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![]() "James Barrett" wrote in message ... Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground. But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same external ground or go with yet another external ground? I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Thanks! Jim my own experence is that using the household ground at hf is marginal at best my own result were greatly inproved with aan extrenal seperat e ground |
#3
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Hi James,
There are several good articles at the www.eham site on this very subject. If you can read between the lines of some of the muck slinging, you can come up with several really good solutions. Just click on the "view more articles" link [at the top of the horizontal green separator] HTH. Alain "James Barrett" wrote in message ... Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground. But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same external ground or go with yet another external ground? I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Thanks! Jim |
#4
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Joaquin Tall wrote:
Hi James, There are several good articles at the www.eham site on this very subject. If you can read between the lines of some of the muck slinging, you can come up with several really good solutions. Just click on the "view more articles" link [at the top of the horizontal green separator] HTH. Alain "James Barrett" wrote in message ... Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground. But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same external ground or go with yet another external ground? I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term "ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention. Dealing with the Power ground, you'll want to tie the grounds on the back of your radios/tuners/amplifiers together. There are a number of ways to do this. Some folks construct a copper ground plane that has wires running to it from the equipment needing grounded. Another possibility is wiring to the grounding bars such as are used for electrical service. This is the method I use. Whatever method used, short wires are better working practice. I'll just go over my own setup as beyond the grounding bar, you'll get a lot of opinions on what is right. I run heavy gauge wire out to a 8 foot copper pipe embedded about 7.5 feet into the ground, and have ground clamps to attach it. Braid is good too. Some other thoughts: I install the pipe hydrostatically - I sweat a garden hose adapter onto the copper pipe, attach a hose to it, and let 'er rip (hopefully no disclaimers needed here) The water digs a hole for the pipe, which then sinks into it. It's fun some folks ground to a water pipe. Not a good idea, as modern plumbing does not always have continuity - there might be a piece of PVC in the line somewhere. I have my Arrester going to that pipe also. I'm using a "spark gap" type arrester, but I would really recommend one of the gas discharge types. They are quick to respond, and better protection in general. Hope this helps. - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
#5
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Michael Coslo wrote:
There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term "ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention. The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean by "RF ground"? The type of ground I was asking about is the ground terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground? Because I thought that the power ground was the three prong plug. Jim |
#6
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In article ,
James Barrett wrote: The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean by "RF ground"? The type of ground I was asking about is the ground terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground? Because I thought that the power ground was the three prong plug. The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the neutral and hot are bonded together). This ensures that if there's a fault inside the equipment, and a "hot" wire touches the chassis, the stray current will immediately flow back to the panel via this ground connection (and likely cause a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip very quickly). It ensures that you don't end up with a chassis which is "hot", and isolated from ground... just waiting for somebody to touch it, accidentally complete a path to ground via their body, and get themselves mildly dead. The intent of the ground terminal on the back of the radio is to let you tie the radio chassis to a good RF ground, so that if any RF reaches the chassis via conduction (e.g. coming back down the feedline) it doesn't leave you with a chassis which is RF-hot compared to grounded objects nearby (this could cause an RF burn if you touch the chassis, or sneak back into the microphone wiring and cause weird squawking sounds when you transmit). It's also necessary if you plan to use a random-wire or similar unbalanced antenna which is designed to work against the station ground (e.g. radials or counterpoises). It's normally the practice to bond *all* of the equipment in your shack together with good (short, heavy) grounding wire or braid... once again, ensuring that different pieces of equipment have their chassis at the same (or nearly the same) AC and RF potential. By doing so, you are in effect bonding together your power/safety ground, and your station RF ground, creating a single ground system. Because this in-the-station ground bonding isn't really designed to handle massive amounts of fault current (e.g. from lighting) and since it's in an area where you really don't want such fault current to flow (e.g. your shack), it's still important to bond your station's "RF ground" rod, and your house's service-panel ground rod, together as per NEC. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#7
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Dave Platt wrote:
