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-   -   CHEAP SONY 2010 REPAIR (https://www.radiobanter.com/shortwave/41452-cheap-sony-2010-repair.html)

Brian Hill March 21st 04 07:49 PM


Mr. Tonn! if your going to moderate, please do it in moderation!

P.S. That's a great price for the service. Keep up the good work Smokey.

Brian
--
Never under estimate the stimulation of eccentricity.

Brian's Radio Universe
http://webpages.charter.net/brianehill/




Frank Dresser March 21st 04 09:17 PM


"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


Ouch. Your commercial post to newsgroups is NOT WELCOME.
You will be reported for newsgroup abuse to your ISP.

This "repair" is done within 10 minutes by replacing a FET of less than
1.50US$.

Replacing the FET is a really easy job. At least it is highly
recommended to add 2 pairs of diodes to prevent further death of the FET
on static crashes. The needed diodes are less than 0.10US$ each and it
takes less than 2 minutes when the case is open.

So 25 US$ for a 15 minute unqualified job including less than US$ 2 on
material is not a good price.

[snip]

Hey, Volker! How much would you charge for doing the job?

Frank Dresser



Volker Tonn March 22nd 04 06:06 PM



Frank Dresser schrieb:


Hey, Volker! How much would you charge for doing the job?


I'm a professional pipe-installer/ plumber. The company I work for
charges about EUR 35,- for 1 hour real hard work....
Beeing realistic a repair would cost 17 US$ (parts included) it would
give you an hourly income of US$ 40 or more easily, handling the
shipping (UPS pick up service or similar) included. Costs of shipping
are seperately.
I don't do radio repair by profession and I will not charge for helping
a friend other than the parts cost.
So come to me with your 2010 in one hand and a six-pack of coke-classic
in the other hand. Lets have a nice talk and let's drink a coke while I
change the blown FET and add some diodes...
I live in Berlin/ Germany. A little search will bring up my cell-phone
number to you...

Volker


Rob Mills March 22nd 04 06:54 PM


"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...

I'm a professional pipe-installer/ plumber.


Do you promise that you won't use the same soldering that you use for
plumbing. : )

Cheer's, RM~



Volker Tonn March 22nd 04 07:12 PM



Rob Mills schrieb:


Do you promise that you won't use the same soldering that you use for
plumbing. : )


Not the same soldering as for plumbing? What else?
Just curious ;-)

Volker


Frank Dresser March 22nd 04 08:25 PM


"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


Rob Mills schrieb:


Do you promise that you won't use the same soldering that you use for
plumbing. : )


Not the same soldering as for plumbing? What else?
Just curious ;-)

Volker


Here, in the US, copper pipe is soldered together. The plumbing solder used
to be something like 50-50 tin/lead with an acid flux core. Kit
manufacturers, such as Heathkit, would warn the kit builders not to use any
acid core solder. They clearly explained that the acid flux would leave a
corrosive residue which would damage the electronics. The guarantee was
void on any kit assembled with acid flux solder. The warnings were so
prominent that I'm sure kit builders will remember them long after they have
forgotten the resistor color code.

Lead based plumbing solder is now banned in the US. The new plumbing solder
has bismuth or something in it. The acid flux core is still there.

Frank Dresser



Frank Dresser March 22nd 04 08:26 PM


"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


I'm a professional pipe-installer/ plumber. The company I work for
charges about EUR 35,- for 1 hour real hard work....
Beeing realistic a repair would cost 17 US$ (parts included) it would
give you an hourly income of US$ 40 or more easily, handling the
shipping (UPS pick up service or similar) included. Costs of shipping
are seperately.
I don't do radio repair by profession and I will not charge for helping
a friend other than the parts cost.
So come to me with your 2010 in one hand and a six-pack of coke-classic
in the other hand. Lets have a nice talk and let's drink a coke while I
change the blown FET and add some diodes...
I live in Berlin/ Germany. A little search will bring up my cell-phone
number to you...

