(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than
your radio, always!
http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp

This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved
reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and
clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I
would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM.

(Gary) wrote in message . com...
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than
your radio, always!
http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp

This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved
reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and
clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I
would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM.
.................................................. .........................
These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is
broadband.
It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as
ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are
amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static
prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked.
There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a

1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it
is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster,
and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna
base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make
sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will
mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or
steel wool until it is shiny. Be careful not to let the free end of
the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a
whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the
end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection.

2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even
run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal. The modern cars
have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good
spot.

3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet
metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well
grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is
usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the
hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable
works well for this.

These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I
have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters
around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many
distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio
Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but
these three fixes were usually all I needed to do.

I ain't putting any sheet metal screws in my car frame, thank-you.

On 17 Apr 2004 15:50:46 -0700, (ken) wrote:

(Gary) wrote in message . com...
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than
your radio, always!
http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp

This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved
reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and
clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I
would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM.
................................................. .........................
These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is
broadband.
It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as
ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are
amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static
prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked.
There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a

1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it
is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster,
and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna
base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make
sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will
mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or
steel wool until it is shiny. Be careful not to let the free end of
the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a
whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the
end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection.

2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even
run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal. The modern cars
have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good
spot.

3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet
metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well
grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is
usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the
hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable
works well for this.

These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I
have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters
around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many
distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio
Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but
these three fixes were usually all I needed to do.

(ken) wrote in message om...
(Gary) wrote in message . com...
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than
your radio, always!
http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp

This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved
reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and
clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I
would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM.
.................................................. ........................
These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is
broadband.

There is NO transistor or RF amplifier on that antenna. It is merely
a coil of wire that, in effect, gives the antenna a longer length. I
never had a problem with mine picking up more noise, and it was on a
1958 Ford.

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 17:50:46 -0500, ken wrote
(in message ):

(Gary) wrote in message
. com...
(RHF) wrote in message C. Crane Co. - AM/FM
Auto Antenna - Purpose: Improve AM reception
on your automobile. Remember: An antenna is more important than
your radio, always!
http://www.ccrane.com/am_fm_auto_antenna.asp

This is very similar to what I used many years ago and it improved
reception so much that I could listen to distant AM stations loud and
clear that I could barely hear at all with the regular rod antenna. I
would highly recommend this to anyone wanting a strong signal on AM.
.................................................. ........................
These antenna boosters use a transistor RF amplifier that is
broadband.
It will amplify everything it receives; AM radio signals as well as
ignition noise. You may find that although weak-signal AM stations are
amplified, computer hash, alternator whine, and ignition static
prevent the booster from being useful, except when the car is parked.
There are many fixes for this: the three most effective a

1. Make sure that the car antenna is well-grounded at both ends. If it
is not, it will pick up electrical noise, amplify it in the booster,
and send it to the radio input. Not a pretty sound. Where the antenna
base is secured to the car,(front fender, roof, back deck, etc) make
sure there is no rust or paint interfering with the ground. This will
mean unscrewing the base and cleaning the metal with emery cloth or
steel wool until it is shiny.

If you know any women [grin], ask one to save you her old emeryboards
(fingernails thingie). They're very convenient because one can use it in
tight areas. [Also, there is another thingie called an "orange stick" that is
very handy for holding something you'e soldering if you want to avoid using
something that is actually a heatsink.


Be careful not to let the free end of
the lead-in drop into a fender well or other cavity as it can take a
whole afternoon to get the thing out. Also inspect the fitting at the
end of the cable as salt can get in there and make a noisy connection.

2. Ground the radio chassis to a good ground on the firewall or even
run a ground wire to the negative battery terminal.

Please! Connect to the ground terminal. Different cars have positive and
negative grounds.



The modern cars
have so much plastic in them that you may have to hunt for a good
spot.

3. Run a braided wire from the hood to a spot on the frame using sheet
metal screws (stainless is best). The hood may not be very well
grounded and it will radiate ignition noise to the antenna, which is
usually a few inches away. The braid must be long enough to permit the
hood to open and close: the braid from a scrap piece of coaxial cable
works well for this.

These fixes will also help reduce auto noise in any car radio. I
have lived in poor reception areas and started using antenna boosters
around 1960. With my old 57 Chev, in Calgary, I could listen to many
distant stations, the best being Bismark, North Dakota. The Radio
Amateurs have much information on how to reduce electrical noise, but
these three fixes were usually all I needed to do.

Yup. Your advice is excellent/ gray//