If you look on my web page, you see the same diode protection circuit below
the neon bulb one. Same diode recommendations. The attenuator in the wd8das
circuit is the same also. They are just shown, in this case, separately. The
pot he (wd8was) has on his schematic is specified as 1 to 10K. Anything in
this range will work. The higher value will give you finer control. The 10K
pot in series with a 1K resistor will not work well. It will just limit your
attenuation range one way or the other, depending on what side you put it
on. If you were to put them in parallel, you would simply be reducing a 10K
pot to a 909 ohm pot. The neon bulb circuit does have advantages. The
bleeder resistor constantly bleeds static keeping at a low level as opposed
to the diodes that have to reach a certain level before they conduct. The
neon bulb fires more often than you might imagine. Build it with the bulb
exposed and watch. You could, of course, do a variation. Build the wd8was
circuit and put a bleeder resistor before it. None of this stuff is new. You
can see that there are variations. You are not stuck with one design.
Whatever you do though, make sure it is of sound design.
CW
KC7NOD
"Dennis" wrote in message
oups.com...
To answer my own question, the diodes are 1N914 or 1N4148. I emailed
the author of the article and he was kind enough to write back and give
me a detailed explanation. I believe he's using a 2K pot. I'll
probably put a 10k pot in series with a 1k resistor and take it from
there. I appreciate your advice. Now I have a pretty clear picture on
how my "Gizmoe Box" will work.

GO PATRIOTS!


Dennis wrote:

Thanks again to everyone. I feel like my protector box is honing in
nicely and should have it put together in another day or two. If
someone can tell me what the component values are in the WD8DAS
schematic, I would really appreciate it.