2)Rinse the contaminated areas with a mild bleach solution to neutralize
what may be left of the acid. Rinse and allow to dry for a day or two

Nelson:

Bleach won't neutralize acid; it's an oxidzing agent just as sulfuric acid is. What could
happen is that residual acid could react with the bleach and release chlorine gas. Not to
be recommended!

I'd suggest using baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Safe, and won't harm the
wood.

The remainder of your suggestions are right on. I saw some wonder glue the other day,
Elmers Ultimate Glue, I think it is. It is a urethane glue that foams slightly upon
exposure to air, and then sets up. A friend was using it to mend some dry-rotted areas in
the woodwork of a Model T Ford. Amazing stuff, and it ought to do this job just fine. Can
be sanded and worked once hard.

Even autobody filler would work OK under new veneer.

Lee Valley Tools has a whole lot of products for restoring damaged wood, too.

Gordon Richmond

"Gordon Richmond" wrote in message
...
2)Rinse the contaminated areas with a mild bleach solution to neutralize
what may be left of the acid. Rinse and allow to dry for a day or two

Nelson:

Bleach won't neutralize acid; it's an oxidzing agent just as sulfuric acid
is. What could
happen is that residual acid could react with the bleach and release
chlorine gas. Not to
be recommended!

I'd suggest using baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Safe, and
won't harm the
wood.

Doh! I was thinking acid vs base, and forgot about the chlorine. Good
catch!
Now that I think about it, Rona (and maybe Home Depot) carry a wood
hardener that might even eliminate the need to remove the soft wood (after
it's
neutralized.
Nelson

"Gordon Richmond" wrote in message
...
2)Rinse the contaminated areas with a mild bleach solution to neutralize
what may be left of the acid. Rinse and allow to dry for a day or two

Nelson:

Bleach won't neutralize acid; it's an oxidzing agent just as sulfuric acid
is.

Actually household bleach DOES have a highly alkaline pH (my profession is
pool pro so one thing I DO know is chlorine chemistry). BUT I still wouldn't
use it due to the toxic gas issues! My impulse would be to deeply scrape the
area and apply *short* fiber autobody filler. Be sure to *roughly* shape the
setting Bondo at just the right moment- before it is fully hard- with a
Surform or coarse sandpaper (that will clog a bit).

John H.

"Gordon Richmond" wrote in message
...
. A friend was using it to mend some dry-rotted areas in
the woodwork of a Model T Ford.

Remember though not a drop of glue can be used to hold a wooden *body*
together lest it squeak unmercifully forever though!!!

John H.