Fred, my reaction when I first read the instructions was, hell, I get a
wrinkly finish every time I paint somehing, I just never dared calling it a
wrinkle finish, I called it another desaster...

I checked the hardness of the coating after it had dried hanging over my
wood stove, which isn't running full tilt anymore, and there was still some
softness so I threw it in the oven, brought it to about 200F and then shut
it off, leavig the painted item inside.

That was yesterday and when I tested that piece right now it had markedly
improved the hardness of the paint, actually I would say it is an excellent
coating.


So success I guess, and I am already looking around the cabin to see what I
could wrinkle up next.

73 from Maine

Uwe

Uwe-

It sounds like you're on the right track now.

I played with wrinkle finish paint as a teenager, fixing up several old
pot-metal microphone cases. There are probably more options today than there
were then. It may have been Krylon that I used, but I don't recall.

One thing I remember, is that you can get non-wrinkle paints to wrinkle by
applying a second coat before the first has dried completely. That is
essentially what your instructions do, except your automotive paint should be
optimized for wrinkling.

Three coats may produce a gorgeous wrinkle finish, but I wonder if it might be
delicate to handle. You might run tests to see if two coats will wrinkle
sufficiently and not be as easily damaged by rough handling.

Another thing to try while you are experimenting, is to wrinkle-paint a sample
item and then bake it. You don't want to scorch the paint, just let it cook
for 30 minutes or an hour at 200 or 250 degrees F, and let it cool. See if
that toughens the wrinkled surface so it will withstand some abuse. (If
someone knows about baked-on paint, they may give you better advice on time
and
temperature.)

73, Fred, K4DII