Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very
thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space.

Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel
is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding
space.

In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double
cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is
used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a
soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient.

They are all magnet wire.

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Bob wrote:

Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very
thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space.

Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel
is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding
space.

In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double
cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is
used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a
soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient.

They are all magnet wire.

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote:

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------

The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out:
http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp

Kapton had been used for this also.

But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be
varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is
really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But
this is the luck of the draw.

I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360
degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for
defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very
high reliability equipment.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

http://www.mwswire.com/inschar.htm

http://www.mwswire.com/inschar.htm

Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:


Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.


Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works.
But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy
enamelled wire some place

Bill, N5NOB

In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote:

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------

The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out:
http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp

Kapton had been used for this also.

But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be
varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is
really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But
this is the luck of the draw.

I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360
degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for
defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very
high reliability equipment.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:


Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.


Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works.
But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy
enamelled wire some place

Bill, N5NOB

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom