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#1
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"Randy or Sherry Guttery" wrote in message
.. . Indeed - plus bracketing - which used to be only for those shots where there truly were (usually) very poor or unusual conditions - now it's no big thing to bracket a half dozen and an equal number of composures of the same subject. Composures? Given the appropriate software, bracketed shots can be combined to produce a picture that shows detail in both the highlights and shadows, over a ludicrously wide brightness range. |
#2
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William Sommerwerck wrote:
Composures? duh, where DID that come from? Compositions would be better. best regard... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com |
#3
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William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Randy or Sherry Guttery" wrote in message .. . Indeed - plus bracketing - which used to be only for those shots where there truly were (usually) very poor or unusual conditions - now it's no big thing to bracket a half dozen and an equal number of composures of the same subject. Composures? Given the appropriate software, bracketed shots can be combined to produce a picture that shows detail in both the highlights and shadows, over a ludicrously wide brightness range. Even my admittedly poor camera has a mode where it will shoot bracketed exposures, three of them for each shutter press, at a selected bracket of +/- .5, 1.0 or 1.5....automatically. I've seen some instruction on how to combine the shots in layers to bring out detail in shadowed areas, without washing out the same in brighter areas. The effect is almost surreal...like a video game scene. My thought, although I haven't yet tried it yet, is that much could be done by saving the same exposure several times with various settings of gamma and/or brightness, then layering back the copies to the original. The only software I have to do that is Corel Photopaint, although I just downloaded a copy of GIMP...freeware, but highly recommended. jak jak |
#4
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jakdedert wrote:
Even my admittedly poor camera has a mode where it will shoot bracketed exposures, three of them for each shutter press, at a selected bracket of +/- .5, 1.0 or 1.5....automatically. That's the "usual" as trying to get many more without you (or the scene) moving gets problematical. I've seen some instruction on how to combine the shots in layers to bring out detail in shadowed areas, without washing out the same in brighter areas. Photoshop has provisions to not only work in areas - but to handle shadow, midtone and highlight areas separately; lightening / darkening / increasing and decreasing saturation - and you can select to apply either to the entire image or specific areas. Add that to the ability to handle layers each with such capability - and you can do some pretty neat stuff. Fortunately - Minolta (and the successor Sony) has a multizone exposure system that usually does a pretty good job of "getting the details". Of course like all such "stuff" you can tell it to mind it's own business and either use simple or totally manual controls as you wish. Sometimes in very low light - it's better to shut the autofocus off and do it by hand - so you get the exact subject in focus - rather than the camera guessing at what is supposed to be in focus. In good light - it's not a problem - as the lens is (usually) stopped down enough to get everything "good enough" - but when the lens is wide open - it's time to give the automatics "the boot". The effect is almost surreal...like a video game scene. Yeah - that's something I have to watch - sometimes when "tweaking" - I can get a bit overboard - and need to quit "pushing" things before they become "unreal"... My thought, although I haven't yet tried it yet, is that much could be done by saving the same exposure several times with various settings of gamma and/or brightness, then layering back the copies to the original. You could - but sometimes it's better to do a transformation of the original by the values (usually of some specific area) of the brackets (or tweaked copies). Photoshop let's you have best of both worlds - as you can apply a layers as a transitional mask (add, subtract - or even multiply or divide depending on effect desired). Then if you screw it up - you delete the layer - and the original is untouched. The only software I have to do that is Corel Photopaint, although I just downloaded a copy of GIMP...freeware, but highly recommended. Fortunately - since much of my work requires Photoshop and several of it's siblings - I "get" to use Created Suite which has all the "toys". I use mostly Photoshop and GoLive (web work) though I find myself using Illustrator more and more lately as I work in more technical "stuff". I also have the "non-suite" package Adobe Audition - which used to be "Cool Edit" for working with audio like Photoshop does graphics. best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com |
#5
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"Randy or Sherry Guttery" wrote in message
... Photoshop has provisions to not only work in areas - but to handle shadow, midtone and highlight areas separately; lightening / darkening / increasing and decreasing saturation - and you can select to apply either to the entire image or specific areas. Add that to the ability to handle layers each with such capability - and you can do some pretty neat stuff. Note that, for this to work optimally, the camera needs to be on a tripod, with the focus and aperture the same for all shots. |
#6
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William Sommerwerck wrote:
Note that, for this to work optimally, the camera needs to be on a tripod, with the focus and aperture the same for all shots. Optimally, perhaps, but as fast as some cameras are - they can rip off three shots fast enough to not matter. The new Sony SLR based on Minolta technology can rip off shots at 5 FPS at it's full 12+Megapixel resolution -- that three shots (bracketed) in .6 seconds... And with the camera's "anti-shake" systems - the field won't move (the subject might - but a tripod won't help in that case either). best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com |
#7
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"Randy or Sherry Guttery" wrote in message
. .. William Sommerwerck wrote: Note that, for this to work optimally, the camera needs to be on a tripod, with the focus and aperture the same for all shots. Optimally, perhaps, but as fast as some cameras are - they can rip off three shots fast enough to not matter. The new Sony SLR based on Minolta technology can rip off shots at 5 FPS at it's full 12+ Mp resolution -- that three shots (bracketed) in .6 seconds... And with the camera's "anti-shake" systems - the field won't move (the subject might - but a tripod won't help in that case either). Correct. But you still want the aperture to be the same. If you're bracketing +/- two stops (which would be normal for capturing a wide brightness range) and the camera is set for Program, the aperture might change. |
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