The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the neutral and hot are bonded together). This ensures that if there's a fault inside the equipment, and a "hot" wire touches the chassis, the stray current will immediately flow back to the panel via this ground connection (and likely cause a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip very quickly). It ensures that you don't end up with a chassis which is "hot", and isolated from ground... just waiting for somebody to touch it, accidentally complete a path to ground via their body, and get themselves mildly dead. One of the reasons that Ground fault interrupters are around. If you have a hundred feet or even more of neutral wire going back to that panel, you can still get an appreciable current flowing through you without tripping a breaker. I've had my tookus saved by one of those GFCI things when a power tool failed in the manner you just described. I felt the shock for just a fraction of a second, then it tripped. the chassis, or sneak back into the microphone wiring and cause weird squawking sounds when you transmit). Ahh, that happens to me all the time even without RF on the mic! ;^) - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
#8
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#9
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James Barrett wrote:
Michael Coslo wrote: There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term "ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention. The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean by "RF ground"? It is confusing, so you're not alone. RF grounds can be related to Power grounds, but only so far. On say a ground plane antenna, where you have a vertical center rod connected to the coax center conductor, and some angled rods connected to the coax shield, those angled rods are serving as a ground plane. They aren't connected to actual earth. This is where a lot of the confusion comes in. The ground plane is more of a counterpoise, or to look at it as a circuit, a place for the other part of the current to go. Now if we look at say a vertical HF antenna of the 1/4 wave variety, typically this antenna will have "grounding" by way of many radial lengths of wire that are either buried in the earth at a shallow depth, or even just stapled to the surface of the earth. This is "Kind of-sort of" like a power ground, in that it is in the earth, but its doing something different. It is operating very similarly to that ground plane. It gives the RF current a place to go. I didn't go into things like impedence to avoid confusing the issue, but that would be next in the discussion. The type of ground I was asking about is the ground terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground? The ground terminals on your equipment are part of the power ground, that you would attach to the pipe in the yard. Explanation of that below. Any RF ground would be considered to be on the shield of the coax connectors. Because I thought that the power ground was the three prong plug. Yes, generally. One of the reasons that we put in a separate ground rod from house ground for a power ground is that there can be currents on it after going around the house. It's still mostly neutral, but with hundreds of feet of that green wire running around the house, you can still get some currents. Some people can "get away with" not having a station power ground. Kinda. I highly recommend one especially for some place to send your lightning protection. - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
#10
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The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that there be two
grounding points for a residential system. That can mean either two ground rods, six feet apart, connected to the panel with a continuous loop of wire, or a single ground rod in cases where there is municipal water, and the second ground source is the water main coming in, on the road side of the meter. The gas line also needs to be grounded to the panel. In the main service panel, the grounding system is attached to the same buss as the bare neutral coming in from the transformer. If your shack is running off a sub-panel, it should be fed with four conductor cable. In this case an insulated neutral is used and the bare (or insulated, it doesn't matter in this instance) ground is connected to a separate equipment ground buss. If your shack is in a separate structure that has its own sub panel, it needs to be fed with three conductor ground, the neutral is connected to the ground bar and a ground wire from a single ground rod is connected to the same buss (similar to the setup at the main panel). It sounds confusing as written here, and it's even more confusing to read it from the NEC, but I just had this out yesterday with my local inspector while going over the fine points on a job. All that NEC stuff is important to check to make sure you're setup is electrically safe. As for station grounding, it's not usually a good idea to use the electrical system ground rods for your RF grounds. Your rig, tuner, amps, etc, should all be grounded to a single buss with the shortest possible wires, then a large chunk of wire, #6 or better, should run as directly as possible to a separate 8' ground rod. If you have a tower, you should drive at least one 8 footer at the base and ground it there. There's no limit to the number of ground rods you can have for RF grounds, they're less than $10 from a distributor and well worth the effort. I've heard of hams setting up verticals with very minimal radials, just driving several ground rods. But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it. The answer to that is that if there is more than one they must be connected. The methods differ depending on the location of services in the structures and around the property. An electrician following the NEC would have done this during the installation and (hopefully) the inspector would have signed off on it. Ground rods for RF equipment SHOULD NOT be connected in any way to the electrical system ground rods. 73 KC2PNF Jon Dayton |
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