Hi, I'm looking for a multimeter that will be
used 24/7 on DC and mA readings. Are there,
in your opinion/experience, any difference in
long-term durability between the Fluke 87
(series 80) and the Fluke 81438 multimeters?

I've had one of the Harbor Freight multimeters on a monitoring point 24/7
for six months and (except to change batteries) not a whimper. My students
have bought somewhere on the order of 100-150 of them and as yet, not a
casualty.

They are on sale for $2.99 right now.

Jim


"fancy nospam tunes" wrote in message
m...
Hi, I'm looking for a multimeter that will be
used 24/7 on DC and mA readings. Are there,
in your opinion/experience, any difference in
long-term durability between the Fluke 87
(series 80) and the Fluke 81438 multimeters?

Hi, I'm looking for a multimeter that will be
used 24/7 on DC and mA readings. Are there,
in your opinion/experience, any difference in
long-term durability between the Fluke 87
(series 80) and the Fluke 81438 multimeters?
====================
Depending on the number of digits your readout needs to have , DVMs are
nowadays very cheap .
Here in the UK a well known electronic components/gadgets chain store sells
3 digits multi-function DVMs (LCD display) for GBP 5.00 or US$ 7.00. Some
time ago they sold these DVM as a promotion for GBP 3.00 or US$ 4.20
,complete with 9V battery + leads and a soft plastic pouch. It is
Mastech's model M-830B sold by Maplin
At that price 'long term durability' is no matter of concern.
BTW when comparing the reading of these low cost DVMs with a similar
'professional instrument ' the difference is at the most 2 of the least
significant digit.
As a radioamateur (hobbyist) I feel these DVMs are fit for my purpose.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

I'm looking for a multimeter that will be
used 24/7 on DC and mA readings. Are there,
in your opinion/experience, any difference in
long-term durability between the Fluke 87
(series 80) and the Fluke 81438 multimeters?

Tunes-

I'm not familiar with the 81438. The 87 may be similar to a 77 I used at work.

The 77 function switch has a vulnerability in that the knob and shaft that
activate it are attached to the front, and the switch and PCB are attached to
the back when opened to change the battery. The rotary part of the switch is
floating and moved out of position when the battery was changed. Damage to
contacts occurred when the meter was re-assembled.

You may prefer to call this "operator error", but I've never had any such
problem with my 8020A which has a separate battery compartment and push-button
switches. (Of course it is not auto-ranging!)

Given a choice, I prefer push buttons to a rotary switch, especially if
settings are to be frequently changed.

73, Fred, K4DII

"Highland Ham" wrote in message
...
Hi, I'm looking for a multimeter that will be
used 24/7 on DC and mA readings. Are there,
in your opinion/experience, any difference in
long-term durability between the Fluke 87
(series 80) and the Fluke 81438 multimeters?
====================
Depending on the number of digits your readout needs to have , DVMs are
nowadays very cheap .
Here in the UK a well known electronic components/gadgets chain store
sells
3 digits multi-function DVMs (LCD display) for GBP 5.00 or US$ 7.00.
Some
time ago they sold these DVM as a promotion for GBP 3.00 or US$ 4.20
,complete with 9V battery + leads and a soft plastic pouch. It is
Mastech's model M-830B sold by Maplin
At that price 'long term durability' is no matter of concern.
BTW when comparing the reading of these low cost DVMs with a similar
'professional instrument ' the difference is at the most 2 of the least
significant digit.
As a radioamateur (hobbyist) I feel these DVMs are fit for my purpose.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH


It will greatly depend on what your purpose it. I use the Fluke meters at
work. I may measuer a 20 milliamp circuit and afew minuits later measuer a
480 volt circuit that is fused for about 600 amps. The Fluke people came in
and did a demonstration on their meters. One thing that impressed me was
some films they showed. Just by subituting the wrong fuse in their meter
and haveing it set for ohms or amps instead of voltage and hooking it to the
3 phase circuit created one big arc and flash. The cheeper meters did the
same thing. Just imagin an arc welder running 480 volts and number 20 wire
shorting the thing out. Then you are holding a lead in each hand. The
insylation melts off the leads and you become part of the circuit.

The cheep meters are ok for some home usage but if going to higher voltage
and current you want to use a meter that will stand up to some abuse without
making you a part of the circuit.
You can buy 50 meters for what a good one costs but if using it on high
voltage/current you do not want to put your life on the $ 4.00 meter. The $
4 meters are fine for low voltage stuff and you can buy a few if they crap
out on you.