In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote:

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------

The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out:
http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp

Kapton had been used for this also.

But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be
varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is
really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But
this is the luck of the draw.

I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360
degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for
defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very
high reliability equipment.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

http://www.mwswire.com/inschar.htm

http://www.mwswire.com/inschar.htm

Fred McKenzie wrote:
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire

Jan-Martin-

To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other
kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled
copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as
cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used.

I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts.
Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead
of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to
providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter
choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good
source of enameled copper wire.

73, Fred, K4DII

Also old tv focus coils and deflection yokes.
I've also torn up old transformers to rewind them
and saved the wire.
I've made a few filter chokes out of old filament transformers.
I pull out the E I core pieces, unwind the secondary, and add more
wire to the primary. Then I reassemble the core, with all the E pieces
going the same way (single air gap since a choke see mostly DC).
Radio Shack filament transformers are wound on a plastic bobbin which
makes the job easier. I've gotten about 7-8 henrys out of these,
good filter chokes for tube equipment.

Fred McKenzie wrote:
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire

Jan-Martin-

To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other
kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled
copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as
cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used.

I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts.
Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead
of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to
providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter
choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good
source of enameled copper wire.

73, Fred, K4DII

Also old tv focus coils and deflection yokes.
I've also torn up old transformers to rewind them
and saved the wire.
I've made a few filter chokes out of old filament transformers.
I pull out the E I core pieces, unwind the secondary, and add more
wire to the primary. Then I reassemble the core, with all the E pieces
going the same way (single air gap since a choke see mostly DC).
Radio Shack filament transformers are wound on a plastic bobbin which
makes the job easier. I've gotten about 7-8 henrys out of these,
good filter chokes for tube equipment.

Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:


Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.


Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works.
But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy
enamelled wire some place

Bill, N5NOB

Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:


Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.


Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works.
But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy
enamelled wire some place

Bill, N5NOB

"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message
...
Bob gave a very good explanation. ..."enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are
often
used interchangeably.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Bob wrote:

There is/was also a type called something like "solder-ease". The
spelling may be different and it may be a trade name. It was easily removed
with the heat of a soldering iron. You just tried to solder it as usual and
the insulating coating melted away after a few seconds.

Search on that name...see it U get any hits.

I didn't get any hits on:
Soldereze soldereaze solderease solderese
--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.

"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message
...
Bob gave a very good explanation. ..."enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are
often
used interchangeably.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Bob wrote:

There is/was also a type called something like "solder-ease". The
spelling may be different and it may be a trade name. It was easily removed
with the heat of a soldering iron. You just tried to solder it as usual and
the insulating coating melted away after a few seconds.

Search on that name...see it U get any hits.

I didn't get any hits on:
Soldereze soldereaze solderease solderese
--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.