Volker


That sounds like a very good deal, but I don't have a 2010 nor do I think
I'll be in Germany anytime soon. Anyway, I do all my own radio repairs.
I'll fix up a radio for someone I know, but I don't want to deal with the
general public. Some people are just plain nuts!! And considering the time
a repair person might waste making some nut happy, I sure can understand why
a repair person would charge more than a minimal rate in order to avoid
taking a loss on the whole business.

Mmmmm. That Coke offer sounds tempting, though.

Frank Dresser



Volker Tonn March 22nd 04 09:37 PM



Frank Dresser schrieb:

"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


Rob Mills schrieb:


Do you promise that you won't use the same soldering that you use for
plumbing. : )


Not the same soldering as for plumbing? What else?
Just curious ;-)

Volker


...
Here, in the US, copper pipe is soldered together. The plumbing solder used
to be something like 50-50 tin/lead with an acid flux core....


Hi Frank.
You didn't see my smilie? Hmmm?
In germany soldering for copper is somewhat 70/30 tin/lead -much more
tighter than 50/50. 50/50 is only used for repairs on old lead-pipes
wich are no longer used for new pipes since decades here and it has the
flux core in it and looks like VERY thick electronics solder. It's very
tricky to solder this over head. I learned to handele this more than 20
years ago... :-)
On copper we use acid flux with very fine solder gravel in it wich is
brought to the copper skin with a brush before putting the copper things
together. You will have the copper tinplated when heated only without
adding any additional solder.
For electronics I prefer thin electronics solder with 0.5mm (0.02") in
diameter with my temperatur regulated soldering station. Also have 1.0mm
in use for bigger parts like cable connectors or repairs on car-electrics.

Volker


Frank Dresser March 24th 04 12:29 AM


"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...


Frank Dresser schrieb:


Hi Frank.
You didn't see my smilie? Hmmm?


Of course not! :-)

In germany soldering for copper is somewhat 70/30 tin/lead -much more
tighter than 50/50. 50/50 is only used for repairs on old lead-pipes
wich are no longer used for new pipes since decades here and it has the
flux core in it and looks like VERY thick electronics solder. It's very
tricky to solder this over head. I learned to handele this more than 20
years ago... :-)


Lead pipe hasn't been used in the US for decades, either. Except in
Chicago, where it was required by code for the hook up from the underground
water main to the house. Chicago dropped the lead pipe requirement less
than 20 years ago.

I'm a bit surprised that lead alloy solder is still used in Germany for
drinking water pipes. I thought the Europeans had been more agressive in
their concerns about lead. As far as I know, lead base paints had been
banned first in Europe, and there is more concern about disposing electronic
items with lead alloy solder there.

The bismuth alloy plumbing solder I've used was solid core.

The 50/50 solder you describe sounds exactly like the kind of acid flux core
solder we kitbuilders were warned not to use.

On copper we use acid flux with very fine solder gravel in it wich is
brought to the copper skin with a brush before putting the copper things
together. You will have the copper tinplated when heated only without
adding any additional solder.



Yes, that sort of flux is commonly available here. It works well. And
copper pipes are always cleaned, then fluxed with external flux before
soldering. Solid core solder is prefered for plumbing because it doesn't
feed in so quickly, but acid core solder produces just as good a joint.
Acid core solder is better for general purpose work, such as soldering sheet
metal with a torch. If a handyman has only one roll of solder, it's
probably acid core.



For electronics I prefer thin electronics solder with 0.5mm (0.02") in
diameter with my temperatur regulated soldering station. Also have 1.0mm
in use for bigger parts like cable connectors or repairs on car-electrics.

Volker


For rosin core, I just buy the thin stuff. I don't like having extra spools
of solder around. Good thing I read the warning about acid core solder!

Frank Dresser




Volker Tonn March 24th 04 06:02 PM



Frank Dresser schrieb:

"Volker Tonn" wrote in message
...

Hi Frank.
You didn't see my smilie? Hmmm?



Of course not! :-)


Hi Frank.
We are going way too off topic....
When you come to Berlin one day we may have an extended talk in my
living room. You're invited for a coke at least.
I have to push my vocabulary used by handcraftsmen... ;-)
You may bookmark the reply adress of this(!) posting for private mail.

regards,
Volker



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