
to get more of it. It was described to me by the GR engineer who gave
me some, as "Beacon M325" grease.

73, Alan

Lou
Under the black cover over the matrix swtich there are 3 black bakelite
slabs (3.5" X 4.5" X ~1/4") with 187 holes sandwiching 185 pins. With the
black cover removed (2 screws) and the card plunger pushed in and you'll
see that the sandwich "floats" on four 8-32 threaded posts. Each of these
posts has 2 nuts sandwiching the slab sandwich. The position of the lower
4 nuts (I called these jam nuts) determines how far in the 185 pins go into
their female counterpart where there is no hole in the card. If there's a
hole in the card the pins must not make contact with their female
counterpart, and this clearance is about the thickness of a dime. In
addtion all these jam nuts must be on the same plane so that the sandwich
is orthagonal and will not bind so it can move smoothly.
A pix would have been easier but the batteries are being charged. Let me
know if you still need a pix.
73
hank wd5jfr

"Lou deGonzague" wrote in message
...
This was a very interesting post Henry, I have one of these and it seems
to
be working OK. I have everything except the cal cell is dead. I would like
to see a pic of those jam nuts that you shouldn't touch if possible as I
thought about cleaning the card reader.
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
In this case the "assembler" needed flogging!

hank wd5jfr
"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...


Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"

Thanks Henry, I see what you are saying. The pins come up to about an 1/8'
from the top of the plate. One thing I just noticed, there is no pin in the
17A position, bottom left corner spot. I wonder if mine is missing or it
was made that way?
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
Lou
Under the black cover over the matrix swtich there are 3 black bakelite
slabs (3.5" X 4.5" X ~1/4") with 187 holes sandwiching 185 pins. With the
black cover removed (2 screws) and the card plunger pushed in and you'll
see that the sandwich "floats" on four 8-32 threaded posts. Each of these
posts has 2 nuts sandwiching the slab sandwich. The position of the
lower
4 nuts (I called these jam nuts) determines how far in the 185 pins go
into
their female counterpart where there is no hole in the card. If there's a
hole in the card the pins must not make contact with their female
counterpart, and this clearance is about the thickness of a dime. In
addtion all these jam nuts must be on the same plane so that the sandwich
is orthagonal and will not bind so it can move smoothly.
A pix would have been easier but the batteries are being charged. Let me
know if you still need a pix.
73
hank wd5jfr

"Lou deGonzague" wrote in message
...
This was a very interesting post Henry, I have one of these and it seems
to
be working OK. I have everything except the cal cell is dead. I would
like
to see a pic of those jam nuts that you shouldn't touch if possible as I
thought about cleaning the card reader.
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
In this case the "assembler" needed flogging!

hank wd5jfr
"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...


Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"

There's 187 holes with 185 contact pins. A17 has a threaded guide post that
sets the gap (about a dime) between the two female connectors that the pins
connect when there's no hole in the card. H17 doesn't have a pin nor does
it have the lower female solder connection, I guess they didn't need it.
Perhaps when someone has or will find a need for the 186th pin we'll have to
find an extra pin and a lower female contact and a place to route and
terminate the wires.
73
hank wd5jfr

"Lou deGonzague" wrote in message
...
Thanks Henry, I see what you are saying. The pins come up to about an 1/8'
from the top of the plate. One thing I just noticed, there is no pin in
the
17A position, bottom left corner spot. I wonder if mine is missing or it
was made that way?
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
Lou
Under the black cover over the matrix swtich there are 3 black bakelite
slabs (3.5" X 4.5" X ~1/4") with 187 holes sandwiching 185 pins. With
the
black cover removed (2 screws) and the card plunger pushed in and
you'll
see that the sandwich "floats" on four 8-32 threaded posts. Each of
these
posts has 2 nuts sandwiching the slab sandwich. The position of the
lower
4 nuts (I called these jam nuts) determines how far in the 185 pins go
into
their female counterpart where there is no hole in the card. If there's
a
hole in the card the pins must not make contact with their female
counterpart, and this clearance is about the thickness of a dime. In
addtion all these jam nuts must be on the same plane so that the
sandwich
is orthagonal and will not bind so it can move smoothly.
A pix would have been easier but the batteries are being charged. Let
me
know if you still need a pix.
73
hank wd5jfr

"Lou deGonzague" wrote in message
...
This was a very interesting post Henry, I have one of these and it
seems
to
be working OK. I have everything except the cal cell is dead. I would
like
to see a pic of those jam nuts that you shouldn't touch if possible as
I
thought about cleaning the card reader.
"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message
...
In this case the "assembler" needed flogging!

hank wd5jfr
"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...


Henry Kolesnik wrote:

It's fixed, a new day respite helps.

Which just undescores what I've been telling my techs all
along. VERIFY everything before you start flogging the
assembly.

Jeff

--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom"